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Fender Anarchist posted:As nice as the low prices from online sellers are, nothing will ever beat the convenience of going to a local parts store and being able to take the part out of the box and compare it to your old one. That's certainly true, but it's also nice to have the part show up and be in your hand without having to take it off the car first 😃
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Oct 20, 2018 16:17
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Astonishing Wang posted:That's certainly true, but it's also nice to have the part show up and be in your hand without having to take it off the car first 😃 Especially if removing the part means disabling your only functional vehicle.
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Oct 20, 2018 16:22
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Thinking of taking my Korean luxobarge camping, but want to take my laptop/charge my phone and computer when the power goes out at home*. For a laptop, a basic 100 watt would do, just get whatever one Walmart has for $15. It's not really a big purchase you need to research and cross shop unless you plan to get a big expensive 1500 watt for an RV or something.
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Oct 20, 2018 17:42
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How often should you replace struts? My Fit’s got 140KMi on it, and I doubt if they’ve been replaced. Ideally, I would wait till the spring (broken ankle). They aren’t sagging or leaking.
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Oct 20, 2018 21:19
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nitsuga posted:How often should you replace struts? My Fit’s got 140KMi on it, and I doubt if they’ve been replaced. Ideally, I would wait till the spring (broken ankle). They aren’t sagging or leaking. spog posted:Put your hands on the bodywork and bounce the whole car up and down, corner by corner.
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Oct 20, 2018 21:47
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Any recommendations on a first project car, cheaper the better? I like working on cars but my wife is only so comfortable with me tinkering with our daily drivers, which is understandable, and it didn't really A truck would be kind of nice since we anything we have to haul has to be done with my wife's Expedition. Jeep wouldn't be bad either. I'm not opposed to a car either. The main goal is to get better at wrenching and either have a useable vehicle as a bonus or something I can turn around to at least to break even or come close.
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Oct 21, 2018 01:23
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Older Jeeps are easy to work on, but you have to do your homework. A lot of people think true pieces of poo poo are gold-plated, and a lot of people think they can just add the cost of all their parts (bumpers, winches, lights, etc) onto the asking price and get all that money back. Older trucks are easy to work on, and parts are usually cheap.
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Oct 21, 2018 01:51
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The easiest to work on would probably be any year/flavor of gas-engine Silverado. Newer models get more computerized, but not truly hard to work on until you get into CANBUS stuff on the GMT-900 trucks. (2006 and newer, depending on exact model.) The ‘88-‘98 GMT400 trucks are at the bottom of the price/value arc, and are your best bet for something cheap but still in reasonable condition. Jeeps are awesome, and old Jeep’s are comically easy to work on, but Jeep people are literally retarded and think their 30 year old rusty piece of poo poo is worth $12k. There are deals out there if you’re patient, though.
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Oct 21, 2018 02:02
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Has anyone used https://autoparts.beforward.jp for finding parts? Not for buying from them but for locating the part required with their diagrams. I used to be able to access my cars information using: https://autoparts.beforward.jp/vehi...&group_number=X but not it just redirects me to my home page. I've tried different (shortened) versions of the URL to see if I could find another way in, but no luck. I used to be able to access all the blown-up diagrams for all vehicles, can anyone else access them, possibly using the link above or some iteration of it? If not, does anyone have a good website to find something similar? The beforward website had everything broken down very comprehensively all the way down to part number. Thanks in any case.
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Oct 21, 2018 02:23
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vulturesrow posted:Any recommendations on a first project car, cheaper the better? I like working on cars but my wife is only so comfortable with me tinkering with our daily drivers, which is understandable, and it didn't really Low Tech: Anything before 1980 No tech: Air-cooled VW (edit) motorcycles are a great starting point, although it may test your marriage. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 12:45 on Oct 21, 2018 |
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Oct 21, 2018 03:00
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Does anyone know how i stop this coolant leak on my 1997 Civic (D17Y8) motor? I was convinced it was the upper radiator hose that was leaking, but after replacing it twice I've realized that its actually leaking from the bottom of the fitting that the upper radiator hose connects to. Its a really minor leak but the occasional smell of coolant burning off the exhaust manifold is annoying. There appears to be some sort of gasket in between the fitting and the engine. Does anyone know if thats a premade gasket or just liquid gasket? Do I need to drain all the coolant prior to taking this fitting off? I've gotten away with not draining when I've replaced the radiator hose. I can't seem to find any info on the usual honda forums since I don't know what this fitting is called.   I guess I better replace the valve cover gasket while I'm at it... Nohearum fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Oct 21, 2018 |
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Oct 21, 2018 03:29
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a forbidden love posted:Has anyone used https://autoparts.beforward.jp for finding parts? Not for buying from them but for locating the part required with their diagrams. I don't use beforward.jp, but I have a bunch of other sites I've used to locate parts. Your second link sends me to what it says, to the rear brake schematic for a Nissan Presage TNU31. I suspect that there is some sort of extension on whatever browser you are using that is tripping up the link. You could try running your browser in safe mode and see if you can get to it that way, as I am running through a VPN with a bunch of adblock and script blocking extensions on my browser and I can get to it just fine. I've found that https://www.partsouq.com has the cleanest and largest diagrams with an easy to navigate site. I don't know what year Presage you are after so I chose 2004: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...4&vid=149567&q= I've also used these sites before as well, partsfan requires an account registration last I remember. https://partsfan.com/ http://jp-carparts.com/ https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej
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Oct 21, 2018 03:36
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Nohearum posted:Does anyone know how i stop this coolant leak on my 1997 Civic (D17Y8) motor? I was convinced it was the upper radiator hose that was leaking, but after replacing it twice I've realized that its actually leaking from the bottom of the fitting that the upper radiator hose connects to. Its a really minor leak but the occasional smell of coolant burning off the exhaust manifold is annoying. That’s your thermostat housing. It’s been a little while, but I swear my del Sol used a paper gasket, and I think my brother’s ‘98 Civic does too. A refresh of it all should help (thermostat, thermostat gasket, and the housing gasket). Make sure you tighten the bolts to spec too.
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Oct 21, 2018 04:45
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Godholio posted:Older Jeeps are easy to work on, but you have to do your homework. Having owned an old Jeep, I agree. AMC built the body and engine, everything else is just random poo poo they got cheap from the Big 3 -- mine had a Mopar transmission and Ford ECU, carb, and A/C compressor. Fun story, I proactively replaced the ECU on the Jeep, but kept the original as a spare. One time my father's '80s E-150 work van broke down, he called me for help, I swapped in my spare ECU, and it fired right up. I miss my Jeep. Javid posted:For a laptop, a basic 100 watt would do, just get whatever one Walmart has for $15. It's not really a big purchase you need to research and cross shop unless you plan to get a big expensive 1500 watt for an RV or something. Also laptops run on DC, but a 12v to 20v thingamatizer costs more than an inverter. (I once had a Windows 3.1 tablet that came with a car lighter adapter. Pretty sure it ran on 13v.) In other news, my Kia Amanti/Opirus is throwing an error code saying the engine speed sensor is dead. The OBDII reader app I have has all kinds of dire warnings about how it's turbofucked, may not start, may stop unexpectedly, etc. It runs fine, only problem I've noticed is the tach is flaky. I'm calling the local dealership the next weekday I have off. Any bets on whether the car makes it there?
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Oct 21, 2018 08:58
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Fender Anarchist posted:As nice as the low prices from online sellers are, nothing will ever beat the convenience of going to a local parts store and being able to take the part out of the box and compare it to your old one. The online sellers also often stock the OEM part for hilariously less than a dealer. For example, just got an AC Delco Original Equipment gas cap for  on Amazon (it was $12 on Rockauto). That was $70 at AutoZone for the same part number.(AC Delco has a few different lines... their OE line is supposed to be the original part that came on the car, or the current replacement version). nitsuga posted:That’s your thermostat housing. It’s been a little while, but I swear my del Sol used a paper gasket, and I think my brother’s ‘98 Civic does too. A refresh of it all should help (thermostat, thermostat gasket, and the housing gasket). Make sure you tighten the bolts to spec too. Yup, paper gaskets, and that's definitely the thermostat housing gasket. And the bolt holes strip out stupidly easy if you overtighten. They really don't need to be past "hand tight + 1/4 turn", if you're not using a torque wrench. A very light coat of RTV (paper thin smear) on both sides of the gasket will help it seal if there's any buildup on the housing.
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Oct 21, 2018 09:11
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vulturesrow posted:Any recommendations on a first project car, cheaper the better? I like working on cars but my wife is only so comfortable with me tinkering with our daily drivers, which is understandable, and it didn't really Agreeing with old truck advice but depending on where you're located a lot of them can be completely rotted out in only 10 years or so. So if you live in one of those areas (salt belt) make sure the body and frame are still solid.
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Oct 21, 2018 09:32
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Nohearum posted:Does anyone know how i stop this coolant leak on my 1997 Civic (D17Y8) motor? Yes, there is a pre-made gasket for it, and no, it isn't on it at the moment - it's sealed with what looks like (but hopefully is not) caulk. Looking at that first photo, I'd hazard a guess that your problem is to the left side, where the heaviest layer of sealer is showing. Hopefully, it's not cracked, and the threads are not stripped. It may be caulked because the proper gasket doesn't seal. This is typically because the aluminum part (the hose neck) has either warped a little (unlikely) or has been previously hacked at in an effort to remove gasket material, creating divots in the face (more likely). The proper repair is to remove the neck and, using a piece of 100-grit laid on a formica or similar surface, or stapled to a good flat piece of wood, sand it until the face is flat & even and all the cut marks are gone, then clean it up with 150-180-grit. Then reinstall using aviation gasket cement and the correct paper gasket. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 12:48 on Oct 21, 2018 |
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Oct 21, 2018 12:42
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vulturesrow posted:Any recommendations on a first project car, cheaper the better? I like working on cars but my wife is only so comfortable with me tinkering with our daily drivers, which is understandable, and it didn't really I would also suggest a chevy truck from the 90's except the S10 because the price for those is inflated. They're cheap parts are easily available and most have a built in diagnostic system of some type. I would not suggest something carburated without someone to assist you since that can get very frustrating fast if you're new. Fuel injection generally doesn't need to be finely tuned like a carb. Alternatively anything honda or toyota from the 90's would also be pretty easy to get into and you only need like 5 sockets to take the entire car apart. I first learned on an old Toyota Camry with stupid miles on it so everything was worn out.
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Oct 21, 2018 14:59
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Chillbro Baggins posted:
What's the specific code? I'm guessing either crank sensor or cam sensor, but the fact that it still runs tells me the computer must have a failsafe where it can still run the engine with one of those two sensors dead.
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Oct 21, 2018 15:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:What's the specific code? I'm guessing either crank sensor or cam sensor, but the fact that it still runs tells me the computer must have a failsafe where it can still run the engine with one of those two sensors dead. P0320. I might poke at it at some point, will probably be taking it to the dealership on Wednesday because gently caress working on a sideways V6. (It just occurred to me that this is the first front-wheel-drive and V6 I've owned. The previous five cars were RWD, mostly V8s and one I6.) Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Oct 21, 2018 |
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Oct 21, 2018 18:55
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I'm installing a FrostHeater into my Golf and right at the end kind of hosed up. There's a bracket that holds the FrostHeater to the block so it doesn't vibrate or rattle around too much. The bracket mounts with a single bolt to a threaded hole on the side of the block near the AC compressor, but that hole was pretty rusty. The bolt was tough to thread in and, about halfway in, started to round off the head, so I stopped. I can't really get at it with anything other than an open-ended wrench since it's a tight space. See the (bad) diagram below: There's probably 1/2 inch left until the bolt is flush with the bracket. I can't tell if the threads were just too rusty/gunked up, or if it's cross-threaded, but either way, what's the path of least resistance? Can I just spray some penetrating oil in there and work it until it's all the way in? Is there some sort of rubber bushing or other weird niche product I could attach between the bolt head and the bracket to make it more secure? The bolt is in there far enough that I don't think it's going anywhere, but I'd also rather not lose all my coolant on the freeway because the thing vibrated itself loose.
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Oct 21, 2018 20:44
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Google suggests that most people who post about it have a bad coil or 5. Could be anything from an intermittent misfire to a bad CPS, but I'd be surprised if it "runs fine" with a bad CPS.
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Oct 21, 2018 20:44
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shabbat goy posted:I'm installing a FrostHeater into my Golf and right at the end kind of hosed up. There's a bracket that holds the FrostHeater to the block so it doesn't vibrate or rattle around too much. The bracket mounts with a single bolt to a threaded hole on the side of the block near the AC compressor, but that hole was pretty rusty. The bolt was tough to thread in and, about halfway in, started to round off the head, so I stopped. I can't really get at it with anything other than an open-ended wrench since it's a tight space. See the (bad) diagram below: I would tell you to take that bolt out before you break something. If you can, run a tap through it and put in a new bolt. If you try to force it, chances are you'll break off the head, or worse, break the bolt inside of the hole. Otherwise, you can try a shorter bolt or stick some washers under the head, I guess. You'd want to take it out either way.
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Oct 21, 2018 21:01
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Godholio posted:Google suggests that most people who post about it have a bad coil or 5. Could be anything from an intermittent misfire to a bad CPS, but I'd be surprised if it "runs fine" with a bad CPS. Yeah, my ex had a Jeep with a crank sensor that went bad, it did fail to start/randomly die while driving. That was not fun on I-30 in Dallas. I'm taking the Kia to the dealership when I get a chance. gently caress swapping coils on a sideways V6. I would just scrap it and buy a RWD V8 (or I6, I miss my '92 F150), but I decided the day I got it that when it's replaced as a daily driver I'm taking it to LeMons (they have special rules for Korean luxobarges), so I have a duty to keep it in shape until I get the funds to put a cage in it and kill it properly in an endurance race, blasting PSY and Hyuna's tunes on loop on the stereo (when you have a gimmick, might as well take it all the way) for 24 hours or until the transmission falls out, whichever comes first.
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Oct 21, 2018 21:16
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shabbat goy posted:I'm installing a FrostHeater into my Golf and right at the end kind of hosed up. There's a bracket that holds the FrostHeater to the block so it doesn't vibrate or rattle around too much. The bracket mounts with a single bolt to a threaded hole on the side of the block near the AC compressor, but that hole was pretty rusty. The bolt was tough to thread in and, about halfway in, started to round off the head, so I stopped. I can't really get at it with anything other than an open-ended wrench since it's a tight space. See the (bad) diagram below: Echoing remove it before it breaks or completely rounds, best case scenario you get it in but it will almost certainly be a problem if you ever need to take it back out. A tap would be ideal but just cleaning the hole out and using a new bolt with some WD40 will likely be fine.
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Oct 21, 2018 21:33
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I would also a) thread a new bolt in without the bracket to see if the hole is okay and b) thread a nut onto the bolt to make sure the bolt is okay.
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Oct 21, 2018 21:50
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Nthing the "remove bolt, chase threads, install new, shorter bolt or add washers to new same length bolt".
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Oct 21, 2018 22:03
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My car (2002 Ford ZX2) is developing all the rattles and clunks that start to happen to 16-year-old cars. I like the car very much and would like to get it back to its original state where going over a pothole didn't go KABANG and driving down San Francisco's washboard streets didn't sound like shaking a tin can full of nails. (minor exaggerations) I know stuff about motorcycle suspension but not as much about automobile parts. The car is still on all-original suspension components. What things should I replace or repair to get my car back to a nice comfortable ride? I am not concerned about handling performance (other than, like, a reasonable level of responsiveness for safety) but I do want it to be a more pleasant experience.
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Oct 21, 2018 22:36
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Those ZX2s are pretty much Mazda Protoges underneath. I'd replace the shocks, shock/strut tops and tie rod ends at least. I'll defer to several other posters who know the platform better. You might want to also consider engine and transmission mounts.
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Oct 22, 2018 00:14
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wesleywillis posted:Nthing the "remove bolt, chase threads, install new, shorter bolt or add washers to new same length bolt". What I do at work is give it to the machinists. Either I break something and they're mad at me for making them fix it or they break something and fix it anyway. 
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Oct 22, 2018 00:50
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KakerMix posted:I don't use beforward.jp, but I have a bunch of other sites I've used to locate parts. Your second link sends me to what it says, to the rear brake schematic for a Nissan Presage TNU31. I suspect that there is some sort of extension on whatever browser you are using that is tripping up the link. You could try running your browser in safe mode and see if you can get to it that way, as I am running through a VPN with a bunch of adblock and script blocking extensions on my browser and I can get to it just fine. I'll have to check what's up with my extensions at home because Chrome, Firefox, and Edge all gave me the same error, but my work computer (it's Monday now) can access it just fine. I use a VPN and when I used a Japanese IP it would let me browse the site, any other location would not load the website. Thanks for the back up, and for the alternatives! Take care.
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Oct 22, 2018 01:32
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a quick question for the quick question thread, subject matter has been posted in here before: a 2.0 petrol carburetted renault(/simca/matra/talbot) '84 gen 1 espace. I've been doing some work on it, got the cooling system and radiator thermostat back in working condition meaning I can now happily drive it through city traffic without hotwiring the fan, replaced all old and worn consumables like wiper blades, air filter, coolant etc, figured out the semi-automatic choke (it has three modes which can be engaged/disengaged by jabbing the throttle at specific times  ), finally I stared down the alternator so now it cold starts well in addition to keeping running too. It's great. BUTThe final bit of the regular checklist in the Haynes I have postponed is checking/topping up the transmission fluid, because 1) the nut and washer are underneath the car and I can't raise it (I'm working roadside). I guess I could just crawl under there? I didn't yet because 2) the nut and washer are probably ancient and stuck and I'm not going anywhere if I ruin them, Haynes specifically mentions making sure to have spares handy. It has been leaking a drop here and there from the centre of the rear axle and near the transmission itself up front. That would be transmission fluid according to said manual, a renault mechanic also commented on it but said that I shouldn't be too worried about a bit of fluid sweating from a transmission on a car this age (and state of repair) and to just keep an eye on it and top it up when necessary. I'm starting to feel bad about not doing that so: how much is in there and when does it turn into a big deal, if ever, practically speaking. mainly: how do i notice running low? I guess I could always enlist a local shop if it's actually difficult without raising the vehicle and also a big deal. The second thing is that the wiring/electrics are kind of flaky and it's a total mess from start to finish untangling 34 years of 'maintenance'. The right rear light cuts out sometimes, though never the brake light circuit on the same bulb, same for the front daytime running lamp, the interior lighting and instrument panel are also dodgy, the stereo is an amputated mess and the accessory panel has no less than 13 unused taped off connectors dangling near it and 7 unused inputs on the plate.. I understand wiring sucks universally, but if anyone has a good resource towards doing wiring right in cars I'd love to hear it. It's going in storage for 3 months this winter due to classic car tax regulations and I'm planning on making it a winter project. If anyone likes to see a real horror show I have photos, some of it looks like authentic Nebraskan 14 INCH DICK field repair fever dream work Old Binsby fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Oct 22, 2018 |
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Oct 22, 2018 01:59
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Never not post pictures of 80's french shitboxes! Is there no gearbox oil dipstick? Also look around your area for a DIY garage with a lift you can rent, theyre becoming fairly common nowadays. Would make your life easier 
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Oct 22, 2018 07:43
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Old Binsby posted:a quick question <lots and lots of I do my maintenance roadside and changing out transmission fluid is absolutely doable with a jack and good axle standa. Also make sure to undo the filler plug first. You don't want to undo the drain plug, lose all the oil and only then figure out the filler plug is stuck.
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Oct 22, 2018 07:51
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Sagebrush posted:My car (2002 Ford ZX2) is developing all the rattles and clunks that start to happen to 16-year-old cars. I like the car very much and would like to get it back to its original state where going over a pothole didn't go KABANG and driving down San Francisco's washboard streets didn't sound like shaking a tin can full of nails. (minor exaggerations) You need to either get it on a lift or on jackstands (preferably a lift), and get a prybar. See what suspension components are loose by prying suspension stuff and seeing how much it moves. Bad motor mounts can also very much cause clunking/banging noises when hitting potholes, if the rubber is completely gone (this is the case on my current car's rear motor mount). I think lower control arm bushings are a common problem on those (easier to replace the LCA as a unit, you get a new lower ball joint and bushings, and it just bolts right in).
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Oct 22, 2018 07:52
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Grakkus posted:Never not post pictures of 80's french shitboxes! that sounds like a good idea, i'll look into it. No dipstick, the steps to checking are -undo nut/washer - see if there is oil - squeeze a lil' extra in there if there is room - fill until oil comes out of hole you're filling through i'll recheck whether i'm not missing anything super obvious. e. one quick pic, many of these fuses are crammed into the slots with random plastic bits. some with metal wires. this is what the passenger would see at knee level when i first got it. this is the clean and logical part of the wiring  Old Binsby fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Oct 22, 2018 |
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Oct 22, 2018 08:23
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Sagebrush posted:My car (2002 Ford ZX2) is developing all the rattles and clunks that start to happen to 16-year-old cars.... I am not concerned about handling performance (other than, like, a reasonable level of responsiveness for safety) but I do want it to be a more pleasant experience. STR posted:You need to either get it on a lift or on jackstands (preferably a lift), and get a prybar. See what suspension components are loose by prying suspension stuff and seeing how much it moves. I wrote up a post earlier but got sidetracked. This was the gist, however, RockAuto shows both the ball joint and the rearmost FCA bushing as separate, bolt-on units; only the front bushing is pressed into the arm, so if that's good, save some cash and buy the others separate. That car uses a lateral link rear suspension, so check those links and make sure none of them are bent. They're simple adjustable rods, 2 per side running from the center to the rear hubs. Also check your sway bar, if the pivot bushings are rotted or the links are worn/disconnected, your car will lean a hell of a lot more in corners than it would otherwise.
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Oct 22, 2018 09:37
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Long shot, but can anyone recommend a mechanic in Longmont, CO? One car needs at least an AC issue diagnosed and the other is in dire need of a brake job.
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Oct 22, 2018 15:37
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1996 BMW M3 I'm a dumb idiot who waited until the last few weeks to take my car in for Illinois emmisions testing. The week I was going to take it in my car threw a code complaining about air mass mismatch. I cleared the fault but didn't realize that would clear out emmisions data and so my car did not pass due to "incomplete" emmisions data. The next day the fault came back. I've had this same fault pop up before and then it will go away. I've ordered some replacement hoses that connect to the idle control valve and I'll clean out the MAF and ICV as well as replace the spark plugs. But I'm really down to the wire to get this done before end of the month. My question is, if I unplug the MAF and clear the fault will the ECU still collect emissions data or will it cause a failure no matter what? I'm hoping unplugging the MAF will be just enough to get it to pass well I wait for parts to come in and I can finally fix this issue for good.
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Oct 22, 2018 17:03
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If you unplug the maf, it'll just throw a different code.
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Oct 22, 2018 17:53
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