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Alright. I'm gonna do it. I'm fixing this loving derelict Speed6 that has sat in my parents' driveway for going on three years now. Poor loving thing; I've just been afraid of whatever gremlins have taken up residence, and it's time to just bring out the flamethrower of my hands and tools. It's gonna need tires, a master cylinder (I'm pretty sure it's the mcyl and not the TOB/clutch fork rendering it immobile judging by the crystallized run of fluids leaking down the firewall), and an AccessPort because this UniChip thing is defunct as hell and no longer supported by its manufacturer.
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Feb 9, 2019 17:53
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RIP your wallet.
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Feb 9, 2019 19:45
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Rhyno posted:RIP your wallet. I managed to use community connections to source a harness from someone parting out, and he kindly tossed in a used mcyl for free. The AP CAN be lived without because the Unichip is “set up” for what it’s worth, but the tires...yeah. I’m hoping I find someone getting rid of a set of already-shoed Evo X stock wheels for cheap. These Konigs are bullshit e:  Yeah maybe this is why I had trouble shifting   Fuckin squirrels  I kept thinking maybe it'd just be easier to whip out the angle grinder but that seemed like a bad idea near the A/C piping and everything else  SQUIRRELS  Datsun makes a fine workbench with its 2 acres of hood; the 1JZ isn't popping over right now because I don't have a check valve anywhere in the fuel feed lines, but that's an easy fix now that I know what's up   Lookin' like I might need to “rebuild the turbo” at some point if we've got oil in the I/C piping
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Feb 10, 2019 |
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Feb 9, 2019 19:53
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loving AWESOME I got the car starting again, I'm jazzed. The wiring harness was quite an adventure. Definitely takes some gymnastics and a few days' labor and lifting to get everything, dash included, out of the way to disconnect and reconnect everything...      ...but with some perseverance, we got a full complement of dash lights again! Wow, look at that, 101,060 miles on a loving '06  While I had the harness out, I vacuumed out all the squirrel poop and chewed up acorns. The squirrel definitely made a bachelor pad out of the exhaust side of my engine.  BITTER ALE BREAK  Next day, I discovered that part of the reason that the car wouldn't start is because the starter interlock switch had broken long ago, and I guess the PO had wrapped some electrical tape around it to bypass it. I remember unhooking this at some point, and so I re-taped and reinstalled it best I could until I can get a new one on Monday. Apparently it's common for Mazdaspeed owners to bypass this using a paperclip because uhhhh thrust load on your crank or some poo poo means you want to disable one of your neutral safety switches, idfk but whatever, repairing this made the car start:  Old coolant came out with no oil in the mix, which I was really happy to see. I replaced it with probably 55/45 silicate/phosphate free PEAK long life and distilled water. The car additionally has gotten a fresh change of ~6.8qts of Pennzoil Platinum Fully synthetic 5W-30. It seems like everyone and their grandmother runs Rotella T6 in turbo cars (worked well in my old Subaru!), so I may switch to that at some point.  Three of the four tires held air after three years of sitting.  Fortunately the spare was completely mint, so I can use that to get this thing to Discount Tire or something and put some better poo poo on it than the mismatched crap it's had since I bought it from the jerks at the used lot. I aired everything up to 35PSI and put the donut on, so after the key/immobilizer issue is resolved, NEW SHOES!: When inspecting the thermostat, I found the power steering reservoir cap...  ...but...wait a sec, if this is the reservoir cap, then what the gently caress is covering my reservoir...?   holy poo poo someone lost the cap down on top of the thermostat and just put a loving PS Fluid bottle cap on top of it. SEND IT After I got all the oil and coolant changed, I bled the clutch: I have to say, I'm 99% convinced that the master cylinder failure in the post above was the major contributing factor to the car's parking. I have never seen so many loving bubbles and so much filth bleed out of a clutch line before. It was like carbonated pea soup for a solid 20-30 minutes of pedal pumping. I am blessed to have cool goon friends who enjoy this sort of poo poo and are happy to help out. To-Do list: (1) Thermostat. I purchased an OEM one, but forgot to change it while I had the coolant out of the car. Compared to everything else I've done, this is a piece of loving cake, so I'm not worried about it until tomorrow or maybe Monday. (2) Holy gently caress the brakes. Oh my sweet cartwheeling and cavorting goodness look at that poo poo. The rears are fine (albeit rusty) but the front rotors are loving *lipped.* I'm probably just going to order a front/rear kit off RockAuto at some point in the near future and just do all four corners. (3) lol gently caress me those tires. The Konig wheels are really not in great shape either, though do hold air, and have awkward double-bungs for tire pressure sensors this car doesn't, afaik, have. (4) Window regulators. I have all four of them, the driver window and the passenger rear window both have stripped gear teeth, so they don't really go down. (5) Get some remotes and keys made. This car ONLY came with the "spare" key; I hollered at the local Mazda dealership to get a quote...they not only don't stock the MS6 Card Fobs anymore, but it would also be around ~$450 for them to even look at this. I searched around and found the proper Amazon fob, and bonus, it's a flip key as well! I bought a two-pack so I can program my own keys and transponders in the future. I'll have to take these to get cut identically to my current key, but it'll be much cheaper to bring a mobile locksmith 'round to sync the transponders up this first time. https://www.amazon.com/Flip-Remote-Mazda-Miata-BGBX1T478SKE125-01/dp/B06Y2FCS8J?th=1 All in all, I'm glad I decided to spend this week getting this thing more towards roadworthy. I really missed it. It's such a beast of a car, and I'm even kind of excited to see if it blows up so I can just fix it all over again. It's pretty sensibly and accessibly designed where wrenching on it is concerned. Future plans: - AccessPort - FMIC - Turbo is probably fine, there wasn't a ton of shaft play, so my friend is likely correct about the PCV needing a change. - Evo X wheels. They look loving fantastic on these Speed6s and are the proper bolt pattern and offset. This car is not lowered, so I should be able to squeeze a little bit fatter rubber than 215/40/r18 on it no problem, which would fill out the wells nicely. Waffle House fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 03:23
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Hell of a lot of work there, hats off to you sir
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Feb 17, 2019 05:22
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Yeah that rules. Nice work!
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Feb 17, 2019 17:01
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Ok. The locksmith couldn’t help me, his equipment couldn’t communicate with the car’s keyless entry system. I plugged the Unichip back in after he left, on a whim, and the car starts fine now. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ It needs new gas and an actually charged battery. Let’s see what other comedy develops, shall we?
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Feb 18, 2019 03:00
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Any idea if these Ford strut mounts are a good replacement for the OEM version on a first gen MS3? http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f12/affordable-redesigned-top-hats-struts-mounts-bearings-202478/
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Feb 20, 2019 22:44
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Can't be worse than stock, mine were utter poo poo when I pulled my struts off and I'd have replaced them if I had the parts on hand.
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Feb 20, 2019 23:58
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Got serpentine belt replaced, shop hosed it up, already shredded, sounds like the motor is coming apart. Now I have to have it towed and can’t go back to work  Such a pain in the dick to find a good mechanic (in a major city, no less).
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Feb 24, 2019 19:56
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If I ever have children, especially if I have any daughters the first thing I'm teaching them after basic motor skills is how to talk mechanic.
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Feb 24, 2019 21:51
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I’m not sure if the implication is that I’m lacking there or? It’s no secret I’m no expert, but I can’t really see what point you’re trying to make. This is a chain so I don’t actually get to go out and talk to the mechanics. The shop I usually use is across town and difficult to get in, so I figured I’d try this (got my alignment done there). They’re taking care of it but still. Normally I talk to everyone that does any work for me so 
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Feb 24, 2019 22:55
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Finding a good shop is an enormous pain in the dick. Example: There's a shop in Austin called Soul Speed. Long ago, I used them to mount some tires on a set of wheels I bought. Then about a year or two ago, we took my GF's Genesis coupe there for an alignment. They're a performance shop, so there were several Cayman GT4s there, a Ferrari of some sort, etc. Point being, they work on expensive cars. They royally hosed up the alignment on the genesis, however, by failing to properly torque down some bit in the rear suspension. This resulted in a pretty scary/unstable ride and ruined a fairly new set of tires. They also screwed up a tire change on a friend's car when they failed to notify him when the tires arrived and then took their sweet time to get around to installing them.
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Feb 25, 2019 02:24
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I'm picky about alignment and it's frustrating. I got the other car back from the dealer with the steering wheel about 5 degrees off center. Most places are pretty bad at doing alignments, it seems like.
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Feb 25, 2019 02:38
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Just loving lol that you can jumper the CIRCUIT relay it'll spit the fuel tank's contents out the low pressure fuel line I recovered almost the entire tank this way before it slowed to a trickle and then stopped. There's a little gas left in the bottom, but...  ...it doesn't look too gross after three years of sitting! It still smelled, wafted, and fumed like Premium, and there wasn't really a varnish odor or anything. I still may pull the pump and figure out how to drain the last gallon or two, just in case it separated. The gauge registered a small amount remaining.  On that note, the rear seats are incredibly easy to remove. The locking lids for tank access however require a janky special tool, which there is not much clearance for at all. This poo poo is as easy to work on as my 2.5RS was, and that thing was made of LEGO  Was this one the boost gauge tee...?  Or this one, maybe...? Golly, I sure love vacuum and boost leaks.  
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Feb 25, 2019 |
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Feb 25, 2019 03:07
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You can make a fuel tank lock ring tool from a piece of flat stock with a bfh and grinder. Or lisle sells one that works. 
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Feb 25, 2019 03:17
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Elmnt80 posted:You can make a fuel tank lock ring tool from a piece of flat stock with a bfh and grinder. Or lisle sells one that works. I might borrow it from AutoZone: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-fuel-pump-replacement-kit/oem-fuel-pump-replacement-kit/605758_0_0 ...but do you have a Lisle P/N? Or is it not Mazda-specific?
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Feb 25, 2019 03:24
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Lisle 63000. Its a universal tool for those style lock rings. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool
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Feb 25, 2019 03:28
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Elmnt80 posted:Lisle 63000. Its a universal tool for those style lock rings. Wow, I wish I had had or known about a tool like that when I replaced the fuel tank on my 240sx.
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Feb 25, 2019 03:31
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Elmnt80 posted:Lisle 63000. Its a universal tool for those style lock rings. Praise the gods of fuel, tiresmoke, and fire
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Feb 25, 2019 03:44
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Notice some clunking while starting the car, did I kill a motor mount? Wouldn't be surprised, there was one night of slush driving that was really hard on the drive train. Still feels okay but I'm just driving around town.
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Feb 26, 2019 06:34
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Have any of y'all with 1st gen Speed3s replaced any of the Bose speakers? I think one of mine has blown out, but I haven't located which one it is. The front passenger door speaker blew out when the car was still under warranty back around 2010-2011, but recently I'm hearing the same telltale garbage noise with more bass-y music. I need to double check that it isn't something stupid like my windshield visor in the back seat resonating against one of the speakers, of course. I remember reading that Bose tended to use a lower or different input impedance speaker than what's usually off the shelf. Would it be hard, or particularly expensive to locate an OEM replacement if it's one of the door speakers (or I think there's a subwoofer under the passenger seat)?
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Feb 27, 2019 06:42
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Charles posted:Notice some clunking while starting the car, did I kill a motor mount? Wouldn't be surprised, there was one night of slush driving that was really hard on the drive train. Still feels okay but I'm just driving around town. You can tell by harmonics of being in gear or neutral. If you're in drive and have the brake on at a light and hefty vibration then it goes away when you hit the gas: it's a motor mount. You can also check this by putting a jack under the car with a block of wood and inching the motor up while it's running. If you see less vibration and noise it's because you're lessening strain on a mount. Ama about having 2 busted mounts in my Galant at any given time.
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Feb 27, 2019 06:54
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MetaJew posted:Have any of y'all with 1st gen Speed3s replaced any of the Bose speakers? I think one of mine has blown out, but I haven't located which one it is. The front passenger door speaker blew out when the car was still under warranty back around 2010-2011, but recently I'm hearing the same telltale garbage noise with more bass-y music. I need to double check that it isn't something stupid like my windshield visor in the back seat resonating against one of the speakers, of course. I believe they're 2 ohm versus standard 4 ohm. Crutchfield has one brand X speaker that fits :/ I think the factory part is BR8W66960A, might want to verify that. Looks like it's about $140 online.
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Feb 27, 2019 07:00
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Charles posted:I believe they're 2 ohm versus standard 4 ohm. Crutchfield has one brand X speaker that fits :/ Thanks for locating the part number!
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Feb 27, 2019 07:38
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MetaJew posted:Thanks for locating the part number! I'm not 100% sure, be sure to double check. Also there is a car audio thread here in AI that probably has more ideas.
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Feb 27, 2019 10:26
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Charles posted:I'm not 100% sure, be sure to double check. Also there is a car audio thread here in AI that probably has more ideas. I looked up the part number on one of the Mazda part websites. It did pull it the Bose door speakers. However, the same diagram didn't show the subwoofer under the passenger seat, so I'm not sure where to find that one. I'll probably check into the car audio thread later. I need to address my work out suspension first.
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Feb 27, 2019 16:27
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My Gen2 Speed3 was idling strangely yesterday with some additional vibration that seemed to "move" towards the back passenger side of the car. It went away once the car was warmed up, and hasn't come back since but I was wondering if this was anything to worry about.
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Mar 1, 2019 00:51
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No idea on that one. Maybe something crawled into the exhaust?
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Mar 1, 2019 02:31
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Sorry for asking the same questions over and over, but are Koni FSDs still recommended or do you guys have any other opinions about replacing the shocks/struts? Edge Auto also has some Koni STR.T and various Bilsteins. I'm not looking to lower the car, and might do one or two autoXes here and there but I'm not looking for trackday-bro suspension.
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Mar 1, 2019 21:42
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Bilstein availability is still iffy. I've got front B8s available but the rears are "not in stock at mfg," same with b12 prokits (which are just the B8 with eibach springs) and the pss/pss9. Given they do have the fronts I'd expect not too long a wait for rears, stock has been getting much better over the last couple of months. But konis are a bit cheaper and you can get them right now and they're good.
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Mar 1, 2019 23:18
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Looking on tirerack, Koni has some other shock they call the "Special Active Shock/Strut" that mentions FSD in the product description. I can't tell if this is a redesign/updated version of the gold FSDs or something else. Edit: Looks like the SAS is the next gen or updated version of the FSDs. Neat. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 23:27
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  90K in the 2011 Mazda3. What is involved in the 100K service and what should I be paying attention to other than cleaning my gauge lenses. Clutch doesn't seem to fully engage until the very very last bit of pedal travel but seems to start to (very slightly) engage a little more than halfway up and still isn't slipping so I'm not sure if I should be worried there. There's a bunch of anecdotes on the internet about premature clutch wear in this generation of 3 but I'm not sure if it's a real issue or user error. Previa_fun fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Mar 2, 2019 |
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Mar 2, 2019 03:56
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edit: nm pretty sure it's the battery, only 2.5 years old too
OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Mar 3, 2019 |
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Mar 2, 2019 23:18
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DEAR AI DIARY, Did the plugs and thermostat on the Speed6 today. The ones I removed were OEM, I replaced them with NGKs. Cylinder #1's plug was a little spicy, and I mean hosed.     Oh that's so much better. One of the coilpack bolts has been uhhh replaced at some point. I'll go hit up a junkyard and see if I can find a clean one; this works for now, but I lol every time I find something SENT on this car.  Having funsized hands owns  The thermostat was in okay shape, but I was having some problems with it sticking in cold weather when I first bought the car. Seems reasonable to change it at 100k. I elected to go with OEM; by the part number it looks like they had a revision.  I think I may want to replace the belt tensioner at some point what with that chunk bitten out of the lip.  
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Mar 4, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 01:47
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Decided that it was time for my 03 Jetta to go so I got a 2018 CX-5 Grand Touring. Bought it from a dealership and it already had 26k miles on it, so I was wondering what sort of maintenance I'm looking at in the near future.
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Mar 6, 2019 04:38
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ReapersTouch posted:Decided that it was time for my 03 Jetta to go so I got a 2018 CX-5 Grand Touring. Bought it from a dealership and it already had 26k miles on it, so I was wondering what sort of maintenance I'm looking at in the near future. Oil changes and tire rotations. Engine and cabin air filters might be worth a look, but the dealership may have done those. That’s still a new car. You should have another 30k before you start thinking about struts and brakes. Just put gas in it and enjoy.
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Mar 6, 2019 12:48
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If you live somewhere they salt the roads, do a brake service once a year, your wallet will thank you.
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Mar 6, 2019 13:50
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eddiewalker posted:Oil changes and tire rotations. Engine and cabin air filters might be worth a look, but the dealership may have done those. Wibla posted:If you live somewhere they salt the roads, do a brake service once a year, your wallet will thank you. Thanks! It's my first Mazda I've ever owned and I love it so far.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:16
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Charles posted:Notice some clunking while starting the car, did I kill a motor mount? Wouldn't be surprised, there was one night of slush driving that was really hard on the drive train. Still feels okay but I'm just driving around town. I'm having to change all the mounts in both my (not Mazda) <10 year old cars. My lessons learned is that it can be very hard to visually inspect a bad mount, and after taking of one of the two side mounts it was floppy as all hell. When putting in the new one I basically had to raise the whole engine by 5-8cm. As I had no reference it was hard to tell. Didn't have massive amounts of vibration, but I had the typical clunks when lifting off the gas pedal. I could also provoke it by rapidly put on/lift of. Also a bit of clunking sometimes when starting.
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Mar 6, 2019 19:21
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