|
If single pitch, I’ll lower. If multipitch with a walk off, I’ll walk. If I have to rap, I extend it.
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 01:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 00:35 |
|
|
Mokelumne Trekka posted:I finally got to a point where I understand the rappel system and don't feel as scared, though I must admit I havent gone down anything too gnarly. I extend when doing multiple raps and use the same double sling for extending the atc and attaching to the anchor. For single pitch I attach it directly to the harness.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 13:51
|
|
|
Rap chat: Whether you extend or don't extend, always knot the rope ends and use a prussik/autoblock.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 15:33
|
|
|
armorer posted:Rap chat: Whether you extend or don't extend, always knot the rope ends and use a prussik/autoblock. Not that I’ve been outside in ... too long, but I have gotten lazy about both of these on single pitch and it’s dumb. Thanks for the reminder.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 15:56
|
|
|
I wanted to say thank you to whoever recommended the Scarpa Instincts for my wide rear end duck feet. They're the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn and fit my feet perfectly. I also wanted to note that in just two weeks the theraband flex bar fixed my crippling tennis elbow. Can't recommend it enough.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 16:00
|
|
|
Partial Octopus posted:I wanted to say thank you to whoever recommended the Scarpa Instincts for my wide rear end duck feet. They're the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn and fit my feet perfectly. What color did you get?
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 16:23
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:What color did you get? Get the green. The red is way too easy. I started doing the tyler twist exercise, 3 sets of 15, 30 second rest between sets, once per day. During the second week I upped it to twice a day, once in the morning, and once after I got home from work.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 16:26
|
|
|
Partial Octopus posted:I wanted to say thank you to whoever recommended the Scarpa Instincts for my wide rear end duck feet. They're the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn and fit my feet perfectly. Yeah! Flexbar is magic
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2019 18:16
|
|
|
First day climbing today; new gym just opened. V0's easy, V1's some were a tad challenging, V2's got like one done... V3's lol wtf. I was not prepared for how much my forearms, wrists, and fingers hurt! gently caress. And go figure now that the nice weather is here, while walking my dog we saw our first rabbit of the season; so she had to chase it and I did not have the strength to do much about it. Looking forward to going again soon, though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2019 02:00
|
|
|
I tried a smaller size shoe today than yesterday; my gym doesn't have half sizes. They were kinda hurting the arches of my feet- is that normal or were they just too small? My toes felt good, just the arches...
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 00:35
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I tried a smaller size shoe today than yesterday; my gym doesn't have half sizes. They were kinda hurting the arches of my feet- is that normal or were they just too small? My toes felt good, just the arches... Does it hurt to wear your shoes? They're too small
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 05:08
|
|
|
Slimy Hog posted:Does it hurt to wear your shoes? They're too small Like in general? No. But after 2 hours of wearing those shoes yesterday, yea, the arches are still kind of sore today. My normal shoes are a size 10 mens, so I tried a 10 on Saturday and they were decent. A bit of extra room for the toes so that's why I decided to try a 9 yesterday. I think for the basic stuff I'm climbing I'll be fine wearing 10's so I'm probably just going to do that until my gym gets their merch in and then I'll try/buy a 9.5 and see how that is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 12:56
|
|
|
sometimes i dont extend my atc to rap because im lazy and for some reason those are always the times my shorts get sucked up into the brake????? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 19:44
|
|
|
The only bouldering gym in my town - well, in the entire country - closed down today, so I'm here to pour out some sadness. They're trying to re-open a "pop-up wall" late May, so it could be worse, but their estimate for a proper reopening at a new location is for September 2020 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 22:21
|
|
|
In the country?? where you at
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 22:32
|
|
|
Syncopated posted:In the country?? where you at Estonia. The place was popular, the issue was apparently with the landlords being huge jerks (that part was covered in local media even) C-SPAM was right
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 09:30
|
|
|
armorer posted:Yeah! Flexbar is magic Any idea if this thing is good for golfers/climbers elbow (inside elbow pain instead of outside pain)
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 04:50
|
|
|
prom candy posted:Any idea if this thing is good for golfers/climbers elbow (inside elbow pain instead of outside pain) I found Dr. Julian Saunder's advice to work for me. The recommendation is to use a dumbell. I have a FlexBar and was kind of meh on it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 06:24
|
|
|
prom candy posted:Any idea if this thing is good for golfers/climbers elbow (inside elbow pain instead of outside pain) This is exactly what I used it for and it helped me. I recommended it in this thread to Partial Octopus, and it appeared to work for him from his post. Also, do pushups and/or dips though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 11:49
|
|
|
Rice bucket cleared up nagging tendinitis (golfer) that was there for years in less than a month for me. So you should check that out too. Training Beta podcast rice bucket routine they had is what I did.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 15:06
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Like in general? No. But after 2 hours of wearing those shoes yesterday, yea, the arches are still kind of sore today. It's pretty normal for your climbing shoes to be uncomfortable after wearing them for 30 minutes straight let alone 2 hours. If you're new to climbing your feet are probably just weak. I would give it a few weeks as the pain will probably go away. prom candy posted:Any idea if this thing is good for golfers/climbers elbow (inside elbow pain instead of outside pain) It is. My friend had it pretty bad and it also cured his inside elbow pain. You want to do this exercise: http://www.thera-bandacademy.com/tba-exercise/FlexBar-Reverse-Twist-for-Golfers-Elbow
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 15:13
|
|
|
Rice bucket is good, another thing that works for people is doing wrist rotations with a heavy hammer (5lb weight stuck on a cutoff broom handle or something).
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2019 15:13
|
|
|
drat lots of good tips, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2019 04:49
|
|
|
David lama and team missing in Canada after a big avalanche... Man that would be another big loss to the Alpine climbing world. Probably not alive... http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2019/apr/18/climbers-jess-roskelley-david-lama-hansjorg-auer-f/ spwrozek fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Apr 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2019 17:25
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:David lama and team missing in Canada after a big avalanche... Man that would be another big loss to the Alpine climbing world. Ahhh gently caress. Auer too...
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2019 20:21
|
|
|
Gym opened last Saturday. I went then, Sunday, Tuesday, and last night. Definitely over did myself, but holy poo poo climbing is like all I've been able to think about since that first experience. Rest days are the worst  I watched Dawn Wall shortly before the gym opened, then after reading through the past dozen pages in thread or so I decided to rent Free Solo on Amazon this morning. Absolutely incredible. I can't imagine climbing for 3+ hours straight, never mind 3000 feet up in the air too 
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 15:59
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Gym opened last Saturday. I went then, Sunday, Tuesday, and last night. Definitely over did myself, but holy poo poo climbing is like all I've been able to think about since that first experience. Rest days are the worst It's a drug. The best kind.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 17:43
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Gym opened last Saturday. I went then, Sunday, Tuesday, and last night. Definitely over did myself, but holy poo poo climbing is like all I've been able to think about since that first experience. Rest days are the worst I've been four times this week. Debating going tomorrow as well...
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 19:07
|
|
|
Tears In A Vial posted:I've been four times this week. Debating going tomorrow as well... Rest days are good and necessary. Took the week off due to moving, sent back to back V5s for the first time. Stoke is high.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 20:48
|
|
|
I took about 6-7 weeks off due to my husband's injury and then traveling. Dropped from 5.9s to 5.7s.  As I posted about a while ago, we are outdoor climbing in Zion in less than 2 months and I'm so worried. We are moving, very busy, and play in a soccer league, so I don't get to go as often as I want to. Today I struggled on a minor overhang on a 5.7, and it felt like I was learning all over again.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 21:41
|
|
|
I just had a first time (finger) tendon spasm after I'd returned home from a bouldering sesh. Anyone else ever had one of these? Freaked me out then I just laughed it off. I was stirring a pot while holding a ladle with fingers wrapped round the handle, when suddenly the ring finger tendon seized up, formed into a hook, while the tendon arching from that finger up the inner arm went tense. Dropped the ladle and tried to release my finger and it went "normal" again after a couple of seconds. So strange. I may just put it down to overuse - been house cleaning, shoe polishing, and bouldering all in the space of 24 hours - and breaking in new climbing shoes which are super painful with result that I might inadvertantly be relying on my hands more when unsure of my step on volumes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 22:30
|
|
|
I need tips and tricks for footwork on horizontal routes. I keep crapping out on my gym project one clip from the anchors because I get worn out, and I think it's because i do'nt know where to put my drat feet. Please do not suggest bouldering, b/c I do not boulder for orthopedic reasons.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 02:10
|
|
|
remote control carnivore posted:I need tips and tricks for footwork on horizontal routes. I keep crapping out on my gym project one clip from the anchors because I get worn out, and I think it's because i do'nt know where to put my drat feet. Climb stuff you think you can't send, ideally overhung. Same idea as bouldering. Do hard moves a lot.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 04:52
|
|
|
Betazoid posted:I took about 6-7 weeks off due to my husband's injury and then traveling. Dropped from 5.9s to 5.7s. It comes back pretty quickly if you can start going 3 days a week. Once a week or so, it takes longer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2019 11:30
|
|
|
I've been climbing regularly (usually 3 times a week) at the gym for a year and I am still godawful at outdoor climbing. The simplest explanation is because I only do outdoor climbs twice a month, if even that, however I find outdoor/indoor grades quite different too. Indoor 5.8 is very easy; outdoor 5.8 not so much. I failed a 5.8 crack near Trinidad, CA on the coast this weekend, very discouraging. I am not talented but I enjoy this hobby despite my questionable progress.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2019 03:20
|
|
|
Crack climbing is practically its own discipline; don’t get discouraged.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2019 04:09
|
|
|
Climbing outside is very different than climbing inside. Training inside can ease the transition to climbing outside, but nothing improves proficiency in climbing outside more than climbing outside. Climbing proficiency also increases very slowly. A year isn't very long, but it sounds like you have a good frequency going, and I'm sure you'll see improvement if you stay disciplined. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Apr 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2019 04:26
|
|
|
I went climbing outside this weekend: my GF and I took a road trip to Seattle to visit family and hit Vantage on the way there and Exit 38 on the way back. Fun climbing, led just a few routes each day but it all felt good. The huge difference in rock and climate between the two was nifty also. You’ve got desert basalt and rainforest granite with just 100 miles between the two.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2019 17:49
|
|
|
Exit 38 is some of the least pleasant rock around Seattle, try Index if you repeat the trip.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2019 18:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 00:35 |
|
|
Duly noted. Given our time constraints Exit 38 was nice since it’s 5 minutes off 90. Next time maybe we’ll leave a little earlier and hit Index instead. What do you think about Index vs Vantage?
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2019 19:38
|
|