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Ah okay, so you have the full bundle of wires into the doors. That's gonna be pretty drat tight to pull new wire through. The wires are just behind the kick panel covers I think (maybe slightly higher), you may be able to splice new wire into the existing door wiring at that point, but that still leaves you with paper thin wire in the doors. So long as you're not entering any SPL competitions, you can probably just splice into the factory wiring either behind the kick panels, or behind the head unit, assuming nothing is too hosed up. Or cut the existing speaker wiring out of the doors to make a little more room to pull some new wire. I don't know how tall the BA amp is; you might be able to fit it under one of the seats. There's nothing under the passenger seat (not even an occupancy sensor in the seat or seat belt clip, since it has single stage air bags), and the seats come out easy. Should be able to ground the amp to one of the seat bolts if you can get a large enough ring terminal, and don't think there's any other wiring running under the carpet there. The drivers side has a 2 or 3 wire connector going to the seat belt clip that may get in the way, and does have other wiring running under it. I think the airbag controller resides in the center console near the shifter, so you'll want to be careful grounding anything near there. Oh yeah, if you need to pull codes without a reader, there's a green 2 pin connector behind the passenger kick panel. Short it with a paper clip and the CEL should blink out codes. There's also a 2 pin blue connector, but you want the green one. ECU is also in there, or under the carpet near there (so it's cramped). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Feb 5, 2019 |
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Feb 5, 2019 13:36
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It was pretty thin, maybe 2-3". It managed to fit under the WRX driver seat just peachy. These are component with woofer and tweeter, so i'll probably have to pull cable anyway, unless I put the crossovers in the door. I'm fine with popping the doors off and running it that way if the access makes it easier. Worst case, i'll go take it to the local audio shop i had do work on the Volvo and just say "gently caress it, install it all please"
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Feb 5, 2019 14:08
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STR posted:That's normal. You usually have one going from the battery to the chassis, another going to the engine block (usually also bolted the chassis, often as a flat flex cable like what you described), and occasionally even another. Ok, the majority of the cars I've worked on have had either one battery ground and that's it, or one battery ground and one wire that pulls a few negative cables from important engine electronics to the battery terminal. Never seen a third wire before, or a stock negative battery cable running through the firewall It confused me a lot Going back through the service manual, I think you're right about the diodes in the alternator, although I'm shocked they've lasted the 10k miles I've put on it. I really don't want to replace that thing until I have to, but if it's finally causing trouble, it's time to go
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Feb 5, 2019 18:50
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Having trouble searching here, and searching Google gives the worst buzzfeed style articles: Is there a consensus on a decent cheap android auto enabled double din deck ? Chinese ones are fine too, as long as I can order them from Amazon or something. I don't want to wait 8 weeks for a container shipment. It's just going in a grand Cherokee I bought for a friend so I don't want to dump a ton of money on something that'll likely get jacked by a crack head. (Same reasoning I bought a 2005 Cherokee)
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Feb 10, 2019 19:47
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Since wrecking my previous car, I now have two JVC Android Auto double DIN head units I need to get rid of (wink). I liked it when I was using it. KW-M730BT and KW-M740BT I think the go-to is a Sony unit with a volume knob. I think it was the AX100. All are in the $300 range. Not sure if that's cheap enough.
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Feb 10, 2019 20:05
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Uthor posted:I think the go-to is a Sony unit with a volume knob. I think it was the AX100. Huge fan. Supports steering wheel control, rearview camera, external mic, etc. Really easy to flash so that you bypass the warning screen on startup too.
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Feb 11, 2019 00:41
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Uthor posted:Since wrecking my previous car, I now have two JVC Android Auto double DIN head units I need to get rid of (wink). I liked it when I was using it. Where abouts do you live ? Shipping to Canada can be kinda pricey.
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Feb 16, 2019 12:37
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jonathan posted:Where abouts do you live ? Shipping to Canada can be kinda pricey. Yeah, it probably is. I'm in Central Illinois.
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Feb 16, 2019 13:58
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Are there any kits or how-tos on putting a double DIN in a 2000 Mustang? Crutchfield thinks it won't fit, but it sure looks like you could just cut the plastic support in between the two single slots and stuff a double DIN in there.
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Feb 21, 2019 04:52
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Krakkles posted:Are there any kits or how-tos on putting a double DIN in a 2000 Mustang? Crutchfield thinks it won't fit, but it sure looks like you could just cut the plastic support in between the two single slots and stuff a double DIN in there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ilLIBBnNfk It won't stop raining here, so along with some other reasons I'm just going to have the local shop install all the gear in the Civic.
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Feb 21, 2019 13:55
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toplitzin posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ilLIBBnNfk Best idea I’ve got so far is find an 01-04 and grab the trim, hope it fits.
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Feb 21, 2019 14:23
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, I saw that too. Unfortunately, though he lists 99-04, that’s actually 01-04 - it looks like the 99-00 had separate single DIN. I mean aren't the new edges just a body refresh on the SN95s? If so, it might be as easy as you're thinking. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-1304-1994-2004-ford-mustang-interior-upgrades/ https://www.sn95forums.com/threads/double-din-radio-bezel-install.21530/ https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/double-din-conversion-questions.866846/ https://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f280/t357984/ It looks like the grab the trim and do the thing is what these few posts have done. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 14:33
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Groovy! Found a bezel on eBay, ordered. Thank you!
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Feb 21, 2019 21:31
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Cross-posting in the hope of finding an answer:Krakkles posted:Hey y'all, got a question. I'm trying to identify some superfluous connectors in a 2000 Mustang GT (w/ Mach 460). The car had an aftermarket headunit when I bought it, and I'm currently replacing it with something that isn't a Sony. However, there are three connectors which were unused up until this point, and I wanted to find out what they are. (These were all unplugged for the last ~ Krakkles fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 00:51
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Thinking there may have been some advanced for its time features like adaptive volume or steering wheel controls I did a casual Google search and found this: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/some-vital-info-about-your-mach-460-1000.538244/ TL;DR according to a self-described EE the way the stock stereo system was wired can best be described as  If the aftermarket system works with all that stuff disconnected I wouldn't worry about it.
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Mar 1, 2019 02:49
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Geoj posted:Thinking there may have been some advanced for its time features like adaptive volume or steering wheel controls I did a casual Google search and found this:
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Mar 1, 2019 03:32
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Not really a question, just posting my current project. I got a 2013 BRZ about a month ago and the stock headunit is just as bad as everyone says it is. I wanted something with CarPlay, a CD player, and a volume knob, and settled on the Sony XAV-AX200. I finally got it mostly installed this week and it has been working pretty well. Complaints are the interface lags at times, the touch screen is resistive and feels a bit dated (especially when the system lags), and there's no mute or off function that's easily accessible. The Metra double din adapter kit doesn't really match the stereo or interior at all, but its basically the only thing on the market that fits except for maybe one from the UK, but that costs $60 shipped and I can't find any reviews on it so I'm not ready to risk that yet. I also got rid of the 12V socket in the center console and replaced it with a USB outlet that is connected to the headunit (and had to find a right angle cable to get it to fit nicely.  I need to find a USB hub that is compatible with the headunit so I can the second port on that outlet working, as well as the original one under the climate controls. Next step will be getting the backup camera I also picked up installed. I did the wiring on the headunit side and verified everything works, its just a matter of cutting a hole in the trunk lid and running all the wiring up from there. At some point I'd like to add a bit of sound dampening throughout the car, and then maybe upgrade some of the speakers.
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Mar 3, 2019 01:18
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DrChu posted:the touch screen is resistive For the question side of things: If I want to switch on my camera based on the backup lights or a manual switch, how do I wire dual power? It seems like if I just run both wires in, it'll power on my backup lights when I flip the switch. Which ... I debated whether or not I even mind that, because it'd make it more obvious the camera is on, and probably light up whatever I'm looking at, but I'm curious how else it could be done - I know there's a way, I just have no idea what it is.
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Mar 5, 2019 22:54
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This is a basic integrated circuitry problem. What you're describing is an OR gate, in which the output is powered if any given input is powered. The inputs are dielectrically separated so they don't interefere with each other. This being said, I'm horrible at actual IC design so I can only show you the door.
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Mar 5, 2019 23:27
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DrChu posted:Complaints are the interface lags at times, the touch screen is resistive and feels a bit dated (especially when the system lags), and there's no mute or off function that's easily accessible. The xav series has customizable steering wheel controls. Go to the heading steering wheel control settings and select CUSTOM and then program a button to mute or ATT (lowers volume to 10%). On the hub portion, I'm pretty sure the USB on the head unit is USB 2, and limited to 500mA or something. Might be worth it to have one of those USB power meters to test what the max output is, because you may need to tap into the cars aux power to get an active USB hub working, if the provided USB power doesn't support it.
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Mar 6, 2019 00:37
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Krakkles posted:This is one of those big things I didn't know I really cared about but I'm glad something tipped me off to - I got the Pioneer MVH-1400NEX particularly because I wanted a capacitive screen, and this makes me glad I did. quote:For the question side of things: If I want to switch on my camera based on the backup lights or a manual switch, how do I wire dual power? It seems like if I just run both wires in, it'll power on my backup lights when I flip the switch. Which ... I debated whether or not I even mind that, because it'd make it more obvious the camera is on, and probably light up whatever I'm looking at, but I'm curious how else it could be done - I know there's a way, I just have no idea what it is. Wasabi the J posted:The xav series has customizable steering wheel controls. Go to the heading steering wheel control settings and select CUSTOM and then program a button to mute or ATT (lowers volume to 10%). The first hub I used I tried it both external powered and bus powered, it just didn't know what to do with it and said the device was unsupported. I ordered one off of ebay that someone claimed worked on theirs and it finally arrived today, I will give it a try tomorrow. Mostly I just want a second port active for charging for when I'm on longer drives with my girlfriend and the only 12V is in the glovebox which makes it inconvenient to use.
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Mar 6, 2019 02:18
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um excuse me posted:This is a basic integrated circuitry problem. What you're describing is an OR gate, in which the output is powered if any given input is powered. The inputs are dielectrically separated so they don't interefere with each other. This being said, I'm horrible at actual IC design so I can only show you the door. DrChu posted:I tested mine out by tapping the camera power line to the 12V acc line going into the head unit. The head unit switches to the screen automatically based on the reverse trigger, and I should be able to start it anytime manually if I want using the on screen options. I guess this way the camera is always powered on if the car is, is there any reason that would be a bad thing? Mine was $21.99, sooooo ... Oh! And while I wanted to be able to switch to the camera view and just look without putting the car in reverse, the real reason I wanted to be able to control the power separately was that I was worried about a delay when activating it. Total non-issue - it boots and sends an image instantly. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 15:58
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I got an old camry with I believe stock speakers (separate tweeters and 6.25" in the front doors, 6x9s in the back). It has an aftermarket receiver installed and there is a persistent white noise/hiss sound coming from the tweeters. Also, the volume is basically way way too loud at anything higher than 4 or 5. Does this mean the stock speakers are too sensitive for the aftermarket stereo? I have reset the receiver to original settings and played with the gain, volume adjust, crossover, everything to no avail. I even checked the wiring and it seems fine. The hiss is very consistent, remains the same volume no matter what settings I change on the receiver, on any input. Loud music drowns it out but I'd rather fix it. polyester concept fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Mar 8, 2019 |
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Mar 8, 2019 19:13
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Sounds like the impedance of the system may be too low. Often stock speakers have unusual impedance and are wired in either parallel or series to use 6 speakers on a normal 4 channel amp. Maybe someone has hosed with the wiring like rewired two 1 ohm speakers that where in series giving a 2 ohm channel, to parallel giving a 0,5 ohm channel? You can try wiring in a 1-2 ohm resistor in line with the speaker wire (either + or -) coming out of your receiver. I do not know the impedance of your particular system though.
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Mar 8, 2019 19:47
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Why do fancy upgrade OEM systems always have weird speaker impedance? Bose is usually something really low like 2 ohms or whatever, and I've just discovered that our LS430's Mark Levinson sound system has a 16 ohm subwoofer. What's the deal? I've never had any normal speaker component that was somewhere in the 4 to 8 ohm range.
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Mar 8, 2019 22:33
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powderific posted:Why do fancy upgrade OEM systems always have weird speaker impedance? Bose is usually something really low like 2 ohms or whatever, and I've just discovered that our LS430's Mark Levinson sound system has a 16 ohm subwoofer. What's the deal? I've never had any normal speaker component that was somewhere in the 4 to 8 ohm range. Question: If I'm getting alternator feedback (whine that matches engine RPM), am I better off adding a ground (I.e., keep the existing ground, but tee in another ground to a separate point) or replacing the ground entirely (ditch the one in the harness, just use one to bare metal behind the dash)? I'm open to either but don't know what's more likely to fix it. The old head unit was using the harness ground and had no issue so I was hopeful it would work with this one as well, but no dice.
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Mar 9, 2019 00:10
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Humbug posted:Sounds like the impedance of the system may be too low. Often stock speakers have unusual impedance and are wired in either parallel or series to use 6 speakers on a normal 4 channel amp. Maybe someone has hosed with the wiring like rewired two 1 ohm speakers that where in series giving a 2 ohm channel, to parallel giving a 0,5 ohm channel? You can try wiring in a 1-2 ohm resistor in line with the speaker wire (either + or -) coming out of your receiver. I do not know the impedance of your particular system though. This sounds promising. Could I easily measure the resistance of each channel if I removed the harness and probed the speaker wires with a multimeter? The receiver says I need 4-8 ohms so I am guessing anything lower than that will need to be boosted. I am guessing I would need to buy resistors with a max power rating of 50W? Would this also explain the extremely sensitive volume? Maybe the other speakers are affected too but I can't notice the hiss because they aren't ear-level tweeters.
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Mar 9, 2019 00:13
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polyester concept posted:This sounds promising. Could I easily measure the resistance of each channel if I removed the harness and probed the speaker wires with a multimeter? The receiver says I need 4-8 ohms so I am guessing anything lower than that will need to be boosted. I am guessing I would need to buy resistors with a max power rating of 50W? Yes. Set your multimeter to Ohms and measure across the + and - post at the receiver. This has the added bonus of showing resistance in the wiring loom, although that shouldn't mater too much as long as you're only using the receiver to power the speakers. This is likely the cause of your sensitive volume as well Low impedance speakers require less power to play the same volume as a high impedance speaker, but may damage amplifiers if below its rated resistance threshold. [Edit] Adding resistors isn't really the greatest fix, since you are cutting already limited power from the receiver, and the reduction may not be uniform across all frequencies. New speakers making your impedance spec or rewiring from parallel to series if applicable would be better. Humbug fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Mar 9, 2019 |
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Mar 9, 2019 00:26
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Understood. I will try re-wiring first and then maybe get resistors if I need them as a stop-gap until I can afford new speakers.
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Mar 9, 2019 00:50
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Would improper impedance explain the issue I described earlier in the thread (check my post history,) where a new HU with the stock speakers doesn't necessarily hiss but puts significant strain on my ears at any volume? (I installed the HU in like November before it started getting really cold and haven't had the opportunity to install aftermarket speakers yet.)
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Mar 9, 2019 09:00
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Atomizer posted:Would improper impedance explain the issue I described earlier in the thread (check my post history,) where a new HU with the stock speakers doesn't necessarily hiss but puts significant strain on my ears at any volume? (I installed the HU in like November before it started getting really cold and haven't had the opportunity to install aftermarket speakers yet.) It could be, but it could be a host of other issues too. Ear strain is pretty vague, but i guess intermittent high pitched whine is the cause? Could be bad grounds too. Checking the impedance at the receiver is pretty quick and easy, but be aware that the multimeter to + and - method isn't really accurate, as it only shows the resistance at the DC voltage output by the multimeter which I think is usually around three volts. Making a resistance curve for the entire range of frequencies is more involved. Your speakers could have lower resistance at high frequencies, leading to breaking up in the higher frequencies? I'm slightly theory crafting here, as I usually go for aftermarket speakers where I can control impedance. https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-Speaker-Impedance
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Mar 9, 2019 14:39
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Krakkles posted:Question: If I'm getting alternator feedback (whine that matches engine RPM), am I better off adding a ground (I.e., keep the existing ground, but tee in another ground to a separate point) or replacing the ground entirely (ditch the one in the harness, just use one to bare metal behind the dash)?
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Mar 9, 2019 19:36
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I'm of the opinion that the more the merrier when it comes to grounds, as long as it doesn't become messy or confusing. Try to tee in the new ground as close to the receiver as possible. I would leave the stock ground in place. Have you measured any voltage drops at the headunit? Do you have any amps or crossovers? Have you checked the body-battery and engine-body grounds as well?
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Mar 9, 2019 20:37
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If your HU is otherwise functioning fine I have a hard time believing there is an issue with it's grounding. I'd look more at the other grounds like the poster above mentioned.
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Mar 9, 2019 21:15
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Humbug posted:It could be, but it could be a host of other issues too. Ear strain is pretty vague, but i guess intermittent high pitched whine is the cause? Could be bad grounds too. Checking the impedance at the receiver is pretty quick and easy, but be aware that the multimeter to + and - method isn't really accurate, as it only shows the resistance at the DC voltage output by the multimeter which I think is usually around three volts. Making a resistance curve for the entire range of frequencies is more involved. Your speakers could have lower resistance at high frequencies, leading to breaking up in the higher frequencies? I'm slightly theory crafting here, as I usually go for aftermarket speakers where I can control impedance. Yeah, I know it's difficult to describe the effect, which makes it all the more frustrating to troubleshoot the issue.  I had previously described it as almost like that ear-piercing feeling from excessive high frequencies, like from crappy laptop* or smartphone speakers with the volume cranked up and where there's no low-end. It's not exactly the same though, and it occurs when any audio is playing from the system, and regardless of the settings (I tried everything, reducing the high frequencies, low frequencies, enhancements, etc.) I disconnected the factory tweeters (which are custom mounted and I wasn't going to replace them anyway) with no change, either to audio quality or discomfort level. An RTA app didn't show anything particularly profound. I'm at a loss here; I've been using the system sparingly, knowing that it's causing minor headaches when I do but that I spent quite a bit of money on the gear.LIke I said the weather's been too crappy for me to do any further work or testing on the car since last year (I'd have to do this outside, in the cold, and for example it's pouring right now.) When it becomes nicer I plan to install the speakers that I got, which at least were identified as compatible with the new HU; the stock system is very basic and old enough where I can't find any details on the components. Is it reasonable to assume that with aftermarket speakers this issue might be resolved, and the HU itself isn't necessarily malfunctioning? *I had a first-gen Samsung Chromebook that was like this. The whole device was cheap, slow, and crappy, but it was downright painful to listen to anything through those speakers. It was almost like they used undersized smartphone speakers that were over-driven or something? Needless to say I got rid of that thing a long time ago.
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Mar 10, 2019 00:30
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Humbug posted:I'm of the opinion that the more the merrier when it comes to grounds, as long as it doesn't become messy or confusing. Try to tee in the new ground as close to the receiver as possible. I would leave the stock ground in place. Have you measured any voltage drops at the headunit? Do you have any amps or crossovers? Have you checked the body-battery and engine-body grounds as well? The Mach 460 hardware in my 2000 Mustang GT does have external amps (x2), but no crossovers, as far as I know. The wiring for these amps have not changed beyond the plug that goes to the headunit (at which point, I've used a new adapter which goes to the RCA outs on my headunit). I have not looked at the body-battery or engine-body grounds, but can definitely do so - is there anything specific I'm looking for, or basically just making sure that they're there and well-connected and substantial? (I.e., add some grounding straps) Thank you both for your input - I was always under the impression that grounding of the headunit was to blame for this, so it's good to learn.
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Mar 10, 2019 02:03
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Krakkles posted:To be honest, I'm not sure how to do this, but I do have a multimeter and I'm more than willing to learn. Does the '00 GT have a supercharger? You're not hearing that whine are you? Sorry I know it seems like a dumb thing to rule out but a SC will absolutely give a whine based on engine RPM.
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Mar 10, 2019 02:15
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VelociBacon posted:Does the '00 GT have a supercharger? You're not hearing that whine are you? Sorry I know it seems like a dumb thing to rule out but a SC will absolutely give a whine based on engine RPM. I wish that were my problem!
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Mar 10, 2019 02:19
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Krakkles posted:Nope, 5.4L NA, in my case. In that case since you asked about the multimeter thing you basically want to set your multimeter to this icon(continuity, if you don't have that mode set it to the lowest ohm setting) and test it by touching the two probes together, it should go from a 1 to basically 0.001 or so. Now that you've tested that put one probe on the ground terminal (black, -ve) and touch the area that you want to attach your ground to with the other probe. If you get the same result (0.001 or similar) then the point you've found is good for a ground. If you're using a bolt hole like most people it often helps to take sandpaper to the surrounding area just around the hole where a spade or ring connector would contact to make sure that you're getting good connection to the metal of the car and not the paint. Also make sure if you're grounding part of the engine to the firewall or w/e that you leave enough slack for the movement of the engine relative to the firewall.
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Mar 10, 2019 02:48
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Humbug posted:Yes. Set your multimeter to Ohms and measure across the + and - post at the receiver. This has the added bonus of showing resistance in the wiring loom, although that shouldn't mater too much as long as you're only using the receiver to power the speakers. This is likely the cause of your sensitive volume as well Low impedance speakers require less power to play the same volume as a high impedance speaker, but may damage amplifiers if below its rated resistance threshold. Update to my problem: It wasn’t an impedance mismatch at all. My car has an upgraded amplifier in it that is separate from the factory head unit (never heard of this before). With the aftermarket receiver installed, it was double amplifying the signal which explained the sensitive volume and hissing tweeters. Not sure what they did with the wiring but they did gently caress it up and I had to get a new wire harness that plugs into the pre-out of my receiver instead of using the actual speaker wires. It’s kind of a hacky solution because it breaks the fade and balance controls, but it works. The only way around it would be to rewire each speaker so that it bypasses the car’s internal amplifier. Maybe another day.
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Mar 10, 2019 03:10
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