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Molentik posted:Thanks! I wasn't satisfied with it so I started over, getting a much nicer result this time. I had to do a bunch of similar work on one of the last architectural models I worked on, using a static grass kind of material. That stuff was a nightmare to work with and caused me no end of frustration so I appreciate how time consuming this work is.
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Mar 2, 2019 11:47
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Does anyone have any good tips on how to move a decent amount of completed models safely? I bought a house recently and need to get my completed kits there without too much repair work afterwards. This also includes the 1:72 Italeri C-130 Hercules I built a while back, as well as a few other bigger plane kits. I managed to get most of the 1:144 stuff safely there in a big shopping bag and will only have to deal with a few missiles, bombs and other tiny bits that came off, but they're all in the bag so I just need to glue them back on.
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Mar 2, 2019 11:55
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Sealed plastic container filled with beanbag stuffing or cotton wool balls? Anything that might come off should stay in the box. Theoretically.Kurvi Tasch posted:Finally finished the Ki-61 That's a nice ki-61. Airfix kit? Update on the bf109: The difference between this and the academy kit is already obvious. Even with my newly gained experience, this one is going together much more quickly. The engineering of the kit is just flat out better. The details are better. The cockpit is better. The fit is nearly perfect. The academy kit felt like a series of parts that could be put together into something that looks kind of like a plane. This Tamiya kit so far is like they started with a completed model, and then cut it up into pieces and put it on the sprue. I'm not building it so much as returning it to the way it wants to be. Very cool. Carth Dookie fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Mar 2, 2019 |
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Mar 2, 2019 12:24
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Smoke posted:Does anyone have any good tips on how to move a decent amount of completed models safely? I bought a house recently and need to get my completed kits there without too much repair work afterwards. This also includes the 1:72 Italeri C-130 Hercules I built a while back, as well as a few other bigger plane kits. In a previous job, I had to deal with the logistics of moving a bunch of builder’s model of cargo ships from a bunch of places to an event at a hotel and back. They’re mounted solidly to their display cases, so two of the owners just sent people down with vans or SUVs with the models in the back, well secured, and that was good, The other guys were farther out so they built a crate around the display cases and shipped them Purolator. One model had some minor damage (one leg of the model stand fell off), but I did a bit of surgery before the event and no one was the wiser. The quality of shipyard models is... uneven, by the way. It’s been my anecdotal experience that the better the display model, the longer lasting the ship is.
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Mar 2, 2019 13:04
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Carth Dookie posted:That's a nice ki-61. Airfix kit? Tamiya. This one: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-60789-kawasaki-ki-61-id-hien-tony--1117318
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Mar 2, 2019 13:39
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FrozenVent posted:The quality of shipyard models is... uneven, by the way. It’s been my anecdotal experience that the better the display model, the longer lasting the ship is. This sounds like the foundation of a modern superstition that you can really turn into something. Or some Dorian Gray thing. 
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Mar 2, 2019 16:50
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Nah it’s pure economics - cheap rear end shipyards turn out cheap rear end ships and skimp on the models too. Kind of like how if you walk down to bottom of a ship’s engine room and your hands are still clean, you probably don’t need to inspect much, because if they’re keeping the handrails clean they’ve already got everything else clean.
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Mar 2, 2019 16:56
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FrozenVent posted:Nah it’s pure economics - cheap rear end shipyards turn out cheap rear end ships and skimp on the models too. Cmon man I just want a horror movie where the bad guy does some voodoo doll stuff to a vlcc model while the crew has to deal with the invisible saboteur in the middle of the ocean.
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Mar 2, 2019 17:03
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FrozenVent posted:Nah it’s pure economics - cheap rear end shipyards turn out cheap rear end ships and skimp on the models too. It's kind of a "bowl full of brown M&Ms" if you know that story
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Mar 2, 2019 17:48
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This box art is extremely cool. Are these kits available to buy as like, dead stock? I presume they must be Soviet.
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Mar 2, 2019 18:51
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Scut posted:This box art is extremely cool. Are these kits available to buy as like, dead stock? I presume they must be Soviet.
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Mar 2, 2019 19:04
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Nebakenezzer posted:It's kind of a "bowl full of brown M&Ms" if you know that story Yeah but by the time you get the model, chances are you’re already pretty committed to the yard. Gonna offer my service to shipowners, travelling across the world checking out builder’s model a yard’s put out before they order ships.
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Mar 2, 2019 19:18
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Two more 15mm tanks, both American this time: a Lee and a Stuart, both from Battlefront miniatures.
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Mar 2, 2019 19:58
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Smoke posted:Does anyone have any good tips on how to move a decent amount of completed models safely? I bought a house recently and need to get my completed kits there without too much repair work afterwards. This also includes the 1:72 Italeri C-130 Hercules I built a while back, as well as a few other bigger plane kits. I'm guessing you just want a one-time transportation method, and it sounds like you're moving them by yourself? I'd wrap anything that's not too delicate in packing cushion foam and just put them in a box with some extra padding so they don't rattle around too much and also don't get crushed by other items. For something really delicate, you could get some foam like they use in furniture cushions and cut out holes to put your stuff in. For stuff you plan to move around a lot, there are plenty of pre-made storage things with foam trays to put your stuff in, but that's mainly useful for wargamers and model railroaders who want to bring their stuff to clubs/conventions/etc.
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Mar 2, 2019 19:58
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Arquinsiel posted:Yeah, if we were to crapkit this then we'd need to know what they are. I had a look on scalemates: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/krugozor-204-hawker-hunter-fga9--162451 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/krugozor-256-westland-lynx--162475 The exact kits appear to not be available any more. Nevertheless, if scalemates is to be trusted, reboxes of these exist and are still listed in European stores.
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Mar 2, 2019 20:09
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Turns out that model trains have some muscle behind them. https://twitter.com/MrTimDunn/status/1101414657418498049
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Mar 2, 2019 20:44
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FrozenVent posted:The quality of shipyard models is... uneven, by the way. It’s been my anecdotal experience that the better the display model, the longer lasting the ship is. Architectural models are very much the same. I've done repair work on someone else's models with my old boss and even as someone new to that particular field I could tell that poo poo wasn't right. And I think that people can pick up on it too. Even though a model might look good from a few feet away, people always want to get closer and will. The sins will be uncovered.
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Mar 2, 2019 20:57
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What's the actual general ballpark scale for "15mm" ?
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Mar 2, 2019 20:57
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Baronjutter posted:What's the actual general ballpark scale for "15mm" ? 1:100 edit: Once source I looked up had 15mm as 1:120 and 18mm as 1:100 Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Mar 2, 2019 |
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Mar 2, 2019 21:13
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'm guessing you just want a one-time transportation method, and it sounds like you're moving them by yourself? I'd wrap anything that's not too delicate in packing cushion foam and just put them in a box with some extra padding so they don't rattle around too much and also don't get crushed by other items. For something really delicate, you could get some foam like they use in furniture cushions and cut out holes to put your stuff in. Yep, it's just a one-time thing. I'll see if I can find those sheets around here, but it might be a bit more difficult finding a box that fits the Hercules. Worst-case scenario it's just gonna go on the backseat of the car. The kits are gonna get their own box(es) though, not gonna put any other things in there. Kurvi Tasch posted:I had a look on scalemates: I've seen that Lynx around in its MisterCraft version here locally, I'll have to pick one up to see how bad it is. The one good thing about MisterCraft kits is that they're cheap.
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Mar 2, 2019 21:32
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Smoke posted:
Those are the old Frog moulds from the 60s - 70s. They were pretty good in their day but the moulds got sold to eastern europe decades ago and they've been in use seemingly ever since by about a billion different companies. They're probably a bit bad by this stage.
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Mar 2, 2019 22:50
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Kurvi Tasch posted:Finally finished the Ki-61 Nice job! I've had my eye on one of these Ki-61 kits for a while. I have a 1/72 A6M3 in the stash, and I've been thinking about getting a photo etch set for it, but I'm not sure its really worth it on these newer Tamiya kits. I think I'd rather just use the money on a set of IJN/IJA seatbelts, since I hate the Tamiya decal ones. You'll definitely feel that you've started to improve once you complete another kit and can actually compare them side by side. There's always something that could have been done better in this hobby, part of it is just not letting it get you down and remembering to try something new on the next build. Carth Dookie posted:I've seen that razorback. Nice job and thanks for the tip. Thanks! I really like the way your metal finish turned out. I've been avoiding trying a metal finish for a while now, though I should probably give it a shot soon. Hopefully that masking technique works well for you.
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Mar 3, 2019 02:42
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Hand-painting N scale concrete track is a hell-nightmare.
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Mar 3, 2019 03:09
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I was just thinking "huh, N-Scale may be a way to get into model trains even with limited space" Thank you for the reminder that if half the size means TWICE AS SMALL every day I resist is another day before I turn into an old man
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Mar 3, 2019 04:13
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N scale is really good, there's only a few disadvantages vs HO that I think are more than countered by its space savings. I just like the look of the scale better too, I find it easier to work with because the smaller scale often means a lower expected level of detail since you're more zoomed-out. Like you can easily get away with just fake print-outs of building interiors behind windows rather than actually building real interiors because at the scale you just don't notice. Lots of little things like that that end up making it easier.
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Mar 3, 2019 04:29
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Today, I did some yellow There’s eight more sprues of these loving things.
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Mar 3, 2019 04:55
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Kurvi Tasch posted:I had a look on scalemates:
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Mar 3, 2019 05:27
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This kits really starting to look like a race car now. I've got the windows ready to go in but I want to get the detail painting on the body and the inside of the body shell painted up before I put it together.  
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Mar 3, 2019 05:59
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Unkempt posted:Those are the old Frog moulds from the 60s - 70s. They were pretty good in their day but the moulds got sold to eastern europe decades ago and they've been in use seemingly ever since by about a billion different companies. They're probably a bit bad by this stage. Oh, I am not expecting anything near good from MisterCraft, the two kits I already made from them took care of that. I learned not to expect all the parts or decals shown in the instructions to even exist in their kits, parts fitting together is a happy coincidence, guiding pins are optional, needing to cut, sand and afterwards fill the seams on almost every single part is a requirement, and any form of "new" detailing in the molds was done by someone who still had the shakes from last night's bingefest. I just have an almost masochistic interest in crappy/cheap kits from time to time, as I won't have to feel too bad for screwing up with them. The expensive stuff is what gets me nervous and perfectionist. Chances are these kits aren't even from the original moulds (Which would be very degraded by now) but a copy of a copy of a copy that's lost a lot of definition in the process, or they might even be reverse-engineered from an existing kit. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen them use something that might have dubious origins.
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Mar 3, 2019 13:16
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Experimental ballasting to see if the ballast and glue will be strong enough to hold down my "puffy" turnouts that aren't quite sitting flat.
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Mar 3, 2019 22:28
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:This kits really starting to look like a race car now. I've got the windows ready to go in but I want to get the detail painting on the body and the inside of the body shell painted up before I put it together. Nice, dude. Looks great. I really need to pick up another Tamiya kit. After doing 3 in a row (2 racecars and a bike), the last couple Revell models have tried my patience.
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Mar 3, 2019 22:39
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Today, I did some blue.
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Mar 4, 2019 00:58
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Nice, dude. Looks great. I really need to pick up another Tamiya kit. After doing 3 in a row (2 racecars and a bike), the last couple Revell models have tried my patience. Thanks man I appreciate the compliments. I did a pair of hasegawa kits after doing 3 tamiya kits and while they weren’t bad to put together they just aren’t the same as a tamiya kit. The next kit I’m going to pick up will be a Japanese gtc car that I built previously but then destroyed the decals on because I did it before I knew about decal solutions. I’m jumping on it now cause there only appears to be 2 of them left on eBay and one vendor isn’t asking dumb money for the kit.
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Mar 4, 2019 08:14
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Baronjutter posted:What's the actual general ballpark scale for "15mm" ? Jonny Nox posted:1:100 I keep this handy link bookmarked
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Mar 4, 2019 12:39
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I finished my first model completed with airbrush recently and I'm quite happy with how he turned out: He is Wade A. Minut from the Weird-Ohs line by Hawk - these kits have been re-issued a few times now under different names. The cool part about the latest iteration is that they seem to include enough pieces to make the character twice over. I thought I got lucky, but a friend with the same kit also has duplicates. In keeping with his 60's origin and the JDM decor of my office I made him a vintage Honda flag in Photoshop. Carth Dookie posted:Just the one sprue! I'm expecting the build to be straightforward. The main goal of this build is to practice doing camoflauge painting. I'm intending to do the scheme pictured on the front of the box. A slight twist, in that I'll be using Vallejo paints for the Camo scheme (except the yellow) instead of Tamiya, because the Camo colours are all in their spray cans only, and I refuse to buy into them. I've tried to colour match as best I can, but only time will tell how it goes. Since this kit comes with a stand, I'm going to try building it "in flight" with the gear up. Looking forward to it! How has your experience been with the 'Model Color' vs. the 'Model Air'? I have only sprayed with the MC once and it was awfully thick so I have been shying away from it but as you said it is cheap and widely available near me so I'd like to work with it. Gay Weed Dad fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 4, 2019 21:43
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I've never used the model air, but as you said, the model colour is thicker and stickier than Tamiya. I haven't used it yet in this project sol I'll let you know. The difference is now I have a proper cleaning pot and Vallejo airbrush cleaner so it should be easier this time.
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Mar 4, 2019 22:19
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Carth Dookie posted:I've never used the model air, but as you said, the model colour is thicker and stickier than Tamiya. I haven't used it yet in this project sol I'll let you know. The difference is now I have a proper cleaning pot and Vallejo airbrush cleaner so it should be easier this time. Ah, by the rights the AC is designed for airbrush whereas MC is for brush painting so this might explain your cleanup issues.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:20
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Gay Weed Dad posted:Ah, by the rights the AC is designed for airbrush whereas MC is for brush painting so this might explain your cleanup issues. Maybe. From what I've heard, model air is just model colour that's been pre-thinned. If so, I wouldn't expect it to make a difference.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:32
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Making decent progress on the SPAD. Just finished painting the tape used on the struts.  Reference:  I thought I could just mask and airbrush these at first, but it proved to be way too fiddly. I ended up just freehanding the tapes after lining them up against a straight edge for reference and alignment. Struts are the worst part of 1/72 models. If I ever get another WWI kit in this scale, I'm just gonna make the things out of brass and styrene sheets. Next step will be to fit and align the cabane struts while test fitting the top wing.
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Mar 5, 2019 05:25
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Smol Spad. 
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Mar 5, 2019 05:36
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