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MrOnBicycle posted:Alfa Romeo There's your problem! My VW acts all stuttery sometimes. Pretty sure it's the fuel injectors as they've gone through like six revisions and people still complain.
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Nov 8, 2018 15:43
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Uthor posted:There's your problem! Ha! To be honest I think it's just me being overly "attentive". But speaking of air filters. PO has some K&N equivalent put into it, but I'm kinda suspicious toward those after market filters. Worth swapping back to stock, perhaps? Especially if they mess with low end performance and or engine management.
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Nov 8, 2018 18:38
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Any way to take out scratches in a windshield? They aren’t too deep, but I put probably a dozen or so on it. Got caught without my ice scraper. :-/
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Nov 9, 2018 05:23
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nitsuga posted:Any way to take out scratches in a windshield? They aren’t too deep, but I put probably a dozen or so on it. Got caught without my ice scraper. :-/ Something like this, maybe.
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Nov 9, 2018 05:30
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Uthor posted:There's your problem! My girlfriend has a 2016 GLI, and the thing carbons up pretty bad in pretty short order. Getting it up to operating temperature and then running it up through the gears a couple times makes amusing clouds of smoke, and then it starts running properly again.
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Nov 9, 2018 05:33
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MrYenko posted:My girlfriend has a 2016 GLI, and the thing carbons up pretty bad in pretty short order. Getting it up to operating temperature and then running it up through the gears a couple times makes amusing clouds of smoke, and then it starts running properly again. My first car was "granny-driven" by the PO and his family. After I've had it for a while and drive more spiritedly it certainly became less sluggish. Part of it was obviously the ECU adapting, but being a Mitsubishi GDI engine that carbons up in 2 seconds of driving, I think the harder driving had something to do it. It had 120hp, so "had to" (i.e being 18 years old, why wouldn't you) gun it when pulling out on the main road from a stop.
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Nov 9, 2018 09:13
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What methods do you guys use to free up seized brake pistons in calipers? I've tried compressed air and heating and a combination of both, but the last piston refuses to come out.
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Nov 9, 2018 12:51
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Grakkus posted:What methods do you guys use to free up seized brake pistons in calipers? I've tried compressed air and heating and a combination of both, but the last piston refuses to come out. Plug the inlet hole with a bolt, loosen the bleeder nipple, then attach a grease gun to the bleeder and pump it full of grease. Messy but effective.
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Nov 9, 2018 13:09
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Just a quick question for the thread. I own a 2005 Saturn Ion coupe (with the suicide doors). I just got my recalls fixed, ignition and power steering. On the inspection report, they said my rear brake shoes were at 4mm, at the low end of "ok" territory. I just replaced my front pads and rotors last week. So how long should I wait to replace the shoes and/or drums on my car? I drive about 50mi a day to and from work, mostly highway with little braking. Also, my car's a stick, so I mostly coast and downshift (while rev-matching). So when should I replace the rear shoes? Also, car has about 50,000 miles on it. TL;DR Rear brake shoes at 4mm, when replace?
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Nov 9, 2018 17:16
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Rear brakes only do a fraction of the overall braking effort, and drum shoes tend to wear at a very slow rate. Every car I've ever owned that was equipped with rear drums made it past 100,000 on the factory shoes. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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Nov 9, 2018 17:39
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Dagen H posted:Plug the inlet hole with a bolt, loosen the bleeder nipple, then attach a grease gun to the bleeder and pump it full of grease. Messy but effective. I've always pumped the grease through the inlet, my grease gun is too big to fit in the bleeder threads E: as always, watch your hands, those pistons fly out quickly The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 17:56
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The Door Frame posted:I've always pumped the grease through the inlet, my grease gun is too big to fit in the bleeder threads Clip the nozzle onto the bleeder screw like you would a zerk fitting. The Door Frame posted:E: as always, watch your hands, those pistons fly out quickly Very much this.
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Nov 9, 2018 18:15
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Dagen H posted:Plug the inlet hole with a bolt, loosen the bleeder nipple, then attach a grease gun to the bleeder and pump it full of grease. Messy but effective. Thanks - how do you get all the grease back out again? Won't any residual grease muck up the system?
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Nov 9, 2018 19:37
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Yes you'll want to clear the grease out. Could try compressed air if you want less grease to clean up. Brake cleaner should clean it up no problem.
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Nov 9, 2018 20:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yes you'll want to clear the grease out. Could try compressed air if you want less grease to clean up. It's not exactly EPA approved, but I used a pressure washer on low to get the grease out of my rear caliper because it was stuck behind the handbrake mechanism and I couldn't figure out how to disassemble it without risking damage to a caliper that was twice my age. Engine degreaser can help for a soak, but be prepared for using LOTS of brake clean
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Nov 9, 2018 20:57
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So I recently was unable to get my 05 civic EX aligned for a slew of reasons that I was able to take care of, all except for one thing, the front right upper control arm, I've searched everywhere I can think, ebay, craigs, autozone/advanced/oreily's.com/rock auto, can't even seem to get a picture of the part, let alone actually buy it. The only listing I've seen are on ebay, there's about 3 auctions for an "upper front passenger control arm" but the picture is that of a lower control arm (my brother in law and I recently replaced the FR lower control arm and I have the old part sitting right next to me for confirmation) My question is, to anyone familiar with this car, does this part exist? should I look for it under a different name? is it just the exact same part as a lower control arm? lower: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Lowe...1a37:rk:16:pf:0 "upper": https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Uppe...BGA3:rk:25:pf:0 Thanks in advanced while I continue to investigate this. runaway dog fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 21:55
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Isn't an '05 Civic a Macpherson strut front end?
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Nov 9, 2018 22:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Isn't an '05 Civic a Macpherson strut front end? It most certainly is
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Nov 9, 2018 22:41
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Looks like it yea, it's a big piston with a spring https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Str...5KMDEEFEV4P331N Based on diagrams I'm not even seeing one, it's literally strut, frame, lower CA, steering link, I'm really not sure what this mechanic is on about, I talked about the lower control arm and he was like naw that is good, I'm already replacing the strut, and all the tie rods, sway bar, lower ball joint. print out says part no. ipc5cb60073, but I can't see to find anything relevant by searching for this number. runaway dog fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 22:42
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Same mechanic that can't align it is trying to sell you the part? I'd go somewhere else. For whatever reason there seems to be a lot of slimy alignment shops out there that manage to find "something" to say you can't possibly align it like "this".
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Nov 10, 2018 00:10
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I would be comparing the parts rockauto has with the parts that exist in the current, functional car, they're not gonna just not have something like that. Yesterday I noticed this is broken on my van:  The piece inside the filler door that the actual filler hose is attached to. What even is that CALLED that I can google up a replacement part for? I always assumed it was sheet metal but turns out no, lol plastic bullshit.
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Nov 10, 2018 02:06
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Filler neck?
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Nov 10, 2018 02:19
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Isn't that the physical tube you put the nozzle into and vomit gas down? That's intact, the broken thing is just like what held the tube and nozzle area in place.
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Nov 10, 2018 02:23
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The mounting flange is part of the filler neck.
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Nov 10, 2018 02:36
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Apparently not on rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4937916&cc=1073685&jsn=503
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Nov 10, 2018 02:42
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Do I need to worry about Galvanic corrosion or whatever the gently caress happens between two dissimilar metals if I'm just trying to bolt two pieces of aluminum together? I need to make something taller by about an inch, its probably about 1/4" wall 4x4" aluminum box and I was just planning on nut and bolting an ~inch thick slab of aluminum to the bottom of it with regular steel (probably zinc plated) bolts of appropriate lengths. Counter sunk because they need to sit flatish.
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Nov 10, 2018 03:43
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Javid, you really should start a thread.
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Nov 10, 2018 03:53
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One Nut Wonder posted:Just a quick question for the thread. I own a 2005 Saturn Ion coupe (with the suicide doors). I just got my recalls fixed, ignition and power steering. On the inspection report, they said my rear brake shoes were at 4mm, at the low end of "ok" territory. I just replaced my front pads and rotors last week. So how long should I wait to replace the shoes and/or drums on my car? I drive about 50mi a day to and from work, mostly highway with little braking. Also, my car's a stick, so I mostly coast and downshift (while rev-matching). So when should I replace the rear shoes? Also, car has about 50,000 miles on it. I've owned two Ions, both coupes, both stick. One made it to 206k on the original rear shoes. The other has 158k.
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Nov 10, 2018 04:33
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wesleywillis posted:Do I need to worry about Galvanic corrosion or whatever the gently caress happens between two dissimilar metals if I'm just trying to bolt two pieces of aluminum together? It's already something with aluminum and steel bolts right? Why would adding some aluminum change that?
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Nov 10, 2018 07:54
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spankmeister posted:It's already something with aluminum and steel bolts right? Why would adding some aluminum change that? A welded aluminum piece. Not worried about al+al, more the steel bolts + aluminum. Its got to hold a fair bit of weight from a moving object, I just want to make sure either the bolts don't corrode excessively or the thinner aluminum part doesn't corrode and the bolts/al slab pull out through the holes or some poo poo.
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Nov 10, 2018 13:32
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So last week I pulled the malfunctioning and (i thought) useless ABS module out of the crown vic, to either see about poking at the circuitboard to find an obvious problem, or just look up the part number for a replacement. In that time I've been driving it with the module out with no problems. Last night, CEL came on and the car wouldn't stay in gear, had to pull over and get a tow. Code was a P062C, which google says is for the vehicle speed sensor. Any chance I'm a dumbass and these two things are related? Could pulling even a non-op ABS module gently caress with the VSS signal? Or is it just a coincidence?
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Nov 10, 2018 15:10
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My wife's tires stil have tread on them, but they are slipping a lot, and since we'r bought the car used in August I am guessing they ste just old and need to be replaced. We also have a set of near-new studless snow tires in the garage, mounted and ready to go. We'r live in Oregon and the windows are icing up in the mornings but daytime high temps are still in the upper 40s and 50s. Is it too soon to switch?
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Nov 10, 2018 17:15
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Your winter tires will be fine. Even if they're not, I'd rather put up with a bit of extra wear instead of no traction.
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Nov 10, 2018 17:22
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Uthor posted:Your winter tires will be fine. That was my thought too, but I wan't sure how much worse it would be. Mostly I don't want my wife crashing on her way to work. Thanks.
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Nov 10, 2018 17:46
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I use them from late November until late March or early April in central IL. Little snow, plenty of 60+ days at either end. A set lasts me 5-6 years, I'd say.
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Nov 10, 2018 18:10
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Geoj posted:Rear brakes only do a fraction of the overall braking effort, and drum shoes tend to wear at a very slow rate. Modern brake bias is not what once was. The rears do a lot more of the work these days...I'm not sure when this started happening, though, so I don't know how an '05 is going to wear. A set of shoes is going to be about $30, so I'd probably just do it if there's a question.
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Nov 10, 2018 20:58
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It seems like the ones that burn through rear pads more quickly are the ones that have rear discs with comically tiny pads. Even the parking brake shoes (drum in hat) on my WJ and CRV are bigger than some of the rear disc pads I've seen.
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Nov 10, 2018 23:41
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I just had the rear disc pads on my Mazda 3 (2015) replaced and they were pretty thin. Front discs still have like 7mm on them.
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Nov 11, 2018 02:44
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My 87 Volvo 240dl is leaking oil, too much oil. I'm a student paying living expenses and school bills - I don't have a lot of spare cash, so I have to budget wisely for car repairs. What's an estimate for repairs on a front-end oil leak? I couldn't determine the source on my own, but my guess is it's some sort of front seal. Maybe even the rear main seal. But I could be wrong. There's a small puddle under my car every morning now. But other than the oil leak, the car runs Great. With this small, inadequate amount of info - could someone still please try to give me a ballpark estimate of how much $$$ I'll need to budget to get this fixed by my mechanic?
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Nov 11, 2018 18:59
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Semi related question, my head gasket has an external oil leak. It's a small and slow leak, but how likely is it to go full "blown head gasket" on me?
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Nov 11, 2018 19:34
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