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Hauki posted:and down the rabbit hole we go 
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Oct 23, 2018 23:12
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Happiness Commando posted:My perennial advice for sport gear is: Good advice. Here is my personal recommendation though. 2 six packs of BD Posiwires with a 20-25% off coupon (rarely do you need more than 12 on a 30-35M pitch) 70M rope for CO, I prefer dry as they feed better, fuzz up slower, I use my ropes for all kinds of stuff so I go with BI-Pattern. 2 small skinny lockers for cleaning, 1 spare D locker PAS is good (not a daisy chain, that is for aid climbing) Assuming you have harness and a belay device you are good to go. Always lower, never rap (especially at Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek, Devils Head, Shelf Road, etc). Donate $100 a year to the boulder climbing community for the hard wear maintenance.
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Oct 24, 2018 04:13
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Why lower in those areas? I agree with spwrozek on gear, but would add anchor materials unless the place you are climbing has cold shuts or fixed anchors. Also take a class, way more important than nerding out over which draws are the best.
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Oct 24, 2018 04:26
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PAS are great pieces of gear that you'll perpetually never use as you go deeper down the sport climbing rabbit hole.
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Oct 24, 2018 04:27
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Why lower in those areas? At least in Boulder Canyon, it’s a mix of people waiting, some anchors needing replacement (for out of the way less popular areas like BW slab), but it’s not that big a deal in BoCan. I can only think of a handful of places in the canyon I wouldn’t rap from, and I’m pretty confident those anchor systems have been replaced as of last year. It’s rare to find anything you’d only rappel from in Boulder Canyon. Maybe front range, but most of the canyon you can walk or be lowered faster. Really, just boulder for maximum slapping rocks and tearing skin factor. 
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Oct 24, 2018 04:56
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I guess I wouldn't lower from anchors I wouldn't rap from  I guess we have more issues with anchors needing replacement due to lowering than crowds or inherently bad bolting. E: recently anchors here are glue ins or bolts and hangers, so lowering requires untying and retying anyways.
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Oct 24, 2018 06:32
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crazycello posted:PAS are great pieces of gear that you'll perpetually never use as you go deeper down the sport climbing rabbit hole. I never use it for trading either. I just clove into anchors with my rope. I mean it takes up valuable space on my harness and I'd rather rack another cam.That being said I like to for developing/cleaning routes. Nice way to extend a rappel or lowering down between two lines. Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Oct 24, 2018 |
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Oct 24, 2018 09:14
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If all the anchor has are rap rings, you shouldn't be lowering off of those. That being said, buying cold shuts or quick links and connecting those to anchors with rap rings is an excellent practice. Far, far more climbers have died in rappelling-related accidents than will ever die due to worn hardware used for lowering. fake edit: Lowering also makes cleaning an overhung route way easier. 
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Oct 24, 2018 19:15
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Why lower in those areas? There are too many people so it is faster and safety to never go off belay. The hardware is well maintained, especially where he will be climbing. crazycello posted:PAS are great pieces of gear that you'll perpetually never use as you go deeper down the sport climbing rabbit hole. Yeah I mean I just clip to a draw to clean myself but I don't know if I would teach a beginner that method. They are great for working routes, especially overhung. I will sick clip bolt to bolt if needed. Helpful there. meowmeowmeowmeow posted:I guess I wouldn't lower from anchors I wouldn't rap from Leave rope in draws, clip to anchor, bight pushed through anchor, figure 8 on bight, clip to belay loop, untie, pull tail through anchor, belayer takes, pull draws and lower. Always on belay and super fast.
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Oct 24, 2018 19:51
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Yeah that's a great way to do it if lowering on rings is accepted in your area.
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Oct 24, 2018 20:32
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[quote="runchild" post="489142143"] PAS - either a Sorry! I was thinking specifically of the Metolius PAS, I didn't realize that it was explicitly called that. Please only use gear rated to save your rear end if you fall on it. Also don't fall on a PAS, they don't stretch.
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Oct 24, 2018 20:37
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spwrozek posted:Always lower, never rap (especially at Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek, Devils Head, Shelf Road, etc). Donate $100 a year to the boulder climbing community for the hard wear maintenance. Do you guys not set up your own anchors using 2 opposing draws? Standard procedure at Rumney is to clip anchor draws at the lower-off and to use these for TR and subsequent leads until the last climber who cleans the anchor and runs the rope though the fixed proteciton.
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Oct 24, 2018 22:34
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Suicide Watch posted:Do you guys not set up your own anchors using 2 opposing draws? Standard procedure at Rumney is to clip anchor draws at the lower-off and to use these for TR and subsequent leads until the last climber who cleans the anchor and runs the rope though the fixed proteciton. If you're top roping a sport route in the UK it's common to have the rope threaded through the ring or whatever on the anchor, but you stick a short quickdraw through one of the anchor chains or bolts and clip that to the rope so that it is held up off the fixed gear and reduces wear and tear. Similar thing I suppose.
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Oct 24, 2018 22:45
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Endjinneer posted:If you're top roping a sport route in the UK it's common to have the rope threaded through the ring or whatever on the anchor, but you stick a short quickdraw through one of the anchor chains or bolts and clip that to the rope so that it is held up off the fixed gear and reduces wear and tear. Similar thing I suppose. Weird. Any sort of top roping through the fixed gear where I am will raise eyebrows.
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Oct 24, 2018 23:24
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Suicide Watch posted:Do you guys not set up your own anchors using 2 opposing draws? Standard procedure at Rumney is to clip anchor draws at the lower-off and to use these for TR and subsequent leads until the last climber who cleans the anchor and runs the rope though the fixed proteciton. Gear still gets worn down with lowering the last party, thus the preference to rap in some older areas. It's generally now well recognized that lowering is much safer and a bit of extra gear maintenance is worth fewer deaths in rappelling accidents.
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Oct 24, 2018 23:27
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Also you can get Climbtech mussies for like $6 an anchor.
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Oct 25, 2018 01:34
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Suicide Watch posted:Do you guys not set up your own anchors using 2 opposing draws? Standard procedure at Rumney is to clip anchor draws at the lower-off and to use these for TR and subsequent leads until the last climber who cleans the anchor and runs the rope though the fixed proteciton. Top rope off your own gear, then lower the last person once you clean the anchor. crazycello posted:Weird. Any sort of top roping through the fixed gear where I am will raise eyebrows. It looks weird but you are only wearing on the QD and not the fixed gear really. tortilla_chip posted:Also you can get Climbtech mussies for like $6 an anchor. These are the way to go at any really popular area (or steel biners but they will get stolen). Makes cleaning super fast and easy.
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Oct 25, 2018 02:17
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Endjinneer posted:If you're top roping a sport route in the UK it's common to have the rope threaded through the ring or whatever on the anchor, but you stick a short quickdraw through one of the anchor chains or bolts and clip that to the rope so that it is held up off the fixed gear and reduces wear and tear. Similar thing I suppose. It's great way of setting up a foolproof TR anchor for a beginner whom you wouldn't trust with retying the rope.
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Oct 25, 2018 13:39
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In the UK, no one abs (rappells) down a sport route with an insitu anchor point. We even call anchors 'lower offs'. Is it really normal to abseil of anchors to save wear on them in the USA?
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Oct 26, 2018 18:05
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Until fairly recently it was considerd proper climbing etiquette to do so in tons of places in the US. Culture here is coming around to lowering off being safer/better though pretty quickly these days.
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Oct 26, 2018 19:32
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Phone posting. Can these be fixed up? They’re not that old. https://m.imgur.com/gallery/9Eg75N5
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Oct 27, 2018 03:25
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cheese eats mouse posted:Phone posting. Can these be fixed up? They’re not that old. I can't get that link to work on my phone.
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Oct 27, 2018 03:33
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armorer posted:I can't get that link to work on my phone. Here we go. Reading reviews, this about their life. What's a good shoe for people with longer second toes? These have been a good entry, but I'm ready for something better. 
cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Oct 27, 2018 |
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Oct 27, 2018 13:47
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Can you take a picture from the bottom side including the front of the toe? From this picture it looks like you blew through the rand kinda high up, without actually wearing down the front of the sole all that much. It's kind of odd looking.
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Oct 27, 2018 14:16
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Out of curiosity, do you notice yourself dragging your toe as you move your feet up? That'll tear through the rand in no time, regardless of the shoe you get.
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Oct 27, 2018 15:41
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Baronash posted:Out of curiosity, do you notice yourself dragging your toe as you move your feet up? That'll tear through the rand in no time, regardless of the shoe you get. I guess this is a good time to solicit feedback. I've been stuck in a fear zone for about a month now and I noticed I drag a bit more when I'm scared, esp after watching this video. https://www.instagram.com/p/BpDtCrnBAcg/
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Oct 27, 2018 15:54
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cheese eats mouse posted:I guess this is a good time to solicit feedback. I've been stuck in a fear zone for about a month now and I noticed I drag a bit more when I'm scared, esp after watching this video. Decide what your route will be before you get on the climb - you spend like half the video switching your feet back and forth. If you plan out your movements before you start, you'll have a lot less wasted energy. Also try to be more accurate/controlled with your foot placement. Look at where you want to place your foot and place it there in a controlled manner. Focus on putting your big toe on the center of the foothold
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Oct 27, 2018 17:11
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Hullo. Going to climb in Railay/Tonsai next week for up to a month. I was planning to take my own harness, shoes, chalk and belay with a few carabiniers. Should I look at getting anything else or hire when I get there? Never owned my own rope or quickdraws, and was planning to do a couple of paid tours then climb with people I meet when I learn local etiquette. For background, I'm very familiar with belaying, knots and safety (I ran kid's summer camp ropes course for 4 summers) but I've only bouldered in the last 4 or so years and I've never done my own incremental route clipping. Am I being hopelessly naive? I boulder up to around V6, but know how that translates to rope climbing.
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Oct 27, 2018 19:35
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Xyven posted:Decide what your route will be before you get on the climb - you spend like half the video switching your feet back and forth. If you plan out your movements before you start, you'll have a lot less wasted energy. To add to this you need to try plant your feet somewhere that isnt on the wall. There's a game that can help with getting this down called sticky hands and sticky toes. Decide where you want to place your foot, place it, then dont move it until your next move. You definitely need to try and stand up more instead of hanging low. You could have reached the next hold towards the end if you had just simply stood up and went for it.
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Oct 27, 2018 20:33
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cheese eats mouse posted:Here we go. Reading reviews, this about their life. What's a good shoe for people with longer second toes? These have been a good entry, but I'm ready for something better. You can fix it but you really shouldn't put holes in your toes. Also I wouldn't personally fix them. If you are mostly gym climbing I really like tenaya's gym shoe (the Tanta I think). They are about $90 and work pretty well. I can lead 12b in them and and Boulder V7. I personally don't think good shoes help besides being sloppy in the gym. Then I go outside in some vapors or muiras and it is amazing. Plus I can get them resoled 2 times for another $70 and I have long lasting shoes for $160. That is what a 'good' shoe costs these days.
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Oct 28, 2018 17:23
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For the record I walk on my toes. Always have been. Im a weird idiopathic toe walker and have been trying to address it slowly. Maybe I’ll try taking off my shoes between climbs/moving to new problems. My friend likes to bounce around the gym. I’ll work on my footwork more and try staying sticky. Prob a combo of poor form and the way I walk putting extra strain on the toes
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Oct 28, 2018 18:41
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cheese eats mouse posted:For the record I walk on my toes. Always have been. Im a weird idiopathic toe walker and have been trying to address it slowly. Maybe I’ll try taking off my shoes between climbs/moving to new problems. My friend likes to bounce around the gym. That wear pattern has nothing to do with how you walk, it's from the tip of your shoe rubbing against the wall. The next time you go to the gym, spend 10 minutes watching people in rental shoes climb. Often, when they go to a foothold, they'll put their foot against the wall a few inches above the hold, look away, and let their foot 'slide' down the wall until it lands on the foothold. Nobody does it on purpose, but it's very common. A simple way to break that habit is to keep an eye on your feet when you move them - watch them all the way to the hold, don't look away until the leg is holding some of your weight and you're ready to move a different limb. Spend 15-20 minutes on slow, controlled movement each time you climb.
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Oct 29, 2018 04:04
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https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-neutrino-quickpack is this a good deal? for sport mostly, maybe trad later. ~8.74 each. seems to be the best price i've come across in a while.
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Oct 30, 2018 04:04
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Motherfucker! https://www.instagram.com/climbterrafirma/?hl=en The fire marshal showed up to a comp and closed down the gym. Now they are "looking for a new location." 
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Oct 30, 2018 20:03
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how come?
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Oct 31, 2018 14:23
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jiggerypokery posted:how come? No details as of right now. I'm pretty bummed about it. I think I sad-ate my way through the kind of meal that would kill a lesser man. I told my wife, "Bad day today. We're getting tacos." She knows not to ask questions when tacos are involved.
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Oct 31, 2018 14:58
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Tactical Lesbian posted:https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-neutrino-quickpack Active Junky will give you 7% cash back on backcountry right now to make them an even better deal.
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Oct 31, 2018 15:36
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Moosejaw is giving 30% store bucks back and I'm really close to getting the Mammut Infinity Dry and using the like $80 store credit to finishing up the locking biners and slings and poo poo I need to finish my sport climbing rack. This is, like, a totally good idea right? :| edit: awwh gently caress the 30% seems to be gone ShaneB fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 16:31
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update: bought em took a natural & fixed anchors class last weekend. now i just need to learn how to lead and then i can get into outdoor sport! 
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Oct 31, 2018 17:21
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Tactical Lesbian posted:https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-neutrino-quickpack They will be fine but I hate draws without key lock or a nose guard on them. Nose hooking sucks.
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Oct 31, 2018 21:08
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