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BlancoNino posted:I had a long climbing hiatus due to cycling injuries (including a full Achilles tendon tear, not recommended), and other than a minor pulley injury I'm having a blast again. I was climbing around V5/6 when I stopped and after a couple months I am pretty comfortable on most V4s and found several harder routes to work on. Keep it up pal, also, dog very good.
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Nov 27, 2018 22:25
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I've been fighting a split tip since end of October. Anyone has some good healing tips? It's really trivial but also really annoying because it's on my thumb in an area that gets a lot of use. I tape it when climbing. Seems to be a weird balance between too dry and too wet to get it healed. I'm down 3 fingers on one hand!
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Nov 27, 2018 22:56
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You could try New-Skin or other liquid bandages to keep it from tearing while you aren't climbing but it might just take forever to heal.
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Nov 27, 2018 23:13
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Superglue
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Nov 28, 2018 01:25
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I had 6 or so days off due to the holiday and family stuff, and last night felt incredibly fresh. I was climbing as hard as I ever have been and never got pumped, and even after attempting routes that, for me, were about the top of my ability I felt ready to go again after some short rest. A route that had, a few weeks ago, been out of my abilities was now an easy warm-up. This makes me think I am either doing something wrong with my recovery or that longer rest periods are just generally good sometimes. I'm leaning towards the former. As I'm hitting my late 30s, I've definitely found that my body is generally shittier. I'm hoping that getting back on the creatine/beta-alanine/BCAA supplementation will be enough recovery help without going into supplementation overdrive or psuedo-science.
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Nov 28, 2018 14:27
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A week of rest is good to mix in.
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Nov 28, 2018 15:54
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ShaneB posted:I had 6 or so days off due to the holiday and family stuff, and last night felt incredibly fresh. I was climbing as hard as I ever have been and never got pumped, and even after attempting routes that, for me, were about the top of my ability I felt ready to go again after some short rest. A route that had, a few weeks ago, been out of my abilities was now an easy warm-up. How’s your sleep usually? That for me feels like the most important factor in recovery and that fresh feeling
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Nov 29, 2018 04:48
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:How’s your sleep usually? That for me feels like the most important factor in recovery and that fresh feeling 7-8 every night. It's one thing I do well.
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Nov 29, 2018 05:56
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cheese eats mouse posted:I've been fighting a split tip since end of October. Anyone has some good healing tips? It's really trivial but also really annoying because it's on my thumb in an area that gets a lot of use. I tape it when climbing. Seems to be a weird balance between too dry and too wet to get it healed. This worked for me for a really nasty split: right before bed, pack it with Climb-on or neosporin and cover with a band-aid. Use MORE than you think you need. During the day, use moisturizer a couple of times. It took my split about two weeks of this to heal fully. Keeping skin moist helps it heal.
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Nov 29, 2018 07:09
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I'll be in Chicago for an upcoming weekend, wondering if there are any good gyms to check out?
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Nov 30, 2018 01:05
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Suicide Watch posted:I'll be in Chicago for an upcoming weekend, wondering if there are any good gyms to check out? There's a big First Ascent in the Avondale neighborhood. Heard good things.
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Nov 30, 2018 01:14
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Suicide Watch posted:I'll be in Chicago for an upcoming weekend, wondering if there are any good gyms to check out? First Ascent has four locations. All are bouldering except for Avondale which also has roped climbing. All are good.
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Nov 30, 2018 15:57
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I checked out the Humboldt Park location a few weeks ago and had a lovely time. I don't know the other ones. I'll be in the area in 2 weeks. PM me if you'd like a climbing buddy (I have almost no experience with ropes, I primarily boulder at the v3-ish level).
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Nov 30, 2018 16:17
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ShaneB posted:I had 6 or so days off due to the holiday and family stuff, and last night felt incredibly fresh. I was climbing as hard as I ever have been and never got pumped, and even after attempting routes that, for me, were about the top of my ability I felt ready to go again after some short rest. A route that had, a few weeks ago, been out of my abilities was now an easy warm-up. Maybe you do too much in your average session. No heard of creatine being used for recovery, what makes you think it's a good way to go?
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Nov 30, 2018 23:35
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jiggerypokery posted:Maybe you do too much in your average session. No heard of creatine being used for recovery, what makes you think it's a good way to go? It's more just part of an overall performance package, to be honest. Also nice Red Dwarf av.
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Dec 1, 2018 00:15
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Do just train with it and stop taking it before a trip to drop the water weight or do you keep taking it?
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Dec 1, 2018 07:14
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Got some questions about wrist pain. I've been bouldering for a year now and throughout I have been getting wrist ache. Not very painful, just that my wrists are the first thing to hurt and that can sometimes be only 20 mins into a session. It is predominantly my left wrist (right handed). I am now climbing harder routes than last year and the level of pain is about the same. Is this just how the sport goes because of the pressure put through the wrists. Is it like cycling where it doesn't get easier, you just go faster? Or should people not be having wrist pain if doing the sport correctly/are in shape? I tried doing hangboard training on Monday (just hanging) and that seems to have exacerbated the ache so yesterday's session I had to stick mostly to slab. Usually if they hurt, it'll be the tendons on the little finger's side and the pain can be exaggerated during supination. The morning after a session (like as I type this) my wrists feel fine and have full range of motion, but again this can start as little as 20mins into a session Incoming Chinchilla fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Dec 1, 2018 |
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Dec 1, 2018 11:22
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You should not have wrist pain and that is very abnormal.
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Dec 1, 2018 17:26
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jiggerypokery posted:Do just train with it and stop taking it before a trip to drop the water weight or do you keep taking it? There's not really that much water weight in my experience. I'd rather have the muscle endurance and ATP reserves, as I get wiped.
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Dec 1, 2018 17:32
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Incoming Chinchilla posted:Got some questions about wrist pain. Do you work at a computer? I have the same problem when I get a bit keen on slopers. Do lots of this bullshit now and then https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex3TXMwSltU
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Dec 1, 2018 18:21
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jiggerypokery posted:Do you work at a computer? I have the same problem when I get a bit keen on slopers. I absolutely need to do this. I’m currently resting due to a wrist pain on my right side that makes it impossible to do a push-up. Really uncomfortable pain on the top of my wrist when in the up position. Splaying my fingers against some resistance also hurts a bit. This poo poo sucks
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Dec 1, 2018 18:44
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This isn't something I've personally researched, but I'm hoping someone else has. Are glucosamine chondroitin supplements useful for preventing/healing tendon injuries? I know they are marketed more for dealing with joint health, but I can't imagine they are harmful . . .
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Dec 1, 2018 21:30
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Ubiquitus posted:This isn't something I've personally researched, but I'm hoping someone else has. All the science on them is same as placebo. I'm honestly surprised they are still considered effective.
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Dec 1, 2018 21:44
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I started taking glucosamine + chrondroitin supplements at my doctor's suggestion for knee pain and I do think that it's helped there but as ShaneB said the science isn't exactly massively compelling and in any case as far as I'm aware if they're useful at all it's only for repairing / strengthening cartilage. I'm now taking vitamin c / d and fish oil supplements on top of the glucosamine and I'd say that I've definitely had fewer issues with tendon injuries than I had before I was taking all this poo poo but that could be due to a million different things.
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Dec 1, 2018 22:17
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Ubiquitus posted:This isn't something I've personally researched, but I'm hoping someone else has. Chondroitin is mostly BS. Glucosamine sulfate does show some benefit to preventing collagen degradation*, but at least one brand marketed as "glucosamine sulfate" has been shown to actually be glucosamine hydrochloride.** *https://examine.com/supplements/glucosamine/ **https://www.truthinadvertising.org/finest-nutrition-glucosamine-sulfate-supplements/
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Dec 2, 2018 00:43
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  Signs of life, nothing too enticing though. First one looks super crimpy and the second doesn't have much to it. Will still come out with a pad at some point. There are loads of boulders in this trail but mostly moss and lichen covered so I'm leaving them be.      Some of this little bluff could be fun, rock formations like these don't seem too common in Southern Maine so it's neat to find it on a smallish trail/ woodland reserve. I should definitely check out more trails nearby.
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Dec 3, 2018 02:04
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Where in ME? There's not-totally-awful bouldering around Freeport and Bradbury Mtn
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Dec 3, 2018 05:00
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That looks similar to the granite out by Shagg.
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Dec 3, 2018 14:44
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I'm in Kittery, so basically close enough to Pawtuckaway for outdoor bouldering if I'm so inclined. That bluff and boulders are in the Kenyon Hills trail preserve in South Berwick.
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Dec 3, 2018 15:10
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The bouldering at Rumney is good, too.
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Dec 6, 2018 05:00
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Felt good pushing V4 and V5 during my bouldering session today and I think I've gotten my first A2 injury in a while. I don't think the damage is bad but it gives me an excuse to take it a bit slower now.
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Dec 6, 2018 05:59
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Goldenish goons, I think I’m gonna hit that earthtreks today after work if anyone’s around and wants to meet up
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Dec 6, 2018 20:54
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Hauki posted:Goldenish goons, I think I’m gonna hit that earthtreks today after work if anyone’s around and wants to meet up I am usually a Monday/Wednesday guy.
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Dec 6, 2018 21:50
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I'm out in Vegas until Sunday morning, to climb in red rock canyon. Got some good days in, and today is a rest day but it rained some today and it's supposed to rain more over night. So, we can't climb here tomorrow and possibly not Saturday either, and then we need to take off. Is there somewhere nearby we can drive to instead to climb that's not desert sandstone?
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Dec 7, 2018 01:11
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armorer posted:I'm out in Vegas until Sunday morning, to climb in red rock canyon. Got some good days in, and today is a rest day but it rained some today and it's supposed to rain more over night. So, we can't climb here tomorrow and possibly not Saturday either, and then we need to take off. Is there somewhere nearby we can drive to instead to climb that's not desert sandstone? Looks like most of the other places that would be nearby options I've tried are rained out (Flag, Moe's) Bishop is probably your best option, and maybe Tahoe but I know zilcho about the climbing there (but I know there's climbing). Theres also joshua tree if that isn't rained out
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Dec 7, 2018 01:52
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armorer posted:I'm out in Vegas until Sunday morning, to climb in red rock canyon. Got some good days in, and today is a rest day but it rained some today and it's supposed to rain more over night. So, we can't climb here tomorrow and possibly not Saturday either, and then we need to take off. Is there somewhere nearby we can drive to instead to climb that's not desert sandstone? How cold is it up on Mt Charleston. The limestone is steep, hard, and fun
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Dec 7, 2018 02:02
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Ubiquitus posted:Looks like most of the other places that would be nearby options I've tried are rained out (Flag, Moe's) It's raining in J Tree today, and snowing in Bishop. Can you climb the day after it rains in J Tree?
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Dec 7, 2018 02:06
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Not sure, I haven't tried. I'd say probably right now if it's raining overnight it'll be unlikely since most of that is uncovered. Which way are you going home? CO/NM out of the way? If it's on the way that may be your best bet even though you'll lose 1/3 of a day to driving
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Dec 7, 2018 02:34
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We fly out Sunday morning from Vegas.
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Dec 7, 2018 02:35
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Ouch. Yeah there is bouldering on Charleston in caves, that may be the safest option, but I haven't touched any of it so I'm not sure how accessible it is during rain. It may be worth stopping by one of the local gyms and asking around.
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Dec 7, 2018 02:46
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