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IOwnCalculus posted:I would think that with most modern engines, a stuck valve would get hammered by the piston. Not in a non-interference engine silly.
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Apr 10, 2019 16:00
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wesleywillis posted:Not in a non-interference engine silly. Which most modern engines aren't, though.
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Apr 10, 2019 17:49
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wesleywillis posted:Not in a non-interference engine silly. Just about all Honda engines are interference.
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Apr 10, 2019 20:12
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STR posted:Just about all Honda engines are interference. Yup, even when they were all belt-driven. I'd be utterly shocked if the L-series in a Fit is a non-interference engine. At any rate a stuck-fully-open valve with no other problems seems incredibly unlikely. How would it even get stuck? Seized in the valve guide due to massive overheating and/or lack of lubrication? Don't get me wrong, personally I'd do further diagnostics, but I'm not paying myself to do so. If you're paying a shop to tear it apart further, regardless of what the answer is, most of them are going to result in "junkyard engine" being the lowest cost to repair.
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Apr 10, 2019 23:08
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opengl128 posted:Was any kind of diag work done? It could be something as simple as a stuck valve. There was, though I don't know to what extent they diagnosed the issue beyond that there was no compression. Basically they ruled out fuel and spark issues. From there, it sounded like they did a compression test. If I were to give them a call, what kind of questions should I ask about their process? EDIT: Thanks for the continued discussion! Sounds like a junkyard engine it is. It's a tough call, but I figure I probably won't find a better car for $3,700. Might be a sunk cost fallacy, but whatever.
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Apr 11, 2019 00:15
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I happily traded in my '07 Fit for a grand a couple years ago and I have absolutely no regrets. Paying $3,700 bucks to keep driving a ten-year-old Fit is a huge mistake in my opinion, but I've just got my one anecdote and I'm not a mechanic or anything.
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Apr 11, 2019 00:23
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I definitely get the arguments against it. It’s probably too late at this point though, and I haven’t really changed my mind. If I want to have a car, which for now I do, this is most likely the least expensive option. If it turns out I’m “wrong”, I would be upset, but it’s not disastrous for me personally. We’ll see I guess.
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Apr 11, 2019 02:02
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I would at least like to know what's causing the no compression in cyl 1. Could be ring failure or a worn cam lobe.... neither of which necessitates replacing the entire engine
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Apr 11, 2019 12:08
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That makes sense. It wouldn’t hurt to give them a call. Find out a bit more on their process. My guess is they’d be a lot less likely to warranty a ring replacement, but I’ll probably give one other shop a call.
nitsuga fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Apr 11, 2019 |
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Apr 11, 2019 12:21
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fridge corn posted:I would at least like to know what's causing the no compression in cyl 1. Could be ring failure or a worn cam lobe.... neither of which necessitates replacing the entire engine Necessitate, no. Financially sound... also no. I'd expect shop rates on a teardown + machining + rebuild to easily exceed the cost of a used engine if the rings are toast, considering that at least around me, these engines can be had for between $200-700. The wiped cam lobe scenario I'll give you, and at least that one can be confirmed by just popping off the valve cover. I'd hope the shop has already done at least that since a look under there might also tell you if it's just full on dropped a valve or something.
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Apr 11, 2019 14:29
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Who said the engine needs a complete rebuild? Just renew the rings on the dead cylinder in situ  Also sounds like he was quoted for a recon engine anyway
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Apr 11, 2019 15:54
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fridge corn posted:Who said the engine needs a complete rebuild? Just renew the rings on the dead cylinder in situ With the low cost of a junkyard engine and labor rates in anywhere other than like....eastern europe or some developing nation I just don't see how this works out financially.
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Apr 11, 2019 15:58
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Motronic posted:With the low cost of a junkyard engine and labor rates in anywhere other than like....eastern europe or some developing nation I just don't see how this works out financially. Yeah, there are a number of reasons for a cylinder with no compression, and most of the time the repair costs will be prohibitive. It would be nice to know what the exact problem is, but the odds are pretty high the diagnosis would be money wasted, as you'd want to replace the engine anyway.
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Apr 11, 2019 16:38
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It's just the one cylinder tho. Could just be the head gasket even
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Apr 11, 2019 17:57
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Yeah, they said they’re going to start in on it today and let me know if it was something easier than just replacing it wholesale. I got quoted $2300 for a head rebuild, with the caveat that it may not be that alone. Couple shops said pretty much the same thing. Like I said, I get the concern, but personally I’m excited to revive it. It’s been a good car, and it fulfills my needs rather well.
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Apr 11, 2019 18:59
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Hey car goons, just wondering if there's anything special I'm gonna have to do to put a JDM d17a SOHC VTEC into my USA Honda civic EX 2005 with the same motor but USA version vs doing a USA to USA swap?
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Apr 11, 2019 22:31
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Can't speak for that specifically but watch out for emissions/sensor differences, but odds are if you're just swapping the engine itself and the engine is the same code and none of the injection/emissions/electric bits are being used from the JDM engine it shouldn't be a problem. It would be best if you could inspect the two near each other so you can spot differences if there are any.
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Apr 12, 2019 02:02
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:Hey car goons, just wondering if there's anything special I'm gonna have to do to put a JDM d17a SOHC VTEC into my USA Honda civic EX 2005 with the same motor but USA version vs doing a USA to USA swap? Which D17A are you swapping in, or is it a D17A (not a D17A2, which was also used in some JDM models, and should be what you have now)? Do you have the complete harness for the JDM engine, or a cut harness? If it has the complete harness, it should pretty much be plug and play (may need to swap a sensor or two over from the old engine if they're specced differently). The D17A is a lean burn motor, but since that's still a speed density system, the ECU should be able to handle it. If you have a cut harness, compare sensors and locations if you already have the engine. If you don't... I'm sure you can make it run, but I'm not sure what it'll take.
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Apr 12, 2019 05:36
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2017 WRX A year back, I hit a pothole at night on the interstate going 75 and blew a tire. Pulled over and had the car towed to a shop since I was worried about suspension or other damage due to the force of the impact. They checked it and everything was surpisingly OK, including the rim, although that wheel has an extremely slow air leak where it will go from 32psi down to 29psi over about 2 months. Otherwise things have generally seemed fine, no bearing noise, alignment seems fine, car drives normal. However I've now broken two studs on the front left, which is where the impact was. Both times I hand-tightened lugs probably 3/4 of the way when replacing a wheel after switching from summer to winter or whatever, then hit it with the torque stick to get it to 80 (for final wrenching to 89 after the car is back down) and noticed the torque stick wasn't doing what it normally does and found a jammed lug nut. Both times this has happened, the lug was completely jammed, and the stud ended up snapping while trying to get it off with a breaker bar. One was a stock lug nut, one was an Enkei. Could the studs be hosed up from that pothole? Or am I maybe doing something very wrong? It's only ever happened on that front left wheel on that particular car, and I've used my impact gun on wheels numerous times and think my technique is fine Or maybe Subaru just makes terrible threaded objects, considering how hard it was to change the J-Pipe on a nearly brand-new WRX and how I had to drill/tap the seat holes because they'd crossthreaded the mounting bolts. Edit: On a side note, anyone know where to get Enkei lug nuts that don't have crazy shipping? Tire Rack (where my wheels came from) has them for $0.75/ea which seems right but the shipping is $16 and I'd rather avoid that nonsense. Enkei TS-10 18x8.5 for 2017 Subaru WRX Limited. ssb fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Apr 12, 2019 |
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Apr 12, 2019 13:50
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Before you start turning them, line them up, press against the stud, and give it a turn backwards until you feel the "click" of the threads engaging. Then start them by hand with a socket, until the threads are fully through the nut.
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Apr 12, 2019 16:10
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STR posted:Before you start turning them, line them up, press against the stud, and give it a turn backwards until you feel the "click" of the threads engaging. Then start them by hand with a socket, until the threads are fully through the nut. That's what I'm doing, I'm hand-tightening them like 3/4 of the way and they're going on fine, just turning the socket by hand. I don't think I'm cross-threading them.
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Apr 12, 2019 16:47
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To be honest, I don't run a tire shop and torque sticks don't trip my trigger. I understand their use in a profit margin type of thing when running a business. I take the time with a torque wrench because I only have a few times to do it a year versus 100 times per day. Seems like yanking the tire would have been the first thing the shop would do to inspect...? So did you do something with the wheel/tire between the tire place and yourself? And dropping a few PSI over a couple months is nothing.
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Apr 12, 2019 16:58
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:To be honest, I don't run a tire shop and torque sticks don't trip my trigger. I understand their use in a profit margin type of thing when running a business. I take the time with a torque wrench because I only have a few times to do it a year versus 100 times per day. The shop had the car last March or something when I hit the pothole. Next time the wheels were off was a month or so later when I put on my summer wheels at home with no issue. First stud broke while putting the wheels back on after replacing the brakes last October or so - hand tightened then hit it with the torque stick and it jammed really quickly and then snapped the log while trying to get it off with a breaker bar. Then it was fine putting winter tires on last November or whenever I did it. Second break was last weekend putting summer tires on, again doing it by hand for most of the way. My procedure is to take the wheel off with the gun, put the new wheel on, hand-tighten all lugs til tehy're probably 3/4 of the way, stick them to 80, and then when all wheels are back on and the car is back on the ground, I wrench to 89. That's every time my wheels have been on/off since the pothole. Really the main question is "is it plausible that the pothole somehow hosed up my lugs, or maybe the shop just did a gudentight with their impact gun and stretched some threads weird?" Otherwise I guess I'm just double-checking my procedure. It's what I've been doing for about 20 years, mostly on my car but also wife's car and a number of friends' cars who ask me to rotate their tires for them or whatever. I've only had like 1 stud snap in the previous how many years, so two in one year is disconcerting, and I'm trying to find an explanation for it. Re: PSI, I wasn't overly worried - just explaining the possible strength of the impact. Here's a video of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeD1ZEPjfKs The date is way off because the camera battery drained I guess - it was actually Feb 28 2018 based on upload date.
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Apr 12, 2019 17:03
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Hey, never posted in AI before, but do you guys have any kind of tool lease/exchange program? I need a pusher for a 93 Civic trailing arm bushing, which is a $250 tool that I'd use once.
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Apr 12, 2019 17:13
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MrBusiness posted:Hey, never posted in AI before, but do you guys have any kind of tool lease/exchange program? I need a pusher for a 93 Civic trailing arm bushing, which is a $250 tool that I'd use once. Most large auto parts stores (AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.) will have loaner tools like this. Essentially you're buying the tool and then getting a full refund when you bring it back. Some tools can be pricey, but again, you get it all back.
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Apr 12, 2019 17:27
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If you suspect the integrity of the lugs, replacing all of them on that wheel is among the cheaper things you could shotgun at a problem.
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Apr 12, 2019 19:36
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Most large auto parts stores (AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.) will have loaner tools like this. Essentially you're buying the tool and then getting a full refund when you bring it back. Some tools can be pricey, but again, you get it all back. While I totally agree with this and give the same advice, just be careful on some of the conditions of the tools you are receiving. With large torque application tools you might see hamfisted attempts at using the tool that screws up the threads and well...to put it mildly may make a bad day for you even worse. Pullers, ball joint stuff, spring compressors, etc.
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Apr 12, 2019 20:00
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Colostomy Bag posted:While I totally agree with this and give the same advice, just be careful on some of the conditions of the tools you are receiving. With large torque application tools you might see hamfisted attempts at using the tool that screws up the threads and well...to put it mildly may make a bad day for you even worse. Pullers, ball joint stuff, spring compressors, etc. A very good point. Always look over the tools that you rent/borrow and make sure nothing looks too fuckered up. Inspect the non-potentially-harmful stuff, too. I've had to return more than one flare tool because they were apparently made from cheese and couldn't flare a line for poo poo.
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Apr 12, 2019 20:53
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STR posted:Which D17A are you swapping in, or is it a D17A (not a D17A2, which was also used in some JDM models, and should be what you have now)? Do you have the complete harness for the JDM engine, or a cut harness? The car has a D17a2 in it right now, what I'm looking at is this also I don't have any sort of new harness just whats on the old engine, I watched a couple of videos and they never mentioned the harness, that said videos for this particular thing is sparse, the only difference I immediately noticed was that the JDM has a different oil pan but apparently it's a non issue and it fits all the same, I could be wrong though I actually don't know a whole lot about doing this, I'd be getting a shop to do it. They want to charge me 800ish for a used engine with 170k on it and I can get one of these for cheaper after shipping with considerably less miles on it. also the car is a manual transmission if that matters. runaway dog fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Apr 12, 2019 |
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Apr 12, 2019 21:00
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Petrol 3y (carb) LiteAce: Ok, so my stalling when cold issue does seem to be just not letting it warm up enough on cold mornings (Southern Hemisphere winter is coming). Kind of annoying to have to spend ~4 minutes or so waiting for vehicle to warm up but I guess that's why I carry a smartphone. The last two days it's blown a fair bit of white smoke on startup, goes away once the choke is off. Will check oil for any coolant today, anything else I should look for? Could it be normal?
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Apr 12, 2019 21:07
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:A very good point. Always look over the tools that you rent/borrow and make sure nothing looks too fuckered up. Inspect the non-potentially-harmful stuff, too. I've had to return more than one flare tool because they were apparently made from cheese and couldn't flare a line for poo poo. Oh hell, thanks, forgot that one...whatever you do, don't rent a brake flaring kit.
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Apr 12, 2019 21:38
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Javid posted:If you suspect the integrity of the lugs, replacing all of them on that wheel is among the cheaper things you could shotgun at a problem. The studs, more than the lugs (the second one broke from a brand new Enkei lug), but that's probably a good idea. I guess I'm still wondering why they're breaking, but there's enough possible reasons that it's probably not worth figuring out. I'll just replace the remaining older studs on that wheel with new ones next time I can be hosed to take the wheel apart and pull the brake.
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Apr 13, 2019 04:48
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shortspecialbus posted:maybe the shop just did a gudentight with their impact gun and stretched some threads weird? This is probably what happened. Yeah, just replace the rest of them at this point.
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Apr 13, 2019 05:55
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Looking for a recommendation on some trailer lights. I have the standard flat 4 trailer plug. I’m putting on a beefy bike rack that will obscure the tail lights and turn signals. If I put a cover on the bike it’ll 100% obscure. In the interest of avoiding a ticket or getting rear ended, I wanted to hook up some lights or a light bar to the rack. The rack is aluminum so the magnetic ones are out. Rack in question: https://www.1up-usa.com/product/quik-rack-single/ I was thinking something slim and adhesive might work, but most adhesive lights I’m seeing are the big 48” or 60” strip lights. If there was a separate left and right, maybe 12”, that seems like it would work better. Any suggestions?
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Apr 13, 2019 13:34
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First rule of thumb with trailer rights, be amazed that they all work.
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Apr 13, 2019 15:08
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Hey you GMT800 guys -- now that I'm driving the '05 Escalade again, I'm looking at fixing the problem where a strong diagonal bump will make the whole front of the truck feel like it's falling off. I've seen a lot of references to the steering intermediate shaft and the steering column bearing. I just took one side of the intermediate shaft off and it is tight, both rotationally and in/out. The steering column bearing definitely has some play in it, but it is already the green version. From what I've seen, the white one is the original and the green is the updated replacement. Does the green version go bad, too? As far as I know it's original, when did they start putting the green ones in? Edit: God drat, I love stupid trucks. Found a zip tie fix for the column bushing... it definitely tightened it up a bit, now I have to drive it some to see if it's a fix, but this is the anti-BMW. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Apr 13, 2019 |
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Apr 13, 2019 15:21
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EVERYWHERE 
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Looking for a recommendation on some trailer lights. I have the standard flat 4 trailer plug. I’m putting on a beefy bike rack that will obscure the tail lights and turn signals. If I put a cover on the bike it’ll 100% obscure. In the interest of avoiding a ticket or getting rear ended, I wanted to hook up some lights or a light bar to the rack. The rack is aluminum so the magnetic ones are out. Anyways, with that rack my suggestion would be to just buy a trailer light kit. Amazon has a bunch here: https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Lighting/b/ref=dp_bc_aui_C_4?node=15737741 I've seen them at Walmart, Tractor Supply, Autozone, etc. as well. Basically anywhere that sells trailer parts. Get a kit with just the red lights since all you have is the four flat connector, drill two holes, and mount it up. Another option might be one of these LED strips like some of the pickup crowd run: https://www.amazon.com/SOLMORE-Tailgate-Waterproof-Flexible-Running/dp/B07DLXJL4B/ I don't know if those can be modified to get along with the folding mechanism but it'd definitely do the job if so. Not endorsing any specific products though, do your own research on brands.
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Apr 13, 2019 16:17
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Why not just run the temporary towing lights like a tow truck would have? https://www.walmart.com/ip/MaxxHaul-80778-12V-Magnetic-Towing-Light-Kit-Dual-Sided-for-RV-Boat-Trailer-and-More-DOT-Approved/357416250
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Apr 13, 2019 16:26
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StormDrain posted:Why not just run the temporary towing lights like a tow truck would have? Those attach magnetically, which won't work on the aluminum rack. Also something I found out when setting up my ham radio gear, a lot of insurance policies don't cover damage to or caused by anything attached to your vehicle with temporary connectors like magnets or suction cups. If they come loose and cause damage that's all on you, where something that has been permanently attached or connected to designed connection points like a trailer hitch is considered to be part of the vehicle. Considering that bcoCP just has the one rack and isn't trying to use a dozen different things that all block their taillights I'd definitely go with something that'd count as "permanently attached". wolrah fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Apr 13, 2019 |
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Apr 13, 2019 17:08
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You could epoxy some neodymium magnets to your setup.
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Apr 13, 2019 18:04
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