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crazzy posted:They were backed off to 7-8/10th's, that's what you do under a full course yellow so you can catch up to the pace/safety car. This is pretty much how it rolls in NASA. Drive 8/9ths and get to the pace car ASAP. Obviously back off around the incident, but basically race pace elsewhere.
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Apr 25, 2019 01:38
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I dyno'd on Tuesday for NASA TT. If I did the math right I have a NASA 196whp average that I plan to claim as 200whp as a buffer. Last time I weighed my car it was 2840lb with me in it, I was planning to claim 2750lb as a large buffer so I don't have to deal with any bullshit. This means I have a raw PTW of 13.75. +0.6 for <266mm section width +0.0 for tire compound so I can play with some takeoff Hoosier R7s if I want (not likely) -0.3 for roofline mod because of the Mugen hardtop This gives me an adjusted PTW of 13.95... so I could make another 30whp average (lol) or drop 450 pounds (lol) and still fit in TT4. Do my buffers sound right to you guys, or am I cutting it too tight? Can you easily amend your classing sheet mid season, such as in the case of popping the motor and putting a F22C1 into it which makes somewhere around 220whp average?
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Apr 26, 2019 00:08
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why not go with a K24 at that point?
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Apr 26, 2019 00:34
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I haven't seen anyone in TT with one yet, but that would have to go through Greg for a dyno re-class. I am somewhat worried it would make too much power, but I do agree it is the correct way to go for these cars
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Apr 26, 2019 00:40
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There's also the issue of getting a K-swapped S2K through emissions now... but are you even keeping that car registered / legal?
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Apr 26, 2019 00:42
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if you go with the f22c, don’t you also need to swap other stuff anyways (iirc, the rear geometry changed between the ap1s and 2s) to not have to do a dyno reclass anyways? keep in mind, I don’t know what I’m talking about
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Apr 26, 2019 00:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's also the issue of getting a K-swapped S2K through emissions now... but are you even keeping that car registered / legal? yeah, that is the other fuckin' problem now that Arizona has updated their emissions system. I failed emissions and got sent to state ref with my Civic Si daily driver because I forgot it had a FlashPro. That was a simple reflash and pass at ref, but different story when you have to run a KPro to even start the car. I do drive the car occasionally on the street now, but I've heard it might be able to be insured through Haggary and become emission exempt by doing that. Don't know much about it though. Phone posted:if you go with the f22c, don’t you also need to swap other stuff anyways (iirc, the rear geometry changed between the ap1s and 2s) to not have to do a dyno reclass anyways? I might be retarded and the reclass thing went away with the TT letter classes, but either way a K24 will probably make more than F22C power with the swap required changes and normal updates. I also don't know much about the process BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Apr 26, 2019 |
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Apr 26, 2019 00:45
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BlackMK4 posted:I dyno'd on Tuesday for NASA TT. I'd cut it closer than that if you can. Dynojets seem to be pretty consistent with hp ratings provided their altitude is set correctly. Usually the suprise track dyno would come in lower power from heat soak alone vs 180 deg coolant baseline. Back when I helped with a NASA car we would run it across the scales after practice and fine tune the weight with extra fuel. You'll run the risk of getting disqualified if your math is off. Whoops I flew to close to the sun doesn't have the stigma that getting caught at blatant cheating does imho.
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Apr 26, 2019 01:35
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Wow NASA sounds like a pain in the balls. ... let's just ignore what I'm looking at re: SCCA carburetor rules... 
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Apr 26, 2019 02:29
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mekilljoydammit posted:Wow NASA sounds like a pain in the balls. Lol. SCCA always felt like a bunch of lawyers got into racing, and NASA felt like ex-scca folks made their own series with blackjack and hookers. I think there should be awards and a mention in the rule books that name whoever made a new rule get added. Every class I've ever looked into has had a bit about having only one engine, and that one engine can only power the wheels and accessories necessary to running the engine. There should be a picture of the chaparral 2j and it's story under that rule imho.
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Apr 26, 2019 03:36
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honda whisperer posted:Lol. I dunno, the PT/TT points crap is crazy to me. Honestly I feel like it's sorta... SCCA is big enough for long enough that they settled on policable rule sets (even if arcane) because there's been enough people over the years to poke holes in things. NASA... I just can't pretend I think power/weight is actually policable for an amateur org.
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Apr 26, 2019 03:44
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mekilljoydammit posted:I dunno, the PT/TT points crap is crazy to me. It's not. Anyone who cares enough and has the funds to back it up could cheat their faces off. And get a plastic trophy and maybe some free tires. If it ever got televised and real sponsors showed up it would be a poo poo show. But for people doing it for the love of the game it's much more flexible than SCCA.
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Apr 26, 2019 04:12
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And I get to take the engine home in my engine bay with my plastic trophy instead of a bunch of boxes.
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Apr 26, 2019 05:08
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I also don't have to be a millionaire to participate. Or be good enough to have a millionaire sponsor.
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Apr 26, 2019 14:20
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BlackMK4 posted:I do drive the car occasionally on the street now, but I've heard it might be able to be insured through Haggary and become emission exempt by doing that. Don't know much about it though. I just wish that there was any documentation at all available on how to perform an AZ-compliant engine swap into an OBD-II vehicle. But yeah if Hagerty will insure that car, it meets the state definition of "limited use insurance" and from then on your registration renewals will be labeled no emissions required. It's what I have on my C10 and it hasn't been to an emissions station in over a decade now. Plus I can register it for five years at a shot.
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Apr 26, 2019 14:47
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See, that's really what bothers me - NASA seems like it works as long as there's an unspoken thing on nobody trying too hard to be competitive.
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Apr 26, 2019 15:25
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The guys I raced with had those factory five spec cobras. We all parked together and hung out all weekend. If someone car broke we all pitched in to help them get back on track. Once on track though it was serious competition. No intentional punting or the like but good close racing was more important than just winning.
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Apr 26, 2019 18:46
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Come race vintage and hang out with the coolest grandpas There will be a thread and more pictures later 
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Apr 26, 2019 21:19
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Now you're talking! Wish I was smaller where I could reasonably fit in formula cars.
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Apr 26, 2019 21:48
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mekilljoydammit posted:Now you're talking! Wish I was smaller where I could reasonably fit in formula cars. After driving the locost (1150lb) I just couldn't go back to a heavy full body car. I don't trust the locost at full race pace and it would be tricky to fit into an existing class if I wanted to wheel to wheel. This thing is old enough I can race vintage ford, club ford, and formula ford. The motor and trans are good and were run at a test day 4 weeks ago, the chassis itself has been sitting for ~30 years. So trade one project for another but this one is much easier to wrap my head around. Hoping to push a bit and get it done for the November 50th anniversary of Formula Ford at Road Atlanta.
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Apr 26, 2019 23:43
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Just throwing this out there, I might happen to have a couple bins of Mk9/Webster gears kicking around.
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Apr 27, 2019 00:13
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You have all of the cool toys 
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Apr 27, 2019 00:21
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mekilljoydammit posted:Just throwing this out there, I might happen to have a couple bins of Mk9/Webster gears kicking around. Are you sure you don't have a couple full Formula Fords in the barn? I got a generic gear set that will work at most tracks around me but once I start getting used to the car and start hitting more tracks I'll start stocking up on gears.
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Apr 27, 2019 09:26
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NitroSpazzz posted:Are you sure you don't have a couple full Formula Fords in the barn? I got a generic gear set that will work at most tracks around me but once I start getting used to the car and start hitting more tracks I'll start stocking up on gears. Serious answer? We have about 1/4 of a Formula Mazda (we basically bought it for the clutch and flywheel at the price it went at) and most of an '84 Van Diemen Formula Continental that someone did a hackjob converting to bike engine.
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Apr 27, 2019 13:24
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Bidding on a 84 Reynard FC got me into this whole mess, one thing lead to another and here we are. As I started disassembly last night I remembered a month ago when I decided 'I'm going to buy something turn key'. Taking a ton of photos as I take things apart so once I start a thread I should have a good photo dump ready. Despite sitting for ~30 years things look pretty good and most of the rod ends would be usable but I'll probably replace them anyway. Working on finding a local shop to media blast everything once I have it torn down. Dad called last night and had me give him a Formula Ford overview so now he's shopping as well. He's aiming to find another 342 so we can share spares and everything.
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Apr 28, 2019 10:33
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Lola 342? Nice. Lola of that era was good at building customer cars so there shouldn't be any bizarre poo poo.
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Apr 28, 2019 13:52
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Formula Fords are so fun. I am super jealous right now.
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Apr 28, 2019 16:58
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Nothing too odd and so much of the stuff is common/interchangeable as well as the car full of spares I got. Started tearing down the rear suspension this morning then soaked everything in break-free for further work. Need to figure out the best way to remove a whole poo poo load of rivets with as little damage as possible to everything. Not sure if I'll start a thread before or after I get it down to a bare frame. Tossed the seat mold in it and made vroom vroom noises 
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Apr 28, 2019 17:42
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I read the OP but still have a question on what path I should take. I've autocrossed the past two years and have thought about getting in to track driving. My local PCA chapter has HPDEs at NJMP as well as Pocono raceway, but I'm wondering if that's the best way of going forward? I currently have a 987 Boxster Spyder, which seems like it's probably the wrong thing to use if I want to get in to racing long term. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm pretty much the definition of a weekend racer. I'm not going to be winning Spec Miata anytime soon, so it seems silly to track something that has expensive consumables until I'm too good for Spec Miata (which I'm assuming will be never). That being said, I'd like to dip my toes in the water a bit more before buying a Spec Miata and having my wife threaten to divorce me. What's the best way of doing that? Would getting in to something like Chump Car be ok? Is that a decent path for someone who's just starting out? Is there a way to go out with a group that's looking for another body to fill a seat?
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Apr 28, 2019 19:19
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Do a few track days in your DD to see if you want to pursue it. Barrier of entry is a helmet, some brake pads, and probably some summer tires; roughly a few thousand bucks between stuff and entry fees. Do HPDEs before any W2W stuff. If you decide that this is something that you want to pursue, don't try to do the dual duty thing and pretend that you're being reasonable by making a bunch of compromises by putting 800# springs on the car that gets you to and from work. Buy someone else's project for pennies on the dollar and not spend half of Sunday's sessions wondering if you're going to be able to make it into the office on Monday.
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Apr 28, 2019 20:21
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NitroSpazzz posted:Nothing too odd and so much of the stuff is common/interchangeable as well as the car full of spares I got. Started tearing down the rear suspension this morning then soaked everything in break-free for further work. Need to figure out the best way to remove a whole poo poo load of rivets with as little damage as possible to everything. Not sure if I'll start a thread before or after I get it down to a bare frame. My wife got a rivet removal tool that works pretty well for not walking off the heads.
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Apr 28, 2019 20:46
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Phone posted:Do a few track days in your DD to see if you want to pursue it. Barrier of entry is a helmet, some brake pads, and probably some summer tires; roughly a few thousand bucks between stuff and entry fees. Do HPDEs before any W2W stuff. This. HPDE will give you foundational track driving skills for any kind of W2W you decide to pursue later. The Spyder is a great car* to dip your toes in to the sport, don't go out and buy a race car until you're sure you know what kind of racing you want to do. * Just make sure you know the rules about open top cars for the group you sign up with. The Spyder's fixed roll hoops should be fine for most; but some groups just don't want open top cars at all.
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Apr 29, 2019 02:59
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Residency Evil posted:I read the OP but still have a question on what path I should take. I've autocrossed the past two years and have thought about getting in to track driving. My local PCA chapter has HPDEs at NJMP as well as Pocono raceway, but I'm wondering if that's the best way of going forward? I currently have a 987 Boxster Spyder, which seems like it's probably the wrong thing to use if I want to get in to racing long term. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm pretty much the definition of a weekend racer. I'm not going to be winning Spec Miata anytime soon, so it seems silly to track something that has expensive consumables until I'm too good for Spec Miata (which I'm assuming will be never). +1 for hpde. Option 2 would be finding a shop that does rentals. Expensive but they bring the prepped car and you just have to show up. Option 3 would be a school. Similar to option 2. Skip Barber and the mid Ohio school are a couple examples.
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Apr 29, 2019 12:10
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Phone posted:If you decide that this is something that you want to pursue, don't try to do the dual duty thing and pretend that you're being reasonable by making a bunch of compromises by putting 800# springs on the car that gets you to and from work. Buy someone else's project for pennies on the dollar and not spend half of Sunday's sessions wondering if you're going to be able to make it into the office on Monday. Haha I take it you learned this from experience. Took me a while too.
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Apr 29, 2019 14:23
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User Error posted:Haha I take it you learned this from experience. Took me a while too. The closest I got to it was driving 3 hours home from the track and the tachometer stopped working and then the needle got picked up by the magnet during a power surge and wound up sitting well past 8K rpm because the alternator had stopped charging the battery hours ago. I barely made it home, but I had the Mazda2 as a DD so I went to sleep and that got dealt with 2 weeks later. I sold the NA for 4K including everything minus the 6 speed I bought from Muffinpox. Hans, suit, shoes were included.
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Apr 29, 2019 18:50
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honda whisperer posted:+1 for hpde. Highly recommend Skip Barber although I did their racing school before they changed hands. Driving their open-wheel cars for three days is what kickstarted the Z build. So actually, I don’t recommend this at all.
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Apr 29, 2019 19:16
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Phone posted:The closest I got to it was driving 3 hours home from the track and the tachometer stopped working and then the needle got picked up by the magnet during a power surge and wound up sitting well past 8K rpm because the alternator had stopped charging the battery hours ago. I barely made it home, but I had the Mazda2 as a DD so I went to sleep and that got dealt with 2 weeks later. I drove 3 hours to a track day and money shifted my miata. The flywheel bolts came loose (I had just done the clutch recently but used a torque wrench, not sure if I used loctite on the bolts but probably not in hindsight) and it sounded properly hosed on decel. I still made it home and later when test driving it to try and diagnose what the noise was it got stuck in gear about a block from my apartment. The ring gear started machining the bell housing and the clutch fingers hosed the input shaft. And all the bolt holes in the crank were hogged out, so I had to replace the block, flywheel, clutch, and trans. Probably could have gotten away with just swapping the damaged stuff (crank, flywheel, clutch, input shaft/bearings) but miata parts are cheap.  Luckily I had another car but it was still a pain in the rear end. Have a backup car.
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Apr 29, 2019 19:30
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 This was my clutch after a day at VIR. Drove it home.
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Apr 30, 2019 19:48
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And the flywheel / pressure plate faces?
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Apr 30, 2019 19:57
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Don't remember, but I'd guess unremarkable.
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Apr 30, 2019 20:25
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