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Partial Octopus posted:So my friend and I have a lot of experience top roping and lead climbing in the gym but we've never done outdoor climbing. We looked up some beginner outdoor climbs in our area and found some top rope spots. It's definitely best to have someone with experience sanity check what you are doing to start. That said, setting up a safe system on bolted toprope anchors is the easiest of the possible scenarios you might encounter, and the setup shown in that link is safe if done right. There are some things to consider though that aren't discussed there (this is just what comes to mind immediately): - Assessing the condition of the bolts themselves - Proper extension of the anchor with respect to the cliff edge If the area is relatively popular, you may find that other climbers there are happy to sanity check your setup. Or if you're in an area near someone here, I suspect one of us would get check stuff out for you.
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Mar 6, 2019 20:33
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Thanks for the feedback anyone. I think I'll definitely find someone more experienced to tag along. If anyone here lives in Philly and wants to climb shoot me a PM!
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Mar 6, 2019 20:42
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Hey Denver folks- I might head that way in early May for some climbing with a coworker. He climbs in the 5.10s and I'm in the under .10 range, both sport only. He would like to do a 14,000 footer hike, I'm not as interested in that but willing to tag along if I can't find a different belay partner for that day. We are flying into Denver on Sunday the 5th and have to be back in the city proper the night of the 9th for work on the 10th. We will bring all the gear we need. What areas would you all suggest? We don't need to stay in Denver during the climbing time but will need an area with hotel/hostel/air BnB so nothing too remote. No multi pitch experience either but between now and then we could work on that. I do have a full rack from setting anchors so mixed routes are ok too, just not ready for full trad.
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Mar 6, 2019 23:28
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One month until I can start bouldering outdoors again. Woo
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Mar 6, 2019 23:53
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Go with someone who can double check your work the first few times. The concepts are straight forward, but the potential results of a mistake are death. I've taught a lot of people to build anchors and generally everyone makes a simple mistake or two their first dozen anchors before the are consistently correct. The hard part isn't knowing what is right, it's identifying the edge cases that look very similar to the correct setup but aren't.
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Mar 7, 2019 00:30
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Sound_man posted:Hey Denver folks- I might head that way in early May for some climbing with a coworker. He climbs in the 5.10s and I'm in the under .10 range, both sport only. He would like to do a 14,000 footer hike, I'm not as interested in that but willing to tag along if I can't find a different belay partner for that day. We are flying into Denver on Sunday the 5th and have to be back in the city proper the night of the 9th for work on the 10th. We will bring all the gear we need. What areas would you all suggest? We don't need to stay in Denver during the climbing time but will need an area with hotel/hostel/air BnB so nothing too remote. He should be prepared for longer approaches and lots of snow in early May for a 14er. Maybe he is aware but May is is when I start skiing them (Gray's, Torrey's, Quandary, etc). As for climbing in Denver I would suggest clear Creek canyon and devil's head. I can send you a list of it helps. CCC for easy access, devil's head for good views. You can go to Boulder canyon if you want as well but my opinion is it is basically the same as CCC but not as good in the range you are looking. I will just be back climbing and could maybe meet up when your buddy is out hiking.
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Mar 7, 2019 00:56
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armorer posted:It's definitely best to have someone with experience sanity check what you are doing to start. That said, setting up a safe system on bolted toprope anchors is the easiest of the possible scenarios you might encounter, and the setup shown in that link is safe if done right. There are some things to consider though that aren't discussed there (this is just what comes to mind immediately): I do agree but I also watched videos and read a book and I was fine. If you are at all smart you will be ok. But if you can find someone to teach you (who actually knows stuff) that is good too. A lot of the stuff I see people "teaching" outside is not good at all so be wary of that.
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Mar 7, 2019 00:58
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Also in all honesty 14ers are kinda.... Ehhhh
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Mar 7, 2019 02:30
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Partial Octopus posted:So my friend and I have a lot of experience top roping and lead climbing in the gym but we've never done outdoor climbing. We looked up some beginner outdoor climbs in our area and found some top rope spots. Yer gonna die
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Mar 7, 2019 02:45
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Sound_man posted:Hey Denver folks- I might head that way in early May for some climbing with a coworker. He climbs in the 5.10s and I'm in the under .10 range, both sport only. He would like to do a 14,000 footer hike, I'm not as interested in that but willing to tag along if I can't find a different belay partner for that day. We are flying into Denver on Sunday the 5th and have to be back in the city proper the night of the 9th for work on the 10th. We will bring all the gear we need. What areas would you all suggest? We don't need to stay in Denver during the climbing time but will need an area with hotel/hostel/air BnB so nothing too remote. May 5 is still going to be very tucked in for snow at altitude even in dry years. This year has been very good for snow. If your pal is comfortable with long approaches, avy analysis, and snow climbing, I’m sure there’s something you could scare up. If not, well. Yer also gonna die.
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Mar 7, 2019 02:47
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ShaneB posted:Also in all honesty 14ers are kinda.... Ehhhh They are only good for skiing.
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Mar 7, 2019 03:18
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remote control carnivore posted:May 5 is still going to be very tucked in for snow at altitude even in dry years. This year has been very good for snow. If your pal is comfortable with long approaches, avy analysis, and snow climbing, I’m sure there’s something you could scare up. You can pretty much always hike Quandary with a pair of micro spikes. It you really want to do one.
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Mar 7, 2019 03:20
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The nice thing about shelf as well is the vast majority of climbs are only as long as the new ET routes. So being in Gym shape is a-OK.
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Mar 7, 2019 04:11
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spwrozek posted:You can pretty much always hike Quandary with a pair of micro spikes. It you really want to do one. Yeah but...quandary east slopes. Yaaaaawn Granted I’m jaded after many ascents myself.
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Mar 7, 2019 04:46
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13ers are the way to go if you want to get up high by interesting routes without the crowds. That’s a great list of Shelf climbs.
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Mar 7, 2019 04:48
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Bud Manstrong posted:
Would add Raven and 2150 AD. I’ve never climbed over at Menses, mostly because my Shelf-focused friend cites it being a chosspile. Any goon input? Fwiw Shelf isn’t one of my favorites.
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Mar 7, 2019 04:54
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remote control carnivore posted:Yeah but...quandary east slopes. Yaaaaawn Oh yeah for sure. But if an out of Towner really wanted to do a 14er with snow still on it I would put it at the top of the list. East slopes are a fun ski though for a fun corn harvest. The shelf list is only things I have done. I am sure there are more fun stuff. I haven't been in a while myself. It has some good routes but I am kinda over it.
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Mar 7, 2019 05:09
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spwrozek posted:You can pretty much always hike Quandary with a pair of micro spikes. It you really want to do one. Please don't hike me.
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Mar 7, 2019 05:44
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TFCC injuries suck 
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Mar 7, 2019 10:43
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Anyone have any experience with elbow pain? I've been climbing for about a month and a half now and since the first week I've been having pain in my elbow that starts slowly at the beginning of a session and then worsens as I continue to climb. Seems to be the tendon at the top of the elbow that connects to the bicep. I've been doing stretches and took four days off over the weekend as I was out of town, but it's immediately come back at about the same level as it was before. I do tend to climb 4 weekdays out of 5 so I may be overdoing it, but the pain hasn't been getting worse and it's better on some days more than others. Should I try a compression sleeve?
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Mar 7, 2019 23:55
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house of the dad posted:Anyone have any experience with elbow pain? I've been climbing for about a month and a half now and since the first week I've been having pain in my elbow that starts slowly at the beginning of a session and then worsens as I continue to climb. Seems to be the tendon at the top of the elbow that connects to the bicep. I've been doing stretches and took four days off over the weekend as I was out of town, but it's immediately come back at about the same level as it was before. I do tend to climb 4 weekdays out of 5 so I may be overdoing it, but the pain hasn't been getting worse and it's better on some days more than others. Should I try a compression sleeve? It sounds like either medial or lateral epicondylitis (golfer's elbow or tennis elbow), depending on which side of the elbow it's on. It is a really common overuse injury among climbers. The best long term avoidance thing you can do is crosstrain tricep exercies(pushups and dips). Once you already have it though, it tends to not go away without rest and rehab. I've had it several times over the years, to varying degrees of severity. The best luck I've had getting rid of it involved routinely doing a lot of pushups and also doing rehab exercises with a thing called a "therabar". There is also a strap device you can wear on your forearm that has a hard plastic puck on it, which basically compresses against the tendon before the attachment point and shifts some of the strain that would otherwise go to the attachment point to the compression point instead. That may help if you insist on climbing hard through the pain, but I am dubious if it actually provides any real benefit.
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Mar 8, 2019 00:08
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I also have golfer elbow from lifting and martial arts. Rice bucket stuff is good, but mostly rest
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Mar 8, 2019 03:01
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house of the dad posted:Anyone have any experience with elbow pain? I've been climbing for about a month and a half now and since the first week I've been having pain in my elbow that starts slowly at the beginning of a session and then worsens as I continue to climb. Seems to be the tendon at the top of the elbow that connects to the bicep. I've been doing stretches and took four days off over the weekend as I was out of town, but it's immediately come back at about the same level as it was before. I do tend to climb 4 weekdays out of 5 so I may be overdoing it, but the pain hasn't been getting worse and it's better on some days more than others. Should I try a compression sleeve? Just reinforcing someone else's good post about tennis/golfer's elbow, but I had this exact thing when I started climbing. Take some time off, let it recover, and do pushups and triceps dips as cross-teaching. Really do take some time off though or it'll just nag you.
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Mar 8, 2019 04:19
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So when I was getting pissy about people saying you shouldn't climb more than 3-4d a week, that was geared towards people who've built up the tendon strength and know their bodies well enough to tolerate a high frequency of training. If it's your first year, climbing to exhaustion 4 out of 5 nights is going to be a lot on your elbows and fingers. Opposition exercises like banded finger extensions will help, but you might want to slow it down to 3 out of 5 or designate one of your days as an 'easy' day. A cool thing about climbing is that you can actually do it a pretty high level up into your fifties so may as well ease into it rather than explode your elbows and suffer long term. I've seen kids get hyped on training and get such bad elbow issues that they need surgery in their early twenties.
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Mar 8, 2019 04:27
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Thanks for the advice. I'm probably overdoing it just because I enjoy climbing and I've been seeing noticeable improvement coming from a mostly sedentary lifestyle. I'll work in more opposition training and avoid some of the more arm-intensive bouldering I've been attempting.
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Mar 8, 2019 05:18
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I can't recommend Eric hurst's rock climber's exercise guide enough, for every single person in here. Its like $20, and is the best investment you can make. It contains a wealth of exercises with frequency, load, and intensity for every conceivable scenario, including general fitness, climbing specific, nutrition, and detailed processes for injury recovery of all sorts. Specifically for the elbow epicondylitis poster: There is a workout where you take sledge hammer or resistance band, hold it by the handle sitting down, and rotate your hand from palm up to palm down (same motion you'd make flipping a pancake). Reverse curls will also help E: Rock Climber's training manual comes in at second place IMO, but delves more into scientific research and theory. Still good, but doesn't get down to the dirty exercise details as quickly or effectively Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Mar 8, 2019 |
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Mar 8, 2019 15:51
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Agreed. I often forget that I have quite a few climbing books I've read over the years. Some gyms have a hammer thing like this with tape markings on the handle in their exercise room. The tape markings allow you to use a consistent difficulty. It's easier if your grip is closer to the weight and harder if further away.
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Mar 8, 2019 16:02
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On the other hand he wrote this and... gently caress that https://trainingforclimbing.com/the-10-4-rule-a-guideline-for-projecting-and-steady-improvement/
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Mar 8, 2019 20:26
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crazycello posted:On the other hand he wrote this and... gently caress that What's wrong with it?
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Mar 8, 2019 23:12
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Ubiquitus posted:I can't recommend Eric hurst's rock climber's exercise guide enough, for every single person in here. Its like $20, and is the best investment you can make. nice, ordered
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Mar 9, 2019 07:14
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I’ll have to check out that book too. Shelf road was awesome yesterday, couldn’t ask for better weather. Only hit some 9s and finally a 10a that felt more like a sustained boulder problem than a sport route, but had a blast in any case. My first time lead belaying and cleaning, I was gonna try my first lead as well, but we ran out of time. Hopefully next time!
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Mar 9, 2019 16:17
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Ubiquitus posted:What's wrong with it? I get what he's saying, but there's a large quantity of climbers who have projects that are going to take more than four days. He gives Megos as an example, but other than him or Ondra, I doubt there's any high level climber that hasn't regularly spent weeks or months on a project. One local in my home area just sent his first 14 after projecting it for years in his late 40s. You can make the argument that it's not 'optimal', but I think there's a lot of people out there who find having big projects inspiring and rewarding which is why we climb in the first place. Once the redpoint process starts, there's so many beta refinements that can still take place to make things more efficient and you miss out on that growth if you arbitrarily stop trying after ten attempts. You can make the argument that you'll lose strength with other styles, but having a long term project doesn't prevent you from still training and addressing weaknesses.
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Mar 9, 2019 16:54
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Like yeah, you probably shouldn't spend an entire season trying to tick your first 12 or probably not even for your first 13 but sometimes climbing is loving hard and hard things take time and patience.
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Mar 9, 2019 17:01
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Partial Octopus posted:So my friend and I have a lot of experience top roping and lead climbing in the gym but we've never done outdoor climbing. We looked up some beginner outdoor climbs in our area and found some top rope spots. Late to this, but want to note that the edge of a cliff is a dangerous place, so be sure you (or the more experienced person you plan to have come along) is tethering if necessary to avoid going over the edge. Also, don’t assume the anchors at the top will be similar to bolted chains. Guidebooks and internet sites often will indicate the nature of top anchors, which can vary from trees to boulders to rock cracks to hardware, depending on the popularity and local ethic of a place, and you’ll need different materials for those. Watch for cyclical loading of the anchor material. Anchor building is not rocket science but if you mess it up that’s bad bad bad.
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Mar 9, 2019 17:29
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I dont disagree with what you said, but there are very specific times and places for it. If someone can maintain high levels of motivation while constantly failing, but are still somewhat close on something that's hard then that can be a viable option. I personally dont think most people can do that. In your own example, it took the person years to send their thing. But you didn't mention that the ancillary training that probably happened in that time? Nor if he was only climbing that thing every day (probably not?) His approach is just saying the same thing, and really there are so many climbs in this world that narrowly focusing on one climb is certainly taking away from your chance to climb all those other great things, while still getting stronger to send the one project. And really, unless it's a precision dyno or something, it's unlikely you'll get stronger to do the one or two moves shutting you down w/o training in other ways for it. Tldr; I agree with Hurst. If we were talking about bouldering, I would agree with you
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Mar 9, 2019 17:34
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Hauki posted:I’ll have to check out that book too. Shelf road was awesome yesterday, couldn’t ask for better weather. Sounds like shelf, short and powerful.
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Mar 9, 2019 19:00
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He's talking about on climbing trips. He literally names local projects as an exception
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Mar 10, 2019 22:25
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What does it mean when you can do 15 pull ups but only 2 dips?
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Mar 11, 2019 01:37
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