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Frost inside the windshield today. Car has been parked since Friday. I’m assuming that this is because of snow I’m tracking in to the cabin, probably made worse by pooling in the rubber mats and thus raising the humidity enough that it condenses and freezes. I threw a container of damp rid in the back seat to soak up some moisture, any other tips?
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Jan 28, 2019 13:46
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How do I detach the throttle cable here? Turning the tiny screw doesn't seem to do anything, but that could be because I'm using an adjustable wrench (can't fit a screwdriver into the space between the screw and the throttle body).
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Jan 28, 2019 14:23
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Grakkus posted:How do I detach the throttle cable here? pull up on the throttle so that the wire is slack and slide the wire out the side with the slit?
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Jan 28, 2019 14:27
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CornHolio posted:How long, at idle, does it take to charge your typical 12V battery? Kinds of a 'how long is a piece of string?' question, but I am seeing things like 2 hours at idle to get a flat battery to 80% charged. Stop being lazy, bring the batteries indoors and either leave them on a tender, or give them a proper charge on a charger. Or a solar charger, I guess. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Frost inside the windshield today. Car has been parked since Friday. I’m assuming that this is because of snow I’m tracking in to the cabin, probably made worse by pooling in the rubber mats and thus raising the humidity enough that it condenses and freezes. Running the a/c on full will help dehumidify the inside, but you'll probably freeze to death before getting rid of it all. Paper towels on the floor and pressing hard to soak up moisture is effective, though a bit of effort.
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Jan 28, 2019 14:50
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(psst: windshield defrost setting dries the air, it runs the AC to dry it and then warms the dried air)
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Jan 28, 2019 14:57
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Grakkus posted:How do I detach the throttle cable here? If you rotate the throttle wheel all the way open by turning the throttle wheel, you should see a slit in the wheel; pull the slack on the cable around & pop out the cable sideways through the slit.
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Jan 28, 2019 15:12
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STR posted:THIS, so much this. I discovered the difference between a 24 and 24F battery once the hard way - the batteries look identical, but the terminals are swapped around. Someone I knew did this in a 2009 Chevy Cobalt. The battery is in the trunk, and someone had modified this car to use a side-post battery instead of a top post one, and polarity was the opposite of the OEM type battery which they were trying to install. Blast of sparks! The only causality was the fuse in the aftermarket radio the car had.
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Jan 28, 2019 16:03
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Queen Combat posted:Nope, it's not. Measure your current battery and/or the size in the bay a battery could fit, make a sketch, and hit up the store with the measuring tape and go to town. The biggest/heaviest/most listed CCA. Sounds good thanks. I should have done this two months ago, when it was warmer. Now that I don't share a garage I'm hoping to do a bit more of the simple stuff on the car. I need to buy the Haynes manual. Its a bit confusing as the most recent one is listed as: Subaru Impreza 2002 - 2011 Subaru Impreza WRX 2002 - 2014 Subaru Impreza WRX STI 2004 - 2014 I'm guessing this still covers my regular old Impreza hatchback? Edit: the folks at Haynes say "no" Dukket fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jan 28, 2019 |
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Jan 28, 2019 16:42
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Grakkus posted:How do I detach the throttle cable here? I'm an idiot and turning the tiny screw totally does something. When it comes out you can pop the cable off easily. Thanks guys!
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Jan 28, 2019 17:57
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Frost inside the windshield today. Car has been parked since Friday. I’m assuming that this is because of snow I’m tracking in to the cabin, probably made worse by pooling in the rubber mats and thus raising the humidity enough that it condenses and freezes. Yeah. If it is the type that collects the moisture in some form of container after sucking it up from the air, don't let that poo poo spill. It's horrible to get rid of. I accidentally spilled some on my wooden floor and while it didn't soak into the wood, it didn't get absorbed by the paper towels neither. Took ages to clean up since it also left a slightly sticky residue which I had to wash the floor 3-4 times to get rid of.
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Jan 28, 2019 18:40
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My younger brother bought a 2013 Chevy Traverse LT w/ 100k miles 6 months ago at a local dealership, not a CPO vehicle and no warranty. He owes 11.5k on it now, which is roughly what it would sell for private party around here in good condition, which it is decidedly not after the engine blew up on the interstate the other day. Quotes have come in and he's looking at 6.5-7k in repairs now. What the gently caress do you even do in this situation? Going 7k upside down in a vehicle that has already grenaded once seems insane, but what other viable options are there? He's going to plead his case at the dealership, but neither of us are very optimistic about that. Oh, and to make things even more spicy, he and his wife are expecting their first child in about a month. Good timing!
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Jan 28, 2019 21:50
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Re: ice on the inside of the glass: Unless you've already done so, It helps a lot to clean the inside of the windshield really well too. There are products you can apply after cleaning that help even more from what I've heard, but my problem went away with the windows being squeaky clean, despite water pooling on the floor mats. After an unnamed family member smudged the glass it started misting and icing in just that spot, so I had to do it again.
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Jan 28, 2019 21:54
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Enos Cabell posted:My younger brother bought a 2013 Chevy Traverse LT w/ 100k miles 6 months ago at a local dealership, not a CPO vehicle and no warranty. He owes 11.5k on it now, which is roughly what it would sell for private party around here in good condition, which it is decidedly not after the engine blew up on the interstate the other day. Quotes have come in and he's looking at 6.5-7k in repairs now. What the gently caress do you even do in this situation? Going 7k upside down in a vehicle that has already grenaded once seems insane, but what other viable options are there? He's going to plead his case at the dealership, but neither of us are very optimistic about that. Eat the loss or roll over it into another loan and be deeper than the Titanic. What the hell is the engine BTW? I always get the Traverse and Equinox confused and one or the other normally grenades the engines.
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Jan 28, 2019 22:07
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Eat the loss or roll over it into another loan and be deeper than the Titanic. Looks like it's got the 3.6 LLT engine. I'm not letting that dude pick out his own cars anymore, years back he had a 2002 VW Beetle that created a massive black hole in his wallet.
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Jan 28, 2019 22:13
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Enos Cabell posted:Looks like it's got the 3.6 LLT engine. I'm not letting that dude pick out his own cars anymore, years back he had a 2002 VW Beetle that created a massive black hole in his wallet. Ah ha, hit the mark.
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Jan 28, 2019 22:19
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Get ready to sell the baby.
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Jan 29, 2019 00:01
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tactlessbastard posted:Get ready to sell the baby. I'm trying to get his wife on board with giving a dealership naming rights to the kid in exchange for a new ride.
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Jan 29, 2019 00:56
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Invalido posted:I've had lots of bad luck with using both CA glue and normal 2-part epoxies on thermoplastics. Sometimes it bonds well, often it doesn't bond at all and then it's impossible to make a strong repair. Googling the problem indicates there's a J-B weld product called "plastic bonder" that might work better than the cheap stuff I normally have laying around. If it does bond (you can test a glob somewhere and see if it sticks), you should rough up the mating surfaces with sand paper or something and clean (acetone is good) before gluing. Consider reinforcing the repair with some fiberglass. Even tiny pieces work much better than no reinforcement at all. Doesn't need to be fancy to help make it strong, dry wall strip or something you have laying around will be much better than nothing. Thanks, the JBWeld plastic bonder did exactly the trick! I used superglue to actually hold the pieces in place, but once they could hold on their own I used the plastic bonder epoxy to strengthen it structurally. It has a decent set time of 15 minutes, but a listed cure time of 30 min. In actuality, the epoxy at 30 minutes was still a thick goo. Overnight (10 hours) made me confident in its hold. I'll see how the pieces hold up since the bumper cover will have some constant light stress on the reinforced pieces, but it seems solid for now.
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Jan 29, 2019 01:46
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Epoxy curing times are highly temperature dependent, so that might be your issue. Glad it's (hopefully) worked!
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Jan 29, 2019 06:46
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0toShifty posted:Someone I knew did this in a 2009 Chevy Cobalt. The battery is in the trunk, and someone had modified this car to use a side-post battery instead of a top post one, and polarity was the opposite of the OEM type battery which they were trying to install. Blast of sparks! Side post is the factory setup on those (and most other GMs since the late 70s or so). My car (Ion) has the exact same setup (... the Cobalt, Ion, and G5 are all the same car, though the Ion has a different body and interior - the G5 and Cobalt are identical aside from badging and dash lighting). One of our forum members (who no longer posts much) did exactly this on a Cobalt SS, except he left it hooked up long enough for the magic smoke to start escaping from under the hood. It blew a few fuses, I believe took out the alternator, and had a load of electrical issues after. IIRC he wound up getting rid of it a few months later. This is what I was talking about with the Accord example - you can get the "right" battery with the terminals swapped around really easily. MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah. If it is the type that collects the moisture in some form of container after sucking it up from the air, don't let that poo poo spill. Oh god, this. I had a container sitting on the floorboard and it spilled. MONTHS later (as in a few days ago), I pulled up one of the rear floor mats to vacuum. It was still liquid, and smelled like urinal cakes. If you're gonna use Damprid in a car, use the hanging bag type, not the can. I have to keep a bag in the car all the time because the trunk leaks in some way that I haven't been able to find. Enos Cabell posted:Looks like it's got the 3.6 LLT engine. Colostomy Bag posted:Ah ha, hit the mark. So what's up with the LLT? I'm gonna be in the market for another car in the next year, and a lot of GMs will be on the list (mostly because they depreciate so hard, but many fall apart around the drivetrain, which I'm fine with). The LLT seems to be pretty common. I'd prefer the good ol' 3800, but they quit using that engine long enough ago that finding a car in good shape/lowish miles with a 3800 is pretty difficult.
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Jan 29, 2019 07:38
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STR posted:I'm gonna be in the market for another car in the next year, and a lot of GMs will be on the list (mostly because they depreciate so hard, but many fall apart around the drivetrain, which I'm fine with). 
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Jan 29, 2019 17:38
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Since we're on about anti-moisture products, what should I be looking at to keep my conversion van from getting moldy over a PNW winter? I'm looking into damprid since it was mentioned but ideas welcome.
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Jan 29, 2019 19:20
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Enos Cabell posted:Looks like it's got the 3.6 LLT engine. I'm not letting that dude pick out his own cars anymore, years back he had a 2002 VW Beetle that created a massive black hole in his wallet. Goddamn, it looks like these have a high rate of timing chain failure and the fix is a shorter oil change interval. Can you no longer trust manufacturer OCIs? I've always gone by what the manual says.
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Jan 29, 2019 22:06
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Hey Guys I have a 305 out of a 77 Chevy Nova. Was just wondering if it was worth anything on the sellers market? I see some for sale but that never means they are worth the money. It does have an edelbrock intake manifold on it.
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Jan 29, 2019 23:47
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STR posted:Side post is the factory setup on those (and most other GMs since the late 70s or so). My car (Ion) has the exact same setup (... the Cobalt, Ion, and G5 are all the same car, though the Ion has a different body and interior - the G5 and Cobalt are identical aside from badging and dash lighting). I think they borrowed the timing chain from a huffy at walmart. Also it burns a lot of oil. So much so people run them out of oil because the oil life monitor says its 75% remaining. Which is probably what happened here.
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Jan 30, 2019 00:00
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Hey Guys I have a 305 out of a 77 Chevy Nova. Was just wondering if it was worth anything on the sellers market? I see some for sale but that never means they are worth the money. It does have an edelbrock intake manifold on it. Its not.
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Jan 30, 2019 00:03
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rdb posted:I think they borrowed the timing chain from a huffy at walmart. I've noticed a lot of modern motors have significant oil consumption when new now, people had better get used to checking their oil every other gas fill-up or so. My dad had an early Chevy Vega that burned more than a quart per tank of gas at 50,000 miles, and he still checks the oil on his cars regularly to this day.
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Jan 30, 2019 00:18
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LLT was only in the big crossovers, about 3 years of CTS/STS, SRX, and a couple of years of Camaros. There are a bazillion variants of the 3.6L engine, and the only one the problem has surfaced on is the LLT. What's wrong - GM switched to a semi-synthetic (Dexos) oil blend on this engine, giving owners longer oil life. The LLT engine could consume up to a quart every 2500 miles and still be in spec. On a 10-12k average oil life, the engine could be down 4+ quarts. They also went to a smaller chain with the LLT. Owners weren't checking their oil between oil changes. They didn't know anything was wrong until about the 3rd or 4th oil change when the CEL would come on with a camshaft sensor error or misfire error. The dealers started reprogramming the oil life computers to bring the oil changes back to a 5k -7.5k interval and new cases declined dramatically. All variants since 2011 continue with the 5k-7.5k interval on semi-synthetic and don't seem to have issues. edit: I found the publication I saw this in https://www.motor.com/wp-content/uploads/112013_06.pdf The last paragraph sums it up nicely: In all of this there are some rather major takeaways, servicewise. In terms of oil consumption, the first defense is the dipstick. Your customers may have gotten used to the idea that it’s no longer necessary to check the oil every once in a while. Especially for the earlier versions of this engine, it’s important to keep an eye on it. If the damage has already been done, be sure to check for warranty coverage; there’s extended coverage for some. There’s also a factory reflash that causes the oil change monitor to come on sooner. The second takeaway is to make sure which version of the 3.6L is in the vehicle you’re working on. As noted, there are several really quite different versions, and the latest LF3 shares the displacement and not much else. Goober Peas fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Jan 30, 2019 |
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Jan 30, 2019 00:36
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Hey Guys I have a 305 out of a 77 Chevy Nova. Was just wondering if it was worth anything on the sellers market? I see some for sale but that never means they are worth the money. It does have an edelbrock intake manifold on it. Pull the intake and sell it for $25 bucks. Sell everything else for $10 to a guy looking for a new boat anchor. Sorry man, but 305s ain't worth poo poo.
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Jan 30, 2019 01:23
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Pull the intake and sell it for $25 bucks. Sell everything else for $10 to a guy looking for a new boat anchor. Thanks. I figured as much from looking around. At least I can tear it apart and learn from it, good learning engine.
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Jan 30, 2019 02:04
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Twerk from Home posted:Goddamn, it looks like these have a high rate of timing chain failure and the fix is a shorter oil change interval. haha, travel over to Ford-ville where they installed the wrong dipstick.
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Jan 30, 2019 02:13
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rdb posted:Its not. Maaaaaybe if someone really just needs a running SBC but I wouldn't expect a whole lot over scrap value. A tree fiddy foe boat Maine can be had for cheap for anyone who doesn't want to LS swap.
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Jan 30, 2019 02:23
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Thanks. I figured as much from looking around. At least I can tear it apart and learn from it, good learning engine. That's the best value you'll ever get out of it.
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Jan 30, 2019 03:30
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I would honestly be all over this if it's in good condition and priced right (... and local). Too bad it's a 3100 or 3400, but they're not as bad as a lot of the engines GM put out so long as you change coolant regularly. Twerk from Home posted:My dad had an early Chevy Vega that burned more than a quart per tank of gas at 50,000 miles, and he still checks the oil on his cars regularly to this day. My 91 Integra was like this - it was a quart of oil every fillup. Anytime someone got on my rear end, I'd just downshift and let off the gas. James Bond would have poo poo himself with the smoke screen it put out. Target also really hated when I started it in the morning (I worked overnights there at the time), because it would belch out huge clouds of smoke for a few minutes and basically smoke out the parking lot, right at open. It was... bad. The friend I traded it to for a clutch job on my $200 Civic told me that when he dropped the exhaust to pull the motor, oil poured out of the cat.  The Po had put an adjustable FPR on and had it running really lean (I broke 45 mpg on a road trip in a car rated at <30 highway, doing 90ish the whole way), and I ignored the pinging for way too long.  Goober Peas posted:LLT was only in the big crossovers, about 3 years of CTS/STS, SRX, and a couple of years of Camaros. There are a bazillion variants of the 3.6L engine, and the only one the problem has surfaced on is the LLT. I thought dexos was always synthetic, guess I'm wrong there. I know Mobil 1 (standard, not high mileage or extended performance) is dexos certified. I personally run Mobil 1 High Mileage, and it's what I've run in my last 3 cars. Many, many cars on the market consider 1 qt every 2500 to be normal. But owners of cars that have an oil life monitor consider the OLM to be the same as oil level. 
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Jan 30, 2019 10:20
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Wrar and I are going to check out this older Civic for a DD/commuter for me. https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/d/raleigh-1998-honda-civic-dx/6795847999.html It's been a hot minute either of us have thought about 90's Hondas. Where there any Civic specific things to check for in this generation?
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Jan 30, 2019 13:21
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toplitzin posted:Wrar and I are going to check out this older Civic for a DD/commuter for me. I've been DDing a 98 Civic since 2005 and the only thing I ever really had to do to it was timing belts honestly
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Jan 30, 2019 17:36
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Can anyone see anything obviously wrong that would have caused coolant in the oil here? As you can see, the camshaft above the 2nd cylinder from the right has some milky looking oil, the head bolts from around that cylinder had the same stuff on them. I'm too much of an amateur to know if something is visibly wrong. All I know for sure is that when the last mechanic failed to fix this, he reused stretch head bolts, and one of the washers was put on crooked and is now jammed pretty hard into the head (no idea if either of these things could be a cause or not)    
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Jan 30, 2019 22:22
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toplitzin posted:Wrar and I are going to check out this older Civic for a DD/commuter for me. As mentioned, the timing belt would be the big thing on one of these. If they can't prove it's been done recently, I'd ask for at least that much off their asking price. I'd be curious about the clutch too, but even poorly maintained they really can run forever.
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Jan 30, 2019 23:38
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So, if I decide to get snow tires should I also get a 2nd set of rims under the assumption that pulling tires on and off rims isn't good for them? I've lived in the midwest my whole life and have always stuck with all seasons, but now that I've moved to MN I've convinced myself I need snow tires and summer tires. I have to admit I'm excited to see if replacing my OEM tires results in a quieter ride and better handling car.
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Jan 31, 2019 01:40
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Yes, but not to preserve the tires. New rims will cost the same as paying to mount and balance your tires like twice. You'll save money after a year. Not to mention how much faster it is to just swap the wheels.
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Jan 31, 2019 01:47
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