|
I'm going to be swapping out the speakers in a CRV, adding an HU, and throwing in an under-seat sub I have lying around from a previous car. Most of the major components are on order, and I have many of the minor ones but am finishing shopping for a few remainders. One that I'm stuck on is the fuse holder, and specifically which fuses I'll need (in terms of rating.) The powered sub is 600 W max, 300 W RMS, has its own 15 A blade fuse, and specifies 8 AWG power cabling, which I guess can carry 30-40 A? I know it depends on temperature and length/resistance, etc. I'm just not sure what the proper fuse rating is. 12 V @ 15 A is 180 W and is nowhere near the nominal power values provided by the manufacturer, although I suspect most of the time it won't be using anywhere near that much power (but then again I may be completely wrong.)snugglz posted:while I’m here, any recommendations on 6.5” components? I heard some good things about Polk stuff in the last few pages... I used to run JL stuff but would like to keep the speakers around $100 I believe these are the ones I just ordered from eBay a couple days ago; with that 15% off discount they were <$50 for two pair. I don't know when I'll get the chance to install them but I figure they're worth a shot.
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2018 04:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 00:16 |
|
|
Polk is pretty decent, at least on subs and coaxials. Especially for the money. I have a Polk sub that's now been in 4 cars over the past decade. Still hits hard, surround still hasn't ripped. 5/5, especially for $25 (open box from Best Buy's cowboom.com site).
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2018 10:15
|
|
|
So, uh, this seems like a really slow-moving thread. :/ Nobody can help me with my fuse question above? How about another question: I just installed the new HU, but because the weather's so lovely I'm not going to work on the speakers/sub until the spring. The new (Kenwood Exelon) HU is really nice, and it's way more functional than the 15-year-old factory unit. What I'm experiencing, though, with the combination of the new HU and the factory speakers, feels like the effects of too much treble, i.e. that ear pain, except I'm not able to get rid of it even after playing around with all the settings. The HU has a graphic equalizer and a ton of audio adjustments including special effects (e.g. "bass boost" and so on,) and things like adjustments to the distance to each speaker (I could link the manual to show you exactly what it's capable of.) So does anyone know what's going on here? The original audio system was just kind of muddy, but never painful to listen to, regardless of volume.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2018 08:17
|
|
|
Watts in terms of speaker output don't correlate to watts needed @ 12V (really, 13.8V) to make that power. Also, cheaper amps almost always (massively) overstate their peak output. Look at RMS, not peak. My crappy Crunch amp claims 1100 watts peak, on the packaging; I've yet to find anything regarding RMS, but given the 15 amp fuse on it, I'm going to guess it falls way, way short of "1100 watts" (it's also been pushing a sub with a published 720 watt peak input/~300 RMS for 7+ years). That blade fuse is meant to protect the amp in case of a dead short on the output side; it'll allow higher bursts of current through for short periods of time. The fuse that comes with a wiring kit is designed to protect the wiring, not the amp; it'll be specced for the 8 gauge wire. Ideally, you would downsize the fuse on the wire to match or slightly exceed what's on the amp (or if multiple amps, their combined fuse ratings). But to be totally honest, not many people do that. Did your car have any kind of optional high end audio system, or just the basic Honda system? Do you have separate tweeters in the door panels? (they're usually in the far corner of the front doors, where your mirror adjustments would be if you had manual mirrors - commonly found on EX models, sometimes on LX as well). You may just try turning the treble way down in the graphic EQ for now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2018 08:36
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:So, uh, this seems like a really slow-moving thread. :/ Nobody can help me with my fuse question above? I'm fairly sure I used to typically fuse 8AWG with 20A. It's been a while, but that feels about right to me. 40A for 4AWG, 20 for 8. If it blows the first time you use it, I'd probably upgrade to 4AWG anyway. As for your EQ issues, you should be able to overcome the "ear pain" by loving with the upper-mids. High frequencies won't be causing that, the abrasive hearing loss-inducing frequencies are closer to the middle of the spectrum. If you've been trying to remove it using the higher frequency sliders, that might explain your problem. It'll sound muddier, but it will still ear-gently caress your head. The factory HU in most cars is generally voiced and tuned to not blow the factory speakers or your ears, and it was probably EQd specifically for those drivers. An aftermarket HU will usually be EQ'd close to flat, meaning you will need to gently caress with it if the factory speakers aren't voiced very pleasantly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2018 08:38
|
|
|
Thanks for the quick replies, guys!STR posted:Watts in terms of speaker output don't correlate to watts needed @ 12V (really, 13.8V) to make that power. Also, cheaper amps almost always (massively) overstate their peak output. Look at RMS, not peak. So the amp/sub combo is a Boss "BASS600" that was originally in my first Miata. It's nothing special (and hasn't even been used in several years) but like I said it was lying around, so I'm going to give it a shot [eventually]. As above, it's rated for 300 W RMS, but that may be an exaggeration. I wasn't going to buy a kit, I was just going to get some wire and a fuse holder and the rest of the components separately...but since you gave me the idea, I found this, which is more components than I was looking at for less money, so yeah.... In that case, it comes with a 50 A fuse, and based on what you're saying, something closer to 30 A would be an appropriate downsize for the needs of that amp? My car has tweeters near the A pillars, and I think the original HU was a 6-CD changer, but there was no factory sub and I can't find many other details about the equipped audio system. (Edmunds.com used to be real helpful for looking up car specs, but they've hosed it all up....) Don Dongington posted:I'm fairly sure I used to typically fuse 8AWG with 20A. It's been a while, but that feels about right to me. 40A for 4AWG, 20 for 8. If it blows the first time you use it, I'd probably upgrade to 4AWG anyway. So I'm going to have to adjust the EQ for the current speakers, and then again for the new ones? And it makes sense that the upper end frequencies aren't relevant; I'm in my mid-30s so my upper range is probably limited to like 14-16k. Now I'm familiar with the concepts here, but I'm trying to do this all by ear (and they do indeed feel like they've been hosed :/) and I'm more scientifically-oriented than I am artistic, so I'd prefer to look at graphs and stuff. I found this article which seems like it will be helpful to normalizing the system, but unfortunately all the software mentioned is iOS only and I use Android.  Any recommendations for non-Apple (i.e. Android, Windows, or Web-based) equivalents for the RTA and pink noise generator?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2018 09:53
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:Any recommendations for non-Apple (i.e. Android, Windows, or Web-based) equivalents for the RTA and pink noise generator? Yup, download Audacity for freeeeeeeeeee for whatever computer you have handy. Open it up, hit 'generate' at the top, click 'noise' > 'pink', adjust the duration you want and hit ok. After a few seconds you'll have a pink noise track. Hit 'file' > 'export audio' and export as a wav. (you can export as mp3 if you add the lame mp3 add on but whatever). Stick it on a USB/burn to CD and you're away. You can do the same for specific tones 'generate' > tone > sine (adjust frequency you want), length and then hit go. Handy for testing crossover points. EQ apps are hit and miss depending on your phone, some have garbage mics and they're not reference quality anyway. Download a bunch of free ones...
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2018 18:31
|
|
|
Opinions/suggestions on under-seat subwoofers...? I'd like to add a little extra bass but give no fucks about sick bass drops or making windows rattle for blocks in all directions. Vehicle in question is an '08.5 MS3, not considering the factory Bose under-seat sub, from my understanding its lower quality than what Walmart sells. e: car came with non-premium audio and has an aftermarket head unit with preamp outs so no fuckery there. Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Dec 3, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2018 18:49
|
|
|
It looks like the sub I bought is out of stock, but I would just throw it out there as - I wouldn't be afraid of an all in one, nor a relatively inexpensive one - this one was $120. I've been very happy with it, have no problems with it, and it's well more capable than I need (I think I have it running at <40% capacity - it's turned waaaaay down). My needs were similar - trying to make it sound better, but not competing in SPL or interested in making everything rattle. Edit: Looks like there's similar models from other brands on amazon, I'd pick the one that looks like it'll fit + has reviews you're comfortable with. Alternatively, sonicelectronix has a similar planetaudio model (not sure what the difference is ...) for $99. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Dec 3, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2018 21:13
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:So the amp/sub combo is a Boss "BASS600" that was originally in my first Miata. It's nothing special (and hasn't even been used in several years) but like I said it was lying around, so I'm going to give it a shot [eventually]. As above, it's rated for 300 W RMS, but that may be an exaggeration. To be honest, it's probably more like 50-75W RMS. Boss and Dual are the lowest end of the name brands you'll find in big box stores. Don't get me wrong, I've used their stuff (both companies), and it serves its purpose fine at the price point they sell at, but don't believe anything they claim about power output.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2018 08:12
|
|
|
Some of the cheap class D stuff is actually underrated at certain ohm loads. I wouldn't trust any of the AB stuff though, it's a lot more expensive to make power efficiently that way. The newer Class D amps tend to be around 80-90% efficient into 4ohm loads though, which means it's relatively trivial to make 3/4/500W RMS for under 100 bucks!! If you can handle his weird mannerisms, bigdwiz on YouTube basically puts a bunch of cheap and quirky amps through his amp dyno all day for fun, and films it. He's done a bunch of Boss and Ignite cheapies, and a few of the Chinese mini amps too. It surprised me how many of the $100 class D amps actually made kilowatt numbers at 1ohm.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2018 23:24
|
|
|
I've done it. I I broke the voice coil on my ~18 year old, once rebuilt MTX 7000 12" ~420w rms 4ohm sub. The smell is terrible! The newer DREDD soundtrack has been pushing my sub hard and I lost all bass this afternoon coming back from lunch. When I parked my car I popped the trunk and was confident the sub was done when I saw smoke coming out of the port hole. I pulled the sub and have 00.3 ohm at the terminals  I recently upgraded my amp which I new was going to increase the chances of finally destroying the sub. I upgraded from a generic 'california' 1000w ~400rms amp to an Alpine 5 channel that says it can do 500w rms 2/4 ohm. I got about 4 months out of the sub after the new amp and could definitely tell it was pushing more air. The last upgrade was finally strapping the box down instead of letting it bounce around for years.My old box is a custom built ported box handmade using ancient box design apps, but it never really got 'low' enough for me. I'm leaning towards another ported box, but I don't know If I should stick with MTX, Kicker or ? I'm not really brand focused. I was thinking something that does a minimum ~750w rms 2ohm any brand should work if I wanted to put something back into the same box? If I'm looking for a sub that is $300+ I'm not seeing what any of the specific differences are? Car is a sound dampened Civic coupe, (extra carpet padding, doors, trunk, trim all lined with knockoff dynomat, foam on all the buzzy parts down to licenses plate and trunk baffle vent).
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2018 08:33
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Opinions/suggestions on under-seat subwoofers...? I got a Cerwin Vega one in my car and its perfect for the 'I want to feel the music a bit and add some bass' idea. it doesnt get super deep, but deep enough that Pendulum sounds good. put it under the drivers seat, and it'll add plenty of bass vibrations. it does sound a bit boomy when sitting in the passenger seat, but in the drivers position it sounds as good as my old car with a 10" in the trunk without the space sacrifice.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2018 04:39
|
|
|
STR posted:To be honest, it's probably more like 50-75W RMS. Boss and Dual are the lowest end of the name brands you'll find in big box stores. Yeah, I'm sure the numbers are exaggerated but since it's already paid for I can't complain. --------------------------------------------------------- As for the previously described discomfort with my new HU in the otherwise stock system, I haven't had time to properly calibrate the equalizer, but I did fiddle some more with the settings, and unfortunately I haven't been able to eliminate the painful listening conditions and make the system as comfortable as it was with the stock HU. Even with all of the equalizer bands bottomed out and the volume low enough that I can barely hear it, there's still this persistent pressure/pain that you'd otherwise associate with having the treble too high. It disappears with no audio output of course, but also when the "attenuate" button is pressed which results in an immediate drastic decrease in volume. On top of that, I noticed that the system is still outputting prominently at the low end, and this is again with no subwoofer present, only the stock 6.5"s in the doors, (plus the two tweeters in front.) It's not booming bass or anything like that, but it and the persistent, hard-to-pinpoint ear discomfort are the most prominent things in this condition. Could there be some mismatch between the output of the new HU and the stock speakers intended for a crappier OEM HU? I can't find any details about the stock components or what they're rated for. I should also point out that the 2nd-gen CRV has weird airflow/pressurization; when driving at speed with some of the windows down in some configurations, it causes intense buffeting that feels like your eardrums are being battered; you need to have the windows open in a specific way that allows the air to flow directly through the car. I tried adjusting them to that state while the audio was playing on my drive home last night, and I think that improved the comfort level, but it was well below freezing and I couldn't maintain that for any more than a brief period. Could the bizarre pressurization of the cabin be contributing to the issue? Also, a couple of hours ago I further played with the settings and noticed a couple of things. First, the HU has a ton of configuration options including things like "tweeter size," and in this case I had it set to "small" because that's probably accurate for those tiny dash/a-pillar tweeters, however when I changed it to "large" I think their output decreased (and improved the comfort level) which makes sense (although see below about the wiring.) Furthermore, I experimented with the fader, and moving the bias all the way to the rear eliminated most of the high end, and had the opposite effect with front bias. Is it possible the factory tweeters are the culprit in all of this? They don't have their own channels to the HU, they very clearly must be connected to the front channels; is it possible they're not high-pass filtered and are instead outputting the entire range? That's kind of what this whole experience is like: listening to audio at high volume through a small driver like on your phone or one of those crappy tiny Bluetooth speakers (or laptop/monitor speakers, etc.), where there are no low frequencies and the treble makes your ears hurt. Does that sound like it could be the cause of this whole ordeal? The tweeters are being overdriven (by a new, more powerful HU) at levels high enough to hear the main drivers but the problem is ameliorated at very low volume? I can actually pretty easily just disconnect the tweeters, and I had no intention of replacing them anyway. I'll do that later today and see if anything changes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2018 21:56
|
|
|
It definitely sounds like you need to add high-pass filtering on the feed to those tweeters - trying to run frequencies they can't produce through them would absolutely do what you're describing (it's exactly what crappy bluetooth/monitor/laptop speakers have issue with). I'm not sure which Kenwood Exelon you've got, but most modern head units have some function for adjusting outputs to specific speakers. If it has an auto-setup, I'd even start with that - on my Pioneer headunit, it does a great job of setting up everything except the sub, which just then needs small adjustments (likely moreso preference adjustments than "correctness" adjustments).
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2018 23:14
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:I love my MVH-2400NEX. It works great. I will probably go back and add the Maestro unit if/when i upgrade the speakers. If you have this out again there is a 50 cent SD card inside that it stores the OS on. You could consider replacing it. It often fails after 3 years, ask me how I know. You can download the OS and load it on a reputable brand SD card. Bonus it will load up faster.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2018 00:26
|
|
|
Elephanthead posted:If you have this out again there is a 50 cent SD card inside that it stores the OS on. You could consider replacing it. It often fails after 3 years, ask me how I know. You can download the OS and load it on a reputable brand SD card. Bonus it will load up faster. Is this a problem with the AVH4000NEX?
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2018 00:38
|
|
|
Interesting. I suspect an OS issue with my 4200NEX. It sometimes takes a few minutes to start after it receives accessory power.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2018 01:47
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:It definitely sounds like you need to add high-pass filtering on the feed to those tweeters - trying to run frequencies they can't produce through them would absolutely do what you're describing (it's exactly what crappy bluetooth/monitor/laptop speakers have issue with). It's the dmx905s. Like I said, it does have a ton of configuration options but the tweeters must be connected to the front channels so I can't just tweak one set. I actually just went out and disconnected the tweeters - it wasn't quite as easy as that video suggested, because there's little space between the dash and the windshield, which has a pretty shallow slope back. I got the tweeter mounts open, though, and disconnected them, but I'm assuming they were installed with the dash disassembled during the initial car assembly because there's no room to work in there otherwise. I didn't spend a ton of time out there to listen to audio and experiment, though, as it's even colder than it was earlier and I'm boxed in so I couldn't go for a drive. I'll experiment further in the coming days, however.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2018 01:52
|
|
|
I’m trying to remove the car radio from a 1999 mercury sable. The din tools do not work. At all. I’ve been trying for hours. I am sure that the clips in the radio are broken. If I take a crowbar and just rip this fucker out the front will I be able to put in the aftermarket kit?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 23:33
|
|
|
DIN tools? Should be a couple of U-shaped Ford-specific wires, not the flat keys that DIN radios use.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 23:40
|
|
|
It’s the u shaped removal tool for the holes, it’s the correct tool. They don’t catch on anything, they just slide right in. This thing isn’t coming out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 23:43
|
|
|
Usually Ford stereos of that era require you to insert the tools and then pull them outwards. So push them in, then pull to the left and right and you should hear a click or pop as the catch disengages, then using the tools as handles pull the stereo out of the dash. If you can get the stock stereo out without breaking the dash surrounding it via other methods you should be fine though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 23:51
|
|
|
Android auto problems! I decided to replace the old Alpine ipod head unit on my RX7, poo poo was old an annoying at this point. I decided I wanted some navigation with Spotify in my rubber eating death box. I saw that the JVC KW-V840BT was in my budget, had android auto, spotify, and waze. How could I go wrong? I have a JVC projector, that thing kicks all kinds of rear end (like really, JVC, I know, but they can make a fine loving projector), so why not a head unit as well? This drat thing brought sound levels I didn't know existed within my 10" JL subwoofer and two Diamond (entry level) door speaker setup. With the EQ and a few of the other enhancements I was quite blown away. Like, "fuuuuck, this is what I was missing this whole loving time," kind of vibe. After fully satisfied that the blood in my ears pushed out all of the q-tip lodged ear wax I decided to check out navigation, fired up the weblink app and tried to use waze. NOPE! ERROR INCOMPATABLE, CONNECT USGB, LASDKFJLSKDFJ. The loving thing won't work with a Galaxy S9 Note. REALLY? I don't know what to do at this point, I really want the navigation. Spotify integration works fine, JVC Weblink doesn't work, nor does Android Auto. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Dec 23, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 06:22
|
|
Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
|
IOwnCalculus posted:DIN tools? Should be a couple of U-shaped Ford-specific wires, not the flat keys that DIN radios use. Ahh that's kinda lovely, nothing beats jamming your wife's favorite knife into the side of the radio to unlock it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 06:27
|
|
|
Aeka 2.0 posted:Android auto problems! I thought all the navi stuff still required the device to be attached via USB unfortunately? I could be wrong. I've got an android too with an AVH4000NEX that definitely requires you to be connected.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 07:32
|
|
|
I am connected with USB. poo poo doesnt work.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 08:35
|
|
|
Does your head unit have two USB connectors? My kenwood (same manufacturer as jvc now) unit only supports android auto on one of them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 09:14
|
|
|
It only has the one dongle. I looked on their app store and everyone is making GBS threads on it for not working. So I'm not the only one. Why is USB connectivity on phones always spotty? I tried developer mode as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 20:11
|
|
|
Are you trying to use Waze through android auto or the weblink stuff?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 20:41
|
|
|
Both apps. The weblink itself never connects to the headunit even before I try an app.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2018 23:41
|
|
|
Update. It works now. I don't know why, but it does. Weblink and Android Auto. Weblink's Waze app is scaled wrong so I'm using AA. One thing that's odd is that the resolution is not as high with AA than the native OS.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2018 06:52
|
|
|
Can someone help me muddle out what I need to make this work: I'm getting some drop in focal tweeter and woofers to replace the stock ones. No big deal there, they are designed to work with my car. I also wanted to give the stock head unit a little more power to give these speakers though. In the past when I had an Alpine radio in a diff car they had a plug and play amp that would easily boost the RMS to like 45W without having to wire to the battery. The Alpine specific version was plug and play, but I'm not sure what to do about the universal version for my new car. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091IS690TY/Focal-IS-690TOY.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html From what I understand, this product goes between the head unit and the speaker plug ins? As much as possible I'd like to avoid cutting any of the car side wires. Do I need to get some sort of harness?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 11:18
|
|
|
Unless your stock head unit has outputs for a separate factory amp offered in some upgrade packages, you will need to intercept speaker-level signals. Some cars have adapters made for them. Year and model would help (I assume its some sort of Toyota). The amp you have linked states that it accepts speaker level inputs. That will necessitate at least intercepting stock wires somewhere between the HU and speakers. If you dont want to cut stock wires you can 1. Just T splice into stock wires and run new wires to the speakers from the amp leaving the stock speaker wires unplugged and isolated. There are some good videos on unobtrusive t splicing online. 2. Make a replica loom between the stock loom and the factory HU using factory connectors and splice into that. You will need one male and one female connector matching the plug that plugs into the back of your HU. If you want to revert to stock. Just rip out the sacrificial loom along with the amp, and connect the HU and loom normally.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 22:53
|
|
|
Thanks, I wanted something like option 2. I found the reverse harnesses online so I'll order everything and figure it out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 00:16
|
|
|
Okay, yet another stupid question. GF's birthday is coming up. She has the factory stereo in her car (2005 Toyota Matrix, base as it gets model, only options are AC and CD... assuming those are even options and not standard - I'm amazed it even has a tach, that's how base it is). I already told her I was going to toss a new stereo in her car with bluetooth (both A2DP and phone calls). She said she'd prefer single DIN to get an extra storage space in the car (it's a double DIN opening), so that takes a little bit of expense off.  For whatever reason, the Pioneer head units I've had, have had terrible call quality with Bluetooth, and occasional pauses in A2DP streaming (across multiple HUs and phones). Including the DEH-9600BH I currently have in my car (originally I was going to upgrade mine and give her that, but between the call quality, and the CD player making GBS threads out a few months ago when she still listens to a lot of CDs.... not happening). It didn't happen with the one Alpine BT head unit I've had, but that was a loooong time ago. Is my experience with Pioneer and BT phone calls just a "WTF", or is it common with Pioneer? Common with all aftermarket units? Trying to stay with major brands here (Alpine, Kenwood, JVC, Pioneer). Suggestions? I looked into adding BT/Aux to the factory head unit, and it's... very hacky when it comes to the UI, and costs much more than a mid level head unit. I'm trying to spend less than $200 on Crutchfield (the basic install kit that they include for free is fine, since she doesn't have the 6 speaker system, steering wheel controls, or fancy Bose/JBL/whatever it is poo poo - don't need the "deeply discounted" install kit since her car has none of the options for that kit). We'll probably be keeping the original speakers for now (fronts may get replaced eventually, but it's not in the plan at the moment). There won't ever be any amps, subs, XM, backup camera, or anything fancy hooked up. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Dec 31, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 09:44
|
|
|
I can offer you two pieces of advice: first, I added a GROM audio adapter to my old Miata's stock HU and it worked great (added Aux in, BT, etc.) Second, I hate to say this, but while Crutchfield is a good resource it's far from the cheapest place to buy. I bought my Kenwood HU on eBay for ~$300; it was MSRP ~$1k and on Crutchfield for $600+. I'm all for supporting retailers but not "pay double" level of support. $300 isn't an insignificant amount of money, so if you're on a budget, consider looking elsewhere to see if you can save money.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 10:45
|
|
|
Given the choice of installing a $30-50 bluetooth CD-changer spoofer (that I press one button, and ma tunez start where I last left off) and a $300-500 poo poo looking/china crap buggyness/high end unit (that for some reason only supports Apple) while also having to buy expensive as gently caress fascias and steering wheel control adapters... well. I've done the CD-changer spoofer on two cars, and it's worked on par with the bluetooth system in my dads V70. In fact, the V70's system has been more annoying as it sometimes decides that my phone doesn't exist anymore.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 11:20
|
|
|
The CD changer spoofer for her car is $150, and the display on the stereo isn't dot matrix or anything, it's just numbers. So no track info, and you have to "switch discs" to answer a phone call (also, the stereo itself doesn't ring). You also can't place a phone call from it, only receive (plus you have no idea who's calling until you answer, or look at the phone itself). You can make a call from the phone and it'll go through the stereo, but it's a lot easier to make it through the stereo. We have handheld device laws here that are pretty strict, you can't interact with a handheld device at all while driving. It all has to be done through the stereo. You can use it while at a red light (not for a phone call, but to change songs, open a navigation app, etc), but god help you if a cop sees you touching a phone at all while you're moving (and they even went so far as to put cops on buses so they could look down into cars passing the bus; they'd radio the car info to another cop down the road). For $150, I can have a decent stereo + harness in its place, and she'll be able to comply with Austin's strict phone laws. Plus, her CD player is getting kinda bitchy about ejecting CDs (and she actually has a lot of CDs...). The Crutchfield price on the head units I'm looking at isn't much more than other retailers, and they include the mounting kit and harness for a basic install. If nothing else, I can at least look on Crutchfield and go elsewhere, but on the low to middle of the line single DIN stuff they tend to be reasonable, IMO. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Dec 31, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 19:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 00:16 |
|
|
I haven't had any issues with BT phone call quality on two Pioneer HUs now. FWIW, Wirecutter now recommends Kenwood where they once recommended Pioneer for single-DIN stereos.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 20:27
|
|
