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My 71 LTD with the 400 was pretty terrifying to drive, not drive but stop in the modern age and this is after all new drums and yes we knew what we were doing.
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Oct 12, 2018 06:24
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Minor victory, everyone left the house so I put the fuel tank in. I put some rubber on the top to insulate it, raised it and the drat neck was too low in the hole to put the lid on still. This time though I noticed the floor of the trunk was bowed down in the middle, so I used my transmission jack and a block to straighten it, and success! 
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Oct 13, 2018 21:54
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drat I just got a coupon for $50 off of $100 at Napa, gonna try to get a battery this weekend.
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Oct 17, 2018 01:46
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Crushing it all over the place. First of all drum brake springs are a lot easier to remove when you don’t care about them. Second, new and correct springs go on much easier. So all brakes are back together and I’ll bleed them soon. NAPA honored my coupon for $50 off 100 so a new battery is in. Picked up a new ground cable, stud to connect it, and we have power. I had to pull a bulb from the glove box to keep it from draining. There’s a body ground strap I need to add, the headlights didn’t work and the horn was silent so I have some continuity checks to do. But it turns over! I lost a little coolant on a connection but it’s tightened. I would have gone the whole mile and fired it up except for my muffler issue. They are nearly perfect, it fits on my stub of a pipe, they match the size, but the hanger holes aren’t right, but small potatoes. It turns out the hangers mount on a bumper bracket though, which I was avoiding since I need to paint them and I didn’t want to make my car any longer than necessary. Anyway I got some epoxy paint for it so I can get them on.
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Oct 21, 2018 02:42
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Got bucked on a couple of things today. First, I had everything in hand to fill and bleed out the brakes, put pressure on, and the rear bleeders gave nothing. The fronts went fine, clear smooth fluid came out surprisingly quickly. Although I'll end up giving them more since I did it out of order, no worries there though. I went to the rears and started unhooking further and further back, I pulled the line from the wheel cylinder and got a puff of air, but that was it and pressure was holding on the bleeder. The little splitter on the axle was too tight to get either of the hardlines loose, but I managed to crack the rubber hose loose and nothing came out again. So I moved to the other side of the hose where the hardline connects and success, fluid was coming out no problem. I let it drip for a while past the threads and released pressure. I should know better than to trust an old hose, the printed date is 1992 but silly me, since they never had fluid and feel soft perhaps it's fine? The drat thing was crusted over solid. Screw that. Since I had the line on the axle free I blew threw it and no issues there and they were clean at the end so I'll just get a hose a-comin. I also got all the bumper brackets epoxy painted so I was considering putting those on. I want to get new hardware for it, but perhaps somewhere I had the old stuff? I looked at the diagram in the shop manual and started digging through the crates, and it's this weird fucker:  That's a solid metal offset spacer with a square alignment hole. And I have one of them. I need two. I'm surprised since it's so strange that I don't see the other one. I'm going to check on replacements but also dig back through the crates again.
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Oct 22, 2018 03:35
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Just chiming in to say that I'm still following along and this is a good thread.  Sucks you keep running into a bunch of little things though. It sounds like hell finding a car in pieces and trying to get it back together. But in a sick way it also sounds kinda fun to me to go through each system systematically and fix it to eventually have a running and driving car. The million little parts orders would probably drive me mad, though.
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Oct 22, 2018 13:20
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Suburban Dad posted:Just chiming in to say that I'm still following along and this is a good thread. Thank you! I honestly don’t mind the little orders and it’s partly by design to keep my costs spread out over time. If I wasn’t saving for a vacation and a bunch of other things I would have just tore a bunch of stuff down and stocked up on anything rubber or missing. It is nice too that I can look back and see a lot of little things that I’ve touched and competed. I know I could roadkill it and have it running in a few hours but overall it’s less work to do things in a logical order.
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Oct 22, 2018 16:43
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I decided a fun weeknight job was to fix the glove box. Picked the lock, cleaned and lubed. I love picking locks.  I may never end up with a key for it but at least I can admire the dash. 
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Oct 24, 2018 03:59
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drat, that dash has got some mad style. I like it.
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Oct 24, 2018 10:35
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Random day today. Cleaned up some electrical contacts, secured a body to engine ground, put on a bracket for the throttle spring, mounted the bumper support mostly, and bled brakes with the new hose. The return spring mount for some reason was messing with me. It wasn’t put back on with the engine rebuild and I never found a good photo of one. I wandered the aisle of Ace looking for a substitute and grabbed a u bolt for the flat plate. Worked perfect and looks good. Put the new rubber hose on the brakes to the axle, bled out the back brakes. Went back around to the front and let some fluid through there. The front left was nasty, and right about when I was going to stop I started to get a lot of air. Since I had taken off that hose a cup of fluid came out. Whoops! I’ll grab another pint and run it through. At least it was on the line closest to the cylinder. I went back through my tub with the loose bolts and found the bumper bracket bolts, so I put the newly painted bracket up. That’ll allow me to get the mufflers mounted too. That bolt with a cam spacer is pretty slick, I’m sure it will be nice to get the gaps right when I mount the bumper. Of course I haven’t found the other one yet, somehow these things have a way of turning up. When I found the bolts I also came up with the actual throttle spring mount.  The car is about two inches longer and a snag hazard, I might put the bumper on for safety’s sake.  
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Oct 29, 2018 03:03
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Ok this time I’m actually really done with the brakes, bled out the drivers front and checked the passenger front and we’re all good. Also test fit the mufflers and made holes in the brackets to connect them. The brackets on the mufflers were pre drilled but not in the same spacing, oh well all done and ready. I decided I will fire it up without mufflers and set the timing before I mount them so they’ll avoid any potential backfire. Plus it’ll be fun. However I have concluded the drivers side pipe is not connected to the exhaust manifold right, it moves too easy and I can see the donut isn’t set properly. Should be an easy fix and I have a donut but goddamn the access is awful. Since the steering ram leaks anyway I started taking it off. I’ll see about new seals for that and it opens up some space. So next steps, fix this exhaust, fix this ram.
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Nov 11, 2018 04:00
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Going backwards to make progress today. I've ordered seals for the steering ram and pump, even though I am reasonable sure that will only slow down the leakage rather than cure it. Apparently it's a bad design that will just leak. There's a ball joint in the pump too that can be replaced but the part was expensive so I decided to hang tight until I can feel it on it's own. I also decided that to get the drivers side exhaust connected properly I was going to need a LOT more access. I also had a nice phone call with a guy who's nearly complete on his restoration who informed me that the trim has to go on the fenders before the fenders can be mounted, since there's no access to the last two rows of bolts when it's mounted. That seems like a problem when I want to get it painted but not terrible. Off they came, and then the inner fenders. I've removed the bolts holding the steering box in and tomorrow I'll get a pitman arm puller so I can get it really apart.  Here's a good view of the box and the jacked up exhaust donut:  Enhance! 
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Nov 18, 2018 04:03
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I picked up a couple of joint separators, first a big one to get the ram off, then a smaller ball joint separator to get the steering box off of the joint to the control valve. The big one I used an impact and it popped off easy, the small one I used a ratchet, and completely forgot that once it’s loose, there’s no resistance. So that’s how I smashed the poo poo out of my thumb against the brake drum, only a little blood from the bottom of my fingernail, can’t wait to see it tomorrow. I can say with strong certainty that it would have been leaking from this ball joint, and it looks like I’ve got the right seals to fix it, so that’s a nice change. That little ring on it is one of those wires that you find inside of seals that hold the rubber close. There’s no rubber to be found.  Seal for reference.  I also found my smaller diameter 7/16-14 nuts for the exhaust pipe flange in the form of nylon lock nuts at Ace. Combined with the right donut for the exhaust the pipe it went on, not easily but easy enough. It was a lot easier with the steering box taken out so at least that’s a nice coincidence. In that all the broken things were clustered together and obviously broken. Now that the exhaust is together, and my new friend sent me the missing hardware for the bumper that I installed, I may try and start it up soon.
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Nov 24, 2018 01:56
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I put a couple of gallons of gas in the tank and gave it enough cranks to gas it up, with the timing strobe hooked up and it wouldn’t light up. The light works as gas as I can tell, it blinks when I press the button. I had it on #1, and even right on the coil to distributor lead, still nothing. I grabbed some test leads to bench test the coil and got a very weak spark, I also have a spare coil from the truck and couldn’t get much of a spark from that one either. Although I hesitate to call the truck coil “known good”, more of a ran when parked situation. The truck one did have the correct resistance on the primary and in the secondary coils, where the car one was lower on the secondary circuit. Around 7k on the car coil and 10k on the truck. The points open and close fine, and the other voltage checks were fine. I’m kind of zoned in on this coil but idk. I tried a few cranks with the truck coil and still didn’t get any flashes on the timing light. So... I don’t know. I’m just gonna stew on it for a week and try again next weekend.
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Nov 25, 2018 04:58
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That car should/might have a ballast resistor so make sure that is wired correctly. Also if both coils are non-external ballast types and there is an external resistor the primary side wont be getting enough voltage. Are the points and especially the condenser new? If not and the condenser is bad it will kill the input voltage since it's just a capacitor and it can short internally if the electrolyte is dried up. I guess it could be an open short too but I don't think you'd get any spark in that situation. If it does have points then replacing them with an electronic ignition is the best thing you can do for an old car hands down. I'd still get it running first with the points so it will be known working before adding complexity to the problem but after that it's highly recommended.
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Nov 26, 2018 01:49
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Depends on how involved an electronic ignition swap is. HEI distributors are so loving cheap for SBCs that you might as well just swap immediately.
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Nov 26, 2018 07:06
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Seconded on electronic ignition. If there's a pertronix kit for it, it's literally just screw them in where the points go, and jam the trigger down on the old points cam. Toss condenser and reset timing, done. Oh and you might have to wire in a second diode controlled wire to ensure it has power during startup, but doesn't feed power back to the starter when running.
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Nov 26, 2018 20:22
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shy boy from chess club posted:That car should/might have a ballast resistor so make sure that is wired correctly. Also if both coils are non-external ballast types and there is an external resistor the primary side wont be getting enough voltage. Are the points and especially the condenser new? If not and the condenser is bad it will kill the input voltage since it's just a capacitor and it can short internally if the electrolyte is dried up. I guess it could be an open short too but I don't think you'd get any spark in that situation. It actually uses a resistor wire and that diagnostic checked out, its at about 6v with key on, but gets a full 12v when cranking. The coils are both external ballast type. I was testing them with full battery voltage as if I was cranking. Thanks all! I do like the idea of going to electronic, I saw a few kits out there for that, and not too bad for the peace of mind. There’s no condenser, and it’s not shown to have one. The truck coil had one but I don’t think I had it wired in. I’m going to try a fresh coil and see what happens. I also have a dwell meter that I forgot about so I’ll use that to verify the points work.
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Nov 26, 2018 23:49
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What? No, it's got to have a condenser.
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Nov 27, 2018 01:05
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Yea I don't think I've ever seen condenserless points. I think that would ruin the points really quickly. Dwell meter is the way to go. Setting the gap is just to get it to run and use a dwell meter to get it perfect. Then bin the points and go electronic and never think about them again. I'm a pretty much keep it stock guy on some stuff like my 56 IH but if they make positive ground 6V electronic ignition for it I wouldn't be able to throw the points in the bin fast enough.
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Nov 27, 2018 01:25
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You guys are right, there is a condenser that is mounted near on the points. On my truck the condenser is mounted on the side of the coil so when I didn’t see it I thought that was technology that wasn’t around in the 60s. It’s also barely mentioned under general ignition service in my manual, but is shown clearly in the distributor section.
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Nov 29, 2018 06:30
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Mounted a new coil and I actually get spark now! The timing light works as expected when clipped to #1. Lots of cranking but no start still, so I popped the top off of the carburetor. I like the design of this, where the top is a lid that can come off easy while installed. It’s drier than a fart in there. I pulled the rubber line leading to the fuel pump off and there was the essence of gasoline but no gasoline. It also had a couple of small cracks at the end so I replaced it. I’ll swap out the other end too. I was going to try to siphon some gas through it but I couldn’t find my siphon and didn’t feel like drinking gas today. Instead I switched gears and rebuilt the power steering valve, an interesting part. It’s got a ball joint on it and the side threads into a tie rod or something, not sure what it’s called. The ball joint on it looked like a replacement, and is kind of worn. I say it looks like a replacement since it’s different from the one in the manual. The rubber boot that was missing is to hold in grease. Overall it went together fine but I’m suspicious that it will need an adjustment. There’s one nut inside and the instructions are to get it right and back off no more than 1/4 turn, and it tightens against a spring. Seems likely to be wrong but I won’t know until I use it. Pics: All that was left of a rubber boot, just a bunch of rubber I had to wire brush off.  Dry carb, like new! 
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Dec 9, 2018 23:09
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Wife went to play board games with some friends so I got some automotive therapy tonight. First though, I picked up a couple of LED shop lights from Costco at $20 each on sale, so I hung them. I have 5 already in the end of the garage, but the front is dark. Of course the door is an issue since I still want lights when the door is open, so I hung them as low as the chains allowed and as close to the edge of the open door. I still need task lighting but it’s much improved. Next time they’re on sale I’ll get another pair and put them on the edges at the front in the same way, I’m too cheap to fork out for all of them at once.  I then continued my mental health regimen by cleaning up all of the tools and my work bench and getting a sweep in. Painted up the power steering valve with the epoxy paint after cleaning it up with alcohol. The hydraulic cylinder didn’t show any evidence of leaking so I let a sleeping dog lie and didn’t change the seals in them, which I can do on the car anyway. Of course the introduction of paint meant I couldn’t wrap up the steering, but I put on what I could. I do need to figure out which port goes to what, I didn’t document it well and the manual isn’t clear at all. Over to the starting front, I popped the hose off the hard line at the pump and used a clear hose to make sure the gas was coming all the way up, and it was close. I assumed it was a vapor lock since the lines were dry, but it was only about one puff and I could see gas. Next step, crank it and see if I get gas. I’m wondering if the pump has dried up and is failing now? Anyway I went to crank it and nothing. Apparently my timing light causes a drain... so it’s on the charger now. I’ll give it another shot Sunday and maybe Monday, I guess Tuesday is out. Edit: I forgot I also ordered a junkyard distributor for the International, I might make some moves on that project soon too. I’ll need a low pressure electric pump and I can start slapping parts back on it. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Dec 15, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 05:46
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrUjIXm1V7M
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Dec 16, 2018 21:51
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Nice! Settled right into a good idle.
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Dec 16, 2018 22:07
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Yes! First start in a long time is the best. What is that a 352 or 390?
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Dec 16, 2018 22:17
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Yeah dude!
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Dec 16, 2018 23:05
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Thanks! It’s a 390. It wouldn’t run without the key in start though, not sure what that’s about yet. To get here I popped the pump off and ran it by hand until it soaked a rag, then installed and cranked to make sure that it was pumping and it was pretty much gravy from there. Timed it at 10*, the manual specified 6 but also to advance another 4 for high altitude.
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Dec 16, 2018 23:24
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Awesome, congrats.
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Dec 17, 2018 13:38
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I put my power steering valve back on, connected he four hydraulic hoses too. Such a pain in the rear end since they are stiff and have to be perfectly aligned to thread. I must have spent 20 minutes on one connection alone. With that wrapped up (almost, in typing that I just remembered a Cotter pin that didn’t get replaced) I took a look at the ignition wiring again. I spied a bullet connector that was empty, then looked around and found the mate. Performed a diagnostic test to check the resistance wire that was a previous failure and it passed! Y’all know what that means... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5p-MMGAmyc Got a little smoky in the garage and started to stumble. Considering the time of day I decided to hang it up rather than dig in, but it’s running well enough to pop the mufflers on. Next steps, mufflers, get the fender back on, mount my seat and gas pedal, set the parking brake, some functional testing, door and trunk latches. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Dec 24, 2018 |
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Dec 24, 2018 03:58
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Smorgasbord kind of day today. The biggest success was that I filled up the power steering reservoir, started the car, and it worked, without leaking. Left goes left, right goes right, and it didn't do that seesaw thing that was scaring the poo poo out of me. The drat manual had no indication of what the capacity was, it simply said 'fill until 1/4" on dipstick', turns out that was about 1 and a half quarts. So obviously two trips to the store since I didn't just buy two to begin with. I put 3 wheels back on, leaving the one off without a fender to make putting the fender back on easier. I was going to put that fender back together but decided to wait and get shims, rather than stack a half a box of washers like my dad did. With the back tires on I function tested the emergency brake (worked), and the regular brakes (stopped spinning tires, not exactly a feat). I lowered the back half off the jackstands too, so now it's regular height and supported by the suspension again at least partly. Next up is the front inner fender, and tire, then I'll put that side back down so when I align the fender it's with all four on the ground. The fuse for the dome lights was.. augmented.. with a gum wrapper. I eventually found the reason to be the drivers side door plunger is busted and the wires were hanging loose. That'll get replaced and I hope that solves that problem. I put the passenger side courtesy light in, since it was just floating around in my bins. Surprisingly all three courtesy lights work, in two moves and how ever much screwing around with none of the bulbs were broken. All the dash lights worked even. When I got my truck not a single interior bulb worked. Since those worked, and they worked when I cranked the light switch, I moved to find out why the headlights didn't work. Don't ask how long it took to realize that if the dimmer switch isn't connected the lights won't work. One of the bulbs doesn't work, that's it, whoo! The horn button doesn't work, and one of the horns itself doesn't work. I mounted the relay that's there for it and tested them manually but when I removed the high horn it was rattling. She gone! In the last week or so I did get the door latch connected too. I was going to mount the seat but surprise I don't know where the bolts are. This is becoming more and more like a puzzle where I can't find stuff so I go work on another part and hope the thing I wanted shows up. I decided to hold off on my mufflers until I feel like it's running smooth. Right now I want to be sure the choke works properly. The center of the carb is bent somehow, and the choke doesn't close all the way, and I haven't been able to run it long enough to let it open on it's own. The new intermediate goal is to get it out of the garage and be able to start it and let it warm up properly, then get those on. Sorry neighbors. On truck front, the replacement distributor looks good, I cashed in a piggy bank and got some new steel fuel line, electric pump and pressure switch. I'm ordering some electrical connectors and wire to get that done properly, and on the next warm weekend I'll dig in.
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Jan 7, 2019 03:41
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I’m in a weird mode of just randomly doing things as there are so many things without an immediate successor. Drivers side door has been realigned. I’m not satisfied but it’s close. Fender is back on, headlights as well. I mounted the taillights, and I’m always surprised when the bulbs are still good. I even verified the brake lights work. I was worried the switch wouldn’t work. Reverse lights didn’t work, not sure where the issue is, could literally be anywhere in the circuit. Popped the hood on the truck and pulled the throttle body, distributor and coil in preparation for the carb replacement. I also spent time prepping the new distributor, the vacuum advance was stuck on it which meant drilling out two screws that will have to be tapped and replaced. I need a fresh gasket for this carb, to find a place for the oil pressure safety switch, wiring and plumbing and that can be back in the road.
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Jan 28, 2019 20:14
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Big personal news for me, I'm switching companies, I'm hoping that in addition to the extra cash I have extra time and motivation. I wasted some clear warm Denver winter days that I could have been turning a wrench and instead laid on the couch. I did the smallest of tasks but learned a bit today. The drivers seat is now mounted so I can at least sit and pretend. Still need to set the foot of the accelerator pedal. I cleaned the floors up and decided to see if I can get it in gear and pull forward and back a couple of feet, with some emergency stop blocks in place. Nothing but a slight jerk in each direction. The transmission was low on fluid. I poured a quart in, which looked good on the dipstick while running, and tried again. It works! Brakes work too. Although I failed on setting the linkage and it's off by a gear. Marked reverse is neutral, which also means marked park is reverse... That's bad! Probably also means that when I checked the timing and the fluid it was in gear which would skew that. However it's just a bit too cold to futz with it. I fanned out the garage and called it quits. Next weekend is busy and the week after that is a trip to Vegas, and I'm kind of tapped out for spending on the car so I'm out until March. Next post I should have a new personal car and a bit more cash for parts!
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Feb 17, 2019 22:33
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A nice dry day today and I was itching to get back to it. I started a new job last week, bought a 2015 GMC Sierra, went to Vegas and came back with more cash than I left with, and had a pile of small parts waiting to go on. Today's goal was to get the electric pump on and wired to the International. I yanked off the old pump and the old hoses and got the new one in place, and wired up. I'm using an oil pressure safety switch, I was going to tee off of the old pressure sensor but the geometry was not in my favor. Fortunately there were other tapped holes and I used one. Now I pray that it works. I reused the relay that I had from the high pressure pump since it was ready to go. I didn't quite have the ambition to do the plumbing, I'm short a fitting anyway for the carb. I hopped over to the Galaxie to snap some things on. Door switch is in for the drivers side for courtesy lights, floor dimmer switch in and mounted. I learned how the knob comes on thanks so some guys on another forum, so I took apart the shifter. I should have done this before I ever put it in because that sucker needed help. The locking mechanism was real gritty, which explains why it never felt good moving from gear to gear. Without much pressure on the detents it slipped around all sloppy. I cleaned up the reverse light switch and lubed that too. I still can't get them to light up, nor can I get the tails to go, but brake lights work fine. There's a bad section of wire back there that I might splice out, but I would really would like to wire it fresh from head to tail. I've got to find some replacement parts and someone to chrome or polish up some items. Here's the indicator backer, polished steel with an orange painted pointer, and a piece of clear plastic etched on the back with a drat burn in the middle. 
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Mar 11, 2019 02:59
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Congrats both on the new job and beating Vegas.
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Mar 11, 2019 05:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Congrats both on the new job and beating Vegas. I didn't exactly beat Vegas but I did spend less than expected. I'm no cursedshitbox but I have a welder and no fear of looking bad, so it's my turn to rebuild my flatbed. The way this was built initially had a giant piano hinge on the bottom rail of the bed, so dirt always got stuck in the crevice. It also made the bed just a little bit wider, and it was held closed with bolts, so it was a pain to drop the side. New plan is bed side sits on top of the bed, controls and hinges on the outside. Hinges aligned so I can slide it off to the front. I got the passenger side done but there's too much snow to hit the drivers side. Once that is done I'll trim the tailgate so it closes again. I also need to visit my neighbor so I can cut off the corner of the side so it actually slides off, I failed at the geometry, but I'm OK with the setup even with a notch. It also doesn't slide very well when open even the amount that it can so I probably have one put of alignment and I'll have to cut it loose and weld it again. I used a heavy angle as a straight edge, if I can get the other one right I'm calling it a win. Actually even that I can open and slam it shut is a huge win compared to how it was. I spray bombed it all with zinc rich primer and tomorrow I'll hit it black again. I'm not trying to win any awards here. Drivers side reference  Side off  Functional Completion  And no I never removed the gas can despite the hot work because I have a form of blindness as an idiot.
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Mar 16, 2019 05:18
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It's in a pile of snow, that'll keep it cool enough.
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Mar 16, 2019 06:01
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Whew I did it! Truck runs and I even moved it. Took me a while to get the timing right but eventually it ran long enough to check it. I swear every time I've pulled the distributor it's gone back in off by one tooth. I think there's some vacuum leak and I had a backfire out of the carb, I am missing a vac line to the vac advance, and I need to secure the fuel lines but a good feeling to let it idle for a bit. Considering the carb has been in a box for two years I'm going to go ahead and regasket the metering block and fuel bowl. There was a great confirmation that the new fuel pump worked when it poured out of the screw holes of the fuel bowl. I didn't have a mounting point for the throttle spring since the old throttle body was integral. The bolt to hold it only threads in about a quarter of an inch, so I wasnt able to simply add it since there wasn't enough thread engagement. I did have a slightly longer bolt but it was too long to hold it. The bolt also clamps the thermostat so that was a good big deal. I was inspired though and realized it was the perfect case for a threaded stud. Note for future inspired mechanics, if you have a three inch bolt to replace, add some length to it for a nut to thread, or you'll go to Ace Hardware twice. So anyway it spits fuel out the tailpipe, and I'm not sure why it's not all burning. My gut says too much is getting drawn in, like it's leaking past the right passages in the metering block from a bad gasket or seal. It's not misfiring, it runs as smooth as ever, but I realize I might have advanced it too far. I set it right at 10 but I think it ran best at 5.
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Mar 25, 2019 00:40
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StormDrain posted:Took me a while to get the timing right [...] I had a backfire out of the carb, [...] I might have advanced it too far. I think that's where I would start, yeah. Although 10 degrees doesn't sound like much to me. Really, it depends on what your advance curve looks like. It's best, IMO, to rev it up and set the all-in timing to whatever won't ping, then let the base timing fall where it may. If it needs to be significantly different, you'll have to re-spring your mechanical advance. Also, if it's an older Holley, take a look at your power valve. Newer ones have blowout protection, but I understand that early ones can blow the diaphragm from even one backfire.
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Mar 25, 2019 06:30
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 23:41 |
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Oh I should have been more clear. I had the backfire when I was still trying to get it to idle long enough to get to the timing light. None of that once I had it stabbed right and idling smooth. I let it run for at least 2-3 minutes after that without issue. I also picked up a new power valve already, I learned that lesson a few years ago. Thank you for mentioning it!
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Mar 25, 2019 18:30
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