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always be closing posted:98 xj 4.0, replaced crank position sensor a month ago after Jeep just died at a stop light then would crank and crank but not start. Ran great after that. Thursday I noticed I had to give it some gas after it started, but it was kinda cold so I didn't think anything of it. Friday morning it cranked and cranked but wouldn't fire up, so I took my wife's car to work. Then Saturday it started and has run fine since...how do I go about figuring this out? Try the poor man's prime. If it works you can either keep doing that and consider it antitheft, or replace the 65 dollar fpr/filter/check valve combo module that you have to drop the fuel tank to get at.
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Dec 24, 2018 23:14
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You mean dump fuel straight into the TB? Edit- I have a cel for evap lines and the only rusty lines are coming from the fuel pump, may drop it to fix that someday.
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Dec 25, 2018 03:51
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No, turn the key to run but don't start, wait for the pump to come on and go off again, turn key to off, repeat 2 to 3 times, then start.
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Dec 25, 2018 18:43
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I put a smittybilt cage in my Jeep yesterday. The install was pretty easy after reading the instructions and reviews on Amazon. My kit ended up being short one piece, but Smittybilt is sending it in a week or so. Luckily the piece that is missing is the last to be installed - the bar that runs across the dash. I got a smoking deal on the cage so I don't mind a little delay.  I know it's not the best cage out there, but for $430 installed I'm pretty stoked. I don't think I would've been able to buy the DOM for that price if I was going to have a fabricator put one together. I'm going to see what I can do to get the A-pillar bars tied into the floor and frame. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Dec 28, 2018 |
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Dec 28, 2018 01:16
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How's the fit with the doors on the piece that goes next to the dash. My full doors sit really close to the dash and I didn't think that piece would fit, so I ended up going with a through the dash kit.
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Dec 28, 2018 03:57
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It fits fine with my half doors, no rubbing that I've noticed so far
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Dec 28, 2018 04:26
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I modified the factory sound bar to work with the roll cage. All it took was cutting a few chunks out of the metal enclosure, and slitting the cover to fit around the bars. Now that it fits I can enjoy the extra speakers and the dome light again    I also rolled the rear bar more to the top of the Jeep to line up with the soft top. When I had it where Smittybilt tells you to put it there was a few inch gap between the top and the bar. It bumps the top up a little at the back but I think it looks okay.  The next project is making some arm rests to fit between the half doors and the upper windows. I've already welded brackets out of 1/8" steel which is definitely overkill, so I just need to figure out how to attach the foam and fabric to the plate.
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Jan 5, 2019 18:47
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Astonishing Wang posted:The next project is making some arm rests to fit between the half doors and the upper windows. I've already welded brackets out of 1/8" steel which is definitely overkill, so I just need to figure out how to attach the foam and fabric to the plate. I'd just staple the foam and fabric to a piece of wood and bolt that to the bracket. Either bolt the wood on first, or use self tapping screws to attach to the bracket.
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Jan 7, 2019 21:33
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Paulie posted:I'd just staple the foam and fabric to a piece of wood and bolt that to the bracket. Either bolt the wood on first, or use self tapping screws to attach to the bracket. That's what I ended up doing - I made wooden plates out of thin ply wood and used spray adhesive to attach the foam. I stretched the fabric around and used a staple gun with 1/4" staples to attach to the wood. I made the driver side first, and it came out pretty ugly but comfortable. When I made the passenger side I had learned from a few of the mistakes I made on the first and it came out better. I went back and redid the driver side. I was able to buy the scraps that were left at the upholstery shop from when they did my seats a few months ago. I got 1.5 meters which was way more than enough to do both sides and the center console with plenty of fabric left. It's nice to have the fabrics match. 
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Jan 8, 2019 06:20
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I've been working on a front bumper for my TJ - It will have two recovery points as well as a semi-subtle hoop/stinger. I ordered a pair of nice frame mounting brackets with the holes already located to make it a little easier. This is my first Jeep welding project and it's been a ton of fun so far. Lots to learn about welding, grinding, cutting and bending pipe. I'm basing the whole bumper on the brackets welded to a 2x4 of 1/8" walled steel. The hoop will be 1.25" 1/8" wall pipe, not sure what kind but certainly not DOM. I bent the first hoop tonight and it kinks a little in the bender, but comes out smooth enough for me to use (I have low standards). I'm going to try filling a tube with sand tomorrow and repeating the bends to see if it gets smoother. Photos from yesterday, before the brackets were attached:  I cut through the top of the 2x4 and laid the recovery chunk through so it could be welded top, front, back, and a little on the inside before capping off the 2x4 with some flat stock. 
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Jan 22, 2019 04:13
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What would be involved in swapping to a 4l60e? It'll bolt right to my engine and I'd like to go automatic. I don't know what the overall length with a transfer case would be (or which transfer case to use tbh) but this is probably going to be my next project and I'd like to get as many tips as I can.
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Jan 23, 2019 01:49
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Karma Comedian posted:What would be involved in swapping to a 4l60e? It'll bolt right to my engine and I'd like to go automatic. I don't know what the overall length with a transfer case would be (or which transfer case to use tbh) but this is probably going to be my next project and I'd like to get as many tips as I can. What vehicle/motor? And why the 4l60e in particular vs an AW4 (if we are talking a 4.0)? And why the swap in general?
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Jan 23, 2019 18:43
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Yeah, the trans will bolt up to your engine, transfer case and crossmember would be a different issue. I'm sure the correct adapters exist. You'll need a shifter, and if you want to go with a 60E, you'll need a transmission computer to go with it and whatever that computer wants, unless your FAST EFI has the ability to control that transmission as well. Otherwise a properly built 700R4 is the same transmission without any real electronics other than a basic lockup clutch (just needs 12V, with switches set up to disconnect it under braking or low vacuum) and a throttle-valve cable. Paulie: If I remember right he has a 350-swapped Wrangler, though I can't recall if it's a YJ or a TJ.
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Jan 23, 2019 18:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, the trans will bolt up to your engine, transfer case and crossmember would be a different issue. I'm sure the correct adapters exist. That's the good stuff I was looking for. I'm sure the transfer case has an adapter because I've looked it up. But I didn't know about the computer and I'm not sure if the EFI handles it on it's own or not. If I was looking into getting a 700r4, then, what should I be looking for? Paulie posted:What vehicle/motor? And why the 4l60e in particular vs an AW4 (if we are talking a 4.0)? And why the swap in general? IOwnCalculus posted:Paulie: If I remember right he has a 350-swapped Wrangler, though I can't recall if it's a YJ or a TJ. Correct! It's a 350 swapped TJ with an ax-15 that's losing second and I want to go automatic for driveability. Currently I have an advanced adapter to bolt the ax-15 to the 350, and I have no idea if an AW4 bolts to the AX side of that adapter, so I was looking at GM trans
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Jan 23, 2019 19:47
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If you have an AX15 today then you probably don't have an adapter between the two since that was probably the factory transfer case / transmission combo for your Jeep. Yours has a FAST EFI on it, right? They make a separate TCU, would probably be able to get some solid tech support out of them on what's needed to tie it into your existing EFI wiring-wise: https://www.fuelairspark.com/ez-tcutm-overdrive-transmission-control-unit-gm-4l60-4l65-4l70-4l80-and-4l85e-to-09.html What to look for with a 700R4? A very reputable transmission builder. I wouldn't dream of pulling one from a junkyard at this point since the newest ones are ~25 years old and the 4L60/65/70E series really added a lot of improvements that can be put in a 700R4 during a rebuild. You'd need some bracketry to connect the TV cable to the throttle body (https://www.fuelairspark.com/ez-efir-cable-mount-kit.html looks like it) and you'll need to spend some time adjusting said cable (http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm). Having owned both, if you're willing to throw the money and wiring time at it, I'd rather have the transmission computer and a 60/65/70E transmission... or a 4L80E if your budget and transmission tunnel allow it.
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Jan 23, 2019 20:31
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Well i found a 4l60 with torque converter, an np233c, and a front driveshaft for $300 on Facebook which sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Adding that FAST TCU still keeps me under a grand, which was my target. And reading what that thing can do is crazy.
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Jan 24, 2019 05:59
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I "threw some parts at it" (it being a voltage regulation problem): Ground under airbox (G106):  Main battery ground (G100):  Super high-tech "maybe my connectors are suspect" fix:  As I've fixed different bits, the troubles have morphed a bit and gotten more intermittent, so I'm not considering it done just yet, but it did idle fine with no voltage spike for several minutes after this, so maybe. If not, I guess next step is cutting off the ends of G101 and redoing them, even though they look & feel fine. The grounds were factory sheet metal screws, and in pretty bad shape - G106 were both broken off on the other side of the sheet metal (  33s), G100 was iffy, in no small part because I had hung my headlight relays from it (you can see that bracket heading toward the lower left part of the image above) and maybe, possibly, not reassembling all of it in the right order (actual ground should be touching sheetmetal, not two brackets in between). Replaced all with some nice bolts from McMaster Carr. I'm hopeful that the flat head nature of the bolts will keep them out of danger from tires on G106, and besides, ordering stuff from McMaster Carr is fun.The connectors on the PCM are all some variety of cracked (or, at least, the tabs holding them in place are) - I've cleaned them, used dielectric grease around the outsides, and now ziptied them snugly in place, in the hopes that I'll have some sort of workshop before I actually have to rebuild them. I figure I'll grab another PCM and good connectors when I find them in a junkyard, but hopefully I won't actually need them yet.
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Jan 25, 2019 23:50
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Karma Comedian posted:Well i found a 4l60 with torque converter, an np233c, and a front driveshaft for $300 on Facebook which sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Novak adapters claims that most GM transfer case setups are too long for a Wrangler, so you might still want to resell that NP233 and get adapters for whatever case you already have in it.
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Jan 26, 2019 03:01
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I can't guarantee it because I've never worked on an np233 but there's a chance you can combine np231j and np233c parts to make a 27 spline np231 that'll bolt to your 4lfixme. What year are the 231 and 233?
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Jan 26, 2019 14:02
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241c with a sye? Starts to get pricey for the short sye.
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Jan 26, 2019 16:07
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I finished the bumper! I'm pretty stoked with how it came out, aside from my ugly welds and some crimps in the tube from the pipe bender. If anyone wants me to make one it will take a solid week, 2 kilos of electrodes, and about 15 grinding wheels  
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Jan 26, 2019 18:35
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Could changing the transmission fluid in an 85 CJ-7's T-5 potentially make the speedometer work properly again, or is this just coincidence? I drained the ATF that was in it and filled it with GL-4, then went to the store. On the way back I noticed that the speedo, which had always previously just bounced around erratically, was now reading what appeared to be the correct speed. Also, my hard top is NOISY. Rattles like crazy over any sort of bumps in the road. I assume whatever rubber/foam goes between the top and the body has long since disintegrated; what would you recommend as a replacement?
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Jan 27, 2019 01:03
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Astonishing Wang posted:I finished the bumper! I'm pretty stoked with how it came out, aside from my ugly welds and some crimps in the tube from the pipe bender. If anyone wants me to make one it will take a solid week, 2 kilos of electrodes, and about 15 grinding wheels Peezy looking good dude 
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Jan 27, 2019 05:26
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Been a productive weekend for me finally. Rotated tires and did oil change/air filter/oil filter on 2 JKs for an upcoming death valley trip, put my oilpan skid plate back on (a dirty/annoying 2 person job). Ordered a custom soft top for the M715 and started the hidden 2nd glovebox hidden under the new dataplate I've made: (yeah its just a tacked box).Once the soft top arrives I will start building the soft top frame. Also made a license plate holder (trash welds) that replaces the plastic clip from the rotopax on the back of the Jeep:  This is so I don't lose another license plate in the middle of the night on an Arizona freeway.Astonishing Wang posted:I finished the bumper! I'm pretty stoked with how it came out, aside from my ugly welds and some crimps in the tube from the pipe bender. If anyone wants me to make one it will take a solid week, 2 kilos of electrodes, and about 15 grinding wheels Hell yeah! Shame about the crimps from the pipe bender, what caused those? They look like the start/end location of the bends. Also what bender? tuna fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jan 29, 2019 |
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Jan 29, 2019 04:31
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tuna posted:Been a productive weekend for me finally. Rotated tires and did oil change/air filter/oil filter on 2 JKs for an upcoming death valley trip, put my oilpan skid plate back on (a dirty/annoying 2 person job). Ordered a custom soft top for the M715 and started the hidden 2nd glovebox hidden under the new dataplate I've made: It was a harbor freight style pipe bender that uses a bottle Jack to push the pipe in between two rollers. The crimps are from the rollers. I bent another tube that I filled with sand and the crimps are about the same so that didn't help much. Where are you going to hide that box? It's for the m715?
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Jan 29, 2019 17:18
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Astonishing Wang posted:I finished the bumper! I'm pretty stoked with how it came out, aside from my ugly welds and some crimps in the tube from the pipe bender. If anyone wants me to make one it will take a solid week, 2 kilos of electrodes, and about 15 grinding wheels Bumper looks great well done.
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Jan 29, 2019 18:15
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Astonishing Wang posted:It was a harbor freight style pipe bender that uses a bottle Jack to push the pipe in between two rollers. The crimps are from the rollers. I bent another tube that I filled with sand and the crimps are about the same so that didn't help much. Ah right, I guess it's just an iffy bender then. I'm looking into getting a bender this year, but was leaning towards the die-based benders from JD2 that you bend with a lever, those dies are really pricey though! I always figured those roller-type benders were better suited to really large radius bends (which i also kind of need). Now you've fabbed some stuff up, what's your next project? Astonishing Wang posted:Where are you going to hide that box? It's for the m715? Behind the data plate on the dash as a second glovebox for radio or maps or something techy that I can hide.
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Jan 29, 2019 23:35
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Dropped another radiator in the JK. Hopefully this is the last one before I sell it and buy a 25 year old Bronco for improved reliability. Bonus: Duralast apparently changed the passenger side plastic end tank. It no longer has both bosses cast in for the AC condenser and ATF cooler. Only one. Had to print my own bracket to mount everything back up. Aside from that, I can now get this task done in less than 90 minutes. 
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Jan 30, 2019 03:34
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Godholio posted:Dropped another radiator in the JK. I had to do that 2 weeks ago in mine. What a pain in the rear end! It took me 3 hours 
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Jan 30, 2019 14:01
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Once you figure out the angles to get a wrench on the front-facing bolts for the condenser/ATF cooler, it goes a lot quicker. Ratcheting wrenches are a godsend for this job. I hope you never have to do the heater core.
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Jan 31, 2019 03:45
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Godholio posted:Once you figure out the angles to get a wrench on the front-facing bolts for the condenser/ATF cooler, it goes a lot quicker. Ratcheting wrenches are a godsend for this job. Yup ratcheting wrenches for sure helped. It's nice not having a small puddle of coolant on my garage floor every morning now! My wife said my Jeep was on it's period lol
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Jan 31, 2019 13:03
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Figured this would be a good place to ask; my parents' Renegade (2015 iirc) has a center console that keeps restarting every few minutes while driving. I haven't exactly timed it but it seems to completely turn off about every 5 minutes and then takes ~5 seconds before it starts up again. Considering this console manages loving everything including the radio this gets pretty annoying pretty quickly. The navigation is also permanently stuck on its bootup screen which has made us suspect a software bug there being the source, any advice or are we screwed? It's been to a dealer garage but the mechanics there basically threw up their hands once they were told it was an electronics issue and advised us to get a refurbished console.
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Jan 31, 2019 15:54
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Hey how do I make my tjs glove box not fall off when I open it
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Jan 31, 2019 16:17
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Karma Comedian posted:Hey how do I make my tjs glove box not fall off when I open it Does it have the strap in place to stop it opening too much ? If that is attached it shouldn't come off presuming the hinges aren't broken.
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Jan 31, 2019 18:24
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Karma Comedian posted:Hey how do I make my tjs glove box not fall off when I open it There should be a strap that holds it to the dash - it comes down from the inside of the dash and slides into a slot in the glove box - see below:  tuna posted:Ah right, I guess it's just an iffy bender then. I'm looking into getting a bender this year, but was leaning towards the die-based benders from JD2 that you bend with a lever, those dies are really pricey though! I always figured those roller-type benders were better suited to really large radius bends (which i also kind of need). Yeah, I figured that borrowing this bender would give me a good idea of it's performance versus the high end stuff. The JD2 bender seems semi-fairly priced, but the die prices are ridiculous! So far I've done the front bumper, added a hoop to the rear tire carrier, and fixed my winch solenoid mounting bracket that vibrated off while driving the Baja. Next project is adding a removable 'shelf' for the spare tire carrier. Some place to put the lighter stuff like tent, sleeping bag, pads, etc. to save space inside the Jeep. We've been taking care of some street dogs for a while and hope to get them good homes, but they're with us for now and they take up some space. I'm jealous of your truck. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jan 31, 2019 |
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Jan 31, 2019 18:27
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ThaBus posted:Figured this would be a good place to ask; my parents' Renegade (2015 iirc) has a center console that keeps restarting every few minutes while driving. I haven't exactly timed it but it seems to completely turn off about every 5 minutes and then takes ~5 seconds before it starts up again. Considering this console manages loving everything including the radio this gets pretty annoying pretty quickly. The navigation is also permanently stuck on its bootup screen which has made us suspect a software bug there being the source, any advice or are we screwed? I'd spelunk around Jeep forums for Renegade owners and see if anyone else has had the issue. I would bet it's something like a bad solder joint inside that's causing a flakey ground or other odd connection. Those kinds of problems can wreak havoc on software that never expected certain components to 'disappear' or malfunction. The trouble is unless you're an EE and have a lot of specialized tools and knowledge, it's really hard to troubleshoot a modern circuit board. The problem could be a tiny pin that's a fraction of a millimeter and pulled away ever so slightly from the board--you really won't be able to see or find it easily.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:57
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Yeah the strap is there it just keeps coming out and then the whole thing dumps out onto the floor boards.
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Feb 1, 2019 02:05
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Is the strap attached on both ends?
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Feb 1, 2019 03:40
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Is it coming out sideways or pulling through the slot? The strap has a stitched over section so you should have to slide it in sideways.
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Feb 1, 2019 05:08
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Astonishing Wang posted:Yeah, I figured that borrowing this bender would give me a good idea of it's performance versus the high end stuff. The JD2 bender seems semi-fairly priced, but the die prices are ridiculous! So far I've done the front bumper, added a hoop to the rear tire carrier, and fixed my winch solenoid mounting bracket that vibrated off while driving the Baja. Next project is adding a removable 'shelf' for the spare tire carrier. Some place to put the lighter stuff like tent, sleeping bag, pads, etc. to save space inside the Jeep. We've been taking care of some street dogs for a while and hope to get them good homes, but they're with us for now and they take up some space. Sounds like some really good projects. I love how empowering it is to be able to make extremely specific custom things that solve these niche problems. Also this thread needs Jeep doggo pics! I wish there was some sort of die rental / exchange scheme or something. I figure I'll eventually need a 1", 1.75" and 2" tube diameter dies, but I know I'll only need the 1" for like, 1 project (and a large radius roller bender) and at that price I might as well just buy the premade products, even if it is a ripoff.
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Feb 1, 2019 08:57
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