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spwrozek posted:I think my buddy with huge feet is in some sort of scarpa. Asking him, let you know. my feet arent quite that big but i literally could not stretch a 45 force V on my feet if my life depended on it. i know at some point im gonna have to toughen up and probably just wear something small, but the majority of 45s i tried on were the same story
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May 2, 2019 09:52
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I hear you there. Fairly positive he just deals with it best he can.
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May 2, 2019 12:58
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Getting to the last move over and over and not being able to figure it out sucks rear end!!!
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May 3, 2019 01:33
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Hot Diggity! posted:Getting to the last move over and over and not being able to figure it out sucks rear end!!! I can do all of the V2's in my gym except for one. It's just got a massive over hang and I have to really pull myself up with my right (non-dominant arm). I've been stuck on it for like 3 weeks and it's driving me nuts. I know I can do it, I just need to be a little stronger. It's a very easy problem to figure out... I just can't reach it. They're all big jug holds, but yea. Made a little progress on a V3 that I've been stuck on for equally as long yesterday though, so that felt really good. The holds are much harder and there's a lot of foot work to this one, it's a good challenge and I was really psyched to get a hold or two higher than before. Are there are any goons central Massachusetts? I'll be out that way from Thu - Mon this week, was thinking of going to Central Rock in Worcester on Friday maybe.
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May 6, 2019 14:06
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Sab669 posted:I can do all of the V2's in my gym except for one. It's just got a massive over hang and I have to really pull myself up with my right (non-dominant arm). I've been stuck on it for like 3 weeks and it's driving me nuts. I know I can do it, I just need to be a little stronger. It's a very easy problem to figure out... I just can't reach it. They're all big jug holds, but yea. Is there any chance the setter is trying to force a figure 4? Baronash fucked around with this message at 14:38 on May 6, 2019 |
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May 6, 2019 14:31
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I don't know what that means
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May 6, 2019 14:33
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Sab669 posted:I don't know what that means  Basically this, you wrap your leg over one arm and use that positioning to reach higher while staying static. It's mostly an ice climbing technique, but it can occasionally be useful on overhung routes where you're moving off of a bomber hold.
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May 6, 2019 14:38
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Baronash posted:Is there any chance the setter is trying to force a figure 4? Seems extremely unlikely if it is a v2.
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May 6, 2019 14:39
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 this hurts my head just looking at it.But no, I've watched a few people do this wall and it is extremely straight forward. I'm just a sedentary baby who has only casually done yoga and walk my dog prior to the gym opening last month. ~25% BMI so while I'm not huge I'm definitely carrying a little extra weight, that's all it is. I'll try and take a picture of it this week if I can find the time to go again.
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May 6, 2019 14:42
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Sab669 posted:I can do all of the V2's in my gym except for one. It's just got a massive over hang and I have to really pull myself up with my right (non-dominant arm). I've been stuck on it for like 3 weeks and it's driving me nuts. I know I can do it, I just need to be a little stronger. It's a very easy problem to figure out... I just can't reach it. They're all big jug holds, but yea. May be you need to work on your technique or figure out a different foot/angle to reach it. Outside edge with a foot smear and a body twist that forces your hip to the wall will give you a lot of reach and probably doesn’t require that much more power. Did you watch the climbing masterclass series on YouTube? It helped me tremendously
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May 6, 2019 18:17
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Colliwog is right, probably 90%+ of problems that on the surface may seem to be just about an explosive reach can be done statically with proper body positioning and moderate-to-low use of strength. If you're a guy, hip flexibility is likely a bigger weakness at this point.
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May 6, 2019 18:27
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Haven't heard of it, but I just added it to my "Watch Later" list for when I'm not at work  It very well could be a matter of technique; there's a fair few footholds on this problem so maybe I'm just not approaching it correctly - but I'm reasonably confident it's just a matter of strength. Unfortunately they don't have a good photo of this problem on their facebook, so this is the best I can share now:  Start with the green holds at the bottom, work your way left, then up and to the right. I can comfortably get my right hand on the large green jug I've circled in purple. There are 2 additional holds just above that one that I've seen people do this problem with and without. I can't get my left arm up high enough to reach the hold I've circled in red. I know it's virtually impossible to make out the colors of the holds in this photo so it probably doesn't give you guys a good sense of what I might be doing wrong or where I should be putting my feet instead. I think I usually get my feet on the holds near that upper pink volume. Yea I am male, so flexibility (or lack there of) probably plays into it. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 18:32 on May 6, 2019 |
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May 6, 2019 18:29
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A twist lock should get you the reach and stability to get your left hand on those jugs
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May 6, 2019 19:40
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 Much better & higher res photo that I took tonight, but now it doesn't matter because I finally did it!! ahhh gently caress you boulder you're not better than me!!! Really shocked I managed to do it because I was there for 90 minutes yesterday so I was feeling pretty sore today. edit; haaa just in time too. They just posted on facebook that they reset the problems today. A few pages back there was a lot of talk about Climbing & "Sadbrains" which I definitely suffer from but I had a stupid smile on my face for a while last night after finishing that problem so that was cool. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 21:08 on May 7, 2019 |
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May 7, 2019 02:07
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I think I *got* sport climbing this weekend. I've come from a trad background so I've always climbed sport routes onsight and never really looked at anything past 6b. This weekend a friend talked me through a 7a and I surprised myself by getting all the moves on top rope with a couple of rests. The crux sequence seems to have written itself on the front of my brain and I find myself strangely compelled to return to the route. Project mode engaged!
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May 7, 2019 21:24
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Partial Octopus posted:Get the green for sure. Red is definitely too easy unless you're recovering from something serious. Update: Ordered the green which came in last week. Used it daily and then gave climbing another try on Friday. It works! I had some elbow pain but nowhere near as bad as the week prior. I went climbing yesterday as well with some pain, but it’s getting better. Managed to get half way up a 5.11 until my arms gave out. I’m happy with the progress I’ve been making. Bouldering I’m almost consistent with all V3s and top rope I can do 5.10s without issue. At this point I’m mostly excited by the idea of climbing without golfer’s elbow trouble
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May 8, 2019 21:45
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How long did shipping take for you? I placed an order on the 28th and still don't even have a shipping number. Should call them, now that I've realized it's been that long 
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May 8, 2019 22:17
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Macnult posted:Update: Ordered the green which came in last week. Used it daily and then gave climbing another try on Friday. It works! I had some elbow pain but nowhere near as bad as the week prior. I went climbing yesterday as well with some pain, but it’s getting better. Managed to get half way up a 5.11 until my arms gave out. Just some advice, don't be an idiot like me and stop using it when the symptoms go away. They will come back if you don't keep strengthening those muscles for awhile. I stopped after 2 weeks thinking I'd be good and now I'm having issues again and have to start the process all over 
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May 8, 2019 22:43
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The tennis elbow exercise with the flexbar thing is fine for me, but I feel like I can’t do the golfer’s elbow one right (with your off-elbow way up in the air). The end I’m gripping turns in my hand and rubs the poo poo out of my palm, and then I don’t have my wrist at a great angle to actually stretch my elbow out. I watched some videos, idk what is going on there.
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May 9, 2019 02:00
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Mons Hubris posted:The tennis elbow exercise with the flexbar thing is fine for me, but I feel like I can’t do the golfer’s elbow one right (with your off-elbow way up in the air). The end I’m gripping turns in my hand and rubs the poo poo out of my palm, and then I don’t have my wrist at a great angle to actually stretch my elbow out. I watched some videos, idk what is going on there. This is what you should be doing for golfer's elbow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P-QOaCoDWY
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May 9, 2019 14:15
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Sab669 posted:Much better & higher res photo that I took tonight, but now it doesn't matter because I finally did it!! ahhh gently caress you boulder you're not better than me!!! Really shocked I managed to do it because I was there for 90 minutes yesterday so I was feeling pretty sore today. Is that a CRG? Looks like one of their walls but I don't recognize the feature. Congrats on the send.
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May 9, 2019 15:31
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Caf posted:Is that a CRG? Looks like one of their walls but I don't recognize the feature. Central Rock Buffalo, yea. It just opened less than a month ago.
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May 9, 2019 15:49
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I need to replace my Vapor Vs, but the new generation has a stiffer sole and are now 100% synthetic, which are steps in the wrong direction. Are there are any shoes with a similar large toebox that are leather and relatively soft? I got some Otakis which have a really good fit for me but the sole is way too firm.
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May 9, 2019 18:00
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Kasumeat posted:I need to replace my Vapor Vs, but the new generation has a stiffer sole and are now 100% synthetic, which are steps in the wrong direction. Are there are any shoes with a similar large toebox that are leather and relatively soft? I got some Otakis which have a really good fit for me but the sole is way too firm. Im strongly considering buying a pair of the new ones based on fit alone. What's the issue with a fully synthetic shoe? You can also still definitely find the old version around the web.
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May 9, 2019 20:44
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AriTheDog posted:Im strongly considering buying a pair of the new ones based on fit alone. What's the issue with a fully synthetic shoe? You can also still definitely find the old version around the web. They smell like poo poo and wear much more quickly
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May 9, 2019 21:56
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Kasumeat posted:They smell like poo poo and wear much more quickly I’m trying to think of any leather/synthetic part on any of my shoes that has a noticeable amount of wear and I’m coming up blank. What section of your shoe is getting worn?
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May 10, 2019 01:03
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I'll be taking a new leader outside soon and teaching her all the skills for sport. In the past I've taught how to rap after cleaning, but my thinking has evolved on the subject and maybe it's more appropriate - at least in the beginning? - to assume appropriate anchors for lowering and prioritize that. We will be climbing in Clear Creek which is very well maintained. I don't think I've ever had to rap there. What is the current status of the lower vs. rap slap fight?
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May 10, 2019 13:58
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Happiness Commando posted:I'll be taking a new leader outside soon and teaching her all the skills for sport. In the past I've taught how to rap after cleaning, but my thinking has evolved on the subject and maybe it's more appropriate - at least in the beginning? - to assume appropriate anchors for lowering and prioritize that. We will be climbing in Clear Creek which is very well maintained. I don't think I've ever had to rap there. Lower.
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May 10, 2019 14:05
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Happiness Commando posted:I'll be taking a new leader outside soon and teaching her all the skills for sport. In the past I've taught how to rap after cleaning, but my thinking has evolved on the subject and maybe it's more appropriate - at least in the beginning? - to assume appropriate anchors for lowering and prioritize that. We will be climbing in Clear Creek which is very well maintained. I don't think I've ever had to rap there. Lower, but teach her to rap anyway because it's a good process to know all the steps for and why they exist.
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May 10, 2019 14:27
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Happiness Commando posted:What is the current status of the lower vs. rap slap fight? If everyone rapped I would put up something cheaper, like quick links. My pet peeve is that people have started calling the steel rings rapp rings here in Sweden. What a loving misnomer.
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May 10, 2019 14:56
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Lower but you should teach them to rap. I like the 5.7 at River wall for reaching cleaning or climb the 5.4 at Safari. Both have big ledges, delay the person up and watch them right up close.
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May 10, 2019 15:02
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everyone should know how to rap but i cant imagine rapping every route when im cragging.
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May 10, 2019 20:39
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So I feel like I've been plateauing for a month or so now at V4 5.11b. Am I at the point where I'm going to have to do climbing specific workouts to progress more or can I still see good progression just from climbing 3x a week but at a slower rate?
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May 11, 2019 22:42
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You should be able to climb 12a without really training. When you go to the gym you need to climb hard though. I am just getting back after 5 months off with the broken collar bone but when I was in shape here was my gym routine, all on lead. 5.10 a/b, 5.10b/c, 5.11a, 5.11c, 5.11d or higher 5x, 5.11a. then maybe go limit Boulder for a bit. Doing that I was able to outside on sight up to 11b/c and get up most stuff to 12b, send if I worked it a few times.
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May 11, 2019 22:54
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Soooo, I’m definitely sticking with that climbing thing. I’ve been going for about two months and can currently do all v4s at my gym and can get the odd v5. The thing is that I want to keep progressing, but I also enjoy weightlifting and want to keep doing that too. Due to kids I cannot really do anything on the weekends (other than some cardio, yoga or very basic stuff). This summer I will have all weekdays off. Is there ressources to help me juggle barbell training alongside bouldering? I’d like to Boulder 4 days (obviously not going hard every time) and hit the weights 2 or 3 times. E: currently boulder 3x a week and weightlifting 3-4x + a bunch of yoga and odd cardio session. I’m not feeling overtrained yet, but I’m guessing getting better at bouldering will stress my CNS more KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 00:37 on May 12, 2019 |
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May 12, 2019 00:35
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spwrozek posted:You should be able to climb 12a without really training. When you go to the gym you need to climb hard though. I am just getting back after 5 months off with the broken collar bone but when I was in shape here was my gym routine, all on lead. 5.10 a/b, 5.10b/c, 5.11a, 5.11c, 5.11d or higher 5x, 5.11a. then maybe go limit Boulder for a bit. Doing that I was able to outside on sight up to 11b/c and get up most stuff to 12b, send if I worked it a few times. I'd like this to be true, but for me it is not true. If I want to climb 5.12 I need to specifically train. I've plateaued at 5.11d in the past and punched my way up to 5.12a/b by adding hangboard training and losing 5 or 10 pounds, but it's hard for me to stay there. For reference, I'm 5'11" 160lbs, and typically climb 3 days a week, swapping leads for 2 or 3 hours. I think your non-trained plateau will depend on what you spend the rest of your time doing (sitting at a desk in my case). 5.12 is generally attainable by anyone reasonably young (50 is still young enough, not that I'm 50) in good shape who puts the time and effort in. "Time and effort" will vary from person to person though.
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May 12, 2019 02:05
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5.12 is the new 5.10
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May 12, 2019 02:34
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KingColliwog posted:Soooo, I’m definitely sticking with that climbing thing. I’ve been going for about two months and can currently do all v4s at my gym and can get the odd v5. Everyone is different. But I definitely plateaued in my climbing after I started cross-training (running, in my case). Once I stopped, and focused on climbing again, I got over the plateau. Right now the only non-climbing exercise I do is train "push" muscles in the gym. I try to do bench presses/shoulder presses/dips twice a week. I also stretch at home in-between breaks from work, but I don't really consider that exercise.
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May 12, 2019 02:38
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enraged_camel posted:Everyone is different. But I definitely plateaued in my climbing after I started cross-training (running, in my case). Once I stopped, and focused on climbing again, I got over the plateau. i forgot to thank you but this was good advice
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May 12, 2019 12:33
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KingColliwog posted:Soooo, I’m definitely sticking with that climbing thing. I’ve been going for about two months and can currently do all v4s at my gym and can get the odd v5. I can't tell you how much this frustrates me.
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May 12, 2019 14:46
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