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I had a test drive in a Mazda 3 and a Hyundai Ioniq. I was thinking that on that day I would feel that one of these cars is rubbish and the other is great. Unfortunately I didn't want to part with either car. I'm binging car reviews since then.
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Dec 10, 2018 22:11
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Crowdsourcing an opinion. 2008 3 Serpentine and AC belts: Decent DIY or "gently caress off to a professional" type of project?
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Dec 11, 2018 00:42
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Not too too hard. Make sure you actually have the right length belts. Buy OEM if possible so you don't gently caress around for two hours with a belt that's too short but claims to fit. Have a second pair of hands to help you install or guide it from above. Take off the passenger wheel and wheel well liner. Prepare for busted knuckles, and have a long ratcheting wrench or cheater bar to turn the crank as you slide the belt on.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:47
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Lord Stimperor posted:I had a test drive in a Mazda 3 and a Hyundai Ioniq. I was thinking that on that day I would feel that one of these cars is rubbish and the other is great. Unfortunately I didn't want to part with either car. I'm binging car reviews since then. Ioniq? I'd go for the Mazda... unless the Ioniq is electric and that's a factor for you, in which case I'd go for a TM3 instead 
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Dec 11, 2018 01:10
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Wibla posted:Ioniq? I'd go for the Mazda... unless the Ioniq is electric and that's a factor for you, in which case I'd go for a TM3 instead Nah it was the hybrid one. The thing is, I commute pretty defensively. Someone else who is driving similar to me clocked in at 3l/100km with the Ioniq. (78 us mpg). It's not an achievement or something like that, but to me getting a good mileage and a completely stress free commute is kinda satisfying. So the Ioniq kind of attracts me because I share it's boring temperament. On the other hand, the Mazda looks much nicer, feels far better and drives like a box of fun. It also felt more intuitive. This is tough for me and I think it'll be a while until I can committ toa choice. I think I really wanna try the 2019 model even though it might be ridiculously expensive. There are two things I'm wondering about the Mazda though. Maybe someone can help me. 1) I had the impression that the manual gear stick had a lot of friction. In my current old beater I can shift into gear by basically flicking the stick with a finger. in the Mazda I had to more or less really push the stick. Is this a general Mazda thing? The car had just 3k km on the odometer, might the stick loosen up after a while? 2) armrest. The Mazda I sat in and the ones I see on photos never have an armrest like I know them from other cars. Other cars have armrests more or less at elbow height. In the 3 the armrest was lower than the gearshift even. Are there good aftermarket options or ways to raise the armrest? I like to have it at office chair armrest height.
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Dec 11, 2018 21:32
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Was the car warmed up sufficiently? My MS3 is a little harder to get into gear when it's cold out and the car has been sitting overnight. Suspension chat: I'm hearing a lot of clunks in my car. I need to pull out the spare tire, jack, etc. And make sure it's not just junk shifting around. Assuming it isn't, at 80k+ miles should I be considering replacing the front lower control arms and bushings at the same time that I do the struts and upper strut mounts/bearings? I've found a few threads of people talking about buying the OEM LCA and then cutting or removing the bushings and pressing in Whiteline poly ones. This seems really tedious to me and more effort than I probably want to expend, but I'm not sure if this increases long term durability, significant increase instability or handling, etc. Do y'all have any opinions on this?
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Dec 12, 2018 00:11
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MetaJew posted:Not too too hard. Make sure you actually have the right length belts. Buy OEM if possible so you don't gently caress around for two hours with a belt that's too short but claims to fit. Have a second pair of hands to help you install or guide it from above. Hmm. Dang, honestly if this was summer I'd probably take it on but something about busted knuckles and sub-zero temperature just doesn't sit well with me right now.
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Dec 12, 2018 02:27
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2016 3s GT. About half the time, the car gps doesn't work and just gives me the compass and says I haven't purchased gps. I've tried removing and reinserting the SD card but other than that I'm at a loss. Also, I live in the middle of nowhere. I'm gonna have to make the trek to a dealership aren't I? Related: if I do the Android Auto upgrade at the dealership does that replace whatever module might be defective and I can kill two birds with one stone?
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Dec 13, 2018 15:58
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I never updated the thread on my ongoing over-volting woes with my 6. After being ready to set fire to the car and talking through it with my brother in law we decided it still had to be alternator related. I found that Autozone sells a "brand new" alternator that is not a remanned unit and not a ~$400 Mazda OE alternator so I decided to give that one shot and if that didn't work I was going to be done with the car. I swapped out the third? reman'd alternator on Saturday for the new one on Saturday. It has been ~75 miles since and there has been no problems to report and everything appears to be working correctly. That must have meant that all of the reman'd alternators had bad voltage regulators. The car has left such a bad taste in my mouth this will likely be put on the chopping block come spring. KakerMix's Japanese import thread has me decided I need something cool and right hand drive and maybe diesel? to be my cool beater.
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Dec 13, 2018 18:37
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regulargonzalez posted:2016 3s GT. About half the time, the car gps doesn't work and just gives me the compass and says I haven't purchased gps. I've tried removing and reinserting the SD card but other than that I'm at a loss. Also, I live in the middle of nowhere. I'm gonna have to make the trek to a dealership aren't I? Related: if I do the Android Auto upgrade at the dealership does that replace whatever module might be defective and I can kill two birds with one stone? I'd say the problem is most likely with the SD card reader and the AA/CarPlay replaces the USB hub and SD card reader so it has a good chance of fixing things with the factory nav. Somewhat Heroic posted:The car has left such a bad taste in my mouth this will likely be put on the chopping block come spring. KakerMix's Japanese import thread has me decided I need something cool and right hand drive and maybe diesel? to be my cool beater. Out of the frying pan into the fire - ex Japan diesels are a real crapshoot and definitely not something that should be relied on to be anything beyond a toy.
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Dec 13, 2018 18:46
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Parts store alternators are notoriously bad. Autocomplete even wrote that sentence for me.
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Dec 13, 2018 19:53
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MetaJew posted:Suspension chat: So, I'm doing a kitchen remodel right now (and appliances and faucets are loving expensive), so suspension refresh might not happen until sometime in early 2019. But, have any of y'all done LCAs, rear trailing arm bushings, and any other related stuff? Does someone have the rear trailing arm bushing press/removal tool?
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Dec 14, 2018 03:59
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Is a cheapy Walmart code reader going to be enough to check a check engine light? Just popped on, need to make sure it’s nothing devastating. Normal shop won’t be an option for a bit.
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Dec 15, 2018 02:19
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Is a cheapy Walmart code reader going to be enough to check a check engine light? Just popped on, need to make sure it’s nothing devastating. Normal shop won’t be an option for a bit. Yea, but most auto parts chains will scan it for free.
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Dec 15, 2018 02:23
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MetaJew posted:So, I'm doing a kitchen remodel right now (and appliances and faucets are loving expensive), so suspension refresh might not happen until sometime in early 2019. But, have any of y'all done LCAs, rear trailing arm bushings, and any other related stuff? Does someone have the rear trailing arm bushing press/removal tool? 80k miles seems a little low to need to replace control arm bushings, but maybe someone more knowledgeable on that can respond. Never replaced them myself, but I'm only at 60k.
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Dec 15, 2018 02:44
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I'm probably overreacting but I did the rear sway end links, which seemed sloppy, but that did t fix the clunk in the rear. In the front the strut upper bearing is clunking at the least. It just seems convenient to do the LCAs and other stuff? Idk. If I keep the car long enough to need a new clutch, the driverside axle seal on the trans also needs to be replaced. I just need my friend to go ahead and get the two/four post lift he has been planning on so I can inspect stuff more easily.
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Dec 15, 2018 07:35
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Today’s eBay code “PICKUPSALE” takes the 2014+ CarPlay retrofit kit to $132. I guess it’s time to find a good howto.
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Dec 15, 2018 17:37
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eddiewalker posted:Today’s eBay code “PICKUPSALE” takes the 2014+ CarPlay retrofit kit to $132. I guess it’s time to find a good howto. I've been on the Internet since 1994. This finally caused me to create an eBay account in the year of our lord 2018. Thanks for the tip! ...but eBay can still suck my dick. Edit: Here's a how-to copied from earlier in the thread: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op6A5_e3ncU Fabulousity fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Dec 15, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 22:57
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Fabulousity posted:I've been on the Internet since 1994. This finally caused me to create an eBay account in the year of our lord 2018. I just did a ton of reading. Here's the exhaustive howto with all update files and official docs linked. https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2018-mazda-3-skyactiv-audio-electronics/230249-genuine-carplay-android-auto-all-here-now.html If you're currently on a firmware pre-v59, make sure to install the MazdaAIO ID7_recovery scripts before updating to v70. That keeps your ability to install tweaks later (like removing onscreen disclaimers and allowing touchscreen access while moving) If you don't install the recovery scripts, you'd have to hack in a serial adapter to do so. https://mazdatweaks.com
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Dec 15, 2018 23:32
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Mine came with v70 firmware... how nice are the tweaks? I can definitely see the touchscreen one, but what else is there? The site seems to be assuming a lot of background.
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Dec 16, 2018 17:55
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mekilljoydammit posted:Mine came with v70 firmware... how nice are the tweaks? I can definitely see the touchscreen one, but what else is there? The site seems to be assuming a lot of background. I’ve been running with CMU tweaks since week 1 with the car in 2014, so I don’t remember all of the annoyances. I don’t know if I’d bother frankensteining in a TTL adapter if I were already on v70, but if you’re on >59, I think it’s worth popping in a prepped USB stick for a minute to keep your options open.
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Dec 16, 2018 18:07
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Yeah; even the touchscreen thing is just annoying. I'm tempted. One of the few little niggling things about what is otherwise exactly what I wanted in a practical DD - with the 2.5 and the stick the 3 scoots pretty darn well.
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Dec 16, 2018 18:35
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Code is for catalytic converter (below threshold). Run cleaner and see what happens?
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Dec 16, 2018 20:57
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CarPlay is cool. Install is easy. Dropping the one bolt holding the CMU down into the dash sucks.
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Dec 20, 2018 17:22
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Code is for catalytic converter (below threshold). Run cleaner and see what happens? P0420? This gets set when the computer sees insufficient signal delta between the pre and post-catalytic converter O2 sensors. If you're lucky its a bad O2 sensor, if not the catalytic converter will likely need to be replaced.
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Dec 20, 2018 17:30
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Geoj posted:P0420? P0421, 3 times over. Warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold. The light has gone on and off a couple of times (once after a fill-up), felt to me maybe like trash in there that was floating/obstructing, then moving out of the way? Totally uninformed thought. Either way the additive can’t hurt, add at 1/4 tank and run high RPM for a bit, then on your way. What causes this, cheap gas or something? 92k miles, fwiw. REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Dec 20, 2018 |
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Dec 20, 2018 17:53
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P0421 is similar to P0420 but its more of "poo poo is failing" than "poo poo has failed" message. Basically, it means while the computer sees sufficient difference between the two sensors the gap is beginning to close and the catalytic converter is no longer functioning optimally. Same prognosis as before, but you may find it goes away if you replace your spark plugs assuming they haven't been changed recently. A poorly performing cylinder (so functional, but incomplete burn of the fuel/air mixture) could give you a false positive.
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Dec 20, 2018 19:10
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If you're not getting other codes, I'd venture to say it's probably the cat. DTC is saying it's not warming up the cat fast enough. You could have lovely combustion or an exhaust leak before the cat maybe, but that would probably also set other faults.
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Dec 20, 2018 19:52
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It doesn’t throw the code until 5-10 minutes into driving, if that means anything. I guess still try the cleaner and see? I’ll be off for a few days so if it shits the bed I’ll at least be at home nearer my mechanic. I assume it wouldn’t just be a loose sensor or something, right? Edit: plugs were changed when I had the fuel injectors, etc cleaned this past summer (at least it feels like it was just this past summer).
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Dec 20, 2018 21:14
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Its not going to hurt anything but there's an almost zero percent chance of it fixing the problem. If the O2 sensors are "dirty" they tend to get cleaned off quickly by the high-temperature exhaust stream they live in. Anything that could potentially be deposited on the sensor and foul it would eventually be burned off.
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Dec 20, 2018 22:10
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Geoj posted:Its not going to hurt anything but there's an almost zero percent chance of it fixing the problem. This is typically accomplished with a long highway drive. If you have a lot of short commutes the build-up can be much more severe. I speak from experience, although with many 90s and older cars. I've flagged a P0420\1 before and discovered a hole had rusted into the intake pipe between the two converters on my Eclipse; so be thankful it likely isn't that.
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Dec 20, 2018 22:53
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I actually do almost exclusively long, high-speed drives (350 miles each way, 70-80 mph, twice every 2 weeks), which probably means I’m closer to SOL than an easy fix, eh? I was hoping to not have to keep putting money into this thing but oh well. If I knew more I could try and examine myself, but probably a waste of time at this point.
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Dec 20, 2018 23:28
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Has anyone replaced their spare tire? 2008 MS3 - Not finding much info on where I'd even start doing this research 
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Dec 21, 2018 00:11
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air- posted:Has anyone replaced their spare tire? 2008 MS3 - Not finding much info on where I'd even start doing this research Any idea what the size is? Tirerack doesn't list it for your model, but my non-Mazdaspeed model comes up with just one tire: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...erformance=TEMP Good idea based on the age.
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Dec 21, 2018 00:24
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Yeah, it's probably getting about time to replace that tire. I think Discount Tire refuses to air up/touch 10+ year old spares. Mine's almost there.
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Dec 21, 2018 00:36
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MetaJew posted:Yeah, it's probably getting about time to replace that tire. I think Discount Tire refuses to air up/touch 10+ year old spares. Mine's almost there. Went in to a Discount Tire for a rotation yesterday and they pointed that out. Offered to handle replacing my spare at $270, ha gently caress no.
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Dec 21, 2018 02:27
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air- posted:Went in to a Discount Tire for a rotation yesterday and they pointed that out. Offered to handle replacing my spare at $270, ha gently caress no. Good lord, seriously? I guess a spare might be the one tire I'd be willing to mess with the hassle of either mounting and balancing myself, or ordering off Tire Rack and taking it to an independent shop.
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Dec 21, 2018 02:32
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You've got to figure that very, very few people replace their spares for any reason. There's no economies of scale.
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Dec 21, 2018 05:18
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air- posted:Went in to a Discount Tire for a rotation yesterday and they pointed that out. Offered to handle replacing my spare at $270, ha gently caress no. Yeah they did the same for me, wanted to sell me a full size tire and wheel 
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Dec 21, 2018 05:33
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It was far cheaper for me to put a regular tire on the inexplicably full-size temporary-use spare wheel when I shredded it on my Ranger, due to extreme age. Having done that, I still wouldn't proactively replace a spare that isn't part of my tire rotation. I'd just treat it as a tool to maybe avoid a tow to a tire shop.
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Dec 21, 2018 06:29
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