|
Arivia posted:Here's a review from today of just that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgos262u6cI
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2018 14:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 11:25 |
|
|
The components on that mobo are bottom barrel garbage. It will not last.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2018 17:03
|
|
|
Yeah, here's the same guy's review of a couple more and he has noticeably soured on them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUGb2Uh1C2w
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2018 18:49
|
|
|
I'll let you know.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2018 09:27
|
|
|
Please don't. Just don't. You don't need to do this to yourself. There are people who care about you. Don't do it. Hold The Ashes fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Oct 14, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2018 09:36
|
|
|
Please help! So my 3tb external hdd started having trouble loading up, so I tried to defrag it. It wouldn't show up in the system defragger, so I downloaded defraggler. It kept erroring while trying to defrag, so i tried the check for errors option and this popped up:  I selected yes and then it said it needed to unmount the drive to go through it properly. I said yes again and it started. But it errored out and never remounted my drive. Now when option pops up it says it cannot open the volume for direct access. What can I do? Edit: just tried replugging it and it flashes and disappears Power cycling both seems to have fixed that problem and the original. Ok thanks. Though it still won't properly defrag. bushisms.txt fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Oct 15, 2018 |
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2018 23:17
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:Please help! So my 3tb external hdd started having trouble loading up, so I tried to defrag it. It wouldn't show up in the system defragger, so I downloaded defraggler. It kept erroring while trying to defrag, so i tried the check for errors option and this popped up: It might not be a bad idea to load up Crystal Disk Info (handy link: https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ ) and make sure the drives SMART monitoring isn't screaming "This drive is about to die, get a copy of everything you want to keep from it like yesterday.".
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2018 23:42
|
|
|
Haha! Stop defragging! That's the absolute worst thing you can do to a possibly failing drive! Unplug it, buy a replacement, cross your fingers and try to copy your data. Should have been backed up in the first place.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2018 01:21
|
|
|
If your disk is broke, you need a new disk.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2018 11:49
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:It might not be a bad idea to load up Crystal Disk Info (handy link: https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ ) and make sure the drives SMART monitoring isn't screaming "This drive is about to die, get a copy of everything you want to keep from it like yesterday.". I don't know how to tell if something is dying. Everything was green, or is it the speed I should be looking at?
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2018 16:14
|
|
|
From the moment its born, a hard drive is dying
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2018 16:29
|
|
|
BORN TO DIE WORLD IS A gently caress CrystalDiskInfo x64 I am crashed head 410,757,864,530 BAD SECTORS
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2018 16:32
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:I don't know how to tell if something is dying. Everything was green, or is it the speed I should be looking at? Take a screenshot of CDI with Snipping Tool and post it here.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2018 19:24
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:I don't know how to tell if something is dying. Everything was green, or is it the speed I should be looking at? SMART diagnostic info is not a guaranteed indicator of drive health, but it can help. The short explanation is that if it seems like something's wrong with the drive, then it probably is failing and you need to make sure your backups are current. You can certainly continue to use it if you can quickly replace the drive with a new one and restore from the backup once it finally fails, although it may make more sense to move it to a more secondary purpose in that case (e.g. for games.) The slightly longer explanation is that if there are hints in the SMART readout, they tend to be things like reallocated sectors or spin up retries, which indicate failed areas of the disk surface and motor failures, respectively.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 02:34
|
|
|
Ok, I'll takea picture tonight. The drive is working super quick now, though, so I don't know what happened.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 02:43
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:Ok, I'll takea picture tonight. The drive is working super quick now, though, so I don't know what happened. I would strongly suggest taking the advice about backups if you haven't already! Even though the drive appears to be working fine now, you should take the recent "blip" as a warning! I had a ST3000DM001 fail recently, a pretty notorious drive that had nevertheless been working fine for several years in a fairly light-duty environment. It had, once or twice, disappeared from the OS and I didn't think anything of it until one day it had its final actuator/head failure. I had backups, but it was nevertheless a surprise because the drive hours were low and SMART status was good. I've been experimenting with HD Sentinel which monitors HDD status and provides multiple scan options. It even gives you a "drive health" and expected remaining lifetime indicator, although that's by no means an exact science. I have an old WD 500 GB drive with a warning in CDI for uncorrected sectors, but HDS reports that only a single sector was reallocated and doesn't express any other concern for the drive ("99% life remaining.) In contrast, I have another drive, a newer Seagate 500 GB one that CDI reported reallocated sectors for, and HDS then clarified that there were 792 reallocated sectors and it predicted a drive health of ~9%. Neither drive changed status after multiple deep scans, and while they're not being used for anything, these are the types of drives that you should beware of if you did decide to keep them in service. (Contrast that with my Seagate 3 TB above with no SMART warnings indicating the impending failure!) (For a final example, I bought a refurb'd, "like-new" Toshiba 6 TB and after multiple deep scans it only shows one reallocated sector at the very end of the scan, so maybe the far inner edge? Neither HDS nor CDI report any warnings about this drive.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 03:00
|
|
|
So I've been trying to figure out CAS latency, QVL, DDR frequency, and all this poo poo to no avail. I am getting an i7-9700k, I will be mating it to an ASRock Z390 phantom ITX board. I do not plan on overclocking , in fact if anything I will undervolt for better temps in a tiny case. I ordered this RAM because it was cheap and I'm not sure if I want LEDs or not so I figured better to have it and not need it: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232764 If I'm not overclocking is there any advantage to returning this and getting something from the QVL, and if so what frequency? Is there a particular brand that is known for running cool and drama free at stock frequencies?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 03:40
|
|
|
Don't spend that much money, just get some 3000mhz memory.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 03:55
|
|
|
Gangringo posted:So I've been trying to figure out CAS latency, QVL, DDR frequency, and all this poo poo to no avail. RAM overclocking isn't really anything like CPU overclocking. It doesn't get hot or cause problems if you stay at the speeds the RAM is rated for. The Z370 platform is made for 2666 to be a stock speed, but 3000 or 3200 (or 3600 I guess) is barely any more money for a lot more performance, even though the XMP profile to enable the higher speeds counts as being overclocked simply because it's higher than 2666. CAS latency and DDR frequency aren't the only timings to worry about but they're the main ones. You can do a ballpark comparison between RAM with different frequencies and CAS by multiplying the numbers together and seeing which one is higher. High CAS and high frequency isn't as good as low CAS and slightly lower frequency but getting a ballpark "speed" is an okay way to check the difference. This is not at all an exhaustive comparison, just a general ballpark way to compare. Your RAM choice should be fine, make sure to use XMP profile in the UEFI to get the full 3600 out of it, it is unlikely to cause an issue. If you don't change the XMP it will run at 2666 and you spent extra for the extra frequency. With some processors you want to make sure to follow the qualified vendor list because it means that the motherboard manufacturer tried that ram with that CPU and essentially assures that it works. It's more of an issue when you're putting together high end servers or with the first gen of Ryzen which can often be temperamental with RAM. I wouldn't expect you to have any issues with an Intel CPU. Everything above is fairly straight forward. Where things get more complicated is something you aren't likely to be doing like making the individual timings on your memory lower than what they're rated for. That's what a lot of folks consider actually properly overclocking your RAM and often where people run into instability.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 03:56
|
|
|
LRADIKAL posted:Don't spend that much money, just get some 3000mhz memory. It was cheaper when I bought it then it went out of stock and came back at a higher price. it was around $150 when I ordered it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 04:03
|
|
|
Here's that crystal readout
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 07:21
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:Here's that crystal readout That's crystal disk mark, the speed tester, you want crystal disk info, the SMART data viewer. Same developer but different programs: https://crystalmark.info/en/download/#CrystalDiskInfo Get standard edition unless you like anime girls.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 07:24
|
|
|
Gangringo posted:It was cheaper when I bought it then it went out of stock and came back at a higher price. it was around $150 when I ordered it. Well then it's a great deal. It may not work at xmp speed but you should be able to get some nice performance out if it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 07:24
|
|
|
Oh yeah I scrolled down to the relevant section:
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 07:31
|
|
|
Subscribe to backblaze, buy a new drive. The more scans and defrags and benchmarks you run the more likely it is to stop working. On the other hand it could be a sketchy cable.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 07:50
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:Oh yeah I scrolled down to the relevant section: Um, red flag!  Do you see the model number of the drive you have there? Did you read my post where I described the same drive model? Google that model; it's the one that's pretty notorious for being failure-prone (there's even a pending class-action lawsuit.) Now to be fair, a lot of the hysteria was with Backblaze using a bunch of those in their storage pods, and these consumer drives are explicitly not for that purpose (dedicated NAS, enterprise drives have vibration sensors and are designed to run with many other HDDs in the same enclosure.) I have another of those drives that's fine so far, but the one that did fail only had about 5500 hours on it...and your has almost quadruple that!  And again, mine failed due to the actuator, not the motor or media failure (more on that below) but yours has probably been used heavily enough that it's nearing the end of its natural life. Consumer drives are not rated for 24x7 use, and even with a 5-6 year lifespan (that drive is at least that old) you're about there at an average of 8 hours per day.Now going back to your screenshot, those SMART errors both suggest a problem with the media; the platters are developing bad sectors, specifically there appear to be 408 sectors that the drive has determined it has trouble reading and it will remap those in the future. To be on the safe side we have to insist you make sure your backups are up-to-date and you have a replacement drive ready to go. You can continue to use the drive until it fails outright, but the combination of that drive model, the wear on it, and the developing drive platter surface errors* are all signs it's on its way out soon. Like I said, I had one of those for over 5 years, I know the drive is pretty fast, I know it otherwise works fine, but you really need to take our advice and prepare for its demise. *It's not a cable failure as LRadikal suggested; those SMART errors are regarding the drive controller being unable to read those sectors, and it has marked them for reallocation. That HD Sentinel program I mentioned has a verification scan that will force the drive to read and write to the entire surface multiple times to make certain that those sectors are unreadable, but they will otherwise be remapped automatically by the drive controller, and everything I said above about the drive pending failure applies.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 09:05
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:Oh yeah I scrolled down to the relevant section:  I'd suggest backing up the data and replacing the drive ASAP.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 09:20
|
|
|
So I'm just gonna unplug it until I need it. Can't afford a drive right this moment, and the drive is usually just for media storage, so I'm hoping that can hold off the imminent death until black Friday at least.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 09:48
|
|
|
That would be the best strategy; the drive should be safe while powered off until you can do something more permanent about it. It looks like you're only using about half that drive anyway, so a 2 TB one could suffice if you're really on a budget. In general, $20/TB or less is a good price (above the smallest drive sizes.) Or, if you act fast you could get something like this drive which is older/refurb'd, but it's an enterprise drive and it's <$50 for 3 TB if you get the MIR. Drives like that that are pulled and re-sold are tested first and warrantied, so you can probably be assured of getting a drive with more life than the one you have now (it's suggested to do a deep surface scan first before you actively begin using the drive.) Ideally you'd get a new drive (not that new drives don't fail, but that's besides the point) but since you're in a pickle here I'm presenting it as an option.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 10:14
|
|
|
 I assume these temps correspond to my CHA_FAN thermometers, but which ones does each refer to? Is TMPIN0 CHA_FAN1, 1-2, and 2-3 here?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 13:03
|
|
|
Do you actually have thermometers on your chassis fans or where do you expect those numbers to be from? That is not a usual configuration. You generally have temperature sensors on the CPU and motherboard. In any case, the meaning of any temperature sensors is totally dependent on the specific product. The best you can do is just compare against the manufacturer's own utilities. Which may give even completely different numbers! My Asus AI Suite consistently says my CPU is at 43 degrees when every other app says 65. However, I think AI Suite is in the wrong on this one, as the number does not even shift much under load.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 13:11
|
|
|
I'm just assuming something is producing the temps. My fans are being a bit weird so I'm trying to figure out what's spinning up all the time. All the more reason for me to set up some external sensors myself so I won't have to speculate I guess.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 13:19
|
|
|
I wouldn't trust motherboard temperatures with my life. The readings come from unknown places on the board and may or may not correspond to anything real. What I would actually look at is CPU and GPU temperatures. If the motherboard is controlling the speed of case fans this is related to the CPU temp in most cases. What do you mean by the fans being weird? What is their actual behavior?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 13:41
|
|
|
That also looks like HWmonitor, which is really flaky and weird in a lot of scenarios. Use HWinfo64 instead.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 16:34
|
|
|
Your mobo manual should indicate where the temp sensors are. Whether theyre accurate tho 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 16:38
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:That also looks like HWmonitor, which is really flaky and weird in a lot of scenarios. Use HWinfo64 instead. I hadn't heard HWmonitor wasn't reliable; does HWinfo64 do the same thing, just better?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 16:53
|
|
|
A Strange Aeon posted:I hadn't heard HWmonitor wasn't reliable; does HWinfo64 do the same thing, just better? Pretty much. Interface looks a bit different but it's mostly the same deal, just run it in sensors only mode (you'll be asked on startup) and it looks pretty similar. I've had bad experiences with HWmonitor myself (reporting weird values that made no sense). The hardcore overclocking crowd seems to universally use HWinfo64 too and I think Buildzoid also specifically mentioned HWmonitor as being unreliable in a recent video. That being said though, most motherboards will have a few numbered temp sensors (i.e. TMP1, TMP2, etc) that are more or less cryptic. Sometimes they're actually hooked up to a sensor, but it's hard to figure out where it is, but sometimes they're not really reporting anything relevant at all. If you use HWInfo the actually relevant ones will most likely be labeled with what they are actually reporting instead and you can assume the ones with just numbers aren't interesting.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 17:05
|
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:Oh yeah I scrolled down to the relevant section: I had this same drive model fail on me earlier this year in the same manner.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 18:06
|
|
|
Collusion!!!
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 19:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 11:25 |
|
|
bushisms.txt posted:Oh yeah I scrolled down to the relevant section: Yep, there is a reason that model is pretty infamous, here is a shot of the one I have:  That's 62,968 reallocated sectors (and 176 more pending). Did it like one month to the day past when its warranty expired too. I kept backups anyway so it wasn't a problem, but the drive held on just long enough for me to dump its entire contents over to its replacement before it started corrupting its file system. So definitely pull the power cord out of yours until you are ready to copy everything off of it, because once they start going you aren't going to get that much time to copy everything off. I'd say since you even tried to defragment it a couple times it would probably be wise to prioritize what you want to save from the drive the most, just in case it totally bricks before you get everything.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2018 22:35
|
|