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I don't get computers. How can my 6 year old 3570K (before overclocking even!) be better than a 4 month old Ryzen AMD 3.9GHz CPU? How is that same 6 year old 3570K going for $300 after six years and the newest AMD is less than half that cost? uncle w benefits fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 7, 2018 |
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Oct 7, 2018 18:22
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uncle w benefits posted:I don't get computers. How can my 6 year old 3570K (before overclocking even!) be better than a 4 month old Ryzen AMD 3.9GHz CPU? I’m not sure why you think your 3570k is better than a 2700x, especially at stock.
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Oct 7, 2018 18:37
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azzenco posted:Any recommended video card brand or will the "most popular" option when sorting by cards be enough for me? EVGA. Not only will you have the ability to Step Up to a 20-series card within the first three months of ownership (who knows you might decide to make it a Christmas gift to yourself), you can also extend the three year warranty to five or *ten* for a ~$30-40 bucks. Just search "EVGA Extended Warranty" on Google. Ten years on a GPU that's already two years old might sound excessive, but bear in mind that EVGA has a history of giving people "RMA upgrades" over time when age has rendered a card harder to replace. They've also got the best NA support network.
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Oct 7, 2018 18:47
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B-Mac posted:I’m not sure why you think your 3570k is better than a 2700x, especially at stock. I think he's been looking at CPUBenchmark.net's single threaded benchmarks, where the Ryzen 7 2700 (non-X) gets a score of 2013, to the i5-3570K's 2028. The 2700X gets 2190, and the i7-8700K gets 2704. I'm really not sure how much that benchmark says about anything really, though. At stock settings the i5-3570K's max boost clock is 3.8GHz to the 2700's 4.1GHz, and I really don't think the 2700 should have that much worse performance per clock cycle than the i5-3570, so I dunno what might be going on. I wouldn't read all that much into it. e: the Ryzen 5 2600 with a max boost of 3.9GHz is probably what he's referring to, it gets a score of 2009. Which is oddly close to the 2700, actually. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Oct 7, 2018 |
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Oct 7, 2018 18:54
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TheFluff posted:I think he's been looking at CPUBenchmark.net's single threaded benchmarks, where the Ryzen 7 2700 (non-X) gets a score of 2013, to the i5-3570K's 2028. The 2700X gets 2190, and the i7-8700K gets 2704. I'm really not sure how much that benchmark says about anything really, though. At stock settings the i5-3570K's max boost clock is 3.8GHz to the 2700's 4.1GHz, and I really don't think the 2700 should have that much worse performance per clock cycle than the i5-3570, so I dunno what might be going on. I wouldn't read all that much into it. This is correct. I really know nothing of either CPUs or benchmarks, but I tend to associate larger numbers with better. Does 'max boost' refer to what it can be overclocked too?
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Oct 7, 2018 20:25
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No, that's what the chip will automatically boost itself to with you not having changed anything. It's essentially the turbo button old rear end computers used to have except you don't have to press it and it actually does something.
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Oct 7, 2018 20:48
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I thought the turbo button actually used to be there for downclocking your CPU for software compatibility when things used to be tied to CPU cycles and not milliseconds.
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Oct 7, 2018 21:05
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Modern CPU's clock up and down individual cores all the time depending on how much work there is to do, in order to save power. When you're doing basic desktop stuff like reading email or shitposting on the forums your "3.4GHz" 3570K is probably running all cores at 1.6GHz (IIRC, I think that's what the lowest clock speed was on mine). Modern CPU's will clock even lower at idle - the 8th generation Intel ones idle at 800MHz. You can use a program like HWInfo64 to see exactly what each core is doing in more or less realtime, if you're curious. When you start putting load on the CPU though, at stock settings the CPU will automatically clock itself "up to" the max boost clock, as long as the stock temperature and power budgets allow for it. At least for Intel CPU's, the max boost clock is only available on one core at a time and the more cores are under load the lower the boost clock gets. If all the cores are under load you might either get only the base clock or like a 100-200MHz boost over the base clock. If you run a single threaded benchmark with nothing else of note using resources in the background, the CPU should definitely be able to run the one core that's under load at the max boost clock, which for an i5-3570K is 3.8GHz. Most Intel motherboards will have a BIOS option called "multi-core enhancement" or something along those lines (different motherboard manufacturers probably have different names for it). What that does (if you enable it) is let the CPU use the max boost clock on all cores at the same time. It'll use more power and require more cooling, but as long as you have something better than the stock cooler you should be perfectly fine. All of this being said, synthetic benchmarks like that one should be taken with a good deal of salt. CPU's are extremely complex machines and even though all the modern ones are compatible with each other, they are very different under the hood and their performance running a given program can be very different. There's really no single synthetic benchmark that can replace comparing actual performance in the real software you are interested in using. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Oct 7, 2018 |
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Oct 7, 2018 21:18
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Newbie at building pcs. Can anyone check if this a good set up? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dkDgq4 I know the motherboard already has a built in wifi. Is the PSU good enough? Also is 16gb ram good these days? I have 32gb in one of my laptops but I don't really game on it because the cooling is awful but I will play on this desktop. I also know many people recommend higher end i5 over i7 but money isn't really an issue so I am fine with paying more for i7. 1080TI, I have a 1080 on my laptop but like I said that poo poo has horrible thermals so it starts burning up if you play any new games for too long. Other than RTX is too expensive right now. Also is there any advantage of going AMD ryzen over i7? Thanks a lot.
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Oct 7, 2018 23:32
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Newbie at building pcs. Can anyone check if this a good set up? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dkDgq4 I know the motherboard already has a built in wifi. [/quote] What's your monitor resolution/refresh rate? What sort of games are you playing, and what graphics settings/fps would you like to be playing them at. Will you be using the computer for purposes other than gaming? Ulio posted:Is the PSU good enough? Also is 16gb ram good these days? I have 32gb in one of my laptops but I don't really game on it because the cooling is awful but I will play on this desktop. The PSU is more than sufficient for that build. 16GB of Ram is sufficient, but large games with texture streaming can benefit from more, especially at 4K. Ulio posted:I also know many people recommend higher end i5 over i7 but money isn't really an issue so I am fine with paying more for i7. Some general recommendations that might answer some of these questions. CPU: The 8700K is currently the best gaming CPU on the market, but the 9900K is expected to be better and is literally launching tomorrow. It will probably cost ~$100 more, but it will very likely be the best gaming CPU for years to come as Intel works on improving their 10nm chips. It has 2 more cores / 4 more threads than the 8700K and a soldered thermal interface that should help with it's greater heat generation. If money isn't an issue and you're willing to wait a bit, I'd consider a 9900K. Motherboard: The STRIX is decent, but the ASRock Extreme4 is a better overclocking board for cheaper. Unless there are features of the STRIX that are lacking from Extreme4, I'd go with the latter. If want to jump to upper tier boards, the ASRock Taichi is excellent and not much more than the STRIX. Current Z370 boards will be compatible with the 9900K, but will likely require a bios update (which requires an 8th generation CPU to perform). Buying a cheap Celeron from Walmart/Best Buy and returning it after the bios update would do the trick. Alternatively, Z390 boards should be coming out soon, though they're expected to be more expensive. RAM: Especially if you decide to buy a 9900K, I would consider spending a bit extra for faster RAM. If you're overclocking, at minimum I'd get a 3200/16 kit over 3000 anyway, but for an extra $70-100, you could get a solid 3600/4000 kit of Samsung b-die. Check the QVL list for the motherboard you choose for recommended RAM and higher speeds. Storage: You don't have an SSD listed. Get an SSD! Preferably an NVMe drive like the Samsung 970 EVO, WD Black, or HP EX920. Video Card: A 1080 Ti is totally fine for pretty much everything you can throw at, barring 4K/ultra/solid 60 in the most modern games. If you don't have one yet, if you buy an EVGA card you're eligible for their Step-Up program, which lets you exchange your card for a 20X0 card within 90 days for only the price difference. If the price is close to the price of a 2080, though, just go with the 2080. It's roughly the same performance now, and has better performance it certain newer games (and will likely have better performance in the future). Plus rays. OS: You can save a little money by buying a Windows 7 key and using it to activate Windows 10. Goon BrownThunder sells Win7 Pro keys for $25 in SAMart. You really don't need a wireless or lan pcie card. Most motherboards will have decent built in wireless and TWO(!!) gigabit lan ports. Ulio posted:Also is there any advantage of going AMD ryzen over i7? Not for gaming. The 8700K (and definitely the 9900K) trounce Ryzen chips for nearly all gaming applications. If future games make better use of multicore features, the gap might close a bit, but it's unlikely to do so any time soon. Ryzen are a bit better choice vs. i5 chips, and perform better than the i7 in some productivity applications. Stickman fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 01:12
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Anybody knows if the 2 slot EVGA RTX 2080 XC GAMING outperforms the Founder’s Edition thermally?
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Oct 8, 2018 02:15
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Stickman posted:What's your monitor resolution/refresh rate? What sort of games are you playing, and what graphics settings/fps would you like to be playing them at. Will you be using the computer for purposes other than gaming? I am going to be running a multiple monitor set up for work related reasons but I will also game on it. Since I am buying more than 1 monitor, I am thinking 1 4k and others will just be for whenever I work. I don't want to spend too much on monitors. Also I do play new games but I play a lot of online games which don't really require high setting either. What do you recommend? Also my refresh rate is currently 60. Is higher really noticeable? I changed it to 32gb actually. quote:CPU: The 8700K is currently the best gaming CPU on the market, but the 9900K is expected to be better and is literally launching tomorrow. It will probably cost ~$100 more, but it will very likely be the best gaming CPU for years to come as Intel works on improving their 10nm chips. It has 2 more cores / 4 more threads than the 8700K and a soldered thermal interface that should help with it's greater heat generation. If money isn't an issue and you're willing to wait a bit, I'd consider a 9900K. Alright I will wait to see reviews and stuff, if the price isn't to high I will go for this. quote:Motherboard: The STRIX is decent, but the ASRock Extreme4 is a better overclocking board for cheaper. Unless there are features of the STRIX that are lacking from Extreme4, I'd go with the latter. If want to jump to upper tier boards, the ASRock Taichi is excellent and not much more than the STRIX. Is any Celeron fine to update the motherboard?I quote:Storage: You don't have an SSD listed. Get an SSD! Preferably an NVMe drive like the Samsung 970 EVO, WD Black, or HP EX920. I do have this Samsung - 860 Evo 1TB 2.5" SSD. quote:Video Card: A 1080 Ti is totally fine for pretty much everything you can throw at, barring 4K/ultra/solid 60 in the most modern games. If you don't have one yet, if you buy an EVGA card you're eligible for their Step-Up program, which lets you exchange your card for a 20X0 card within 90 days for only the price difference. If the price is close to the price of a 2080, though, just go with the 2080. It's roughly the same performance now, and has better performance it certain newer games (and will likely have better performance in the future). Plus rays. Ok I changed it to the EVGA. quote:OS: You can save a little money by buying a Windows 7 key and using it to activate Windows 10. Goon BrownThunder sells Win7 Pro keys for $25 in SAMart. Alright thanks for the heads up.
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Oct 8, 2018 02:21
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Ulio posted:Is any Celeron fine to update the motherboard?I It has to be a Coffee Lake Celeron, so a G4900, G4920, or G4900T (all roughly the same price, ~$50) Ulio posted:I am going to be running a multiple monitor set up for work related reasons but I will also game on it. Since I am buying more than 1 monitor, I am thinking 1 4k and others will just be for whenever I work. I don't want to spend too much on monitors. Also I do play new games but I play a lot of online games which don't really require high setting either. What do you recommend? Also my refresh rate is currently 60. Is higher really noticeable? If you're used to gaming at 60Hz, the system you're putting together would probably be fine gaming on your 4K monitor. Higher refresh is nice - I've recently purchased a 1440p/144Hz monitor and the difference is noticeable (to me at least), and a 9900K/1080 Ti would be more than sufficient for high-refresh 1440p. Most older games will run at a solid 144 fps, and newer games ~80-110 fps. High refresh 4k monitors are currently ridiculously expensive. If you think you might be interested in a nice gaming monitor, check out the monitor thread. Stickman fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 02:38
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I concur with stickman. You are at the point of diminishing returns. Splurging on more expensive things would be an nvme SSD, or an RTX 2080. http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2080-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1080-Ti/4026vs3918 (i think the 2080 performs better for the most part, overclocking hasn't been heavily explored yet, plus the raytracing and DLSS are both things that are nice) If you go with 32GB RAM, make sure to check the QVL list for the motherboard you buy and ensure you don't end up running your memory at a low speed for worse gaming performance.
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Oct 8, 2018 03:40
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My wife has an all-in-one Lenovo from several years ago (Ideacentre B520 I think) whose hard drive is probably kaput, but whose display is still pretty good (or at least good enough for her tastes). I'm leaning towards setting her up with an NUC for her next computer and I'm wondering if it's possible to use the old all-in-one as a monitor to lessen the monetary blow of having to buy a new computer. The AIO has an HDMI In port on the back which tells me that it's at least capable of receiving an HDMI signal, but I'm guessing that I would have to strip out the hard drive (and maybe some other hardware?) so that it doesn't try to boot up the whole computer when I turn it on for use as a display. Has anyone ITT ever done something like this before?
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Oct 8, 2018 04:42
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No, dog. Sell that thing "as-is" on ebay and buy a 1080p or better chromebook. Get a secondary monitor. Chromebook: $254.98 http://a.co/d/8woiGqZ 27" 1080p Monitor: $123.99 http://a.co/d/6eAfxtQ Not Having to do any support whatsoever: Priceless edit: To be clear, using that machine as a monitor will not be easy and not be worth it. oh poo poo, a refurb for $215! http://a.co/d/aCh8etn LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 06:03
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Is there a smaller case that would hold an ATX power supply, 1 optical drive, and a 2.75-card width RTX 2080? I was going to buy a Fractal Design R6 for my new Z390 build but am realizing with an M.2 drive, 1 optical, and a video card as my only real peripherals it's really a lot of room that's going to be wasted. I have a NAS now so don't see myself going hog wild with the drive bays. Even if I got a supplemental SSD there's plenty of places to tuck it in today's cases. I just don't know what else is out there other than skimming around on NewEgg so would appreciate any suggestions.
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Oct 8, 2018 11:14
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Hed posted:Is there a smaller case that would hold an ATX power supply, 1 optical drive, and a 2.75-card width RTX 2080? https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Crystal-Series-280X-RGB/p/CC-9011137-WW I just wish they made an ATX version of this case - I'd upgrade from my Air 540.
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Oct 8, 2018 11:18
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Can't believe I had to go out of my way to get a 8700K, RTX 2080 "enthusiast" build without RGB puke.
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Oct 8, 2018 12:51
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Stickman posted:CPU: The 8700K is currently the best gaming CPU on the market, but the 9900K is expected to be better and is literally launching tomorrow. Is this confirmed somewhere?
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Oct 8, 2018 13:49
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Preorders actually open today. BH has 9900K preorders up for $530. Went live at midnight so there may be a lot of orders ahead of you, but at least you're in line. Amazon had them up earlier for $500, then they pulled them, maybe too early (Intel is doing a stream to launch them right now) or maybe they're gone (anyone who's not overselling their quota is probably going to go out of stock in less than 5 minutes). Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 14:31
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Isn't it unfair to compare a previous i7 to the current i9? I mean of course the new generation is expected to be faster but it's even more obvious that the higher end chip would be as well.
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Oct 8, 2018 14:38
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C-Euro posted:My wife has an all-in-one Lenovo from several years ago (Ideacentre B520 I think) whose hard drive is probably kaput, but whose display is still pretty good (or at least good enough for her tastes). I'm leaning towards setting her up with an NUC for her next computer and I'm wondering if it's possible to use the old all-in-one as a monitor to lessen the monetary blow of having to buy a new computer. The AIO has an HDMI In port on the back which tells me that it's at least capable of receiving an HDMI signal, but I'm guessing that I would have to strip out the hard drive (and maybe some other hardware?) so that it doesn't try to boot up the whole computer when I turn it on for use as a display. Has anyone ITT ever done something like this before? Cant concur with the subsequent chromebook recommendation. If it has HDMI in you shouldn't have to rip anything out to switch inputs and use it an an external display. How sure are you that its the drive? If it is, depending on how much of a gently caress around it is to get apart I mean a drive replacement ain't nothin.
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Oct 8, 2018 14:57
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KingKapalone posted:Isn't it unfair to compare a previous i7 to the current i9? I mean of course the new generation is expected to be faster but it's even more obvious that the higher end chip would be as well. Moreover, the i9 is $150 more expensive, too. But, the i7 should be the same price, and I think people are going to find that 2 extra real cores beats 6 hyperthreads in ~all cases. Hyperthreads are only 30% in the best case, and often much less especially in gaming/etc, so 30% more real cores should be faster. Not to mention the 9700K is soldered. Apart from dealing with the hassle of flashing your board (you'll need a clip-on SPI flasher kit, or to abuse ebay/amazon returns), I'd strongly recommend getting a 9700K instead of a 8700K, personally. C-Euro posted:My wife has an all-in-one Lenovo from several years ago (Ideacentre B520 I think) whose hard drive is probably kaput, but whose display is still pretty good (or at least good enough for her tastes). I'm leaning towards setting her up with an NUC for her next computer and I'm wondering if it's possible to use the old all-in-one as a monitor to lessen the monetary blow of having to buy a new computer. The AIO has an HDMI In port on the back which tells me that it's at least capable of receiving an HDMI signal, but I'm guessing that I would have to strip out the hard drive (and maybe some other hardware?) so that it doesn't try to boot up the whole computer when I turn it on for use as a display. Has anyone ITT ever done something like this before? Are you sure that's really a HDMI in, or is it an HDMI out meant for dual-screening? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 15:08
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Is there a noticeable difference in performance between the i5-3470 and 4590, particularly in games? I need something to temporarily replace my current setup until 9th gen is freely available here or maybe the 10nm stuff is out if it turns out to be too expensive/lame. I can get the former setup locally but the newer one is on ebay and would be at least $60 more expensive, but come with 28 gigs of memory instead of 8. E: obviously I already checked some benchmarks and they seem to be without 10% in passmark and what not, but nobody usually compares these directly in games E2: There wasn't a word about any of these earlier today when I looked but now the 9700k is up for preorder for just $640 (inc. VAT but still)  Looks like it's time to take a trip to the US again and smuggle a CPU in my butt. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Oct 8, 2018 |
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Oct 8, 2018 15:19
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Dietrich posted:Is this confirmed somewhere? Very much so, but this is a preorder for delivery in two weeks launch - not a hard launch.
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Oct 8, 2018 16:03
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C-Euro posted:My wife has an all-in-one Lenovo from several years ago (Ideacentre B520 I think) whose hard drive is probably kaput, but whose display is still pretty good (or at least good enough for her tastes). I'm leaning towards setting her up with an NUC for her next computer and I'm wondering if it's possible to use the old all-in-one as a monitor to lessen the monetary blow of having to buy a new computer. The AIO has an HDMI In port on the back which tells me that it's at least capable of receiving an HDMI signal, but I'm guessing that I would have to strip out the hard drive (and maybe some other hardware?) so that it doesn't try to boot up the whole computer when I turn it on for use as a display. Has anyone ITT ever done something like this before? If she's otherwise happy with the computer, why replace it at all? Just swap out the busted HDD for a new SSD. You can get a 500GB MX500 for less than $100. Combine that with a clean Windows install and it'll feel like a brand new computer at a fraction of the cost.
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Oct 8, 2018 16:11
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Best Buy also has the 9900K SKUed up with a release date of 10/19 for $529: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/intel-core-i9-9900k-octa-core-3-6-ghz-desktop-processor/6302019.p?skuId=6302019
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Oct 8, 2018 16:13
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Looking at doing a complete new build as I've had my old computer for 5 years now. Reading the last few pages here, I'm guessing I should wait a couple more months because new processors are coming out?
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Oct 8, 2018 16:27
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HexDog posted:Looking at doing a complete new build as I've had my old computer for 5 years now. Reading the last few pages here, I'm guessing I should wait a couple more months because new processors are coming out? Actually, the 9th gen hits shelves on the 19th. But Intel's already hinted that their availability is going to be poo poo, so you probably stand the best chance stalking local B&Ms. Z390 boards are being sold right now, though. ...just not EVGA's yet. 
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Oct 8, 2018 16:33
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Actually, the 9th gen hits shelves on the 19th. But Intel's already hinted that their availability is going to be poo poo, so you probably stand the best chance stalking local B&Ms. Z390 boards are being sold right now, though. Alright awesome, thanks for the response! Also, the teaser pics of the EVGA Z390 Dark board are lookin sexy.
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Oct 8, 2018 16:51
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Think I'll be lucky in selling my current rig to get enough for the 9900 and a board. Just another 2 grand for storage, memory and video!
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Oct 8, 2018 16:58
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Amazon's back with the 9900Ks at $530
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Oct 8, 2018 17:01
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Here in Italy, the 8700k is going for 480-500€ on Amazon at the moment (yes it's literally better to get an 8086k which is only 490€ for some reason  ), and the 8600k is about 350€ ... which was a pretty big reason for me to get a Ryzen 5 2600x for 200€I can not imagine what comically over-the-top price the new stuff will have, like 650€ for a 9700k? So if you want the best and latest, it's probably going to be 2000€ for a 2080Ti + 9700k. We're going a bit too far guys, I understand it's a luxury hobby but daaaaamn. 2000€ is a shitload of money and it would be good if you could get a whole build for that price, not just the two main components...
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Oct 8, 2018 17:15
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BIG HEADLINE posted:
there's no 5.25" space in that for the optical bay, unless Hed meant spinning magnetic rather than optical media I suppose the big question here is how long that RTX2080 is going to be the main choices seem to be 1) R6, or 2) heading into the ancient past of 2014 cases, when even HTPC cases fought to retain a 5.25" slot
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Oct 8, 2018 17:23
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I did this and it my cart it reverted to 499 and that's what I bought it at.
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Oct 8, 2018 17:28
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I bought a foot pedal years ago when I was transcribing. I want to use it again for other applications but I can't remember the name of the pedal, where I bought it (I think it was German or Dutch) and the software to change the key. Right now it's set as spacebar but I have no clue how to change it. It just plugs into a pc and mac like a custom keyboard plug and play. I can't remember or find software to change the setting. Any help would be much appreciated.
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Oct 8, 2018 18:34
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Winks posted:I did this and it my cart it reverted to 499 and that's what I bought it at. C'mon Amazon, give me the discount you tease (it's back in stock again BTW)
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Oct 8, 2018 18:43
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Jesus, that packaging
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Oct 8, 2018 18:48
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Actually, the 9th gen hits shelves on the 19th. But Intel's already hinted that their availability is going to be poo poo, so you probably stand the best chance stalking local B&Ms. Z390 boards are being sold right now, though. I'm kind of feeling the itch to get a better board again, I could still return the extreme4. That Taichi Ultimate looks pretty cool. I like the idea of EVGA's extended warranty in principle, just kind of a shame they don't have a board with 10GbE and their LLC/vdroop implementation kind of sucks.
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Oct 8, 2018 19:11
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