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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:If anyone wants to look into deadlifting to supplement climbing, and has had trouble with form in the past, I can't recommend this video enough. I consider it to be the gold standard for anyone who has trouble understanding proper deadlift form. Friends of mine have struggled for months, lifting unsafely, and this vid straight-up fixes them. Yeah, one of the things I've noticed about some people who have trouble deadlifting is that they're looking at a picture of someone in the 'correct deadlift starting stance' and trying to fit their own particular limb/torso proportions into the same stance, which often ruins the mechanics of the lift. The method in this video works really well.
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Feb 28, 2019 16:21
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We got a break in a rainy streak in Nashville this week so I got to climb outside. Myself and one other person took someone outside for their first time climbing on real rock. He ended up leading halfway through the day and did fantastic with some coaching. His stoke was contagious and we all had a blast even though the wall was seeping and we had to be picky about what we got on. We all have the same three day a week schedule so hoping to get out outside once every other week or so. Get excited folks, send season is coming. Take advantage of any and all programs your gym offers. I hated the idea of taking classes at the gym, as a husky dude gym class was never my thing. I started yoga two years ago and now I'm addicted. I don't like all the types or all the instructors but the ones I do have really helped me gain flexibility and balance which has translated into making certain moves on the wall a piece of cake. One of my gym friends started going to a kettle bell strength class and convinced me to go. I was honest with the instructor and told him I had no idea what I was doing and he spend extra time with me working on form with low weight. Turns out no one gives a poo poo if you are lifting a 10 pounder or a 50 pounder as long as you put it away when you are done. Its not a competition, its a journey.
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Feb 28, 2019 16:57
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gamera009 posted:I’m in Boulder, so not likely. Once Denver Spot opens I’ll be there on lunch breaks. I work basically across the street, so let’s figure out some lunch bouldering when it happens. I’m going to stay at DBC, but I’ll pick up punches for nu-Spot though.
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Feb 28, 2019 17:37
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Partial Octopus posted:So I've been back climbing again for about 2 months now. I was going about every other day for around 3 weeks. Now that I'm back up to V4s I'm starting to get some mild to moderate finger pain when I stop climbing. How concerned should I be? Should I just cut back to 3 days a week or should I consider taking some time off? Warm up properly. Stretch out all your fingers gently before and after each sesh. Your fingers will ache some because you're building muscle/tendon strength but they shouldn't hurt. If you've only been climbing for 2 months and you're climbing V4 in the gym you're a pretty strong person and you're likely using your arms way, way, way more than necessary. Stop trying to push yourself to bigger numbers and try to climb V2's and V3's super smoothly. Figure out how to make each one completely static with as little effort as possible. Or start climbing longer routes on a rope.
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Feb 28, 2019 19:47
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Bud Manstrong posted:I work basically across the street, so let’s figure out some lunch bouldering when it happens. I’m going to stay at DBC, but I’ll pick up punches for nu-Spot though. Mos def. if everything goes well, we’ll be one of the beer sponsors. I’ll make sure we get a hop-free beer in there for you. Gotchu fam. 👊💯🔥
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Mar 1, 2019 04:36
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Any goon climbers in Illinois/Wisconsin? I’m looking to hit up Devil’s Lake pretty regularly this year, and wanted to know if some folks could use a climbing partner.
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Mar 1, 2019 05:43
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Baronash posted:Any goon climbers in Illinois/Wisconsin? I’m looking to hit up Devil’s Lake pretty regularly this year, and wanted to know if some folks could use a climbing partner. I'm in the Milwaukee area! I just started climbing a few months ago, but really want to get outdoors and give that a shot, if anything i can get some belay practice in.
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Mar 1, 2019 17:09
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Yo s/o to one @hauki for absolutely killing it tonight at the gym. Definitely seeing some progress. I sent my longest and hardest 10a tonight, made me feel decent. Then failed on everything else because my endurance is trash.
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Mar 2, 2019 03:27
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I am looking forward to my trash, haven't climbed in 5 months, endurance.
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Mar 2, 2019 03:53
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I was climbing at the gym today when some guy fell from the top of the problem next to the one I was working on and broke his ankle. Had to be taken to the ER. Climb safe, goons.
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Mar 2, 2019 05:17
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First time leading outside since a week before I tore my ACL, a little more than a year ago. Nothing like going from zero to trad at Garden of the Gods in a nanosecond. It was cold as gently caress today, too.
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Mar 2, 2019 05:24
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remote control carnivore posted:First time leading outside since a week before I tore my ACL, a little more than a year ago. Nothing like going from zero to trad at Garden of the Gods in a nanosecond. It was cold as gently caress today, too. That place is loving gorgeous.
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Mar 2, 2019 05:26
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ShaneB posted:That place is loving gorgeous. And full of terrors!
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Mar 2, 2019 05:45
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Baronash posted:Any goon climbers in Illinois/Wisconsin? I’m looking to hit up Devil’s Lake pretty regularly this year, and wanted to know if some folks could use a climbing partner. I'm in Chicago.
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Mar 2, 2019 06:53
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Any Sac or Bay Area goons know the top climbing spots around? I've been to "turtle rock" and the Ring Mountain area, also an underwhelming bouldering spot in Vacaville, but I'm not an expert as I usually go the mountainsenraged_camel posted:I was climbing at the gym today when some guy fell from the top of the problem next to the one I was working on and broke his ankle. Had to be taken to the ER. Honestly baffled how an injury like that happens at the gym. Were they not roped in properly or was it a fall on the boulder wall, etc?
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Mar 2, 2019 07:54
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I’ve seen two people at the gym hit the deck from 25+ feet lead climbing, and a guy snap his ankle on a very low dunk
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Mar 2, 2019 13:12
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A friend of mine broke his ankle falling less than two feet. If you land badly it doesn't really matter how far you fall.
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Mar 2, 2019 13:46
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:
Grigri abuse.
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Mar 2, 2019 14:59
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Honestly baffled how an injury like that happens at the gym. Were they not roped in properly or was it a fall on the boulder wall, etc? "Problem", so probably boulder wall. Bad landings are the worst, I've seen a girl compound fracture her shin bone or whatever it's called at our gym. 
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Mar 2, 2019 16:57
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Any Sac or Bay Area goons know the top climbing spots around? I've been to "turtle rock" and the Ring Mountain area, also an underwhelming bouldering spot in Vacaville, but I'm not an expert as I usually go the mountains Castle Rock in Los Gatos, Indian Rock / Mortar Rock / Great Stoneface in Berkeley, or go out to Tahoe. Best rope climbing is Gold Wall / Table Mountain, unless you want to go out to Tahoe.
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Mar 2, 2019 17:40
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ive had so many insane/bad landings (all bouldering, so like 5-20 feet) without injury i feel like im due to just shatter into a million pieces falling 3 inches from an overhang i no longer remember how many times ive landed on my stomach and had the wind knocked out of me
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Mar 3, 2019 01:28
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interrodactyl posted:Best rope climbing is Gold Wall which is apparently private property and climbing websites advise to "be quiet" out there lol this reminds me of the documentary Valley Uprising, about the rebellious origins of this sport
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Mar 3, 2019 06:11
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:which is apparently private property and climbing websites advise to "be quiet" out there lol Yeah, the real answer is to go out to Yosemite, Bishop, or JTree. They're all close enough for weekend trips!
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Mar 3, 2019 17:48
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Baronash posted:Any goon climbers in Illinois/Wisconsin? I’m looking to hit up Devil’s Lake pretty regularly this year, and wanted to know if some folks could use a climbing partner. I try and get up there a couple times a year to see family. I'm heading up there the first week of April, I'l have gear with me but not optimistic the weather will be nice enough to use it.
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Mar 3, 2019 23:34
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Alright goons, I'm going to be in Denver for some shenanigans and it's time to ask if y'all think ElDo is going to be decent for bouldering. If not, any other promising locations? And any particularly fun problems up to ~V7?
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Mar 6, 2019 00:04
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interrodactyl posted:Alright goons, I'm going to be in Denver for some shenanigans and it's time to ask if y'all think ElDo is going to be decent for bouldering. If not, any other promising locations? And any particularly fun problems up to ~V7? When? It snowed 4-8" this past weekend.
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Mar 6, 2019 00:25
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spwrozek posted:When? It snowed 4-8" this past weekend. interrodactyl posted:Alright goons, I'm going to be in Denver for some shenanigans and it's time to ask if y'all think ElDo is going to be decent for bouldering. If not, any other promising locations? And any particularly fun problems up to ~V7? Depends on the boulder. The water rock and the hogsback are in the sun constantly, so not too bad in that front. Spwrozek is right that it snowed recently, but if temps stay around 40, it’s probably fine. Certain bits of Flagstaff might also be fine.
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Mar 6, 2019 02:58
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interrodactyl posted:Alright goons, I'm going to be in Denver for some shenanigans and it's time to ask if y'all think ElDo is going to be decent for bouldering. If not, any other promising locations? And any particularly fun problems up to ~V7? If you wanna guest pass at the Englewood earth Treks get at me.
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Mar 6, 2019 03:00
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spwrozek posted:When? It snowed 4-8" this past weekend. ShaneB posted:If you wanna guest pass at the Englewood earth Treks get at me. gamera009 posted:Depends on the boulder. The water rock and the hogsback are in the sun constantly, so not too bad in that front. Spwrozek is right that it snowed recently, but if temps stay around 40, it’s probably fine. Certain bits of Flagstaff might also be fine. 3/20. And yeah the backup plan is to check out a gym, so thanks for the offer. I'll see how it is as the date gets closer, and if anyone wants to come through, the more the merrier.
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Mar 6, 2019 16:48
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interrodactyl posted:3/20. And yeah the backup plan is to check out a gym, so thanks for the offer. I'll see how it is as the date gets closer, and if anyone wants to come through, the more the merrier. I'll actually be gone starting 3/19 evening... Sorry!
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Mar 6, 2019 16:57
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interrodactyl posted:3/20. And yeah the backup plan is to check out a gym, so thanks for the offer. I'll see how it is as the date gets closer, and if anyone wants to come through, the more the merrier. I think I get back into town the 20th, but I’d only be free for gym evenings during the week. On another note, anything I should know about shelf road?
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Mar 6, 2019 17:52
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Just chiming in to say I love the beta chat. Might be worthwhile to set some framework around a couple pics/angles so the thread has a better idea of what's going on. The video doesn't do the action total justice. I'll see if I can add some attempts of my own. gently caress knows I need some improvement.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:11
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Gotta get over the fear of destroying my knee on harder heel hook pulls...
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Mar 6, 2019 18:22
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Hauki posted:I think I get back into town the 20th, but I’d only be free for gym evenings during the week. Sharp rock, warm in the sun, cold in the shade, short ish routes. 2 new guide books, one sucks, one is ok. It gets really fun in the 10 range. What routes are you looking at?
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Mar 6, 2019 18:30
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Hot Diggity! posted:Gotta get over the fear of destroying my knee on harder heel hook pulls... Counterpoint - that fear CAN be a good thing. I've hosed up both of my knees from heel hooking too hard without enough warming up. Should you be so afraid that you never heel hook at all? Of course not. But don't confuse fear with listening to your body, either. Knees are delicate!
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Mar 6, 2019 18:31
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spwrozek posted:Sharp rock, warm in the sun, cold in the shade, short ish routes. 2 new guide books, one sucks, one is ok. It gets really fun in the 10 range. No idea frankly, going with someone/people substantially more experienced than me and I hope I’m not dragging them down, haha. I’ve still only done a few gym 10cs, so whatever that translates to outdoors.
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Mar 6, 2019 18:43
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interrodactyl posted:3/20. And yeah the backup plan is to check out a gym, so thanks for the offer. I'll see how it is as the date gets closer, and if anyone wants to come through, the more the merrier. Should be fine then. If you hit up Boulder, drop a line. I can get you into the spot gym for free, but I’ll be gone during the weekend (fishing in bend).
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Mar 6, 2019 19:17
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So my friend and I have a lot of experience top roping and lead climbing in the gym but we've never done outdoor climbing. We looked up some beginner outdoor climbs in our area and found some top rope spots. Is it a terrible idea for us to go and top rope outdoors with only gym experience? I looked up instructions on how to tie into an anchor. It seems pretty simple. Mostly just posting here as a sanity check before I go and get us killed by missing something stupid. I was planning on using this technique that I found assuming the anchor at the top is similar. https://www.climbing.com/skills/bolted-toprope-anchors/ I would of course practice tying the knot at home or at the gym. I have no experience repelling, so I would hike back down around to the beginning of the climb after setting up the rope. Please tell me if I'm being dumb.
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Mar 6, 2019 20:14
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You could probably ask your gym staff to give you some advice before you go out. Try and go with a group first and learn from them as well.
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Mar 6, 2019 20:24
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Partial Octopus posted:So my friend and I have a lot of experience top roping and lead climbing in the gym but we've never done outdoor climbing. We looked up some beginner outdoor climbs in our area and found some top rope spots. ehhhhh
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Mar 6, 2019 20:25
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