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Ubiquitus posted:No it's not. There are two ways to hold tiny things: stronger tendons or reduced weight. The reason it's a mystery is because when you lose weight, you don't lose just fat tissue, you also lose muscle tissue. How much of each you lose, and from what part of your body, depends on a lot of factors, and can be difficult to optimize if not planned correctly. So you can easily find yourself in a situation where you lose weight and your performance (in any sport, not just climbing) suffers.
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Jan 18, 2019 16:46
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Can anyone recommend me a good indoor bouldering shoe with a wide toe box? I've have the 5.10 Anasazi VCS for a few months now and they're causing me a ton of toe pain. I think they may be a bit too narrow. I mostly want to just get something that fits my foot better but I also want something more down turned.
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Jan 21, 2019 21:18
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Scarpa Instinct? Maybe one of the Butora shoes will work; I’ve heard they’re great for wide feet.
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Jan 21, 2019 23:55
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Partial Octopus posted:Can anyone recommend me a good indoor bouldering shoe with a wide toe box? I've have the 5.10 Anasazi VCS for a few months now and they're causing me a ton of toe pain. I think they may be a bit too narrow. I mostly want to just get something that fits my foot better but I also want something more down turned. Otaki's
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Jan 22, 2019 03:49
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Scarpa Vapor V have been p good for my wide feet. Maybe size a half size down or none.
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Jan 22, 2019 04:05
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Butoras have been good for me for aggressive shoes with wide feet
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Jan 22, 2019 06:38
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enraged_camel posted:The reason it's a mystery is because when you lose weight, you don't lose just fat tissue, you also lose muscle tissue. How much of each you lose, and from what part of your body, depends on a lot of factors, and can be difficult to optimize if not planned correctly. So you can easily find yourself in a situation where you lose weight and your performance (in any sport, not just climbing) suffers. That can be almost completely negated by strength training during controlled weight loss, maintaining protein intake. I cant imagine a scenario where healthy weight loss is happening while also being at a caloric deficit so high that someone accidentally loses muscle, unless they are simply not doing any weight training. Supplemental weight training is still recommended for climbers, and metabolically is a huge asset to speeding up weight loss. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 14:56
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Thanks for the recommendations guys! I ordered a few pairs of the Otakis, Butoras, and Instincts. Hopefully one will work out.
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Jan 22, 2019 15:41
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If the instinct heel cup doesn't fit just perfect give the vapors a try. I have a wide toe box and narrow heel and the closest perfect fit for me were the vapors, next closest were the instincts. the acros were still to narrow for me even in wide. Good luck, shoe hunting is a drag.
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Jan 22, 2019 16:38
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The instincts fit like a dream. Thanks for recommending them. Since I'm doing pretty much just gym bouldering and gym lead climbing, should I look into the VSR or would you guys still recommend the VS? Also, how much do the VS break in? They feel a bit tight in my left foot and I'm not sure if I should bother sizing up or not. I went with half a size below street size. Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jan 23, 2019 |
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Jan 23, 2019 19:09
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Partial Octopus posted:The instincts fit like a dream. Thanks for recommending them. Do you have a wide toebox or just wide foot in general?
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Jan 23, 2019 19:49
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ShaneB posted:Do you have a wide toebox or just wide foot in general? Wide toes narrow heel. Kind of like a duck but with a high arch. They seem to fit well but my toes are about as curled up as they can be. They're pretty painful to stand completely on my toes. I'm not sure if they will stretch at all considering there is so much rubber on the upper. If they stretched just a few mm I think they would be fine. Would you suggest sizing up half a size? Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jan 23, 2019 |
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Jan 23, 2019 19:52
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alright, how do you guys train/spend gym time, crosstrain, etc.? I find myself falling into a rut of like, warmup on a couple downgraded routes, hit a couple harder* routes I know I can do and then take a stab at a couple new or more difficult routes with marginal success rates. I'm not sure if I should be aiming for volume & diversity or difficulty right now and I'm not sure I'm necessarily spending my gym time wisely. Mind you, the hardest I've climbed is a gym 10c/v3 and we've only been going at this seriously since uh, October. We typically aim for 2-3 c. two-hour sessions a week depending on travel/work/etc. From time to time I'll try to work through the initial moves of like an 11a/b or v4-6 that look doable and find them vastly more difficult than I envisioned from the ground or from watching other people attempt them. I'm still trying to sort of ease into it so I don't gently caress up and get a tendon injury or something, but I also want to push myself to start climbing harder. I'm also mildly annoyed because my gym seems to rotate routes fairly often and a couple of my "projects" have vanished after a week or two.
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Jan 30, 2019 05:40
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Just climb and have fun man. My gym time (when not broken) is just climbing. I think you will benefit from climbing the most. If you want to get better you should just volume climb at your level, so lots of 10b and 10c routes. Then start pushing into harder things. Are you leading yet? that will make things more interesting.
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Jan 30, 2019 06:02
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Yeah, I think if you just started in October, your goal should be to climb as much as your body can take it, and try to have fun doing it. Good technique will also help you improve faster, while greatly reducing risk of injury. Watch this series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk
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Jan 30, 2019 06:05
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spwrozek posted:Just climb and have fun man. My gym time (when not broken) is just climbing. I think you will benefit from climbing the most. If you want to get better you should just volume climb at your level, so lots of 10b and 10c routes. Then start pushing into harder things. Fair enough. No, but I want to. Climbing mentor so to speak gets back into town tomorrow, I wanna hit him up and/or take a class on leading soon. Otherwise I've been practicing clipping off a keychain hanger from the couch and watching other people lead every minute I can. I'm aiming for more bs & cs, but right now it feels like they're either perennially occupied or not a style of route I'm as comfortable with, I end up pumping out and bailing after hangdogging for a minute. edit: and I'm definitely rewatching the neil gresham series Hauki fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jan 30, 2019 |
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Jan 30, 2019 06:21
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Hauki posted:Fair enough. No, but I want to. Climbing mentor so to speak gets back into town tomorrow, I wanna hit him up and/or take a class on leading soon. Otherwise I've been practicing clipping off a keychain hanger from the couch and watching other people lead every minute I can. I'm aiming for more bs & cs, but right now it feels like they're either perennially occupied or not a style of route I'm as comfortable with, I end up pumping out and bailing after hangdogging for a minute. Doing routes below your max grade that are still challenging is often the best way to improve your weaknesses. It's easy to be good at something, say vertical crimps, or steep overhangs/roofs, or slopers and volumes, or whatever, and just pick those routes and drive up the grade there, but that's just doubling down on your strengths and not training your weaknesses. A good way to spend a day is to pick a grade well below your max that you should be able to be confident at, and do every route in the gym at that grade. Some will be easy and you can cruise them trying to do them as perfectly as possible, and some will challenge you to practice your weaknesses. It's also a good way to accumulate a lot of volume in a day since you can do a lot of routes quickly if many of them are easy for you. This is often better with bouldering than rope climbing since you may need to have a belayer on the same page as you, and the boulder programs go quicker than the rope routes, but it still works either way. It's a different way of thinking about "what's the grade I can climb" - instead of what's the top grade I did one route of, what's the top grade that I can do every single route of. There's a time to push up the max and a time to push up the minimum.
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Jan 30, 2019 07:09
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+1 for focusing on climbing only at slightly submaximal intensity with max volume for your level/climbing experience
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Jan 31, 2019 00:25
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I just started at Adventure Rock right by my house and i've been there every day since i signed up. They've got a little crossfit gym in the corner for lifting too which is great. Everything reads 5.X and i can do the 6-9's pretty consistently, and the V0-1's. I've never had so much fun getting a workout in.
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Feb 11, 2019 22:26
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Loose Ifer posted:I just started at Adventure Rock right by my house and i've been there every day since i signed up. They've got a little crossfit gym in the corner for lifting too which is great. Everything reads 5.X and i can do the 6-9's pretty consistently, and the V0-1's. I've never had so much fun getting a workout in. Be sure to take some days off. 3-4 times a week is plenty because your tendons need time to recover.
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Feb 11, 2019 22:41
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For real. I think I’ve developed dorsal wrist impingement from climbing and lifting too much and it sucks. Doesn’t seem to be going away with rest and ibuprofen so off to the doctor I go
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Feb 11, 2019 22:52
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I feel kind of frustrated that I've already more-or-less plateaued at being able to climb every V2 boulder problem but maybe 33% of the V3s, and every 5.9 but maybe 15% of the 5.10's. I feel like I've been here for 8 weeks or so. The only growth I've felt in that time is being able to get a single 5.10 that was bugging me after failing it 5x or so. I kind of thought just keeping at it would make me better, but I think my lack of technique is letting me down even more than my generally average strength/fitness, and it's awfully hard to learn technique when you don't know what you are supposed to be doing in the first place. What are the best ways to push through plateaus?
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Feb 11, 2019 23:02
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Watch that Neil Gresham masterclass on YouTube and maybe pick up “Self Coached Climber” if you like books. If you think it’s a technique problem then definitely take the time to learn what proper technique is and do exercises that reinforce it. Eventually it’ll be second nature and you’ll push through this plateau that is unlikely to be strength based.
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Feb 11, 2019 23:15
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Is there a training group that meets regularly? I climb with the ladies group and the leader lets guys join us. We have a couple "manscots" that join us regularly and I've improved just by being coached by people above my level.
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Feb 11, 2019 23:20
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ShaneB posted:I feel kind of frustrated that I've already more-or-less plateaued at being able to climb every V2 boulder problem but maybe 33% of the V3s, and every 5.9 but maybe 15% of the 5.10's. I feel like I've been here for 8 weeks or so. The only growth I've felt in that time is being able to get a single 5.10 that was bugging me after failing it 5x or so. Me personally, i find trying something really out of my grade as a project really helps. I just batter myself on a route it til it clicks(maybe as a peak in a session). Then all the stuff i may have been having problems with disappears and my ability seems to surge a bit. Usually its a combination of a move, technique and strength im missing. Lately its my bravery thats stopping me from climbing harder, so there is always something to learn.
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Feb 11, 2019 23:24
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ShaneB posted:I feel kind of frustrated that I've already more-or-less plateaued at being able to climb every V2 boulder problem but maybe 33% of the V3s, and every 5.9 but maybe 15% of the 5.10's. I feel like I've been here for 8 weeks or so. The only growth I've felt in that time is being able to get a single 5.10 that was bugging me after failing it 5x or so. Do you watch other people climb your routes? Bodies are different, so it's never a guarantee, but it'll give you an opportunity to see how other climbers position themselves for different moves. You can even go one step further and ask them about sequences that are giving you trouble. The answers you get may not be the most eloquent, but they could offer some insight.
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Feb 11, 2019 23:37
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Baronash posted:Do you watch other people climb your routes? Bodies are different, so it's never a guarantee, but it'll give you an opportunity to see how other climbers position themselves for different moves. You can even go one step further and ask them about sequences that are giving you trouble. The answers you get may not be the most eloquent, but they could offer some insight. I'm gonna take the opposite stance here, and suggest that it can be a lot more valuable trying to figure out problems on your own. There have been problems I've thrown myself against over and over twenty, thirty, sometimes forty times or more (across several sessions), and when I finally sent them, it was incredibly satisfying and I felt that I grew a lot as a climber. And the whole time I just avoided watching others attempt them, because it felt too much like taking the easy route. I think for someone who is starting out, watching others can be useful, because there are a lot of things about climbing technique that aren't obvious or intuitive. After a certain point though, building the discipline to stare at a problem, to actually think critically about it, to climb it in one's "mind's eye" and then attempting those moves for real, and learning which theories/imagined moves work and which don't, is a very important discipline to build, IMO.
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Feb 12, 2019 02:21
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enraged_camel posted:I'm gonna take the opposite stance here, and suggest that it can be a lot more valuable trying to figure out problems on your own. There have been problems I've thrown myself against over and over twenty, thirty, sometimes forty times or more (across several sessions), and when I finally sent them, it was incredibly satisfying and I felt that I grew a lot as a climber. And the whole time I just avoided watching others attempt them, because it felt too much like taking the easy route. For someone who is seeing progress, I would completely agree. However, getting beta from other climbers is going to be very useful for pinpointing the cause(s) of an extended plateau like the OP is experiencing. In this case, I feel that removing route reading from the equation is going to give him a much more accurate picture of where he needs to improve and how to incorporate certain types of movement into his climbing.
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Feb 12, 2019 03:56
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8 weeks isn't that long of a plateau fwiw
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Feb 12, 2019 15:52
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Hot Diggity! posted:8 weeks isn't that long of a plateau fwiw Climbing V7s and V8s that are actually V7s for years now crew checking in.. At 8 weeks you just need to climb more, there's no secret technique or strategy that will unlock some hidden ability. You just don't have enough mileage to be good at climbing. Basic strategies for breaking plateaus: Wire routes you can already do so they're super smooth. Rethink how you do each move on them, make it efficient. Stop and try moves that feel awkward different ways, different feet, shift your body. You want every move to feel as easy as possible. Do boulder problems that are near your limit multiple times in a row so you're forced to try to do the same moves when you're more tired so you find more efficient ways to do them. You can try the various skill drills but I never liked those, they also weren't much of a thing (or I didn't know about them) when I started climbing so maybe they'd have helped me then and I just didn't know it. Work individual hard moves on climbs you can't do, just jug up to it or whatever you need, set up for it and then try. Over and over until you get it. If you can't do it try using a slightly better foot, make one hand hold easier, can you do it now? Honestly this is totally not necessary at 8 weeks but it can be helpful. Can also help in general to up frequency, I personally find it really hard to improve unless I climb 3+ days a week, with the best results on 4-5. Remember climbing's a skill sport and the best way to improve is focused practice on making yourself more efficient in your movement.
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Feb 12, 2019 16:06
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M. Night Skymall posted:Climbing V7s and V8s that are actually V7s for years now crew checking in.. This is good advice. The pleateau is maybe 8 weeks but I've been climbing for maybe 4ish months. Still not a ton, no.
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Feb 12, 2019 16:22
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ShaneB posted:This is good advice. The pleateau is maybe 8 weeks but I've been climbing for maybe 4ish months. Still not a ton, no. Yeah, an 8 week plateau is honestly pretty irrelevant, doubly so if you've only been climbing 4 months. You'll have many more plateaus like that over the years to come. If you hit a plateau that lasts 6 months or more even though you're climbing 3+ days a week, then you need to start thinking about whether or not you want to make lifestyle changes in order to climb harder.
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Feb 12, 2019 16:41
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I had a session yesterday where I sent a couple new problems but felt incredibly dissatisfied with how I sent them. It's becoming a pattern. I spite my way through one, feel accomplished, then am unable to muster the (insert whatever) here to do it again. My guess: I've got the will and stubbornness to do it once, but on the second attempt I'm simply not up to it emotionally. I need to focus on skill-work as right now I'm setting myself for a frustrating next few weeks.
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Feb 12, 2019 17:20
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Those sorts of problems are great for repeat work, ideal even. Force yourself to do it until it's nice and smooth. You know you can climb it, so you can't make up stupid excuses for yourself.
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Feb 12, 2019 17:32
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I always do my very best climbing when I just sent a new route and then make myself repeat it straight away only now I'm acutely aware of both which spots are poo poo and that yes I can actually do all the moves
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Feb 12, 2019 18:27
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I always do my worst climbing when women are watching which is always!
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Feb 12, 2019 19:14
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I've learned that I'm actually a big wuss when it comes to no-hands work on the slab wall.
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Feb 12, 2019 19:16
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've learned that I'm actually a big wuss when it comes to no-hands work on the slab wall. Grow a thick beard so you have a bit more facial protection.
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Feb 12, 2019 19:27
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M. Night Skymall posted:Climbing V7s and V8s that are actually V7s for years now crew checking in.. 4-5 times a week is a recipe for injury.
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Feb 12, 2019 19:50
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Awkward Davies posted:4-5 times a week is a recipe for injury. yeah, if you're 67 years old edit: the nice thing about climbing gyms is that they tend to have many different types of problems. so you can work on crimpy problems one day, then overhangs the next, then slabs the next, etc. That way, you won't put undue burden on a single muscle/tendon group.
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Feb 12, 2019 19:50
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