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FatCow posted:Lift is in. This is full extension. Can you swap someone (or the factory) for the slightly smaller arms? I'd hate to ruin those nice crisp concrete edges.
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Aug 24, 2018 06:48
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It's possible, but this design is much stronger looking than the old one. The edges aren't all that crisp, they broke a bunch of when removing the forms. And it'll be epoxied within a month anyway so you won't be able to see it.
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Aug 24, 2018 13:43
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It looks very nice. But as someone who twisted their ankle yesterday, those trenches make me cringe.
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Aug 24, 2018 14:43
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Probably jumping the gun a bit since something could still go wrong and derail the purchase but this is my impending new garage. Insulated and insulated door.  The entire wall with the door is pegboard.   Bonus storage above the garage   So first order of business is going to be to get that firewood outside and then just a good cleaning before we move in. I had this insane idea of a half post lift a while back but the mroe I think about it, I'm never going to have a project car again so I think a QuickJack is going to be sufficient. Thoughts?
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Oct 29, 2018 20:01
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How big is that? Looks about 25x25ish? Is that a floor drain I see in the middle? If so, jealous. Not allowed here.
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Oct 29, 2018 20:05
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slidebite posted:How big is that? Looks about 25x25ish? I have the exact measurements in my car but it's like 24x28 if memory serves and YES floor drain. All that poo poo in there stays and there's some solid shelves there.
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Oct 29, 2018 20:07
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Nice, decent amount of space. 2.5 car I assume? I would try to hook up a faucet in there (if there's not one already) to spray down the car from winter salt. As for the lift, you might look at max jacks as well. It'll get you higher but it's probably a little harder to move around vs. the quick jack. If you leave one side in position permanently though it may be a little better lift and not that big of a deal.
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Oct 29, 2018 21:13
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Hell if you have all that attic space and it's at a good spot just let the lift go through the ceiling.
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Oct 29, 2018 22:42
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^ Yea this. The guy I bought my 283 from had a lift in his garage and he built like a doghouse over the lift into the attic to make it fit. It was a cool setup.
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Oct 30, 2018 00:14
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I think I'm at the point where wheel swaps and oil changes are all I'm in for anymore and the QJ will handle that.
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Oct 30, 2018 03:16
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Aren’t floor drains there so you can watch expensive sockets roll and drop down them while you try to wedge yourself under the car to stop them?
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Oct 30, 2018 04:00
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Ferremit posted:Aren’t floor drains there so you can watch expensive sockets roll and drop down them while you try to wedge yourself under the car to stop them? Uh, it's where you dump used oil.
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Oct 30, 2018 04:01
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Does it go into the sewer or storm drain? I don't get the opposition if it goes into sewer. It's better to wash your car and have the run off treated than doing it in the street / driveway where it will go down the storm drain.
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Oct 30, 2018 04:24
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Floor drain goes to storm drain. Garage is 21.5 x 26.5, my memory was flubbed on that. Spent another afternoon over there taking measurements and taping paint swatches to walls. Pretty sure I have the garage layout planned to my satisfaction. Sadly closing is delayed so all the little issues can be repaired before we take possession.
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Nov 1, 2018 03:49
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Not much happening here.. Got myself a nice steel shelf:  Borrowed a propane heater from a friend, helps during the cold winter:  And I finally moved my almost-free lathe indoors: 
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Dec 17, 2018 18:15
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Holy gently caress I want that lathe. Shame it's got a little cancer on it. Doing a full restoration on it or just tidying it up for use?
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Dec 24, 2018 05:40
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Slung Blade posted:Holy gently caress I want that lathe. Shame it's got a little cancer on it. Doing a full restoration on it or just tidying it up for use? Just tidying it up for now. I think the worn paint looks cool. I haven't had the time to look at it due to work, but there's a new year coming!
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Dec 28, 2018 19:01
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Charles posted:Does it go into the sewer or storm drain? I don't get the opposition if it goes into sewer. It's better to wash your car and have the run off treated than doing it in the street / driveway where it will go down the storm drain. I know I'm late but the chemicals involved aren't good for the biological processes involved in wastewater treatment. It won't matter too much if you're in a big city (dilution and all that). Source: I design wastewater treatment systems for a living.
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Dec 28, 2018 21:55
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For anyone who hasn't got one already - get a good sturdy workshop table. I got a second hand one and it's insane to think that I've managed so long without one. Being able to work on poo poo without having it on the floor and sit at awkward positions for longer amounts of time is just bliss. Also a vise on said table. VVV: I used an old office desk before that had loads of crap stacked on it. It was properly poo poo. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:17 on Dec 29, 2018 |
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Dec 28, 2018 22:55
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MrOnBicycle posted:For anyone who hasn't got one already - get a good sturdy workshop table. I got a second hand one and it's insane to think that I've managed so long without one. Being able to work on poo poo without having it on the floor and sit at awkward positions for longer amounts of time is just bliss. Also a vise on said table. The PO left behind one made out of a door. I think it's neat!
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Dec 29, 2018 02:49
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Troll the Craigslists/gumtree/classifieds for someone getting rid of an old kitchen or something like that- This came from a library remodel and cost me $100 I raised the bench height to 1000mm to suit my prefered working height but that was just a case of making extensions and some new panels for the verticals
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Dec 31, 2018 06:34
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Pulling the chat back from the dead. It is unseasonably warm here right now and I took the opportunity yesterday to start digging out my mess of a garage/workspace. I need to make some changes and need advice: 1) Water. I have one spigot centrally located, but it's at the bottom of a wall in the back of 20" deep shelves. This makes it a pain in the rear end to get to. Right now I have a hose coiled on the floor, but it's also right where I park the BMW. So, to use water, I need to back the car out, crouch/kneel down to turn the water on, then get to it. I know it's a first-world inconvenience, but an inconvenience nonetheless. To fix that, I want to go to some kind of hose reel, but haven't thought any further. 2) Light. Right now I have two 4-bulb flourescent fixtures that I updated to LED several years ago (I don't remember whether I bypassed the ballasts or if they used the ballasts). I don't know if they've dimmed or if I am just looking for more, but I'm looking for more. In addition to that, I have one of the Costco 4' 2-tube fixtures attached to each of two garage door openers. To improve that, I want to either replace the bulbs in the 4-bulb fixtures, or upgrade the fixtures themselves. Also, I'd like to upgrade the lighting attached to the openers. I am fully okay with going with stupid-bright commercial fixtures if I can do so economically. No such thing as too much light. Those are the two biggies, what say you, AI?
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Feb 4, 2019 20:15
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A water hose reel is not something you want to cheap out on considering if it springs a good leak you could be having a bad day. Drop the money and go quality. Reelcraft makes good stuff. I am curious to find out what you do for lighting attached to the openers. Someone told me LEDs for some reason interfere with the signal reception for the opener and mine are lovely CFLs which, are better than nothing, but not great. My old house I had something like 8 x 2 bulb T8 fixtures and I miss it so much. I'll probably go LED if I upgrade this house though. slidebite fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Feb 4, 2019 |
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Feb 4, 2019 20:22
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My opener just has two of the biggest CFLs I could find at Home Depot ~five years ago in it, but I've also got four of the Costco twin-LED-tube shop lights hung around the place. I've been cleaning / reorganizing my garage too. Wife gave me a new toolbox for Christmas (which I still need to start putting actual tools into!), and I was able to repurpose some shelving units into the garage. I think once I finish the current batch of garage projects / cleanup, the next one will be a new workbench. The one I have is a Craftsman made from relatively thin steel, and if I ever need to really get after something attached to it, it doesn't take much leverage for the bench to start moving instead of the work.
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Feb 4, 2019 20:39
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What kind of lifts are you guys running? I'm getting more and more serious about getting some second hand lift and save me the balancing act of putting a modern car on jack stands. Post lifts are ruled out since the ceiling isn't high enough. I'm leaving towards the one unit scissor lifts like this one. They seem to be within budget, decent on space, safe etc. The negative is that they block part of the central parts of the underside which can make exhaust jobs etc more annoying. I'm thinking that I could just lower the car down on jack stands for that though. 90% of jobs are either under the engine or around the wheel/suspension areas. Since I insist on doing maintenance myself I figure it would save me plenty of time and crawling around in the long run. I got 2 cars now, and when my brothers decide to get cars I'll probably help them as well. Not to mention future projects. Enough justification for a toy from my part, anyone got real life experience and advice?
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Feb 5, 2019 19:51
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My ceilings are too low for a real lift so right now I'm looking at the 5k version of https://www.quickjack.com/ Mechanic friend has one and he loves it.
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Feb 5, 2019 23:33
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NitroSpazzz posted:My ceilings are too low for a real lift so right now I'm looking at the 5k version of https://www.quickjack.com/ Mechanic friend has one and he loves it. I got the 7000SLX and had some leakage issues when I was first getting it all setup. Could have been user error on the setup but when I reached out to the company they didn't put any effort into troubleshooting and just shipped me a new power unit (as it turns out the customer rep was on their last week so maybe that had something to do with it). The power unit was drop shipped from their manufacturer and was poorly packaged which caused damage in transit meaning I had to get another power unit shipped to me. Which also meant I had to package up and send back 2 units. Ignoring that hassle the unit has worked nicely for me. Was a great fit for me given how often I do car stuff vs. installing a post type lift. And I find it easier to work with vs. a jackstand setup.
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Feb 6, 2019 00:39
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I have the 5000slx and quite like it. It's perfect for the 996. Biggest issues I have with it are the hoses are cheap, not as flexible as I would like and they use a dog's breakfast mix of JIC and NPT threads. NPT has no business on an end user assembled hydraulic system because by definition they need sealing tape (a no-no in hydraulics) and can easily leak. I'm going to build up some proper spaghetti hoses out of some quality hose at work for mine. It's a little heavier than I would like and yes, it's portable, but definitely clunky and not light. It would have been nice if it made more use of aluminum if possible. That said, don't get me wrong, I quite like it.
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Feb 6, 2019 01:54
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slidebite posted:I have the 5000slx and quite like it. It's perfect for the 996. Biggest issues I have with it are the hoses are cheap, not as flexible as I would like and they use a dog's breakfast mix of JIC and NPT threads. NPT has no business on an end user assembled hydraulic system because by definition they need sealing tape (a no-no in hydraulics) and can easily leak. I'm going to build up some proper spaghetti hoses out of some quality hose at work for mine. It's a little heavier than I would like and yes, it's portable, but definitely clunky and not light. It would have been nice if it made more use of aluminum if possible. If it wasn't for your potential liability I would suggest starting up a small side business selling upgraded hoses and fittings for the quickjack. If you'd be willing to type up a how to on what to buy and how it would need to be put together, if making these hoses wouldn't require hundreds of dollars in tools anyway, that would be awesome.
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Feb 6, 2019 04:51
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Oh no, it would be very simple. Any hose shop that makes hydraulic hoses would almost certainly be able to do it from stock with literally 15 minutes of work and you'd have the ability to make them almost any length you want... so you could in theory have the powerpak on the completely opposite end of the shop if you had long enough hoses. Biggest issue, going from memory, is the parts that are NPT are, well, always going to be NPT so you really can't get away from it now since that's how they build them. You are stuck either using NPT fittings or adapters now. It's really not the end of the world to be fair, it's just a pitty. NPT is inferior by almost any metric. Since it seals on the threads you have to use sealant or tape which is not good on a hydraulic system because if you get any bits on the oil it doesn't play well with the valving or pumps. Now, in all reality it's not a super precision servo system so short of doing something really dumb you're probably not going to ruin it, but it's just a poor design and far more prone to installation problems and leaks. It wouldn't have even cost them more since in industry JIC and NPT threads literally cost the same for most things. That said, the supplied hoses are hardwall springy pieces of poo poo aren't helping matters and probably my biggest pet peeve. Since there are quick disconnects the hoses will often have residual pressure in them which doesn't really help either. You realize you're giving me a kick in the rear end to actually get this done right and see how much of a difference it makes? LOL.
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Feb 6, 2019 06:14
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Problem with the Quick Jack system is that it's damned expensive here. The 5000SLX costs almost $2500, which is as much as those 2 unit scissor lifts / service lifts can cost.
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Feb 6, 2019 |
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Feb 6, 2019 08:50
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slidebite - don't mind me just over here with the thread bookmarked and judging your actions  MrOnBicycle posted:Problem with the Quick Jack system is that it's damned expensive here. The 5000SLX costs almost $2500, which is as much as those 2 unit scissor lifts / service lifts can cost.
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Feb 6, 2019 18:55
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tangy yet delightful posted:Assuming you're in the land down under? Yeah the pricing could certainly be a valid reason to go scissor/service over the quickjack.  US products are usually at a pretty large premium. Especially "Made in USA" stuff and smaller companies like for the Quick Jack.
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Feb 6, 2019 23:44
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slidebite posted:Oh no, it would be very simple. Any hose shop that makes hydraulic hoses would almost certainly be able to do it from stock with literally 15 minutes of work and you'd have the ability to make them almost any length you want... so you could in theory have the powerpak on the completely opposite end of the shop if you had long enough hoses.
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Feb 7, 2019 22:12
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Any recommendations for garage flooring? I'm looking at epoxy and polyurea solutions for the brand new house I'm closing on next month, but I'm open to other options.
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Feb 8, 2019 05:23
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Dad put down rustoleum epoxyshield in both his garages a few years ago and it's held up well. Biggest part seems to be making sure your prep is good and following the directions about cure/set time. I meant to do it at this place before we moved in but couldn't find the time/funds.
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Feb 8, 2019 11:27
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My garage is cold as poo poo so I never go in it in winter and still have to keep a heater on so the beer/meat fridge/freezer doesn't stop working. I'm going to insulate the roof cavity, should I do the floor (concrete) or walls (block/cavity/brick) next? If I do the floor it'll be 25mm board insulation then 3/4" OSB. The walls would be battens then either plasterboard or OSB, either way I paint them white and screw tools and French cleats everywhere.
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Feb 8, 2019 12:44
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cakesmith handyman posted:My garage is cold as poo poo so I never go in it in winter and still have to keep a heater on so the beer/meat fridge/freezer doesn't stop working. I'm going to insulate the roof cavity, should I do the floor (concrete) or walls (block/cavity/brick) next? If I do the floor it'll be 25mm board insulation then 3/4" OSB. The walls would be battens then either plasterboard or OSB, either way I paint them white and screw tools and French cleats everywhere. Walls, for sure.
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Feb 8, 2019 12:48
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This is my garage, no cars allowed:  Always reorganizing it. Right now it's terribly dirty because I got a milling machine packed full of grease (these look like grease fittings, lets fill it up with grease instead of way oil x 50 years) and I'm gonna need to mop the floors with kerosene come spring or something...
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Feb 8, 2019 13:34
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Wrar posted:Any recommendations for garage flooring? I'm looking at epoxy and polyurea solutions for the brand new house I'm closing on next month, but I'm open to other options. I put down some epoxy paint just because I got it for free. I think based on how the concrete floors at work look, that I should have used whatever they used instead, some kind of binder or oil I think that impregnated the concrete. Looks real good, cleans up good, more durable than the paint which chips.
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Feb 8, 2019 13:36
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