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MRC48B posted:This is probably Heresy that will get me burned at the stake, but Fluke is nice, but overpriced. The way my wife put it: “I’d rather you buy the better one than hear you complain later.” Thank you! I ordered the MA445, and I think it’ll do fine.
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Dec 13, 2018 06:51
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I agree with Fluke being overpriced, but they do make a good product. My work meter is an Ideal and it's a POS. My personal meter is a crappy Fieldpiece that I love cause it has a clip to hold one of the probes on the side, real nice for when there's nowhere to set or clip the meter while troubleshooting. Also has an analog scale, and measures microfarads.
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Dec 13, 2018 13:26
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Fluke is great if you need to make really precise reading, especially for sensitive controls stuff, bit otherwise kinda unnecessary for the average person. I use a UEI Phoenix and I've been very happy with it. Especially because it displays Amps at the same time as everything else.
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Dec 13, 2018 19:35
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ExplodingSims posted:Fluke is great if you need to make really precise reading, especially for sensitive controls stuff, bit otherwise kinda unnecessary for the average person. Don’t make the mistake of buying a low-end Fluke and thinking you’ll get precision. At the low-end, Fluke’s standout feature is safety, and they lack precision to cut cost and/or avoid cannibalism of their more expensive products.
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Dec 14, 2018 01:32
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now that I'm a dad and a homeowner i need a tool belt for all my dad and homeowner projects. what's a good one to get?
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Dec 14, 2018 05:29
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Arson Daily posted:now that I'm a dad and a homeowner i need a tool belt for all my dad and homeowner projects. what's a good one to get? AWP leather or poly at Lowes are pretty common and inexpensive. Bucket Boss also makes a surprisingly good tool belt that's on Amazon.
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Dec 15, 2018 04:42
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Krakkles posted:Good enough for me. I was leaning toward them, because I couldn’t find an equivalent Fluke (or, the closest I found was 2.5x the price with lesser features) and while I think 100A is enough for most automotive needs, I do also work on house electrics and better safe than sorry. Got the meter, when it’s in voltage measurement, the indicator varies when I move the meter body or the leads. (It seems like small amounts - maybe 1mV in DC, 0.05V in AC.) That’s ... not normal, right? I tried pulling the batteries out and looking for a reset procedure in the manual, as well as randomly pushing buttons, it seems to do it no matter what. It seems like measured voltages are correct when I measure relatively known devices (M12 battery, car battery, etc), but it seemed weird that it was doing that. Is it just a combination of relatively tight sensitivity and a margin of error that’s measurable? Edit: and, amps DC shows the thing I measured earlier at all times. It’s not in max/min mode, putting it in relative mode moves it to zero but doesn’t seem measure correctly. I’m thinking lemon. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 16, 2018 |
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Dec 16, 2018 21:15
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Krakkles posted:I’m thinking lemon. All meters will do that.
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Dec 16, 2018 23:06
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pazrs posted:All meters will do that. I'm sure I'm missing something, but I don't get it.
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Dec 16, 2018 23:23
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Krakkles posted:Ok. Am I doing something wrong to measure amps, then? I turned it on just now, it shows 00.84A, sitting by itself. Clamped around the cable charging an iPhone, 00.82A. Clamped around headphone cables not plugged into a power source, 00.83A. Putting it in relative zero mode (I.e., zero it with nothing in the clamp) shows 00.00A, then wavers between -00.01A and 00.03A, independent of what's in the clamps (nothing, charge cable, headphone cable). in order to properly measure amperage you need to have the clamp over the current carrying conductor only. Having it around the hot and neutral (as in the case of the iphone charger) you will not get a reading.
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Dec 17, 2018 00:16
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iForge posted:in order to properly measure amperage you need to have the clamp over the current carrying conductor only. Having it around the hot and neutral (as in the case of the iphone charger) you will not get a reading. Edit: \/\/\/ This is hugely helpful. It makes a lot more sense understanding how it actually works. Thank you, too! Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 00:19
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The clamp measures magnetic fields. It’s sensitive enough to measure the geomagnetic field, the felt strength of which varies with the orientation of the clamp (as if it were a compass). For accurate measurements, put the clamp in place and zero it before turning on whatever you’re measuring. If you have to measure a live system, zero the meter in the same orientation it’ll be in when attached, then attach it. If two parallel wires are carrying current in opposite directions, their fields will counteract each other. You can measure off either the positive or negative conductor, but you have to physically separate the pair so that only one passes through the clamp. The clamp should have an arrow marked on it that designates the direction that conventional current flows for a positive reading.
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Dec 17, 2018 00:48
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Just wanted to give a plug here for Asimeto measuring products, or at least their standard verniers. I've always been a Mitutoyo guy since I started my career 27 years ago. I had the same set of 8" verniers I've used for, no joke, 22+ years, but I misplaced at an end user call this summer but could never track down exactly where... so eventually had to bite the bullet and order a set. I was going to buy another Mitutoyo or maybe try a Starrett, but on a whim bought a set of Asimeto 8" thumblock. Cost was around 60%+ of Mitutoyo, but so far pleasantly surprised especially for the $$. Come with a calibration certificate that I need for iso and they seem to be very consistent regardless of where I measure on the jaws when I tested measuring shims. Compare favorably to the Mitutoyos I've always previously used and have no problem recommending them. Are they better than Mitutoyo? I don't know if I would go that far but I would say they are as good for my used in this particular style at least.
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Dec 18, 2018 17:05
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 Halfords is doing its 'better than half price' sale on its professional socket sets right now
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Dec 18, 2018 19:29
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I paid $67 for a 33mm deep wall impact socket on the strap on truck today. I have problems.
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Dec 19, 2018 01:30
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What the heck uses 33mm?
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Dec 19, 2018 13:05
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C-Bangin' it 
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I feel like that's close to the size of the pitman arm nut on third-gen F-body steering boxes, but that sure as hell doesn't need a deep-well.
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Dec 19, 2018 14:41
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Could be an axle nut?
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Dec 19, 2018 15:39
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Colostomy Bag posted:What the heck uses 33mm? Someone feeling very spiteful.
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Dec 19, 2018 15:57
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Tractor axles!
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Dec 19, 2018 18:36
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Welp, reached sort of a new low with a HF hand tool. Was using a HF dead blow and noticed hey, the 'Pittsburgh Pro' sticker/sku is peeling off. So what the hell, yank the drat sticker off. Huh, yanking it off pulled the plug out where they fill the thing up with buckshot. One can only laugh.
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Dec 21, 2018 16:52
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And I was thinking about getting one of those!
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Dec 21, 2018 19:02
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Hey, at least it's a chinese tool that's SUPPOSED to have lead in it.
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Dec 21, 2018 21:07
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boxen posted:Hey, at least it's a chinese tool that's SUPPOSED to have lead in it. It is probably depleted uranium.
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Dec 21, 2018 21:19
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If it stayed inside that genuinely would be better.
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Dec 21, 2018 22:17
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slidebite posted:Just wanted to give a plug here for Asimeto measuring products, or at least their standard verniers. Colostomy Bag posted:Welp, reached sort of a new low with a HF hand tool.
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Dec 22, 2018 00:51
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InitialDave posted:What were you expecting inside? I think most dead blows are shot aren't they? I'm pretty sure they were expecting the insides to stay inside.
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Dec 22, 2018 01:13
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Uthor posted:I'm pretty sure they were expecting the insides to stay inside.
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Dec 22, 2018 01:32
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I guess this proves that, that which is dead CAN be killed.
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Dec 22, 2018 02:12
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Yeah, never realized a sticker on a hand tool was so important. Should have a warning like a mattress.
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Dec 22, 2018 16:45
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InitialDave posted:Thank you for using the term vernier to refer to something that's actually a loving vernier.  haha no worries, glad I didn't trigger you!As an aside, I am a bit of a weirdo in the sense that I actively don't care for digital calipers. I think it is a combination of me learning to do accurate measurements (well, to 3 decimal places) on a vernier and I like to be able to immediately tell if I am looking at something manufactured based on metric or imperial measurements without having to push a button flipping between the scales. Also, using digital calipers drift from zero has hosed me up more than once. There is also the practical side that they are thin enough to go in my work case without being turned on every god drat time 
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Dec 22, 2018 17:13
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Yeah, to be honest, I've just gotten lazy. Similar to how I get out of practice holding a mic properly, really.
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Dec 22, 2018 17:58
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I like digital ones because I can stick them places where I can't see the readout, press "zero", remove them, then close them to read the negative value. It's come in useful quite often, lately. But, I'm not a machinist. Just usually need a "good enough" value.
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Dec 22, 2018 20:05
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I've forgotten, but at one time, knew how to read a mic. Vernier calipers on the other hand always drove me crazy because I couldn't.
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Dec 22, 2018 20:14
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Same, i learnt to read mics and calipers when i went through trade training for the RAF.....and proceeded to not need to for 20 years! Just bought a little lathe to dick round with, so i'm re-learning all the things now.
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Dec 24, 2018 14:14
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Krakkles posted:Ok. Am I doing something wrong to measure amps, then? I turned it on just now, it shows 00.84A, sitting by itself. Clamped around the cable charging an iPhone, 00.82A. Clamped around headphone cables not plugged into a power source, 00.83A. Putting it in relative zero mode (I.e., zero it with nothing in the clamp) shows 00.00A, then wavers between -00.01A and 00.03A, independent of what's in the clamps (nothing, charge cable, headphone cable). In addition to what Platystemon said, sometimes there is residual magnetic flux left on the clamp. I'll snap the jaws opened and closed a couple times to knock it off, then rezero.
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Dec 24, 2018 16:08
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:In addition to what Platystemon said, sometimes there is residual magnetic flux left on the clamp. I'll snap the jaws opened and closed a couple times to knock it off, then rezero. lol, im glad that actually does something, because I usually snip snap the clamp the same way I would with tongs while cooking, just to make sure they work I guess?
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Dec 24, 2018 23:50
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I've got a Fluke 324 (i think) that I found in a dropceiling at work, it's pretty drat nice. I think they're only like $130 or so. It has an amp clamp I've never used and a temp probe too. They probably make a similar but substantially cheaper one without the amp clamp. I've lately been a big fan of the "buy quality, buy once" mentality wrt tools.
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Dec 25, 2018 05:02
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berth ell pup posted:I've got a Fluke 324 (i think) that I found in a dropceiling at work, it's pretty drat nice. I think they're only like $130 or so. It has an amp clamp I've never used and a temp probe too. They probably make a similar but substantially cheaper one without the amp clamp. I've lately been a big fan of the "buy quality, buy once" mentality wrt tools. Have to Factor in if you a habit of leaving tools in ceilings too. 
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Dec 25, 2018 20:46
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I could do with getting a new Dremel-type tool, but I can't really bring myself to spend Dremel money, the Sealey E5188 looks reasonable, and is more powerful (170W vs 135W) than a lot of the generic units. Thoughts?
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Dec 25, 2018 21:04
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