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uXs
May 3, 2005

Mark it zero!

ewe2 posted:

The mountains have their revenge. That is a hell of a talk, in some ways a worse story than the The Summit because lessons should have been learnt. That's also the first time someone clearly said that there wasn't enough rope, it may have been said in the doco but I don't recall it.

I have now seen his entire talk and he's telling it like it's a heroic tale but all I can keep thinking is how stupid these people are for doing this, and later on how some people are horrible scumbags.

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ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

It's a pretty selfish undertaking really, in some ways I'm not surprised how scumbaggy people get to the top of mountaineering. But for most of them it seems to be an increasing obsession if you're good enough to go through the various levels of mountaineering skill. By the end of that you probably have a healthy ego if it wasn't already.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?
Climbing in general is like that, in my experience. Climbers are usually pretty cool people till you get them climbing, then the selfish jerks come out

Switzerland
Feb 18, 2005
Do what thou must do.
Bodies previously entombed in ice have been made accessible due to global warming :(

ZombieLenin
Sep 6, 2009

"Democracy for the insignificant minority, democracy for the rich--that is the democracy of capitalist society." VI Lenin


[/quote]

Maybe they will finally find Irvine’s body.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

ZombieLenin posted:

Maybe they will finally find Irvine’s body.

They shuffled farther up, if the location of Mallory's body was any indication. Most of these bodies are in the icefall.

ZombieLenin
Sep 6, 2009

"Democracy for the insignificant minority, democracy for the rich--that is the democracy of capitalist society." VI Lenin


[/quote]

OMGVBFLOL posted:

They shuffled farther up, if the location of Mallory's body was any indication. Most of these bodies are in the icefall.

To be honest, if they ever do find Irvine I will probably be bumbed out. The Malory and Irvine mystery is one of the most tantalizing things about the mountain for me.

djssniper
Jan 10, 2003


ZombieLenin posted:

To be honest, if they ever do find Irvine I will probably be bumbed out. The Malory and Irvine mystery is one of the most tantalizing things about the mountain for me.

What if he has the camera? Would solve the question if salvable

ZombieLenin
Sep 6, 2009

"Democracy for the insignificant minority, democracy for the rich--that is the democracy of capitalist society." VI Lenin


[/quote]

djssniper posted:

What if he has the camera? Would solve the question if salvable

It would, and that too would be disappointing—maybe. I think not knowing one way or the other and having the thought they may have summited be a mystery might be better than knowing they did or did not.

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
I'd rather know.

ZombieLenin
Sep 6, 2009

"Democracy for the insignificant minority, democracy for the rich--that is the democracy of capitalist society." VI Lenin


[/quote]

Cojawfee posted:

I'd rather know.

I mean, in the end me too. I am just saying when I think about Everest there is always that mystery that makes the mountain special. Otherwise, it has become a tourist trap quite literally for some people. :canada:

AceRimmer
Mar 18, 2009
What's the thread consensus on High Crimes? Grabbed a cheap used copy recently.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

ZombieLenin posted:

I mean, in the end me too. I am just saying when I think about Everest there is always that mystery that makes the mountain special. Otherwise, it has become a tourist trap quite literally for some people. :canada:

yeah. if the camera was found of course I'd want every effort made to preserve and develop the film, but there's also excitement and intrigue that comes from daydreaming about all the possible ways it could have happened. sometimes the mystery is much more satisfying than its solution (remember that sarcophagus that got found recently that turned out to just be full of sewage?) but that's no reason to not seek it.

Future Wax
Feb 17, 2011

There is no inherent quantity of driving that I can increase!

AceRimmer posted:

What's the thread consensus on High Crimes? Grabbed a cheap used copy recently.

I just read it a few weeks ago, it's interesting if a bit flawed. Half of it is about the author's attempt to climb Everest (which went poorly) and the other half is about a climber who was on Everest at the same time and died after his sociopathic fraud of a guide abandoned him, with some good anecdotes about other shady goings-on mixed in among these two stories. The author has a bit of an ax to grind as far as illustrating who the assholes were on his expedition, and he spends a little more time on the family members of the dead climber than I thought was necessary. But if you're interested enough in the subject to be reading this thread I think you'll find it worth reading.

Mr. Funny Pants
Apr 9, 2001

New route with no oxygen or fixed ropes? Sounds like a good time.
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/...kqqp7AZq7QutQVQ

Switzerland
Feb 18, 2005
Do what thou must do.

Mr. Funny Pants posted:

New route with no oxygen or fixed ropes? Sounds like a good time.
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/...kqqp7AZq7QutQVQ

New thread title:

quote:

“Everest is just such a cool place”

Mr. Funny Pants
Apr 9, 2001

quote:

Only around 265 climbers are known to have even attempted to climb Everest via non-standard routes. By Arnette’s calculation based on information pulled from the Himalayan Database, those attempts have resulted in approximately 80 deaths, yielding a 30 percent mortality rate. In other words, you’re about 10 times more likely to die on Everest if you go off the beaten path.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack
That puts the fatality rate a lot more in line with K2. Interesting.

Bugsmasher
May 3, 2004

Three dead on Howse Peak in Banff National park, attempting the east face apparently.

https://twitter.com/EmmaMci/status/1118930268738420736

https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/calgary/climbers-presumed-dead-avalanche-howse-peak-1.5103919?cmp=rss

Bugsmasher fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Apr 18, 2019

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?

Holy poo poo, that’s a pretty high profile crew.

SulfurMonoxideCute
Feb 9, 2008

I was under direct orders not to die
🐵❌💀

Any time there's a fatality here my heart skips a beat and I search for names because I'm always terrified it's someone I know. Not the case this time, but my Facebook has blown up anyway because of who they were. A lot of sad friends posting tonight about the loss of their idols.

Banff National Park has closed the area, they can't proceed with search and recovery because the avalanche conditions are so severe and they're concerned about more accidents or loss of life if anyone ventures into the area.

SulfurMonoxideCute
Feb 9, 2008

I was under direct orders not to die
🐵❌💀

Local article about the Howse incident. They made the summit but were caught in a size 3 avalanche on descent. Their bodies have since been recovered.

https://www.rmoutlook.com/article/avalanche-kills-three-of-the-worlds-best-mountaineers-20190422

jobson groeth
May 17, 2018

by FactsAreUseless
How bad is a size 3 avalanche? Could you ride one out if you're lucky or is it pretty much :rip:

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Even relatively tiny ones will gently caress your poo poo up

SulfurMonoxideCute
Feb 9, 2008

I was under direct orders not to die
🐵❌💀

I always forget this particular rating system is Canadian, so here's the details.



Size 3s are not uncommon, especially this time of year. There's been a number of ski, snowmobile, and snowshoe size 3 fatalities over the past few years. This is the first alpinist incident here in several years that I can think of off the top of my head. Pretty sure there hasn't been any survivors in that kind of avalanche. Size 3 will definitely gently caress you up.

SulfurMonoxideCute fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Apr 23, 2019

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack
Surviving an avalanche is mostly luck. Pretty much all you can do to better the odds is dump your pack and run for your life for the biggest, heaviest thing you can get behind. Swimming to try to stay close to the surface while it's still flowing, bunching your arms up in front of you to create an air pocket once it starts to settle down, and everyone in the group having probing poles, shovels, and avalanche transcievers can improve your odds of being found if there's people looking for you immediately, but if you're alone and buried you're dead even if the impact trauma doesn't get you.

e: 100kPa of impact pressure is more than enough to kill you by itself. it's not a 1:1 comparison since an avalanche is a flowing fluid not a pressure wave, but a 10kPa pressure wave from an explosion will kill most people and severely injure everyone.

Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Apr 24, 2019

jobson groeth
May 17, 2018

by FactsAreUseless

Picnic Princess posted:

I always forget this particular rating system is Canadian, so here's the details.

Thanks for that.

The fact that it's a Canadian rating system vs world wide wouldn't have mattered much though as the chance of an avalanche, snow or rock, on our whole continent is basically zero. It's just not something that you ever really think about.

SulfurMonoxideCute
Feb 9, 2008

I was under direct orders not to die
🐵❌💀

Most Canadians don't have to think about it either, but those of us who do need this kind of system, and the accompanying warning system, because we have some seriously dangerous mountains accessible by day trip, and highways can sometimes get buried. I've personally only witnessed size 1s, because I'm not super active in winter. But I've seen the aftermath of what I would say was maybe a size 5 in person, here's some pics.



This one was so powerful it downed the trees uphill on the other side of the valley.





A shot of the valley, all the brown across it is felled trees.



Here's another pic from a couple years earlier, you can see the trees weren't as mature as the rest, so this wasn't a fresh cut path, but it had been a while since such a massive one hit.



My friend navigating the debris pile, it used to be a really nice well worn trail, and when we decided to come here we didn't know about any of this mess. We crossed it anyway because it's one of my favourite hikes.



I took this on a different day, but you get the point.



BUt imagine getting caught up in something that did that level of damage. RIP you.

jobson groeth
May 17, 2018

by FactsAreUseless
Thanks for the pics. Riding out an avalanche has been struck off the bucket list. Hiking in the Canadian mountains has been moved up it though.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


jobson groeth posted:

Thanks for the pics. Riding out an avalanche has been struck off the bucket list.

That's quitter talk. Just make it the last item.

jobson groeth
May 17, 2018

by FactsAreUseless

simplefish posted:

That's quitter talk. Just make it the last item.

:hmmyes:

Val Helmethead
Apr 24, 2009

Pittsburgh is stored in the balls.

jobson groeth posted:

Thanks for the pics. Riding out an avalanche has been struck off the bucket list. Hiking in the Canadian mountains has been moved up it though.

Yeah, gonna have to go hiking in Canada I guess. Facebook already thinks I want to take a kayak trip into the Canadian Wilderness and then hike something (and become a Wilderness First Responder), so...

SulfurMonoxideCute
Feb 9, 2008

I was under direct orders not to die
🐵❌💀

Oh man, Commonwealth Creek (the local's secret trail my photos are from) barely even scratched the surface of what our hiking has to offer. And make sure to drive the Icefields Parkway, you'll even get to see where the climbers died because it's literally right on the side of the road just across a tiny lake.

Bugsmasher
May 3, 2004

Another avalanche death in the Canadian rockies, this one in Yoho National Park:

https://www.thestar.com/calgary/2019/04/24/oil-and-gas-company-confirms-death-of-one-of-its-employees-in-yoho-avalanche.html

Forecast this weekend has an upslope effect potentially bringing 40cm of snow to parts of Banff national park, will be interesting to see what this does to the already dangerous conditions.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Are people climbing/hiking despite clear and obvious warnings about avalanches ready to go off in the area, or is this one of those "if you hike anywhere here in winter there's always a .01% chance of an avalanche" and a few folks just get super unlucky?

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Leperflesh posted:

Are people climbing/hiking despite clear and obvious warnings about avalanches ready to go off in the area, or is this one of those "if you hike anywhere here in winter there's always a .01% chance of an avalanche" and a few folks just get super unlucky?

Global warming means this trend will only continue. I'm pretty sure spring is a pretty dangerous time to be around big glaciers too.

Nice piece of fish
Jan 29, 2008

Ultra Carp

Leperflesh posted:

Are people climbing/hiking despite clear and obvious warnings about avalanches ready to go off in the area, or is this one of those "if you hike anywhere here in winter there's always a .01% chance of an avalanche" and a few folks just get super unlucky?

Combination of factors. Certain areas at certain times with certain weather are a lot more risky, and with often being in the mountains where weather changes abruptly you can go from low risk on the way up to high risk on the way down.

Coming from a very mountainous country, avalanche awareness is a big deal. Every goddamned year we lose a bunch of tourists up north in the later winter due to them being basically avalanche traps. There's like a spring cleanup once they eventually thaw out. But we can't very well ban them from travel either, so...

Avalanches are a scary loving thing and it is extremely easy to underestimate them and the risk of them. Here's a repost of the thread classic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JC_wIWUC2U

ZombieLenin
Sep 6, 2009

"Democracy for the insignificant minority, democracy for the rich--that is the democracy of capitalist society." VI Lenin


[/quote]

OMGVBFLOL posted:

Surviving an avalanche is mostly luck. Pretty much all you can do to better the odds is dump your pack and run for your life for the biggest, heaviest thing you can get behind. Swimming to try to stay close to the surface while it's still flowing, bunching your arms up in front of you to create an air pocket once it starts to settle down, and everyone in the group having probing poles, shovels, and avalanche transcievers can improve your odds of being found if there's people looking for you immediately, but if you're alone and buried you're dead even if the impact trauma doesn't get you.

e: 100kPa of impact pressure is more than enough to kill you by itself. it's not a 1:1 comparison since an avalanche is a flowing fluid not a pressure wave, but a 10kPa pressure wave from an explosion will kill most people and severely injure everyone.

Isn’t there an inflatable avalanche survival vest that essentially keeps you at, or close to, the surface while the avalanche is in its viscous stage? I could have sworn there was.

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?

ZombieLenin posted:

Isn’t there an inflatable avalanche survival vest that essentially keeps you at, or close to, the surface while the avalanche is in its viscous stage? I could have sworn there was.

It's typically built into a backpack not a vest, but yes, they exist. The best estimates are that they save about 50% of users who otherwise would have died.

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nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?
Probably not a practical thing for them to wear when doing the climbs they’re doing

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