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Yeah, I have a Unifi AC Pro with a centrally located ceiling mount and it not only provides a solid signal anywhere in the house (1300sqft, 1 floor, wooden frame/drywall), but it covers most of the 1 acre yard as well. Regarding the LR APs, I found a good purpose for them when I was in a rental with a garage-attached room 50' away from the router with two brick walls in between. None of the USB/PCIe adapters I tried could get a reliable signal, but two LR APs (the pre-AC models) worked fairly well and with the far side in Wireless Uplink mode and a switch I could just use Ethernet ports like I wanted to anyway. It could be the case that non-LR would have worked as well, but given the conditions I figured the $30 extra at the time made sense.
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Jan 3, 2019 23:26
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Is there any difference in terms of latency for gaming between routers? Is latency related to range/signal strength? I am a total dummy when it comes to networking.
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Jan 3, 2019 23:48
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Walked posted:
ER-X is solid and a lot cheaper, though less powerful than ER4. Check and see if it would meet your needs.
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Jan 3, 2019 23:58
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space marine todd posted:Is there any difference in terms of latency for gaming between routers? Is latency related to range/signal strength? I am a total dummy when it comes to networking. Wifi in general isn't good for gaming, but I suspect that interference due to obstacles, neighbors with wifi being on the same bands, or electrical devices like microwaves will be worse than the difference between router brands. Remember the snakey boi wins. 
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Jan 4, 2019 00:18
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Rexxed posted:Wifi in general isn't good for gaming, but I suspect that interference due to obstacles, neighbors with wifi being on the same bands, or electrical devices like microwaves will be worse than the difference between router brands. Yeah, that makes total sense. What's frustrating is that my computer is literally 10 feet away, but the router and cable modem are across a hallway that I would need a 50 foot cable to snake around and above doors. I guess I should just stop being lazy!
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Jan 4, 2019 00:44
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Well, everything went pretty quick with the setup. Worst part was wrangling cage nuts in and out of my already fairly full rack - the tabs on the USG were just deep enough I couldn't really use my existing fasteners, and had to swap the cage nuts to match the thread of the longer fasteners that came with the USG. Forgot what a pain those things are when you have two next to each other. My rack is kind of a mess right now - but once I get new switches I will reorganize everything, make new cables, and make it up neatly again. Anyways, the setup was pretty painless overall - it took just as long to setup everything and flash the firmware as it did to go through and identify and name all my clients. I don't think the single AC-PRO is going to be sufficient - I can't reliably get either of the cars on the wifi, and the 5G signal is getting weak enough the other end of the house that my Pixel 2 gets a pretty miserable signal. The AP also isn't in the ceiling (just sitting on the top of the 12U rack on the ground), so it definitely isn't installed in an optimal way. Might pick up two more APs to help fill things out. Definitely need to get some unifi switches in here now - gotta fill out that topology map! Only negative experience so far is that since the switch-over, my chromecast (wired) seems to have a slight delay on the video compared to the audio (~5-8 ms). Its solvable enough with the built in audio delay adjustment in google home, but it is a little odd overall. May just be a coincidence - we'll see if it resolves itself eventually - might be a hulu problem or something. Can't imagine what in the gateway would be causing that issue, although I'm not smart enough with how streaming data is packetized to know if that is an expected outcome of DPI or not. ROJO fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 01:00
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space marine todd posted:Yeah, that makes total sense. What's frustrating is that my computer is literally 10 feet away, but the router and cable modem are across a hallway that I would need a 50 foot cable to snake around and above doors. I guess I should just stop being lazy! They've got some flat patch cables now. Despite appearances they have some crosstalk mitigation in them and aren't just straight across cables, although I wouldn't trust them for more than 100ft or so. Here's a 50ft one that comes with some tack nail style clip thingies if you can get away with making some small holes, if that helps at all: https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/
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Jan 4, 2019 01:08
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Rexxed posted:They've got some flat patch cables now. Despite appearances they have some crosstalk mitigation in them and aren't just straight across cables, although I wouldn't trust them for more than 100ft or so. Here's a 50ft one that comes with some tack nail style clip thingies if you can get away with making some small holes, if that helps at all: Thanks! That's super helpful.
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Jan 4, 2019 01:09
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I really like the super thin ”SlimRun” cable Cat6 from Monoprice: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13538
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Jan 4, 2019 03:51
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ROJO posted:I don't think the single AC-PRO is going to be sufficient - I can't reliably get either of the cars on the wifi, and the 5G signal is getting weak enough the other end of the house that my Pixel 2 gets a pretty miserable signal. The AP also isn't in the ceiling (just sitting on the top of the 12U rack on the ground), so it definitely isn't installed in an optimal way. Might pick up two more APs to help fill things out. Definitely need to get some unifi switches in here now - gotta fill out that topology map! I'm in a similar situation. I'm in a reasonably-sized flat, but it's still a flat. My AP AC-PRO that is connected directly to my LAN is mounted on the wall, sideways, rather than the ceiling. I have my network cabinet at the rear of my living room and you'd never know that there was a small home server and a load of networking gear in there. I wanted my living room to look as minimalistic with tech as possible. So I have the AC PRO, mounted at knee-height, just peeking out from the side of where my network cabinet meets the corner wall. It's also behind the curtain, so you can just see then blue, glowing ring behind the black curtain if you study carefully. Anyway, because I knew that this wasn't an ideal position I have a second AP AC-PRO in the hallway, ceiling mounted and it just has line-of-sight with the AC-PRO that's wired directly to my UniFI swich and pfSense box which are hidden away in the Ikea cabinet. Result: a flat that doesn't look overloaded with tech but has absolutely bangin' WiFi right over to the other side of the street. I've turned my AP's to medium power settings to avoid drowning about my neighbour's Wifi and use a randomly generated 36 character password on the WiFi. I plan to move into a proper house later this year and, apart from maybe buying another UniFi POE switch, this equipment will serve a much bigger home.
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Jan 4, 2019 03:56
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So I'm trying to drastically simply most parts of my home, and next on the chopping block is my networking gear - I currently have a bunch of Ubiquiti garbage (USG, Unifi POE switch, two APs, and a Raspberry Pi running the Unifi software), and I've been extremely pleased with it. I try to keep the stuff mostly tucked away, though, and that is becoming a challenge. So I've been thinking about just switching to the current Wirecutter-recommended router, the Netgear Nighthawk 7000P. Seems pretty solid, but I've grown spoiled by the performance of my Ubiquiti stuff - will I notice much of a decrease in performance/reliability with modern consumer-grade hardware? The idea of dropping from four devices (I have a small apartment and realistically only need 1 AP) to one is attractive, but not at the cost of performance.
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Jan 4, 2019 23:53
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Sell one of your APs and your Pi and just install the controller software on your laptop/desktop. It doesn't need to be running all of the time. It's easier to hide the unifi stuff than an all-in-one AP with large antennas sticking out, and it's free.
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Jan 5, 2019 01:46
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I'm really confused as to why you'd do that.
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Jan 5, 2019 01:50
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Yeah as I was typing all of that out it was sounding like a worse and worse idea. I just tend to end up with an irresistible urge to tinker when I have things available to tinker with, and the Ubiquiti gear has been a black hole for that. the tl;dr is that the problem is me!
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Jan 5, 2019 03:01
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Is there anyway to test if your router is the one making GBS threads or the isp? I upgraded my internet and the first day I was seeing super huge speeds and now for the last few days it’s super super low.
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Jan 5, 2019 15:40
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A few pages back someone linked to software which precisely logs traffic speed and dropped packets so you can prove to your isp
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Jan 5, 2019 15:48
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It's time to upgrade my current setup which is an Asus n55u all in one router thingo. It's not really doing it for me in my new split level house. So is an edgerouter still the recommendation? Does it has a fairly decent firewall that is quite configurable? Or should I look for a more discrete option? I use a pihole on a raspberry pi on my network for whole of network filtering of ads and for parental control. I've also just bought nordvpn. So I'm looking for a setup that allows me to cover the whole network via nordvpn, except to separate out some key devices that'll run slow / not work through a vpn (Chromecast, Xbox, etc). I'm also wanting to setup one or two vlans a bit later to separate out my IOT / home automation gear as I progress that. I've seen recommendations for pfsense as a way of separating out certain devices from the vpn and a managed switch or capable router for the vlan. Is the edgerouter capable of managing all of that? (Separating traffic by device & vlan)? Or should I have a router and a separate more feature packed firewall (pfsense)? I was thinking of using the pi as a firewall but I'm concerned it wouldn't cope with the throughput. As a pihole all its doing is handling DNS requests which shouldn't be a bottle neck at that level, but anything more may effectively throttle my network. Oh I guess the final piece of the puzzle is I'd throw up some ubiquiti APs on each level and call it a day and i could repurpose another pi to run as a controller. I'd phase them in later though and use the n55u and another old dlink router I have just as APs until I can upgrade them. Most of the house is wired up, the wireless is just for phones, tablets, Chromecasts and currently the Xbox. hambeet fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Jan 6, 2019 |
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Jan 6, 2019 08:30
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I might be in the market for some powerline adapters. As I understand, their usability will depend on the quirks of the house wiring, so it's a bit of a crapshoot. But assuming they work, would the "reliability" (for lack of a more specific term) be comparable to traditional ethernet wiring? Like if I were to run a speed test on a laptop connected to the router, and the same laptop connected to the powerline adapter, would comparable speed indicate comparable performance? Or would there be other factors to consider? Asking because my brother-in-law will be moving upstairs for a bit and he's willing to pay for his own ISP. He does plan to do online gaming/streaming, so a stable connection is important. But in the event that our house wins the Old Wiring Lottery and gets good performance over powerline, I figure I might as well just run that upstairs and save him some bucks. But if it's gonna like stall out whenever someone runs the microwave downstairs I won't bother.
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Jan 6, 2019 22:45
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Minidust posted:I might be in the market for some powerline adapters. As I understand, their usability will depend on the quirks of the house wiring, so it's a bit of a crapshoot. But assuming they work, would the "reliability" (for lack of a more specific term) be comparable to traditional ethernet wiring? Generally they have similar latency but lower bandwidth than traditional ethernet. That said, most folks have internet connections that are a lot less than the gigabit ethernet in their house (I know there's been more gigabit rollouts for many ISPs since google fiber showed up but it's still in very limited areas) so that doesn't really matter. If powerline networking works for your house wiring it'll be preferable to wifi for both latency and bandwidth and will be the better solution for gaming, and a set of adapters will cost a month or two of ISP subscription costs.
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Jan 7, 2019 00:29
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I use the tplink gigabit Ethernet powerline adapters, beware the basic one only has 1 port and doesn’t advertise as gigabit Ethernet. I also have fiber to the home and for all purposes the file download speeds and latency for low user household “feels” good enough. But my dream is to run wire everywhere and hang an AP on my ceiling
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Jan 7, 2019 02:16
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Minidust posted:I might be in the market for some powerline adapters. As I understand, their usability will depend on the quirks of the house wiring, so it's a bit of a crapshoot. But assuming they work, would the "reliability" (for lack of a more specific term) be comparable to traditional ethernet wiring? I used some Phicomm adapters from 2012 in a couple different houses that were around 20 years old, and tried them unsuccessfully for a longer run in a 50 year old house. In all three cases I found that a connection from one outlet to another on the same circuit will get you near the advertised performance; however, a connection between outlets on two different circuits will get substantially less or will not work depending on how good the wiring is and how far apart the adapters are. You may also get different results by changing either end to another outlet, even on the same circuit. In the two cases that did work cross-circuit, I got around 20-30Mbps fairly reliably from adapters which were rated at 500Mbps. While that's not really an exciting result, it was adequate to stream TV shows. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jan 8, 2019 |
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Jan 8, 2019 03:19
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Rexxed posted:Generally they have similar latency but lower bandwidth than traditional ethernet. That said, most folks have internet connections that are a lot less than the gigabit ethernet in their house (I know there's been more gigabit rollouts for many ISPs since google fiber showed up but it's still in very limited areas) so that doesn't really matter. If powerline networking works for your house wiring it'll be preferable to wifi for both latency and bandwidth and will be the better solution for gaming, and a set of adapters will cost a month or two of ISP subscription costs. caberham posted:I use the tplink gigabit Ethernet powerline adapters, beware the basic one only has 1 port and doesn’t advertise as gigabit Ethernet. Eletriarnation posted:I used some Phicomm adapters from 2012 in a couple different houses that were around 20 years old, and tried them unsuccessfully for a longer run in a 50 year old house. In all three cases I found that a connection from one outlet to another on the same circuit will get you near the advertised performance; however, a connection between outlets on two different circuits will get substantially less or will not work depending on how good the wiring is and how far apart the adapters are. You may also get different results by changing either end to another outlet, even on the same circuit. In the two cases that did work cross-circuit, I got around 20-30Mbps fairly reliably from adapters which were rated at 500Mbps. While that's not really an exciting result, it was adequate to stream TV shows. At least I can see that the adapters work as good as the wifi currently in my house (and with an upgrade on the latency/bandwidth end, I suppose). Which is a good sign at least. Guess I'll need to upgrade my service to test them properly! Minidust fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jan 8, 2019 |
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Jan 8, 2019 05:24
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The speed is more noticeable for larger transfers like video editing and retrieving large files from a NAS imho
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Jan 8, 2019 09:12
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I am moving in with the wife and looking to redo the home network. Currently she has an apple airport extreme (bought it used six months before they got discontinued). it works well, but the speeds die off at the other edge of the house where the kitchen and bathroom is located. At my current house i have two tmobile ac1900 converted to asus RT68U, i am using one at the moment because i can get reception everywhere, and using a edgerouter x for the main router because i am an idiot that doesn't need more hardware. we also have a lot of internet of thangs that we would like to bring online. i would like to segment them off either on a separate vlan or separate LAN (which is an option I am considering). I would like to do the following items:
my goals are
am I making myself crazy?
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Jan 8, 2019 12:02
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Got a bunch of Unifi gear ordered to get my mother in law’s house upgraded this weekend. I think it should be pretty straightforward to setup, but they have DSL and I’ve only ever dealt with cable/gigabit before. Plan is to keep their existing DSL modem/router and set it into bridge mode so just the modem is working. I know I need to get the PPPoE login info to get the USG set up properly. Any other red flags I should look out for?
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Jan 9, 2019 05:25
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Situation: 50Mbps internet, Airport Extreme 1st or 2nd gen router, 2 PCs I'd like to use wired connection on and a variety of mobile/streaming devices around the home. The signal from the airport kind of stinks and I'm looking for house coverage. ~1700sqft and I figure since my router is over 10 years old the state of the art for broadcasting has improved a bit. I read the OP and I didn't see an all in one router/wifi unit besides the apple offerings. As I understand it, they have all been discontinued so I want something else. I figure almost anything would be an improvement but I'm not afraid to spend some money on a replacement. Where should I start?
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Jan 9, 2019 21:55
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Does anyone know how to flash a C7 back to factory firmware? I managed to get dd-wrt working on it but the stability issues arent worth the comfort of ddwrt and I just want my poo poo to work better.
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Jan 10, 2019 04:47
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Is the first post still mostly up to date? The "premium" recommended modem and routers are about $85 each (Arris SB6190 and TP-Link AC1900 C9). Is it worth $100 extra for something like the SB8200, or for normal home use it does not really make a difference? I am not sure if something like the SB8200 is new and that is why it was not mentioned in the first post, or it is just not worth the extra money.
Pain of Mind fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 10, 2019 08:36
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You are receiving this broadcast as a dream...We are transmitting from the year one nine... nine nine ...You are receiving this broadcast in order t
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Pain of Mind posted:Is the first post still mostly up to date? The "premium" recommended modem and routers are about $85 each (Arris SB6190 and TP-Link AC1900 C9). Is it worth $100 extra for something like the SB8200, or for normal home use it does not really make a difference? I am not sure if something like the SB8200 is new and that is why it was not mentioned in the first post, or it is just not worth the extra money. Friends don't let friends get an SB6190, so that part of it isn't really up to date.
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Jan 10, 2019 09:01
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If any goons in the UK are selling any unifi stuff, let me know, I need 2 more APs and a USG.
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Jan 10, 2019 15:14
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Avoid the 6190 modem. Go with the 6183 unless you’re area has the infrastructure and speeds for the 8200. If you’re not getting gigabit you probably don’t need the 8200. If you need something with 24 channels, the netgear cm600 isn’t a bad choice. It’s good to a theoretical 940 mbit down
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Jan 10, 2019 17:30
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What's wrong with the 6190? I have 200 down and haven't had a single problem with it in my apartment.
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Jan 11, 2019 18:14
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jokes posted:What's wrong with the 6190? I have 200 down and haven't had a single problem with it in my apartment. There's a problem with the Intel Puma chipset used in that modem and others. There's a massive thread over at dslreports that covers it. Supposedly it's been fixed by a firmware update, but I'm not sure as I haven't read anything about it in some time.
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Jan 11, 2019 18:26
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Ugh, moving means I get to figure out how to home network again. My new house has FiOS and it looks like I have poor wireless coverage upstairs, since my AP is in the basement. I'm thinking of buying a second ubiquiti AP, but I only have coax upstairs. Could I buy a moca bridge to connect the AP to the network? Would I have to buy one bridge only since the Verizon router is providing a coax - lan bridge?
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Jan 12, 2019 01:45
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Residency Evil posted:Ugh, moving means I get to figure out how to home network again. My new house has FiOS and it looks like I have poor wireless coverage upstairs, since my AP is in the basement. I'm thinking of buying a second ubiquiti AP, but I only have coax upstairs. Could I buy a moca bridge to connect the AP to the network? Would I have to buy one bridge only since the Verizon router is providing a coax - lan bridge? You probably expect this reply already, but if you plan on being there any length of time, you really ought to consider running one or more cable(s).
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Jan 12, 2019 02:06
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astral posted:You probably expect this reply already, but if you plan on being there any length of time, you really ought to consider running one or more cable(s). Yeah yeah, I'm sure I will. Right now, I have 1. Old Airport Extreme as the primary router 2. Lan Port on Airport: Verizon Gateway as secondary, with coax connected to STBs 3. Lan Port on Airport: Ubiquiti AP What I want to do is buy a new Ubiquiti AP to connect over coax and I'm not sure whether: 1. I need one MOCA Bridge (https://www.amazon.com/d/Modems/Mot...rds=moca+bridge). Here, I'd connect the bridge to coax upstairs and the AP to the bridge. That seems like enough, since the Verizon gateway is acting as a MOCA router, right? 2. I need two MOCA bridges: one to go from Airport Extreme -> Coax, one to go from Coax -> Ubiquiti. Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Jan 12, 2019 |
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Jan 12, 2019 02:11
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The moca bridge should work. But somewhere you can return easily if you can though. You could also look into waps with wireless backhaul and place one on each level
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Jan 12, 2019 03:59
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Pfsense launched their new small appliance based on a $49 SBC called "Espressobin". SG-1100 $149, 64bit dualcore ARM, 1GB RAM, 8GB MMC, USB 3.0, internal SATA, micro-USB console. close to 1 Gbit of throughput in their "internet mix" benchmark. https://www.netgate.com/blog/netgates-new-sg-1100-punches-way-above-its-weight.html also worth mentioning: "the SG-1100 is Netgate’s first product equipped with a Microchip® CryptoAuthentication Device which assures customers they are running authentic, unaltered pfSense software." this may or may not be used as DRM to keep people from running pfsense on the original $49 espressobin itself.
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Jan 12, 2019 13:23
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Residency Evil posted:Ugh, moving means I get to figure out how to home network again. My new house has FiOS and it looks like I have poor wireless coverage upstairs, since my AP is in the basement. I'm thinking of buying a second ubiquiti AP, but I only have coax upstairs. Could I buy a moca bridge to connect the AP to the network? Would I have to buy one bridge only since the Verizon router is providing a coax - lan bridge? Have you considered powerline? Sounds like you're already pretty far down the MOCA route, so just wanted to mention the option of buying a box of AV2000 TPlinks or something similar from Amazon / Best Buy since that seems like a quick fix. Plug in, see latency and throughput (typical latency is like ~10 ms with ~150-200 megabits bidirectional throughput) and you can return if it doesn't work well for your wiring.
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Jan 12, 2019 20:03
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I don’t know how old RE’s house is, but it might be pretty old. If it’s fairly new power line is an option.
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Jan 13, 2019 00:32
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