|
There isn't, unless you like pre-installed trash.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2018 22:34 |
|
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 04:45 |
|
Magnus Praeda posted:Is there any real reason to keep the manufacturer's partition vs. blowing it away and reclaiming that space? Lenovo decided that they needed a whole 25GB of space at the end of my drive and, as far as I can tell, it's only use is holding 1.5GB of drivers that are all probably woefully out of date. I can't just shrink it down, either, because it sticks the free space at the end of the partition and can't be added to the C drive. In theory the manufacturer could use their little partition in all sorts of useful ways and they might make use of the space in their software but odds are you don't want their software anyways so just nuke it. Fancier partition software would let you resize the partitions intelligently but it's not worth the hassle for old drivers, you know how to grab them off the website and put it on a USB stick if necessary.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2018 22:39 |
|
I’ve got a couple laptops with windows 8 oem on them. Is there any way that installing windows 10 will use these keys?
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 00:47 |
|
fat bossy gerbil posted:I’ve got a couple laptops with windows 8 oem on them. Is there any way that installing windows 10 will use these keys? The keys should just work if you are installing from media, Microsoft never turned off using 7/8 keys for Win10 installs.
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 00:50 |
|
isndl posted:The keys should just work if you are installing from media, Microsoft never turned off using 7/8 keys for Win10 installs. You can actually export the keys from 8/8.1 UEFI computers if you are so inclined. It would just activate if you start with an activated 8/8.1 install. If you start with a clean load you might have to do the key export with something like Produkey.
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 01:01 |
|
Is there a way to activate windows with my microsoft login but not have it name my user folder after it? I'd much prefer it to have my name instead since it's a shared computer. If the only answer is "nuke it and activate after install" I can do that, since i have to swap around hard drives soon anyway.
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 02:25 |
|
A Real Happy Camper posted:Is there a way to activate windows with my microsoft login but not have it name my user folder after it? I'd much prefer it to have my name instead since it's a shared computer. If the only answer is "nuke it and activate after install" I can do that, since i have to swap around hard drives soon anyway. Create the user as a local account first.
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 02:30 |
|
A Real Happy Camper posted:Is there a way to activate windows with my microsoft login but not have it name my user folder after it? I'd much prefer it to have my name instead since it's a shared computer. If the only answer is "nuke it and activate after install" I can do that, since i have to swap around hard drives soon anyway. astral posted:Create the user as a local account first. Better: create your preferred user as a local account, then make a *different* account and link MS to that. Then disable the MS-linked account in user manager and never have to deal with any of the side effects of a MS-linked user. (e: Assuming you don't want to be linked, that is. Those "side effects" are features if you're fully onboard with the MS ecosystem.)
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 03:59 |
|
Lambert posted:There isn't, unless you like pre-installed trash. isndl posted:In theory the manufacturer could use their little partition in all sorts of useful ways and they might make use of the space in their software but odds are you don't want their software anyways so just nuke it. Fancier partition software would let you resize the partitions intelligently but it's not worth the hassle for old drivers, you know how to grab them off the website and put it on a USB stick if necessary. That's kinda what I figured. If they'd sized it non-stupidly like 2-5GB I would have cared significantly less but it's really glaring to see 23-ish gigs of free space on there.
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 04:48 |
|
It turns out these laptops have windows 7 pro on them but they clearly had windows 8 installed from the factory. Would just upgrading the current 7 pro installs activate properly?
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 06:58 |
|
Yep, 7 or 8 both work fine.
|
# ? Nov 28, 2018 09:31 |
|
Anyone having any issues with sounds with a recent Windows 10 install by any chance? I just did a clean installation and sound is all sorts of messed up (voices and some other sounds are extremely low volume). I've "fixed" it by enabling loudness equalization but I'd rather have a proper fix for it. Already checked for sound drivers and no change. Edit: Found it, Windows had set my speakers (I have a 2.1 setup) to 5.1. Falcorum fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Nov 30, 2018 |
# ? Nov 30, 2018 23:35 |
|
Hey, you know how I was bitching about how long it takes to create a fresh Win10 USB installer using the tool and also the fact that you can't just update an existing installer? So, that same old crappy USB2 flash drive took, say, 2 hours to create the installer. I just used it a little while to do a first-time Win10 Pro installation on a Hades Canyon NUC (the top-end 8809G version, with an SX8200 NVMe SSD.) I glanced down at the clock when it started the installation process: 11:34. You know what time it was done with the USB drive (i.e. the system reboots and then you have to remove the drive to force it to boot from the internal drive, where it subsequently finishes up the installation)? 11:38. That's right, it took hours to make the installer but the USB drive is done after only about 4 minutes (+/- 1 minute.) Decade-old USB2 drive be damned, that's pretty absurd how much longer it takes to make the thing in the first place. Oh well, I'm done bitching about this, thanks for reading my vent.
|
# ? Dec 1, 2018 06:39 |
|
It's because the MCT downloads a fresh copy of the windows install ISO every time you run it. That's why it takes so long to run the tool.
|
# ? Dec 1, 2018 09:14 |
|
I was going to chime in and say I dunno what's wrong with you, but when I reformatted earlier this year, the MCT took less than a minute to set up. I'm on gigafiber, so I guess that explains it.
|
# ? Dec 1, 2018 18:05 |
|
In continuing with my fresh install adventures, Windows now just has my USB inputs freeze every so often, they seem to act as if they were disconnected but there's no device removal notification and the only USB devices I have connected are a keyboard and mouse. Looking at the device manager it seems to insist I have two keyboards (I can remove one of the entries without losing keyboard functionality), but removing both and then scanning for new hardware installs both of them again.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 11:26 |
|
Falcorum posted:In continuing with my fresh install adventures, Windows now just has my USB inputs freeze every so often, they seem to act as if they were disconnected but there's no device removal notification and the only USB devices I have connected are a keyboard and mouse. Looking at the device manager it seems to insist I have two keyboards (I can remove one of the entries without losing keyboard functionality), but removing both and then scanning for new hardware installs both of them again. Not sure if it's what you're experiencing but I've been having a similar sounding issue where my mouse hangs up for a second every 4-5 seconds if I keep my secondary monitor plugged in but turned off, about half the time. Turning the monitor back on makes it immediately go away so it seems to be directly related, highly annoying.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 12:43 |
|
Falcorum posted:In continuing with my fresh install adventures, Windows now just has my USB inputs freeze every so often, they seem to act as if they were disconnected but there's no device removal notification and the only USB devices I have connected are a keyboard and mouse. Looking at the device manager it seems to insist I have two keyboards (I can remove one of the entries without losing keyboard functionality), but removing both and then scanning for new hardware installs both of them again. If you have a keyboard that supports n-key rollover on USB it'll install itself as several keyboards to get past the USB-imposed limitation of 6 key rollover.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 12:55 |
|
Is there a way to get screen scaling to work on the desktop but when I launch a full screen program to stop it? I have my TV hooked up to my laptop, both run at 1920x1080. I'll put a movie on the tv and launch a game (slay the spire for example) the game will cross onto the tv screen since it's launching fullscreen on the laptop screen at 1920x1080 at 125%. I like the 125% scale for the desktop as otherwise the writing is too drat small, but I'm not sure how to stop it from scaling full screen games.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 16:23 |
Tried setting compatibility settings on the game shortcut? You should be able to disable screen scaling completely for individual programs that way.
|
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 16:28 |
|
At what point should I stop using my old Windows install and flatten/reinstall? I believe my current Windows installation has been up for ~10 years now (it's Windows 10; I upgraded without fresh installs). Every time I upgraded my boot drive, I just imaged it over, and when I replaced the innards six years ago I didn't touch the Windows install other than any corrections it needed for the new hardware. I'm getting new CPU/mobo/RAM for Christmas and was checking up on the process to keep Win10 working when replacing those parts, and it occurred to me that despite the incredible annoyance involved, it might be time to check with people who know better if I should start fresh. Am I stuck in old thoughts or is it probably time?
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 20:54 |
|
tzirean posted:At what point should I stop using my old Windows install and flatten/reinstall? You shouldn't reinstall unless you're having an active problem. Please understand, the "you need to do reinstalls proactively" advice applies to like Windows from over 25 years ago.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 21:11 |
|
Geemer posted:If you have a keyboard that supports n-key rollover on USB it'll install itself as several keyboards to get past the USB-imposed limitation of 6 key rollover. Is THAT how that works? I wish I knew whatever engineer came up with that solution, I owe them at least one drink.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2018 23:12 |
|
Geemer posted:If you have a keyboard that supports n-key rollover on USB it'll install itself as several keyboards to get past the USB-imposed limitation of 6 key rollover. Many gaming keyboards will offer a "BIOS Mode" for exactly this reason that dumbs them down to 125Hz 6KRO mode. Another reason you might see multiple keyboard devices is if you have any other input devices that support remapping buttons to keyboard keys. My mouse shows up as both a mouse and a keyboard for example.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2018 02:14 |
|
Earlier this month adobe decided i needed to have windows 10 for new after efects update because gently caress you. Where is the guide to turning off all the annoying bullshit that now happens with this garbage OS? Id also like any information about making it recognize drives that it made unrecognizable when it tried to fix said drive.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2018 05:52 |
|
Mischievous Mink posted:Not sure if it's what you're experiencing but I've been having a similar sounding issue where my mouse hangs up for a second every 4-5 seconds if I keep my secondary monitor plugged in but turned off, about half the time. Turning the monitor back on makes it immediately go away so it seems to be directly related, highly annoying. I do have a TV that's mostly turned off connected, but removing the cable didn't seem to fix it. I've tried messing around with disabling various USB devices in device manager and still no luck. Edit: Nothing in event logs, disabled HD and USB sleep, still freezes every so often. Edit2: Turns out Windows installed some generic Qualcomm wireless adapter drivers instead of my adapter's specific drivers, haven't had any issues since I fixed that. Now as to why drivers for a pcie wireless card would cause USB to randomly freeze for a few seconds is beyond me. Falcorum fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Dec 4, 2018 |
# ? Dec 3, 2018 18:23 |
|
Falcorum posted:I do have a TV that's mostly turned off connected, but removing the cable didn't seem to fix it. I've tried messing around with disabling various USB devices in device manager and still no luck. Depending on your motherboard the USB controller probably is using pcie lanes which it might be sharing with the pcie slot your card is in. Without the proper drivers you could easily run into conflicts there. Gotta love win10 continually making GBS threads the bed with drivers while still forcing the user to into the driver windows update deems worthy.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 04:52 |
|
This is a little clickbaity, they're not abandoning Edge, but EdgeHTML. Still kinda funny tho. https://www.windowscentral.com/microsoft-building-chromium-powered-web-browser-windows-10
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 16:43 |
|
I've not had many problems with Edge since the good old days, when your tenth tab would immediately make the performance of web pages crash into the ground, but that is probably for the best.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 16:59 |
|
AlternateAccount posted:This is a little clickbaity, they're not abandoning Edge, but EdgeHTML. Still kinda funny tho. MS should just revert to Windows 7 and start developing again. Their entire mobile strategy failed miserably and even they don't want to deal with it anymore. MS is turning into a cloud company. I like Edge for one reason. Playing super high definition videos/HDR is far smoother and better in Edge than any other browser. Less CPU usage too.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 17:16 |
|
Anyone wanna throw up a little bit? Yes? Well here you go.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 19:32 |
|
Im_Special posted:Anyone wanna throw up a little bit? Yes? Well here you go. i think a little bit went into my lung
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 19:34 |
|
Im_Special posted:Anyone wanna throw up a little bit? Yes? Well here you go. That is IMHO not a bad change, for most people. As long as that checkbox for standardized date is there I'm fine with it.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 19:40 |
|
I want to link my Windows 10 'digital entitlement' to my Microsoft account. I've done this by using the 'Add a Microsoft account' thing in Settings -> Activation. I can then see my PC as a device at account.microsoft.com. Perfect. However, it then assumes I want to sign-in to my PC using my Microsoft account. I don't want to have to input (e.g. ) $BLX?6m~JF=EcAt every time I turn my PC on, that's demented. So, I went to 'sign in with a local account instead' in Settings -> Accounts. Fair enough, I'm back to where I was before. However, it's removed my PC as a device from my Microsoft account, and although my MSA is listed in 'email & app accounts', the activation is apparently no longer tied to my MSA as there's no mention of linking in Settings -> Activation. Am I really going to have to change my MSA password to something insecure but finger-friendly? A quick Google search is absolutely useless, as expected.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 19:42 |
|
spincube posted:I want to link my Windows 10 'digital entitlement' to my Microsoft account. Settings: Accounts > Sign-in options Set a PIN. There's a checkbox for using letters and symbols in it, so you effectively get a local password for an MS Account-linked system account.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 19:43 |
|
Thank you, this works. It feels like a shaky, hacky, bodged-together non-solution, but, well, Windows 10.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 19:52 |
|
spincube posted:I want to link my Windows 10 'digital entitlement' to my Microsoft account. https://xkcd.com/936/
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 19:56 |
|
Anyone hear that Edge is dead and Microsoft is building their own browser based off of Chromium?
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 20:00 |
|
Nine posts up?
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 20:04 |
|
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 04:45 |
|
i've heard.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2018 20:13 |