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popping into AI to show yall this neat rear end old Willys that showed up at our office today.  
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Oct 9, 2018 19:05
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Got the XJ back today, everything's running good. No more coolant spewing out. The mechanic also gave me a list of recommended things to take care of soon. Gonna start working on that this weekend; I don't want to be changing fluids when it starts snowing. I'm also going to clean off the engine, and take before-and-after pictures to show just how bad it is. It's pretty embarassing.  DJExile posted:popping into AI to show yall this neat rear end old Willys that showed up at our office today. That's pretty awesome, and would look  after some restoration work.
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Oct 10, 2018 21:12
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There's a similarly rusted-out Willys (but with a rebuilt engine in it) for sale in Corrales, NM for $3k. Seemed like a lot to me for something that had clearly sat in an orchard year-round for the last 40 years. Paint was a little better.
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Oct 10, 2018 21:38
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What are people choosing for one ton steering (tj) these days
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Oct 11, 2018 00:32
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I have the Currie Correctlink and it has been super solid for over 5 years. It's like $500 now. If I were doing it over again I might go cheap and just upgrade from stock TJ to the somewhat heavier duty ZJ steering. Or the Rugged Ridge at $300.
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Oct 11, 2018 |
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Oct 11, 2018 03:02
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Got in the jeep this morning, tried to drive it. Gauges all drop to zero, transmission slips like crazy. (As in, lots of throttle to slowly roll forward.) Possibly related - it rained last night. I’m thinking an electrical connection is causing both, but I have no idea where to look. What should i look at? 2000 Cherokee, 4x4, auto (aw4)
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Oct 13, 2018 18:43
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Astonishing Wang posted:I have the Currie Correctlink and it has been super solid for over 5 years. It's like $500 now. If I were doing it over again I might go cheap and just upgrade from stock TJ to the somewhat heavier duty ZJ steering. Or the Rugged Ridge at $300. Any particular reason you'd go RR this time? Unrelated and open question:realistically how hard would it be to fit a zf6 under a Tj?
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Oct 13, 2018 19:26
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Karma Comedian posted:Any particular reason you'd go RR this time? The only reason I wouldn't get the currie again is because it's so expensive. BUT, I haven't had to mess with it at all since installing it, so that might be worth a couple hundred bucks.
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Oct 13, 2018 21:57
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Krakkles posted:Got in the jeep this morning, tried to drive it. Gauges all drop to zero, transmission slips like crazy. (As in, lots of throttle to slowly roll forward.) Try pushing in the upper right corner of your gauge cluster to see if it pushes the connector back in and brings them back to life. Sometimes when the weather changes or I hit a big bump all my gauges go to zero, airbag light comes on, etc. and it's just the crappy connector. There was a TSB long ago apparently on it. It wouldn't affect the tranny though--dunno about that. 
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Oct 14, 2018 01:43
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mod sassinator posted:Try pushing in the upper right corner of your gauge cluster to see if it pushes the connector back in and brings them back to life. Sometimes when the weather changes or I hit a big bump all my gauges go to zero, airbag light comes on, etc. and it's just the crappy connector. There was a TSB long ago apparently on it. I've had this off and on for years and honest to god the most reliable way I've gotten the gauges to come back is to slam my fist on top of the dash like The Fonz. I actually just had it happen for the first time since I cleaned the connector out with contact cleaner and then filled it dielectric grease about five years ago. Agreed that it shouldn't affect the transmission though. Could be two unrelated issues at the same time, but that's unlikely. Bad ground somewhere?
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Oct 14, 2018 01:54
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Remember that the default gear for an unpowered aw4 with the shifter in drive is overdrive. So that's the symptoms of the trans controls being unpowered, too. Check your grounds, specifically the ones on the driver side inner fender near the airbox and ECU. IIRC they handle a lot of important stuff. Ninja edit: especially if it will give you first gear with the shifter in 1-2 and 3rd in 3.
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Oct 14, 2018 03:51
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1992 XJ - previous owner cut off the trailer plug, leaving seven bare wires. What's my best option for connecting a 4-pin trailer to this? I first thought maybe I could just wire up the correct 4 wires but of course it's a whole different scheme for doing turn signals apparently? Then I thought I could buy a 4 pin xj wiring kit but those don't seem to be made any more. Latest plan was to just buy a new seven-blade plug, try to figure out which wires go to which blade, then use an off-the shelf adapter, but I feel like there's got to be a better way. halp
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Oct 14, 2018 06:18
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MonkeyHate posted:1992 XJ - previous owner cut off the trailer plug, leaving seven bare wires. What's my best option for connecting a 4-pin trailer to this?  Easiest way would be to go with replacing the 7 pin connector. That diagram is out of a '95 FSM but should be the same. There is always this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-JEEP-C...bvv7J:rk:2:pf:0 depending on where you are. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Oct 14, 2018 |
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Oct 14, 2018 08:24
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kastein posted:Remember that the default gear for an unpowered aw4 with the shifter in drive is overdrive. So that's the symptoms of the trans controls being unpowered, too. Check your grounds, specifically the ones on the driver side inner fender near the airbox and ECU. IIRC they handle a lot of important stuff. Scary possibility: the connectors to the PCM both have broken latches. I have no idea how I’d go about replacing those, so I’m actually hoping it’s the PCM itself. The connections seem secure, at least, though that means little.
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Oct 15, 2018 01:18
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Veeb0rg posted:
Hell yeah thanks buddy.
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Oct 15, 2018 02:24
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Krakkles posted:This seems right, because shifting manually does let me select lower gears, but substantially improving the ground didn’t fix it. (It was two bolts to painted body, appeared to be factory, and one was broken (but after the body, so still attached and tight). I ran them to unpainted seam with a ground strap to another unpainted section.) Could the PCM just be bad? Very unlikely the ECU, since these have a mostly independent TCU. It might be the TCU but they don't go bad often at all. I'm guessing a bad connection or blown fuse somewhere... The trick is where. I was hoping it was that ground since I've had it cause very screwy behavior before, but apparently not in this case. What codes do you have, if any? Since the gauges are dropping to zero there's a good chance the cel is not up to date either, so it being off is no indication of no codes.
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Oct 15, 2018 04:08
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kastein posted:Very unlikely the ECU, since these have a mostly independent TCU. It might be the TCU but they don't go bad often at all. I'm guessing a bad connection or blown fuse somewhere... The trick is where. I was hoping it was that ground since I've had it cause very screwy behavior before, but apparently not in this case. What codes do you have, if any? Since the gauges are dropping to zero there's a good chance the cel is not up to date either, so it being off is no indication of no codes. No codes - just checked - but I did notice that the resting battery voltage was pretty low (12.1v). Bad battery would loop back to my overvoltage condition that I’ve been seeing. Could it be the root of this as well, though?
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Oct 15, 2018 05:38
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I've been doing my own oil changes for years now, but something I always wondered for high-mileage engines in general (XJ specifically). Are there any recommended oil filters? I usually just get a Fram High Mileage filter at the nearby AutoZone, but I also find horror stories online from people that used Fram filters. Also, is it worth getting any additives for oil? I don't know if there is anything considered safe or particularly useful. In case it matters, I use full synthetic.
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Oct 15, 2018 13:53
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Fram... They're built to minimize costs, but IMO not excessively. Considering that for a very long time, even in a large metro area, odds were good that the only filters you could easily find on a shelf for a given application were Fram, you'd expect a vastly higher number of failures if the cost saving measures actually caused problems regularly. I won't buy an orange can Fram because they want to charge way more than it's worth, but I have no problem running a higher end model if I can get it on sale. I've had good luck getting orange can equivalent filters on Rock Auto or Walmart clearance for dirt cheap. I grabbed a few Supertech Ford filters a while back for something like $2 each for the WJ.
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Oct 15, 2018 15:20
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Walmart always has the Mopar filter for the 4 liter (M-90) so that's what I get. I really don't care about the cost since at most I'm changing the filter maybe twice a year.
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Oct 15, 2018 18:46
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Krakkles posted:I was too! It sounded promising. Could be a bad battery cable. If power can't reliably get from the alternator to the battery it will cause overvoltage and can also cause some of the weird problems a bad ground would too.
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Oct 15, 2018 22:58
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Man, this is gonna sound weird, but my first box of cleaning supplies arrived, and these Tub O' Towels are fantastic. I just wiped down my entire kitchen with one of these things. They're like Lysol wipes on steroids. Can't wait to use them in my XJ. ...It's so easy to get excited over the most mundane poo poo when you're an adult.
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Oct 15, 2018 23:28
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The wire inside the harness, yes? How would I go about replacing that? I checked the connections to the alternator, they all appear to be tight and secure, but if I need to replace something I can. Pictures of wires, in case it helps: Redone grounds by airbox (yes, I want to clean this up / get rid of the cheese bolt, but it's what I had, and I think it's ok - left side of seam is grounds from harness, right side is a strap which drops down to the rear airbox bolt. I sanded all the surfaces to bright metal):  Negative battery to ground (replaced ~2015, clean and tight, pretty confident this is ok):  Positive battery terminal (replaced ~2015, clean and tight, pretty confident this is ok):  Positive to PDC (replaced ~2015, tight, could be cleaner, I'm going to clean it.):  Grounds to block behind alternator - these are stock, but solid, clean and tight:  Ugly strap to firewall - solid, though:  Other end of ugly strap - again, solidly attached:  Also, while I was in there, I checked the battery with a multimeter, now it's showing 12.65v. (The earlier reading was from the radio, which I shouldn't have trusted.) Edit: The one other thing is that it's got a belt squeal now - theres some obvious rubber stuck to one of the pulleys. I'm going to clean that off, and probably replace the belt, but I can't imagine that causing all of this. DizzyBum posted:Man, this is gonna sound weird, but my first box of cleaning supplies arrived, and these Tub O' Towels are fantastic. I just wiped down my entire kitchen with one of these things. They're like Lysol wipes on steroids. Can't wait to use them in my XJ. 
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Oct 15, 2018 |
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Oct 15, 2018 23:32
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I have a 96 ZJ I picked up a while ago that I have an issue with. There is a fuel smell in the cab since I filled the tank more than half for the first time. I think I’ve narrowed the source down to the little lines that Attach to the top of the fuel pump module. I was able to view this without dropping the tank because a previous owner helpfully hacked a hole above the fuel pump for easy access. What I’m trying to figure out is what these lines are called so I can replace them. The pump is fine and it runs it’s just smelly. I’ll post a pic when I get home.
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Oct 19, 2018 22:43
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The Fear posted:I have a 96 ZJ I picked up a while ago that I have an issue with. There is a fuel smell in the cab since
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Oct 19, 2018 23:35
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Krakkles posted:According to the XJ FSM (which, configuration is likely the same, but part numbers may not be - lucky there aren't any here!), you're probably looking for the Fuel Supply Tube and/or the Evap Canister Vent Line. Mine is a different module it has a line in and a line out as well as an electrical connection
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Oct 20, 2018 00:10
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Weather is looking good for this weekend, so I should have ample time to clean my windshield and engine bay tomorrow.  (Also gonna take care of the wife's Mazda's windshield while I'm at it.)I need to remember to hit up the dollar store tomorrow for empty spray bottles and cheap paintbrushes.
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Oct 20, 2018 00:22
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The Fear posted:Mine is a different module it has a line in and a line out as well as an electrical connection Also, there's clearly an electrical connection on that diagram, so ...
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Oct 20, 2018 00:51
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Fixed my inside driver door handle/latch today on the 715 - before, I had to roll the window down to open it up from the outside. It required just tack welding a small tab onto the end of the lever mechanism so it could actually push the latch it needed to. I was pleasantly surprised that the inside door cover was just held on by 10ish spring clips and the latch was held on by 3 screws, so disassembly took just a couple of minutes. I absolutely love how simple this thing is to work on coming from a JK.
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Oct 20, 2018 01:26
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I got a new (aftermarket) fuel gauge finally and want to mount it in my dash cluster. Before I pull the cluster and start trying, is it feasible to cut a hole where the stock gauge is and just slot the new gauge in? I assume it is but want to double check.
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Oct 20, 2018 15:42
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Didn't get to do much this weekend on the XJ so I just cleaned and waxed my windshield. Definitely makes a difference; water just gets blown off the glass now instead of clinging and leaving marks. I'll do my wife's windshield sometime this week, and then hopefully clean my engine when I get more time. My windshield's going to need to be replaced soon. It's 19 years old and it's got a lot of wear. It's also got a crack that's slowly making its way across, and I'd rather not be dealing with that when the freezing temps arrive. Might be time for a new battery, too, now that I think about it.
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Oct 22, 2018 20:00
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Double posting because I just came home from work today and now all of a sudden the XJ won't crank at all. No clicking, battery seems fine, just nothing happens when I turn the key. Even tried to shift to neutral and start it, nothing. It was just really weird. I started it fine at the office, now all of a sudden it just won't crank and it's not even an hour later. I really can't afford to send it right back into the shop so I guess I'll be figuring this one myself. e: I'll try to start it again once the engine has cooled down. Apparently that can indicate a specific problem. Would certainly be better than it not working at all, but I don't want to get stranded. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Oct 23, 2018 |
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Oct 23, 2018 20:52
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DizzyBum posted:Double posting because I just came home from work today and now all of a sudden the XJ won't crank at all. No clicking, battery seems fine, just nothing happens when I turn the key. Even tried to shift to neutral and start it, nothing. Sounds dumb but did you check the battery terminal connectors? This happened on my TJ, after a short drive I had nothing at all and towed it home. Cleaned off the connectors on the terminals and it’s started fine ever since.
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Oct 24, 2018 05:13
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:Sounds dumb but did you check the battery terminal connectors? This happened on my TJ, after a short drive I had nothing at all and towed it home. Cleaned off the connectors on the terminals and it’s started fine ever since. Your username gives me anxiety.
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Oct 24, 2018 13:10
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The XJ started last night and this morning so I think I'm safe for now. My wife's old '96 XJ had the same starting problem before she sold it. Still planning to diagnose the problem and I'm expecting to replace the starter. Drunk Beekeeper posted:Sounds dumb but did you check the battery terminal connectors? This happened on my TJ, after a short drive I had nothing at all and towed it home. Cleaned off the connectors on the terminals and it’s started fine ever since. Lights/radio/dashboard/etc. were all working perfectly so I didn't even consider checking the battery terminals. I'm going to replace the battery in a few days anyway, and I'll be cleaning my engine bay while it's out. So I'll be sure to clean the connectors.
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Oct 24, 2018 17:59
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I bet it's the starter, and IMHO replace it now before it's stuck in a parking lot for a weekend and you blow $100 on a tow. When my starter went I had the same symptoms and tried everything (shorting out the NSS in the wiring harness, manually connecting the starter solenoid to try engaging it, etc.) but in the end it was the starter. I had noticed in the weeks leading up to it that it would sometimes not start on the first key turn so there was at least a little warning, but then one day (usually at the most inopportune time) it's stuck for good.
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Oct 24, 2018 18:33
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mod sassinator posted:I bet it's the starter, and IMHO replace it now before it's stuck in a parking lot for a weekend and you blow $100 on a tow. When my starter went I had the same symptoms and tried everything (shorting out the NSS in the wiring harness, manually connecting the starter solenoid to try engaging it, etc.) but in the end it was the starter. I had noticed in the weeks leading up to it that it would sometimes not start on the first key turn so there was at least a little warning, but then one day (usually at the most inopportune time) it's stuck for good. I have AAA  But yeah, in all seriousness, I'm already planning to replace it ASAP.
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Oct 24, 2018 18:43
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You should still hear the solenoid click if it's the starter itself. Too bad it's intermittent. I bet it'll be really easy to diagnose once whatever it is dies completely.
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Oct 24, 2018 18:54
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I had that happen on my car recently, it was the battery, metered fine, ran all the auxiliaries fine, instantly flopped under load.
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Oct 24, 2018 19:54
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Please please please actually troubleshoot the problem instead of just throwing money at it. I promise you will be happier. Unless you want to just replace the battery, starter, wires, fuse, relay, NSS, and ignition switch. I mean it's your money. But it's one of the simplest systems to troubleshoot in a Jeep electrical system, so why shotgun parts/money at it and still get stranded a few more times?
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Oct 24, 2018 22:38
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