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Uthor posted:Most brakes I've done have needed sockets/wrenches and half needed Allen wrenches. I'd get a ratchet (3/8" drive, 1/2" too if you can), a set of socket and wrenches of the correct type (SAE or metric), and a set of hex drive sockets in the correct type if needed. That's basic tools you'll want around the rest of the car, anyway. Rent the brake spreader. Thanks, I stopped by one today and picked up a few things, played around with them when I got back, and feel much more comfortable. Just gotta wait for the pads and rotors to arrive now. And thanks for the tip about the back, I think I will just bring it somewhere for that part.
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Apr 8, 2019 02:15
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Motronic posted:Maybe? But so easy to correct it hurts that CA is this stupid. Yeah, this is the most sane thing about AZ emissions - if the only reason you fail is a gas cap, they literally just give you one. And AZ only has state-run emissions-only stations, mechanics can't do the inspection. On the flip side, there's basically no publicly documented path for engine swapping anything OBDII. It can be done but seemingly nobody who has done it, even after dealing with the AZ waiver station, wants to actually talk about it.
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Apr 8, 2019 03:53
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spf3million posted:There are check & fix shops, I just happened to go to a check only place. I guess I was hoping it'd pass as-is and wouldn't need any wrenching! It is easy as hell. Retard the timing by turning the distributor in the same direction as rotation to take out the five degrees. It may run like poo poo, and be hard to start, but it'll pass emissions. When it has, use your new-found knowledge to advance the timing so it runs properly, like it was . Next week in stone-age mechanics: Leaning out your mixture until it passes smog!
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Apr 8, 2019 05:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have the housings already been swapped? My '03 WJ with stock taillights has 3157 bulbs, which look nothing like the ones you linked. Also, there's no shortage of LED replacements if you search "3157 LED". Yup. I already made the swap so I foolishly forgot that I’m dealing with the aftermarket decision. See picture 
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Apr 8, 2019 05:50
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So i think mine are the exact ones you posted. Here in light. You can see the difference the full led housing + led bulbs make in the light. It’s absolutely expensive at roughly $500 for everything (swapping into all led lights from head to toe) but the difference is worth it. 
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Apr 8, 2019 05:54
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2011 Alfa Romeo Guilietta @ almost 100k km (which afaik has the same drive train as a 2013 Dodge Dart). I feel rumbling/pulsations/vibration in the clutch pedal at the bite point, and can hear a rumbling noise which can be heard from the outside as well. No clutch slippage or smells apart from that the gearbox doesn't feel as smooth to shift gears with anymore. I get sometimes get "slapping" in the drive train at lower speeds, which is connected to either gear change or provoking it by quickly letting on/off the gas. I've changed all the mounts, which was needed anyway and has helped making it feel a lot more solid. Not noticed anything that indicates a CV joint or front suspension neither. But that shouldn't affect clutch engagement, right? I'm thinking it might be the dual mass flywheel / pilot bearing telling me that it's on its way out. Any ideas? Edit: If it ends up being the DMF, at least the I found the clutch kit for €54. 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Apr 8, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 13:26
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PainterofCrap posted:It is easy as hell. Retard the timing by turning the distributor in the same direction as rotation to take out the five degrees.
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Apr 8, 2019 13:29
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I've got one of those Husqvarna Self Propelled Lawn Mowers and it's sat over the winter and now won't run right. It cranks up, but then runs really low rpm. It sounds like the choke is on (this model's manual says it has an auto-choke). I've only ever used non-ethenol gas in it, I removed the carb, cleaned it out (it looked pretty clean anyway), and it's still running very slowly. Do you guys know anything about auto-chokes? Is there anything besides that it could be?
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Apr 8, 2019 14:59
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spacetoaster posted:I've got one of those Husqvarna Self Propelled Lawn Mowers and it's sat over the winter and now won't run right. e: nvm, auto choke.
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Apr 8, 2019 15:03
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C-Bangin' it 
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spacetoaster posted:I've got one of those Husqvarna Self Propelled Lawn Mowers and it's sat over the winter and now won't run right. -A filthy or (more likely) wet air filter is a common way to choke a lawnmower when you don't want to. But you'd probably have noticed that when you cleaned the carb. -bad gas/ fuel system -carb still faulty even though you gave it a once over. -governor is bent or otherwise out of whack If it was my mower I'd remove the air filter first and see if that's it. If it isn't, I'd give it a few squirts from a can of motor starter spray and see if that revs it up. If so, it's likely a fuel/carb issue. After the ether spray doesn't work I'd see about the governor and ponder if the compression feels reasonable. Then I'd google for stuff I don't know anything about.
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Apr 8, 2019 15:18
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Invalido posted:-A filthy or (more likely) wet air filter is a common way to choke a lawnmower when you don't want to. But you'd probably have noticed that when you cleaned the carb. Thanks. Air filter is good, fuel lines are clean, and ether didn't work. I watched a youtube vid on auto-chokes and will trouble shoot that next.
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Apr 8, 2019 15:32
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Here’s one I’ve struggled with - auto carpet. This Jeeps is nearly perfect except for her passenger side - she spilled coffee, let it sit for days. Moms. But I’ve seen chemical guys advertise strong stuff, and I’ve seen strong steam cleaners do incredible stuff with the right chemicals. Is replacing the carpet a huge task, manually? Looks like you just remove the seats, and if I can guarantee a new clean auto carpet...
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Apr 8, 2019 17:42
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Amy Pole Her posted:Here’s one I’ve struggled with - auto carpet. What have you tried so far? I'd start with an automotive APC / fabric cleaner and some microfibers and a brush. Swapping a carpet may (depending on how old the car is and complexity of interior fittings) require removing a chunk of dashboard to gain access to the edges.
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Apr 8, 2019 18:27
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Amy Pole Her posted:So i think mine are the exact ones you posted. Very nice. I need to polish the headlights on mine, they've started to cloud up really badly in the last year. They make a LED drop-in replacement for the CHMSL too. I have a lovely LED bulb (and flasher) in mine right now, but I've got one of the drop-in replacements sitting in the toolbox to go on it eventually. Amy Pole Her posted:Here’s one I’ve struggled with - auto carpet. None of the work you'll have to do to swap carpet will be technically difficult, but it is a lot of work. You'll also need to pull the center console, the amplifier if it has the Infinity system, and I'd bet all of the lower interior plastics (sill plates, etc) as well. I'm assuming said stain isn't covered up by a floormat.
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Apr 8, 2019 18:28
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Toyota Lite Ace van - is a 3y petrol (carbuerated): vehicle seems to vibrate a lot when getting warmed up in the morning, subsides once engine gets up to temp. I've never owned a carb'd car before so not sure if this is normal or a sign motor mounts might be bad. Don't notice any other weird noises or vibrations when driving.
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Apr 8, 2019 21:55
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My 2000 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport needs a clutch and exhaust. I'm planning on doing the clutch myself, and as part of that I'll be disconnecting the exhaust. Is exhaust replacement something I can do myself (buying the tubes pre-bent I suppose) or should I just take it to an exhaust place? I don't need anything special, this is not a performance vehicle. e: I'm doing the clutch myself to save money. I like DIYing stuff and have a welder but I'm not especially excited about the exhaust as a project, just as a way to get it done. taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Apr 8, 2019 |
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Apr 8, 2019 22:52
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taqueso posted:My 2000 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport needs a clutch and exhaust. I'm planning on doing the clutch myself, and as part of that I'll be disconnecting the exhaust. Is exhaust replacement something I can do myself (buying the tubes pre-bent I suppose) or should I just take it to an exhaust place? I don't need anything special, this is not a performance vehicle.
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Apr 9, 2019 02:05
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I am definitely not sure, it seemed like it might be handy so I mentioned it.
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Apr 9, 2019 02:58
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Is this PCV valve blow-by? Or are my piston rings hosed? Eats about a quart of oil every 1000mi, '02 Ranger with the four-banger https://youtu.be/g05d-2sLT0s
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Apr 9, 2019 05:30
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I'm just looking to change my wiper blades and they all keep saying "for vehicles without rain sensor". Why would that matter?
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Apr 9, 2019 08:14
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Without a clue what vehicle you mean, it's entirely possible different wiper systems use different blades.
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Apr 9, 2019 08:21
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Toyota Lite Ace van - is a 3y petrol (carbuerated): vehicle seems to vibrate a lot when getting warmed up in the morning, subsides once engine gets up to temp. I've never owned a carb'd car before so not sure if this is normal or a sign motor mounts might be bad. Don't notice any other weird noises or vibrations when driving. Follow up question: Was leaving work this evening and pulled out of the car park just fine after letting it warm up as it should, but got to first intersection (downhill) and vehicle just... kept... stalling when I tried to pull out. When I've tried driving off with the engine cold I could always takeoff, was just the transition to 2nd/3rd/4th where it would bog. Was finally able to get moving by revving harder, and had no issues from that up into 4th at 60kph. Pulled over a couple hundred metres down the road where it was safe to see if I could replicate it and had same issue. Again, got it going again by revving harder and rest of drive went without incident. Got home 20 minutes later and tried a takeoff in 1st again, problem had vanished. Any ideas what it might be? Clutch was replaced a few months ago by PO, have reciepts from mechanic.
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Apr 9, 2019 11:12
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I'd guess the choke isn't working very well, but it's been a long time since I played with a carb.
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Apr 9, 2019 13:18
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Nm, they have a guide on it that I somehow missed. Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 9, 2019 17:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Very nice. I need to polish the headlights on mine, they've started to cloud up really badly in the last year. It’s the dreaded stain that just goes down the carpet. You can see it’s just nasty sticky coffee
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Apr 9, 2019 21:17
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A steam cleaner and shop vac can fix nearly anything.
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Apr 9, 2019 21:21
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Trying to help my mom with a long distance diagnosis. I can get my head under the hood later this week but want to go prepared. '07 Ford Taurus SEL, V-6, 130k. Brand new battery, 'check charging system' warning lights up and dings at low rpms, stops warning at about 1500-2000 rpm. My first instinct is slipping belt, but could it be alternator or something else?
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Apr 9, 2019 21:37
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Queen Combat posted:A steam cleaner and shop vac can fix nearly anything. That’s what I’m going for. Gonna hope for good results. I’ve sold myself on buying a set of LSkin seat cover replacements. They’re pricey but a friend has them in his older 06 4Runner and they look great. Same color and piping i want for the WJ. All that’s left is finding some nicer 04 5 spoke chrome wheels, swap tires on em, then throw up some chrome side bars and I’m all done. And for some reasons I’ve turned my “tow vehicle” into the Jeep Grand Cherokee i really wanted back in college but updated as much as I possibly could aka the “it cost me 3k oh whoops 6k jeep wj”
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Apr 9, 2019 21:45
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dee eight posted:'07 Ford Taurus SEL, V-6, 130k. Brand new battery, 'check charging system' warning lights up and dings at low rpms, stops warning at about 1500-2000 rpm. Start with easy stuff- make sure the battery teminals are clean and tight, check ground straps. Was the check charging system light popping up before the new battery went in (I have a feeling I know the answer, but have to ask)? Is the car somewhere that's seasonally snowy/icy/salty? E: does the starter motor turn the engine over as fast as it did when the car was new? glyph fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 9, 2019 21:57
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glyph posted:Start with easy stuff- make sure the battery teminals are clean and tight, check ground straps. Yeah, the battery that came out is probably fine. Montana, so yeah to snow/ice/salt. From the description I get, it seems like the alternator is not doing its thing at low rpm, hence the belt slip thought. Assuming the belt is fine, am I looking at a new alternator?
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Apr 9, 2019 22:01
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I'd spend some time diagnosing it with a voltmeter but the alternator seems most likely if the belt isn't somehow silently slipping.
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Apr 9, 2019 22:05
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Elviscat posted:Is this PCV valve blow-by? Or are my piston rings hosed? Eats about a quart of oil every 1000mi, '02 Ranger with the four-banger Seems pretty abnormal. Have you checked the compression/leakdown? A pcv valve won’t cause blow by, but a stuck open one could cause oil loss.
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Apr 9, 2019 22:58
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Don't Fords of that era have some goofy variable output alternator that can do weird poo poo when failing? e: this is what I was thinking of: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWu8uFj-a7E
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Apr 9, 2019 23:34
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No compression in cylinder one. Pretty common to just replace the whole engine? Mechanic 1 wants $3700 to replace that and a clutch for an ‘09 Fit with a two year warranty on both. Is that reasonable? Anything else I should consider replacing other than the car itself?
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Apr 10, 2019 03:15
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dee eight posted:Trying to help my mom with a long distance diagnosis. I can get my head under the hood later this week but want to go prepared. Have her drive to autozone and let them test the alternator in the parking lot. They can also look for the belt slipping at the same time.
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Apr 10, 2019 03:20
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nitsuga posted:No compression in cylinder one. Pretty common to just replace the whole engine? Was any kind of diag work done? It could be something as simple as a stuck valve.
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Apr 10, 2019 14:08
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My secondary/fun car is an 05 Sentra SE-R and yesterday afternoon I discovered that while the AC works, everything comes out of the defroster vents and nothing blows out of the front facing vents. Assuming I should start dismantling the dash to investigate, anything in particular I should be looking for or just anything obviously wrong?
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Apr 10, 2019 14:14
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Enos Cabell posted:My secondary/fun car is an 05 Sentra SE-R and yesterday afternoon I discovered that while the AC works, everything comes out of the defroster vents and nothing blows out of the front facing vents. Assuming I should start dismantling the dash to investigate, anything in particular I should be looking for or just anything obviously wrong? That's a common issue you can fix with a zip tie https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t8448_ds540760
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Apr 10, 2019 14:31
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opengl128 posted:That's a common issue you can fix with a zip tie https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t8448_ds540760 Awesome, thanks!
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Apr 10, 2019 14:34
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opengl128 posted:Was any kind of diag work done? It could be something as simple as a stuck valve. I would think that with most modern engines, a stuck valve would get hammered by the piston.
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Apr 10, 2019 14:44
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