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Changed the fuel pump in my ion today and didn't spill a drop of gas until I tried using one of the new gas cans that you have to push the spigot to get gas to come out while turning a safety at which point it spills gas all over your hand and everywhere except down the spout.
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Nov 15, 2018 19:05
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God I hate those things.
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Nov 15, 2018 19:20
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C-Bangin' it 
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Elephanthead posted:Changed the fuel pump in my ion today and didn't spill a drop of gas until I tried using one of the new gas cans that you have to push the spigot to get gas to come out while turning a safety at which point it spills gas all over your hand and everywhere except down the spout. Those are some of the worst loving things ever. Mine doesn't work for poo poo on my Nova because the filler is behind the plate. Last time I used it, I had to turn the nozzle around 180* to get the last quart or so out of the can. loving idiotic.
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Nov 15, 2018 21:09
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The Door Frame posted:Did you know that vinyl gets real stiff in the cold? When I went to put my soft top up last night, it wouldn't stretch and the latch broke when I was trying to put it up. On a related note, plastic gets super brittle in the cold too, so when I went into my glovebox to get the hardtop mounting stuff today, the handle snapped off in my hand and I can't open my glovebox Oh, that sucks. When I worked at a mobile electronics shop, it would sometimes get cold enough for those shenanigans, even in Texas, so we would run the heater in the car a bit. Had to explain to more than one irate customer that it wasn’t wasting gas so much as saving your dash trim. Elephanthead posted:Changed the fuel pump in my ion today and didn't spill a drop of gas until I tried using one of the new gas cans that you have to push the spigot to get gas to come out while turning a safety at which point it spills gas all over your hand and everywhere except down the spout. This is why you can buy normal old school spouts online for those cans. And why there is more than a few YT videos on how to defeat the “safety” feature. Fortunately, I have several jugs from before that foolishness. If I need another gas can, I’m buying a racing fuel jug. They’re exempt.
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Nov 16, 2018 04:10
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Elephanthead posted:Changed the fuel pump in my ion today and didn't spill a drop of gas until I tried using one of the new gas cans that you have to push the spigot to get gas to come out while turning a safety at which point it spills gas all over your hand and everywhere except down the spout. Did you happen to change it because of a leak, or because the pump poo poo itself? Because if it was because of the plastic lines from the pump leaking..... GM would have covered it (along with a new tank and filler neck). (and gently caress those drat gas cans) And uh.... how much of a pain was it? The pump in my Ion is noisy as hell. It's also leaking enough to make it stink around the back of the car (which would normally mean it'd be covered), but I'm worried GM will deny the "enhanced warranty coverage" because the pump is so noisy (I also suspect it may not be the original pump - partly because of noise, partly because the gauge is so far off). I have access to a lift, so getting under it is NBD, so long as I do it when it's nearly empty. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Nov 16, 2018 |
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Nov 16, 2018 07:32
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Mounted the calipers and the handbrake stuff. Only the bleeding left to do. 
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Nov 16, 2018 12:54
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STR posted:Did you happen to change it because of a leak, or because the pump poo poo itself? I remember seeing on some cobalt forum that you can access the pump via the back seat.. if I remember correctly
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Nov 17, 2018 01:10
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I finally got my cars into my new (to me) pole barn. I also took a dead mouse out of that Datsun. Baby steps.
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Nov 17, 2018 05:15
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Changed the oil and rotated the tires on the Volvo today. Thought about swapping the oil cooler, but didn't feel like getting P2'd today.
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Nov 17, 2018 22:54
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surivdaoreht posted:I remember seeing on some cobalt forum that you can access the pump via the back seat.. if I remember correctly Not without cutting sheet metal, at least on the Ion.
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Nov 18, 2018 09:48
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This weekend was one of repeated boosts. We got back from about a week away to a dead battery, and a call to CAA. Boosted, runs fine, idle for 30 minutes and then off to the store. In the store lot, dead again, another boost by the same tow truck and driver, then home because the battery replacement service only works from 9 to 5. Yesterday, called for the battery service and when the same truck and driver again showed up, she started but with a bit of hesitation. He tested the battery, it passed but was showing basically zero charge. So it idled for 20 minutes then I drove it around town for more than half an hour, getting the revs up. Today, dead again. Rapid clicking but she can't quite get there. Rather than call again for battery service*, I walked to the nearby parts store (10 minutes) and walked back with a new battery in my backpack. Swapped, started, all is well. I took the old battery to the store to get my core charge refund and they tested the new battery in my truck. I thought they'd be able to test my alternator at the same time but he gave me a funny look and said he knew nothing about that. Oh well, new battery is performing exactly as it should, and I'm going to watch out for signs that the alternator isn't charging the battery. When running, everything seems to work the way it does with a functional alternator, but I guess it's possible for just the charging circuit to fail even if the alternator is able to keep the lights on and the engine firing. * As an aside, normal polite conversation becomes somewhat worrisome when it's with a tow truck driver. When he said "See you again!" I smiled and nodded but I was thinking "Please no". Nothing personal, he was polite and professional in all 3 interactions, but I'd rather not be dialing that number again any time soon.
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Nov 18, 2018 23:30
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After having the part sitting in the garage for months finally tackled the blend door actuator in the Vibe now that I'm driving it for the winter. They fail because the plastic teeth strip out, making you stuck with recirculated air and a loud knocking noise if you try to switch to fresh air. Not a huge issue in the summer, but a problem in the winter with constantly fogged windows, even having the defrost on full blast barely keeps it at bay without fresh air. Driving at night was almost dangerous. The job suuuuuucked. You officially have to take the entire dash out to get to it, but it's doable through the glovebox opening. Its held on with two 5.5mm screws, and you have to do the entire job by feel with one hand since its buried way up there. No room for a wrench or even a small 1/4" thumb wheel wrench, you have to hold the bare socket in a gloved hand for grip to remove/reinstall the two screws. Luckily they weren't very tight. Cut my wrists up good too. At least it's done, but I'll probably have to do it again in a few years because that's how long they seem to last.
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Nov 18, 2018 23:47
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  Put my plates on after getting it registered earlier this week, and did some work on it trying to make it run better. New plugs/wires/rotor/cap new fuel filter set the timing, it was at 0 degrees advanced and the owners manual calls for 10 degrees the power would always seem to die off after 3000rpm or so and if you stayed in it, it would blow the muffler off so i just cut that off. after all that it actually accelerates all the way to redline and scratches the tires pretty well when shifting to second gear. Its got a broken sway bar end link and the differential mount bushings have play so I going to order those and drive it around whenever it's dry out until i have time to replace the floors and stuff. probably tires too, they're pretty old.
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Nov 19, 2018 00:06
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I removed the transmission from the mod motor in the 240sx. Going to pull the engine and make sure it's buttoned up right.
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Nov 19, 2018 00:16
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Wrar posted:I removed the transmission from the mod motor in the 240sx. Going to pull the engine and make sure it's buttoned up right. That's the wrong direction, you're supposed to be putting stuff ON to the car.
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Nov 19, 2018 00:54
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Swapped snow tires onto my girlfriend's Element. Found out her couple month old all season tires on the rear wheels are wearing VERY unevenly. 
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Nov 19, 2018 01:03
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Time to get an alignment
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Nov 19, 2018 01:16
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ExecuDork posted:This weekend was one of repeated boosts. We got back from about a week away to a dead battery, and a call to CAA. Boosted, runs fine, idle for 30 minutes and then off to the store. In the store lot, dead again, another boost by the same tow truck and driver, then home because the battery replacement service only works from 9 to 5. Yesterday, called for the battery service and when the same truck and driver again showed up, she started but with a bit of hesitation. He tested the battery, it passed but was showing basically zero charge. So it idled for 20 minutes then I drove it around town for more than half an hour, getting the revs up. Today, dead again. Rapid clicking but she can't quite get there. You can check the alternator yourself with a cheap multi-meter. Go buy one for $20, it's an invaluable tool for car diagnostics. With the engine running turn on all the light, blower fan to full, radio on, etc. Go check the battery voltage. Even at idle you shouldn't be lower than around 13v and it should come right up to mid 13's or 14 as soon as you give the engine some revvs.
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Nov 19, 2018 13:50
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Bajaha posted:Time to get an alignment Pfft. Looks like chicken strips to me.
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Nov 19, 2018 13:57
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chrisgt posted:You can check the alternator yourself with a cheap multi-meter. Go buy one for $20, it's an invaluable tool for car diagnostics. With the engine running turn on all the light, blower fan to full, radio on, etc. Go check the battery voltage. Even at idle you shouldn't be lower than around 13v and it should come right up to mid 13's or 14 as soon as you give the engine some revvs. Yup, this. Even the free ones from Harbor Freight are good enough to check the voltage across the battery terminals. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Nov 19, 2018 |
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Nov 19, 2018 14:12
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Never connect those lovely little red Horror Fright multimeters to household current or anything higher, they're basically -only- useful and safe for low voltage use.
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Nov 19, 2018 14:16
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chrisgt posted:You can check the alternator yourself with a cheap multi-meter. Go buy one for $20, it's an invaluable tool for car diagnostics. With the engine running turn on all the light, blower fan to full, radio on, etc. Go check the battery voltage. Even at idle you shouldn't be lower than around 13v and it should come right up to mid 13's or 14 as soon as you give the engine some revvs. I have a multimeter and I finally got around to using it for the first time this weekend. Old battery, running it read about 14.4V across the battery. New battery, it read the same when the truck was running. Truck off, old battery read 12.2V and new one 12.9V. The increase in voltage when running means the alternator is working? I did not know that. Thank you!
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Nov 19, 2018 19:23
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In a perfect world around 13.8v while running.
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Nov 19, 2018 19:25
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Colostomy Bag posted:In a perfect world around 13.8v while running. It depends on how charged the battery is... Most newer cars are somewhat smart about charging the battery, so depending how long it's been charging for it could be in bulk, float, or whatever. Usually if the vehicle has been sitting a while and you just start it the voltage is gonna go somewhere over 14v for a while. If it's fully charged, somewhere around 13.2 to 13.4 is fine. Basically as long as the voltage goes up when it's running and doesn't droop too much when you turn all the accessories on, you're charging fine. The voltage when you turn the engine off is kinda irrelevant, what matters is the voltage after it's been sitting for a while. A fully charged and healthy lead acid battery will be around 12.9V after sitting overnight. So if you're seeing 12.9V after it sits overnight, that's great. If the old one was 12.2V after sitting over night, ya, that's getting tired.
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Nov 20, 2018 01:20
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The Door Frame posted:The capri forums say that it's "normal" for winter. The cars can't warm up enough in winter and can barely stay cool in summer They're dipshits. Your IAC also has a wax thermostat in it, and the coolant lines plug up. If they don't have coolant flow through them, they never close off enough and the idle doesn't drop. Its the majority of the high-idle airflow difference, the only other two ways air get through is the screw and the PWM percentage through the IAC. You also may have the ECU think the A/C is on, which raises the idle, as well as headlights and a few other load things controlled by the relay sitting behind the ECU. I have a whole pile of the idle motors if you want one, I used to grab them from junkyards when my GTX had the same problem, and it was just plugged with urst. It is the blue capped thing above the alternator. Shorting the green test connector should let you set the idle according to the VECI label. B6s don't have cooling problems, they have lovely owner problems. I never had any of mine get hot or fail to warm up and I drove at high speed through Death Valley at 115F with the aircon blasting and it never moved past the normal position. edit: The coolant feed for the B6 is the nipple right on the bypass pipe as it goes to the heater core, goes to the throttle body, and then to the idle motor and back under into the intake manifold at the heater core outlet fitting. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Nov 20, 2018 |
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Nov 20, 2018 04:08
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Put in a new gas tank in my truck as the old one had rusted thu.  I hate rust. The overflow valve on the top just pulled right out. No surprise there was a CEL for an evap leak.  I hate rust. I sheared this bolt off with the impact wrench.  I hate rust. 
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Nov 20, 2018 04:21
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Couple weekends ago, I drained all the old fuel from the RX-7 tank. About 20 liters? Took a while that's for sure. While I was into smelling gassy I replaced the fuel filter. I used to have a '83 with a bunch of garbage floating around the tank, and I remember routinely doing a roadside fuel filter replacement... now that I have it up on stands in my garage and used a creeper to slide under the car, I cannot fathom how I used to think that was an easy thing to take care of real quick on the shoulder. Come to think of it, I remember about 5 years ago thinking "installing the transmission from under the car on my back wasn't so bad", but today, no. (there's a fresh rebuilt transmission in the garage next to the car, but today, no) Last weekend I put 4 liters of fresh stuff in and ran a long fuel hose into a bucket to see what would happen. Nothing. Turns out this RX-7 is one of the, uhh, "later" series 3s with technology where it wants a tach signal before it will close the fuel pump's circuit. So I jumped the relay to test the pump with the engine off. Quite a bit of garbage came out of the lines, so I let it fill the bucket a bit until it looked clean. Fuel comes out and that's what I was looking for so I hooked the supply and return lines up to the carb. This is precision work. Everybody knows FB RX-7s run out of gas at the top of 3rd gear on a stock carb. The hogged out Nikki, mild up-port, and pipes should outrun the stock pump even faster. But I don't need to be redlining the engine for a couple thousand miles, which buys time to collect the parts to do a Mallory pump and FPR. Next on the punch list for the car is to drain the old oil that came in the engine, put fresh stuff in it, and crank it over a few times. I need to get the oil to the seals before I start it up again. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Nov 20, 2018 |
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Nov 20, 2018 06:28
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Bought it. Wife's new DD. '19 CX-3 Touring. 
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Nov 22, 2018 03:58
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Those are very cool and exactly what I want to get my wife into in the next year or so.
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Nov 22, 2018 04:59
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Getting a new set of tires fitted so that my car passes rego. Went with another set of Bridgestone re003’s. The set they just took off the car lasted me 90k km which I think is pretty good for a set of mildly sporty tyres
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Nov 22, 2018 06:12
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It took me months of negotiations to get to a CX-3 with my ex, but I still want one, they are basically the best crossover on the market if you want to have fun
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Nov 22, 2018 08:25
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Why not just get a 3 Hatch?
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Nov 22, 2018 20:42
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Wrar posted:Why not just get a 3 Hatch? This. Friends of mine has a new 3 hatch and a CX-3 as company cars. The 3 was definitely roomier inside.
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Nov 23, 2018 00:12
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Echotic posted:This. Friends of mine has a new 3 hatch and a CX-3 as company cars. The 3 was definitely roomier inside. AWD
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Nov 23, 2018 07:21
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You know, when you get a "new to you car" and you loathe doing the first oil change and after that smooth sailing? Cripes, did it on my (daughter's) jeep wj that I've done several changes before and for god sakes the drain plug was stubborn as hell. Meanwhile the oil filter spins off with the hand. I had to impact it off.
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Nov 23, 2018 18:09
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I loathe doing anything for the first time on a new-to-me car because I can be almost certain that something will piss me off to no measure. Latest thing was wheel nuts that were torque to all loving hell and I had stand on the bar and jump. I weigh 90kg. Oh and the idiot who balanced the wheels didn't account for the front brakes when doing the rears, so I can't rotate the tires. They weren't marked neither, so probably put them on wrong side since I have vibrations. That is unless they got balanced improperly...
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Nov 23, 2018 18:58
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MrOnBicycle posted:I loathe doing anything for the first time on a new-to-me car because I can be almost certain that something will piss me off to no measure. Latest thing was wheel nuts that were torque to all loving hell and I had stand on the bar and jump. I weigh 90kg. Oh and the idiot who balanced the wheels didn't account for the front brakes when doing the rears, so I can't rotate the tires. They weren't marked neither, so probably put them on wrong side since I have vibrations. That is unless they got balanced improperly... Did they put stickon weights in the center of the rim so they hit the brake calipers? Swapping a wheel from side to side shouldn't cause a vibration, wheels aren't balanced to the car so it shouldn't matter. If they did a bad job a weight may have fallen off when you removed a wheel, shouldn't cost too much to have them all re-balanced.
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Nov 23, 2018 20:02
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DJ Commie posted:They're dipshits. Your IAC also has a wax thermostat in it, and the coolant lines plug up. If they don't have coolant flow through them, they never close off enough and the idle doesn't drop. Its the majority of the high-idle airflow difference, the only other two ways air get through is the screw and the PWM percentage through the IAC. You also may have the ECU think the A/C is on, which raises the idle, as well as headlights and a few other load things controlled by the relay sitting behind the ECU. Ok, what am I shorting it to/with, and how does that allow me to change the idle speed? My heat works perfectly fine, is there any way to check if it's plugged without pulling hoses?
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Nov 23, 2018 21:39
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 Ceramic coating. Worth it? I guess I'll find out in a few months. For now it looks and feels like wet glass. So smooth.
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Nov 23, 2018 22:54
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chrisgt posted:Did they put stickon weights in the center of the rim so they hit the brake calipers? Yeah rear ones have weights where they hit the front calipers. It's my first time using these wheels since buying the car as they are the "winter rims" with winter tires. Not new, but almost. I was thinking that the tires maybe had worn "asymmetrically", but then again the alignment is bang on (summers were like a dream at all speeds), so shouldn't really matter that much right? Just read somewhere that you shouldn't rotate from side to side. Didn't spot any obvious spots where weights could have come off, and it didn't happen when I put them on. Getting the wheels aligned is probably going to set me back 70-90 dollars accoding to some places and I have to take the time to do it. Fun times.
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Nov 23, 2018 23:45
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