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Mons Hubris posted:My Vapor Vs have been destroying my big toes lately. It’s like they just squish my toenails to the point that they’re bruised after an hour. Does that sound normal? They may be too small. Unless you just got them in which case they might stretch a bit. Vapours are my go to suggestion for an all around shoe for people with fat feet (like me), but climbing shoes are super personal. Everybody wants to know what the best shoe is for cragging, gym, crack climbing, etc. But really it's all about what actually fits your foot the best
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Feb 17, 2019 03:11
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Mons Hubris posted:My Vapor Vs have been destroying my big toes lately. It’s like they just squish my toenails to the point that they’re bruised after an hour. Does that sound normal? Depends on what you're using them for. Bouldering, then take them off between bouts? Maybe OK. Long day of multipitch trad? lol. That said, now that I'm mumble-mumble years old, I prefer climbing shoes that fit almost like street shoes. Yes, I've given up pursuing 5.12.
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Feb 18, 2019 02:37
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At what point should I start thinking about upgrading my shoes from the noob friendly scarpa origins I have? I don't wanna throw money at shoes that aren't going to help me more than just practicing, but I think I could deal with something less comfortable if they perform better.
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Feb 18, 2019 02:51
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My gym shoes are the tenaya Tanta. My opinion is the shoes don't really matter in the gym. If anything they make you stronger and have better foot work if you want to stay on. I also like that I can get them for less than $90.
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Feb 18, 2019 03:12
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I've given in and bought a harness. Makin' the move from bouldering to top rope. God help us all.
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Feb 18, 2019 19:52
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Decided to take the plunge and buy shoes. After trying the cheaper models I found them all pretty uncomfortable so I ended up buying the Force V. Spent a bit more than I Would have liked, but I figure 50$ won't make much of a difference in the end and once I resole them the difference in price will be even less. Anyway I'm guessing being comfortable is pretty important if I'm going to stick with this. I just hope they don't stretch too much cause they are as tight as I could possibly comfortably wear (toes curled, but somehow not painfully squished like I was in Defy's) Visited a new gym and it's amazingly cheap while being pretty cool and less than a 3 minutes walk from my place, can't believe I didn't know they existed. They even have some funky Ninja Warrior stuff which might be fun to try. Is there an approved/smart warm-up and/or preventive exercises I should start doing? I already weightlift several times a week and wouldn't mind adding 10 minutes of stuff. Especially since I'll probably be cutting most/all grip stuff I do. I don't plan on doing any specific strength exercises or anything, but if there's smart stuff I could do to prevent being injured I'd be all for it.
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Feb 19, 2019 00:39
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Welp, back in to bouldering for 2019 after a 5 year break where I got fat as poo poo. Upside I can still flash the occasional V3 and I’m working a V4 Also a bouldering gym opened up 6 blocks from my house Mezzanon fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 10:29
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What does flash mean? Just do it without having much of a struggle?
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Feb 19, 2019 19:22
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Loose Ifer posted:What does flash mean? Just do it without having much of a struggle? First attempt at a route.
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Feb 19, 2019 19:27
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Loose Ifer posted:What does flash mean? Just do it without having much of a struggle? Completing a climb with no falls or "takes" (resting with the rope holding your weight, for roped climbs) is called "sending it" or a "send". Doing that on your first attempt at the climb without knowing anything about it beforehand, and without having watched someone else climb it is called an "on sight". Doing that when you have some prior knowledge of the climb or have watched someone on it already is a "flash". Sending the climb after one or more attempts, thus not an onsight or a flash, is called a "red point"
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Feb 19, 2019 19:28
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Loose Ifer posted:What does flash mean? Just do it without having much of a struggle? https://www.thebmc.co.uk/climbing-how-to-talk-the-talk All the wads do it.
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Feb 19, 2019 19:28
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So I got something vaguely appearing to be approval to drill into the concrete walls of my workplace and install a hangboard for funsies and training. Anyone have any major opinions on a must-have hangboard?
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Feb 19, 2019 21:42
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Wrr posted:So I got something vaguely appearing to be approval to drill into the concrete walls of my workplace and install a hangboard for funsies and training. Anyone have any major opinions on a must-have hangboard? Either of the Rock Prodigy boards + their timer app that runs you through a variety of grips.
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Feb 19, 2019 23:54
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climbing terminology is by far and away the lamest thing about the sport
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Feb 19, 2019 23:58
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All sports and industries have their jargon though so eh no worse than any others
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Feb 20, 2019 00:00
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armorer posted:Completing a climb with no falls or "takes" (resting with the rope holding your weight, for roped climbs) is called "sending it" or a "send". Doing that on your first attempt at the climb without knowing anything about it beforehand, and without having watched someone else climb it is called an "on sight". Doing that when you have some prior knowledge of the climb or have watched someone on it already is a "flash". Sending the climb after one or more attempts, thus not an onsight or a flash, is called a "red point" I've never heard anyone say that they on-sighted a gym bouldering problem, and instead have heard flash more often. Is that a my gym only thing or does the community as a whole not say on site for gym problems?
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Feb 20, 2019 00:05
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Slimy Hog posted:I've never heard anyone say that they on-sighted a gym bouldering problem, and instead have heard flash more often. Is that a my gym only thing or does the community as a whole not say on site for gym problems? Never heard it for a gym problem ever.
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Feb 20, 2019 00:08
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Slimy Hog posted:I've never heard anyone say that they on-sighted a gym bouldering problem, and instead have heard flash more often. Is that a my gym only thing or does the community as a whole not say on site for gym problems? I'm more of a lead climber than a boulderer. I think I've heard it used in both contexts even in the gym, but I haven't ever really thought about it. I just figured I'd point out the distinction since I was writing it out at all.
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Feb 20, 2019 00:19
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Wrr posted:So I got something vaguely appearing to be approval to drill into the concrete walls of my workplace and install a hangboard for funsies and training. Anyone have any major opinions on a must-have hangboard? The beastmaker 1000 is a great choice if you don’t want a plastic hangboard.
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Feb 20, 2019 00:42
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Verviticus posted:climbing terminology is by far and away the lamest thing about the sport yeah, few things sound as stupid as "sending" a problem
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Feb 20, 2019 03:47
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ShaneB posted:Never heard it for a gym problem ever. Definitely still applies.
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Feb 20, 2019 05:17
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Climbing terminology is the best thing about the sport.
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Feb 20, 2019 14:49
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People hating on climbing terminology is the worst thing about the sport; the terminology itself is not too bad and it gives everyone a common language to talk about the same thing. The whole "Climbing terms suck and are silly" is a meme at this point.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:11
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Climbing as a concept is loving silly. We have ladders now, guys. Embrace this is silly and say your silly words and have fun with the silly hobby.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:25
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Ill have you know that when I try to find the hardest and dumbest way to climb on top of some nameless rock its very serious
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Feb 20, 2019 17:50
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Hello thread. My little brother was regularly climbing years ago and had to give it up when he moved back in with my mom. He hasn't done anything the last few years and has gained a bunch of weight/gotten out of shape. He will be moving to Richmond VA where I live and will probably take up climbing again once he's down here. I'd like to get into it a bit to help motivate him and for something we can both do together since we've never had anything like that. I found a really nice indoor spot that would be close to where he will be living and went for a few hours last night. I rode bikes for 16 years and have been weight lifting for the last 3, so I'm in decent enough shape. I'm going to spend the next few days watching videos on ways to help improve my technique, but I wasn't sure how often I should be climbing as a beginner. I feel a little beat up today, but it isn't too bad. I have a minor bicep strain from a few months ago that hasn't fully gone away, but my physical therapist said that working it out a bit isn't the worst thing in the world and there was only one handhold last night that did anything to irritate it further. There is an REI up the road from where I live so I was going to pick up some shoes and a harness this week to avoid rental fees at the wall. SO I guess my question is how often should I be going as a beginner? I don't want to over work myself since this is all pretty new to my body, but I also don't want to slack off and stall. I'd like to be ready to go when he gets here.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:02
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Speaking of silly sport here’s a fun video of Honnold reviewing movie climbing scenes. https://youtu.be/R7qSiEKntQA George H.W. Cunt fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Feb 20, 2019 |
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Feb 20, 2019 19:03
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On Terra Firma posted:Hello thread. My little brother was regularly climbing years ago and had to give it up when he moved back in with my mom. He hasn't done anything the last few years and has gained a bunch of weight/gotten out of shape. He will be moving to Richmond VA where I live and will probably take up climbing again once he's down here. I'd like to get into it a bit to help motivate him and for something we can both do together since we've never had anything like that. 3-4 times a week is fine. Are you going to Triangle Rock Club in Richmond? That's my local gym in NC and the Richmond location looks really nice on Instagram.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:23
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Mons Hubris posted:3-4 times a week is fine. Are you going to Triangle Rock Club in Richmond? That's my local gym in NC and the Richmond location looks really nice on Instagram. Yep! It's like 15 minutes from where I live and it's really nice. It was packed at 930 last night which surprised me.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:49
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I don’t know if people do this here, but I’ll take a chance. I decided to start bouldering and here’s two videos from my second day. I’d like to know if there’s anything obvious I should keep in mind that I’m not doing or if there’s anything I should stop doing. Not specifically about the problem itself, but just general climbing stuff. I’d like to develop good habits from the start. The only thing that jumps at me is that I stop looking at footholds before putting my foot on them. The first one is a V3. I got further on other attempts, but that’s the only one I recorded. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q97MRCnKvY This is a V2 that’s quite different so it might show Different stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C9UX9_n5lw KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Feb 20, 2019 |
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Feb 20, 2019 21:54
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George H.W. oval office posted:Speaking of silly sport here’s a fun video of Honnold reviewing movie climbing scenes. He is surprisingly charismatic for a guy I originally heard described as Autistic.
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Feb 20, 2019 22:09
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KingColliwog posted:I don’t know if people do this here, but I’ll take a chance. I'm not sure the V2 is intended to be as dynamic as you make it look. I think in general your problem is you don't really control your movements well, and end up sort of stabbing at things with your limbs. You're more guilty of that on the V3, that kind of route's going to go much better if you slow everything down and think about where you're shifting your weight as you move and place your feet. Anyway looks pretty good for only climbing I guess a couple times. You'll probably need to become more comfortable with only having 1 foot on at a time as you move up the grades and using the other to position your body/hips. You also might want to spend more time at lower grades really making your movements feel smooth instead of muscling your way through harder routes.
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Feb 20, 2019 22:19
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ShaneB posted:He is surprisingly charismatic for a guy I originally heard described as Autistic. Go watch any of his interviews 10 years ago or whenever they started. He has really changed.
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Feb 20, 2019 22:34
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KingColliwog posted:I don’t know if people do this here, but I’ll take a chance. You should really be climbing easier problems. Climb slowly. Deliberately consider exactly where you're putting your hands and feet on each move. Make your movements as efficient as possible; try to avoid dynamic movements entirely if you can. You're obviously in good shape and want to climb hard but it's much easier to learn technique when you're not forcing yourself to power through moves because your technique sucks. If you're already doing this as well as throwing yourself at harder stuff then that's good!
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Feb 20, 2019 22:50
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KingColliwog posted:I don’t know if people do this here, but I’ll take a chance. A bit hard to tell from the footage, especially for the 1st video since your foot just kind of pops off and it's hard to see the holds, so take with a grain of salt, but... the two things that jump out to me are 1) better initiating movement through your lower body, and 2) keeping tension through moves 1) It seems most of your movement is initiated by your upper body, i.e. by pulling with your arms. Learning how to initiate movement with your lower body, often through turning or extending your hips in different directions, is key to climbing harder/better. In the 2nd video for instance, on the 2nd move where you still have your left hand on the start hold (@12s), you appear to pull pretty hard to kind of launch yourself up to the next hold. Instead, it looks like you may be able to flag your right foot out hard to the right and really turn your left hip hard into the wall, which would pull the left side of your body in closer to the wall, extending your reach with your left hand and minimizing both how hard you have to pull to reach the next hold as well as the extra force required to stabilize yourself after launching. 2) Related to 1) but with more of a focus on how to complete and link moves rather than how you start them. Again in the 2nd video, at about 15s you are matching your right hand to your left, and once you match you swing a bit which requires some effort to control. If your right foot had been flagged hard right and you had really focused on pulling your toes in on your left foot, you probably would have swung much less if at all. For the last move at about 28s, with the foot switch and hand match, again your feet/lower body are superficially in the right places at the right time, but they don't appear to be engaged or doing much work. Pull with your toes, squeeze your rear end, suck your hips into the wall, and you'll find yourself climbing much less jerkily. I think a lot of times folks misguidedly focus on climbing statically vs. dynamically -- i.e. static being being climbing with no explosive movement vs. dynamic having more explosiveness. Just because static climbing might look "smoother" and like a more masterful demonstration of strength than dynamic climbing, doesn't mean static climbing is the right style to use all (or even most) of the time. The goal of using your lower body and climbing with more tension isn't to climb more statically -- it's to minimize unnecessary movement/effort. This might still mean you need to climb dynamically and swing around, but as you get better you'll learn to harness your momentum to your advantage rather than have it be something you have to fight against. This is my PSA against static climbing.
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Feb 20, 2019 23:06
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:I think a lot of times folks misguidedly focus on climbing statically vs. dynamically -- i.e. static being being climbing with no explosive movement vs. dynamic having more explosiveness. Just because static climbing might look "smoother" and like a more masterful demonstration of strength than dynamic climbing, doesn't mean static climbing is the right style to use all (or even most) of the time. The goal of using your lower body and climbing with more tension isn't to climb more statically -- it's to minimize unnecessary movement/effort. This might still mean you need to climb dynamically and swing around, but as you get better you'll learn to harness your momentum to your advantage rather than have it be something you have to fight against. This is my PSA against static climbing. I'm super guilty of this and have spent the last year or 2 really forcing myself to learn to make moves dynamically because I was getting shut down on easy bullshit because it wasn't a static move. That said you can still make dynamic moves look really smooth where you jump exactly as far as you need to hit the hold with your arm bent and put your feet on the wall etc. and that gets really important eventually to not just be jumping at poo poo for the sake of it, but using your momentum to carry you through to the proper body position to hold onto whatever you're jumping to.
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Feb 20, 2019 23:11
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I, for one, appreciate the videos and beta chat ITT
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Feb 20, 2019 23:46
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:I think a lot of times folks misguidedly focus on climbing statically vs. dynamically -- i.e. static being being climbing with no explosive movement vs. dynamic having more explosiveness. Just because static climbing might look "smoother" and like a more masterful demonstration of strength than dynamic climbing, doesn't mean static climbing is the right style to use all (or even most) of the time. The goal of using your lower body and climbing with more tension isn't to climb more statically -- it's to minimize unnecessary movement/effort. This might still mean you need to climb dynamically and swing around, but as you get better you'll learn to harness your momentum to your advantage rather than have it be something you have to fight against. This is my PSA against static climbing. Aside from gym problems that expect/require dynos, I prefer climbing statically whenever possible. It forces me to think through a problem as carefully as possible and use good technique, which in turn minimizes energy usage, at least for me. There have been many problems where I originally tried certain moves dynamically and got exhausted, and then realized I could utilize a clever heel/toe hook somewhere and convert an otherwise "expensive" dynamic move into a very simple and easy static move.
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Feb 21, 2019 00:20
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Hard to tell for sure but on video 2 I would be interested in you trying the following: Match undercling start Left hand to first hold on right, turn right hip Right foot on foot between hand and foot start Right had to second jug (cross) Left had to third jug (cross again) From there hard to tell but maybe right foot up, match hands, swing feet, move hands to finish P.S. I am totally Adam Ondra-ing in my hotel room right now 
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Feb 21, 2019 00:53
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spwrozek posted:Hard to tell for sure but on video 2 I would be interested in you trying the following: Careful, you might get a noise complaint from so much screaming.
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Feb 21, 2019 03:54
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