|
Cannon_Fodder posted:Motherfucker! tbh if they got closed down by the fire marshal its either a repeated violation or a massive over capacity situation. It sucks that it happened to a climbing gym, but space capacity limits are there for a reason and not that hard to follow.
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 03:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:17 |
|
|
meowmeowmeowmeow posted:tbh if they got closed down by the fire marshal its either a repeated violation or a massive over capacity situation. It sucks that it happened to a climbing gym, but space capacity limits are there for a reason and not that hard to follow. Terra Firma Website posted:We're currently closed. It claims that there's a zoning issue as well. Who knows... I just wish I could go climbing at a well organized bouldering gym, rather than having to use the afterthought boundering at the top rope ones.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 20:35
|
|
|
I don’t know why Momentum opened a top rope and a second bouldering gym here in Houston but I’m sure glad they did
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2018 20:55
|
|
|
I wouldn't have expected flat, boring Houston as the place for climbing gyms, but I appreciate that the bouldering one is next to downtown so I can conveniently blow off work and climb instead.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 18:19
|
|
|
Pedersen enjoys money.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 19:09
|
|
|
AngusPodgorny posted:I wouldn't have expected flat, boring Houston as the place for climbing gyms, but I appreciate that the bouldering one is next to downtown so I can conveniently blow off work and climb instead. Being right around the corner from my apartment is hella nice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 19:23
|
|
|
Gym climbing is fun
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 20:28
|
|
|
Got another sport climbing trip coming up in January. I wonder if we should start a little goon training program.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 23:29
|
|
|
jiggerypokery posted:Got another sport climbing trip coming up in January. I wonder if we should start a little goon training program. i'd be down. i need to de-goon a bit
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2018 23:58
|
|
|
My plan is to do loosely themed weeks with a rest/tapering week before the trip. Join in if you like! Each week is themed. Week 1; Endurance Week 2; Strength/Power Week 3; Strength/Power Week 4; Power Endurance Week 5; Power Endurance Week 6; Strength/Power Week 7; Strength/Power Week 8; Endurance Week 9; Power Endurance Week 10; Rest I'll be hang boarding twice a week too, on the following program. https://www.climbing.com/skills/training-hangboard-ladders-for-finger-strength/ Different grips though, open hand, three finger drag, slopes. It's week 1 now, so tomorrow (Tuesday) I'm going to be doing endurance. This means time on the wall. I'll warm up then aim to do 10 mins of continuous easy climbing round some circuits, resting as much as needed on the wall. 20 mins rest, then repeat for three sets. I'll do the same on Thursday.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2018 23:26
|
|
|
I've done a similar endurance/power/power endurance themed plans before and had more luck with larger blocks and less back and forth. Like two month of endurance, a month of power, a month of power endurance, two weeks tapering deload, comp season with maintenance during the season. We always hit endurance harder and longer as your ability to put in work determines how effective the rest of your training is. Endurance usually included some running/cardio with stops for calasthenics in addition to climbing endurance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2018 01:47
|
|
|
decided i want to stop spinning a hold every other week and i figure i’m going to drop about 20lbs to accomplish that. other than “take it easy and don’t get hurt”, is there anything else i should know edit: i really only do indoor bouldering and no other climbing
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2018 05:41
|
|
|
meowmeowmeowmeow posted:
This is 18 weeks and would probably work better if I had that kind of time but I have 10 till my trip. I'll still target all 4 energy systems each week, a bouldering session in endurance week, for example, it just won't be the emphasis.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2018 08:50
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:decided i want to stop spinning a hold every other week and i figure i’m going to drop about 20lbs to accomplish that. other than “take it easy and don’t get hurt”, is there anything else i sthehould know Dunno where you’re starting from so I’ll take it from the top. I dropped 40lbs a couple years ago and it was hugely beneficial for my climbing. Weight loss happens in the kitchen, not the gym. Exercise helps, and is important for general fitness/making your new reduced fat body look better, but if you aren’t paying attention to food it’s easy to make up for the calories you burned without realizing it. CICO (calories in, calorie out) is best IMO, because anything other than counting calories only works if it results in caloric deficit anyways. Estimate your daily calorie expenditure (there are lots of calculators for this online, compare a few) and eat less than that (roughly 500 less a day for a pound a week). That’s all there is to it! I didn’t have too much trouble staying under, but your mileage may vary - some folks have a really hard time adjusting their eating habits, or dealing with feeling hungry. Personally the hard part was figuring out numbers when they weren’t just listed on a package/menu. Even if you know the ingredients it’s still a hassle. Apps like MyFitnessPal are good but be wary of their estimates for some things- anybody can put some bullshit number in. I made my own spreadsheets but I’m weird so don’t think you have to do that. If you don’t have a kitchen scale already, get one. There’s plenty more good info in YLLS and elsewhere. Best of luck!
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2018 15:59
|
|
|
Yeah I've been about 190 the majority of my adult life, and for a brief period got down to about 170. I remember that feeling drastically different. Then I slowly crept back up to 190ish and stay here all the time. Now that I'm climbing, this weight is feeling like a curse... I really want to get back down to moderately lean so I'm not hauling these extra lbs up a wall. And runchild is right, just count the drat calories and get a drat scale. When I was busting my rear end I essentially ate no carbs during the week, and from Friday night to Sunday morning would eat whatever I wanted. It worked great and was a totally necessary mental break.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2018 16:08
|
|
|
The absolute most important thing to know about weight loss is that any "diet" that you can't stick to every day for the rest of your life is worthless. Don't try to make multiple of drastic changes all at once, you're bound to relapse. Incrementally introduce small changes in your diet and lifestyle. Once they become comfortable, make further changes, and so on. This approach is way, way more important than the logistical details of your diet and exercise.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2018 18:52
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:decided i want to stop spinning a hold every other week and i figure i’m going to drop about 20lbs to accomplish that. other than “take it easy and don’t get hurt”, is there anything else i should know If you aren't doing yoga start. Your balance and coordination will improve and that will help you stay controlled in your movements and not need to 'pound' holds as much. For me once I made the choice to get better at climbing I was able to look at every beer, pizza and cheeseburger and think, is that worth hauling up the wall for the next week? Sometimes the answer is hell yes, other times I get a slice, salad and a water instead of two slices and a beer. I have had better luck with small changes I can do everyday rather than big changes that feel like a massive effort.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 00:11
|
|
|
Sound_man posted:If you aren't doing yoga start. Your balance and coordination will improve and that will help you stay controlled in your movements and not need to 'pound' holds as much. our gym has like five or six yoga classes a day and i've never actually done yoga for realsies but i keep meaning to check out some classes since they're included in the membership
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 02:23
|
|
|
oh yeah, sorry i should've specified - ive lost and gained weight plenty of times and am pretty good at it at this point - i was just wondering more like how it felt for people, if it really sapped their energy/recovery between sessions, if 20lbs is a noticeable on the wall, stuff like that. thats good info, thanksSound_man posted:If you aren't doing yoga start. Your balance and coordination will improve and that will help you stay controlled in your movements and not need to 'pound' holds as much. its mostly just the edges of wide foodholds and such, or something i dyno off of Verviticus fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Nov 7, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 04:24
|
|
|
I train heavy and send light. If you're not at an unhealthy BMI then you're probably fine. It's more important to build strong tendons and muscles than worrying about weight.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 07:38
|
|
|
For what it's worth most professional climbers have a BMI from ~20-22, so you certainly want to be thin but not starving or anything. It's probably a bit inverse proportional to height, so the taller you are the lower you'd want to be since your tendons are only going to support so much, and the shorter you are the more muscle you're going to need to do deep lock-offs and other poo poo to get more reach. For example Adam Ondra's BMI is 19.9 at 6'1" and Alex Puccio's is 21.4 at 5'2".
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 13:35
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:For what it's worth most professional climbers have a BMI from ~20-22, so you certainly want to be thin but not starving or anything. It's probably a bit inverse proportional to height, so the taller you are the lower you'd want to be since your tendons are only going to support so much, and the shorter you are the more muscle you're going to need to do deep lock-offs and other poo poo to get more reach. For example Adam Ondra's BMI is 19.9 at 6'1" and Alex Puccio's is 21.4 at 5'2". Hm but you can also lose ROM from too much muscle. Being a shorter person (5'7), I can tell you I always feel stronger when I strength train during the off season and then taper a lot going into climbing season
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 15:45
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:oh yeah, sorry i should've specified - ive lost and gained weight plenty of times and am pretty good at it at this point - i was just wondering more like how it felt for people, if it really sapped their energy/recovery between sessions, if 20lbs is a noticeable on the wall, stuff like that. thats good info, thanks Ah, well I can say that 40lbs definitely made a major difference for me. And I didn’t have energy/recovery issues but I never felt like I was starving myself or anything. Can’t speak to the effect of low carbs, I ate plenty of those. Maybe factor in a snack if you’re worried about the timing between climbing and meals or if you do have any issues.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 17:42
|
|
|
I lost about 40lbs before I did my first V4, so for me losing weight was the thing that caused the biggest jump in my climbing performance. I feel a lot stronger in proportion to my weight, I don't get tired/overheated as easily, and my fingers don't hurt so much on crimpy holds.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 18:09
|
|
|
Ubiquitus posted:Hm but you can also lose ROM from too much muscle. This is never explained in satisfactory detail.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 18:53
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:oh yeah, sorry i should've specified - ive lost and gained weight plenty of times and am pretty good at it at this point - i was just wondering more like how it felt for people, if it really sapped their energy/recovery between sessions, if 20lbs is a noticeable on the wall, stuff like that. thats good info, thanks I'd definitely be cautious of exercise intensity while you're trying to lose significant weight, but the energy/recovery deficit can also be mitigated through adequate protein intake (from what I've read, I wouldn't consider myself an authority on nutrition/diet by any means!). My understanding is that you want to consume ~0.7-0.9g protein per lb, so if you weigh 200 lbs then aim for ~160g protein. Here's some reading on the subject if interested: https://bayesianbodybuilding.com/the-myth-of-1glb-optimal-protein-intake-for-bodybuilders/ If you're wondering whether 20 lbs is noticeable on the wall - absolutely. If you've ever experimented with climbing with a weight vest, it becomes apparent pretty quickly that any additional weight makes a difference. (Note: I wouldn't recommend actually trying this experiment unless you're fairly experienced and at a healthy weight already; added weight means more impact on your fingers while climbing and on your body while falling.) FWIW, I've been on a loose 'intermittent fasting' diet for the past year or so, and I'm currently at my lowest weight I've been at since I started weighing myself regularly ~5 years ago. The most important aspect, as others have mentioned, is that this is something that's actually easy and enjoyable for me to adhere to on a daily basis. In essence, the only change to my diet has been that I no longer eat breakfast. This has been relatively easy -- this was my default diet for many years until I started consciously forcing myself to eat breakfast b/c "most important meal" etc etc. Now that I've cut it out, I find it easier to eat lunches and dinners that meet my daily caloric targets and are still satisfying/don't feel restricted. Of course I have the occasional cheat day where I'll eat breakfast, largely for social reasons, but I have zero urge to go back to eating breakfast every day at this point. I think if I stay the course I can probably lose a little more weight without much effort, which would put me right above a 21 BMI. I have a feeling that going any lower than that would require more significant effort/sacrifice than I'm willing to put in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2018 19:00
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:For what it's worth most professional climbers have a BMI from ~20-22, so you certainly want to be thin but not starving or anything. It's probably a bit inverse proportional to height, so the taller you are the lower you'd want to be since your tendons are only going to support so much, and the shorter you are the more muscle you're going to need to do deep lock-offs and other poo poo to get more reach. For example Adam Ondra's BMI is 19.9 at 6'1" and Alex Puccio's is 21.4 at 5'2". Sharks Eat Bear posted:I'd definitely be cautious of exercise intensity while you're trying to lose significant weight, but the energy/recovery deficit can also be mitigated through adequate protein intake (from what I've read, I wouldn't consider myself an authority on nutrition/diet by any means!). My understanding is that you want to consume ~0.7-0.9g protein per lb, so if you weigh 200 lbs then aim for ~160g protein. Here's some reading on the subject if interested: https://bayesianbodybuilding.com/the-myth-of-1glb-optimal-protein-intake-for-bodybuilders/ quote:If you're wondering whether 20 lbs is noticeable on the wall - absolutely. If you've ever experimented with climbing with a weight vest, it becomes apparent pretty quickly that any additional weight makes a difference. (Note: I wouldn't recommend actually trying this experiment unless you're fairly experienced and at a healthy weight already; added weight means more impact on your fingers while climbing and on your body while falling.) Tippecanoe posted:I lost about 40lbs before I did my first V4, so for me losing weight was the thing that caused the biggest jump in my climbing performance. I feel a lot stronger in proportion to my weight, I don't get tired/overheated as easily, and my fingers don't hurt so much on crimpy holds.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 01:40
|
|
|
I was 5'7" and up to 200 lbs, now I'm a little over 150 lbs (same height). I wasn't weak before and could do a few pull-ups, but they're definitely much easier now and so is climbing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 01:47
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:i havent, A: because i dont have access and B: im pretty sure at some point my fingers would just rip off. i wonder if the gym has one lying around.. yeah honestly i wouldn't recommend climbing with a weight vest regardless of your ability or weight; i don't think it's really worth the risk or a good use of training time. just meant it as an illustrative point -- climbing with an extra 20 lbs is very, very noticeable
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 04:25
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:i havent, A: because i dont have access and B: im pretty sure at some point my fingers would just rip off. i wonder if the gym has one lying around.. Do not do this. Your fingers are undergoing enough stress and getting stronger; do not destroy all of your tendons and your knees.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 05:26
|
|
|
I don’t think you should train with a weight vest BUT if there happens to be one in the gym putting it on for a quick easy route is quite the experience. Do it after you lose the weight and it’s like “holy poo poo, was I really hauling all this up the wall?!?” I went from 220 to 180 (I’m 6'0"). Prior to that I had been stuck at a bit of a plateau but afterwards I was able to do my first V5.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 16:29
|
|
|
Being lighter is definitely better for climbing, but getting lighter is definitely worse for training and it's a poor trade off. A good training session > drilling bad, lazy habits because your hungry.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 17:41
|
|
|
jiggerypokery posted:Being lighter is definitely better for climbing, but getting lighter is definitely worse for training and it's a poor trade off. A good training session > drilling bad, lazy habits because your hungry. Not sure this is an either or situation.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 17:42
|
|
|
jiggerypokery posted:Being lighter is definitely better for climbing, but getting lighter is definitely worse for training and it's a poor trade off. A good training session > drilling bad, lazy habits because your hungry. How do you come to the conclusion that being lighter is worse for training? You should train at the weight you plan on climbing, otherwise you have to get readjusted to your new level of strength constantly. The fact that weight can be added via things like training vests, and I have no idea where you're going with that. Just because you're hungry doesn't mean your brain turns to mush when climbing
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 17:46
|
|
|
I've been cutting lately in an unhealthy fashion, running anywhere from a 300 to 1200 calorie deficit every day. I wasn't climbing on the nearly fasting days though. My pump has gotten so loving fragile. Before I could be getting tired and still put in another 30-45 minutes of effortfull climbing. Now, as soon as I feel it in my forearms I need to drop 2-3 grades and be done in 2-3 routes or I'll just peel off in the middle of a 10b that I have sailed up many times before. I dropped 10+ pounds though, and I'm wondering how I will feel and train when I'm getting plenty of calories. I'm so excited to go back to eating normally in a few days.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 18:50
|
|
|
Ubiquitus posted:How do you come to the conclusion that being lighter is worse for training? It is very difficult to build strength while you're cutting weight. No comment on the brain stuff. I'm almost always 5-7lbs heavier while I'm training compared to when I'm on a climbing trip.
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 19:11
|
|
|
Happiness Commando posted:I've been cutting lately in an unhealthy fashion, running anywhere from a 300 to 1200 calorie deficit every day. I wasn't climbing on the nearly fasting days though. This doesn't sound real healthy. Why are you pursuing this so aggressively?
|
|
#
?
Nov 8, 2018 19:19
|
|
|
Just climb more and eat real foods guys
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2018 00:21
|
|
|
interrodactyl posted:It is very difficult to build strength while you're cutting weight. No comment on the brain stuff. It's true that it's difficult to *build* strength while cutting - but at the same time with a high enough protein intake it's perfectly possible to retain strength/muscle whilst shedding fat. This leads to you "feeling" stronger because you're lifting a lighter version of yourself - and climbing is all about that, plus endurance, rather than seeing your squat weight go up week-on-week.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2018 00:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:17 |
|
|
All my pissing and moaning must have made a difference, as my gym is opening up again. Fortuna be praised, I'll get back to attacking my bingo wings soon.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2018 16:55
|
|