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Night Danger Moose posted:Got a wheel fixed that I curbed badly. 3 hours and $125 later it looks brand new. What did you do to fix it, or is this a service shops offer? I've got some curbing I'd like to get cleaned up.
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May 12, 2019 05:45
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Night Danger Moose posted:Got a wheel fixed that I curbed badly. 3 hours and $125 later it looks brand new. I love this color on rims. Know what it's called by any chance?
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May 12, 2019 10:31
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Dadliest Worrier posted:What did you do to fix it, or is this a service shops offer? I've got some curbing I'd like to get cleaned up. It was done by Rim Doctors in Glen Burnie MD. There are a lot of wheel restoration shops everywhere, I'm sure theres one close by you. MrOnBicycle posted:I love this color on rims. Know what it's called by any chance?
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May 12, 2019 13:48
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Night Danger Moose posted:It was done by Rim Doctors in Glen Burnie MD. There are a lot of wheel restoration shops everywhere, I'm sure theres one close by you. I'm doing some car projects, I'm half tempted to build my own oven big enough for wheels and start powder coating myself. Finding open air elements that will do the job has been my biggest hangup. I've thought about building it in a corner of my garage.
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May 12, 2019 14:31
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got it on the road. going to put some miles on it so the Holley Terminator X can do all the learning it needs and then taking it down to cruiseweek next weekend in ocean city maryland. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsDA6UzG8Xs 
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May 12, 2019 16:41
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I'm slowly chipping away at removing stuff that's preventing me from pulling the transaxle out of my zx2. Last week I zorro'ed the spindle nut off one of the halfshafts because even a breaker bar + a big metal tube wasnt enough torque to get it loose. Today I partially removed the starter motor from the bellhousing, dont have any pics of that.  gonna use this eventually 
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May 14, 2019 01:48
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Me and my wife put a valve cover gasket on my CR-V. Only to find out the hamfist who owned it before cracked the corner off. Which makes sense for the leak it had. She did it herself with slight guidance from.me.
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May 14, 2019 02:18
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Went looking for a stranded body filler, but they had a giant can of regular for essentially the same price so I went with that instead. Now I'll be into even more filler trouble. It's real nice working with a supply that hasn't been sitting in a garage for 10 years. Now that I'm not scraping the bottom of the barrel on my tiny can I did get started on the grill mod:  original donor looked like this: 
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May 14, 2019 13:32
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Pulled some more stuff around the transaxle. Found someone else's 10mm socket     there's enough room to get a picture of the mystery hole in the top of the bellhousing now    something definitely happened in there
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May 15, 2019 01:25
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Also my guess at what the square thing you can see inside there is that it could be the corner of one of the three things where the thickness changes
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May 15, 2019 01:48
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Looks like maybe something came loose or got inside, and it got squeezed between the flywheel and the bell housing. And out.
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May 15, 2019 04:41
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Someday STR is gonna get a gently used Prius and have a stroke when things don't break constantly.
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May 15, 2019 06:03
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Built a new exhaust for the Rocky, now its 2.25" from the cat back with 2 bolt flanges and using all the factory hangers. I also put in 75% of the Superpro bushing kit for the rear leafs, I did all the shackle bushings and it definitely feels tighter, much better than the bonus rear steering feature. I also made some really light lift shackles, it only ends up being an half an inch higher at most, just to make sure that its levelled out when loaded. I pulled the rear seats out, and am putting in a 12V fridge on a slideout, a water tank, and some storage all Australian touring style. I have a battery isolator, 150A breaker, and 4ga welding cable with an "emergency" bypass with a 1-2 battery combiner switch. Next step is a larger alternator, 50A isn't much when you have a 100Ah auxiliary battery and a winch. edit: Also in the past year I put in air conditioning, power steering, and went through the front suspension. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 07:35 on May 15, 2019 |
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May 15, 2019 07:29
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 New door handles from the amazingly high tech pick-a-part. Enter make/model/year on the website and you get GPS coordinates. Checkin on facebook and they waive the $2 entry fee. Exterior dood handle was $9.24, same for interior. Prices are listed on the web so no haggling. This was by far the beat pick-a-part experience I have ever had. I mean look at this: 
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May 15, 2019 09:51
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MC Hawking posted:Someday STR is gonna get a gently used Prius and have a stroke when things don't break constantly. Almost bought a Prius off a friend for $2500. Then the $2500 master cylinder/ABS module/brake accumulator issue struck, which also disables regenerative braking. Dodged a bullet there.  It's also telling light knock knock jokes, but it's been doing that since about 200k. It has >300k now. Serious talk though, I'm trying to find a regular job that doesn't require driving all day. I have an interview for overnight randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:53 on May 15, 2019 |
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May 15, 2019 11:49
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From a few days ago: I didn't get pics from most of what I've done to the Element, but here is the second ball joint. I don't have an appropriate ball joint separator to get these apart, the ball joint press wasn't quite big enough to fit over the knuckle and control arm, and the pickle fork just couldn't get the job done. The solution was to cut the ball joint apart with a saw-z-all:  That gave me enough clearance to pop out the shaft from the control arm with the ball joint press. That final pop when it lets go is such a satisfying feeling.  I did cut a little bit of the bolt off before pressing it out, I found with the hole for the pin the bolt would deform before it let go.  Here is the upper part of the ball joint, it was so worn I could easily flip it around without much pressure from my finger.  After that, new ball joint pressed in and bolted back together, both new rear lower control arm bushings pressed in, cam bolts installed, ABS sensor popped back in, and the final step: putting on new spindle nuts front and back. We'll take it in for a proper alignment (mostly I'm worried about the rear) but a quick test drive and everything felt fine. Which means we have a functional daily driver again! Next steps: new sway bar bushings, front and rear sway bar links, and shocks and struts for the Saab, install new shocks and struts in the BMW (after it gets back from the dealership to address the whole blower motor wiring catching on fire thing), check out the Dakota to see how bad the front wheel bearings are (they are bad I'm sure). Of course this means it was an appropriate time to add a new member to the family:  1988 4Runner 22RE 5MT, 194,000 miles young (engine rebuilt 85,000 miles ago).
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May 15, 2019 14:04
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 I had a chance to buy an 86 4Runner (22RE EFI, 5MT) several years ago, in that sexy bluish-gray color they had. Mechanically it was basically new (rebuilt engine, new clutch, rebuilt transfer case, new master cylinder, new AC system), body was perfect on top with bed liner on the lower half, interior was decent, and the seller said it wasn't a trailer queen at all (they took it off road plenty, just took care of it). It's been almost 10 years and I'm still kicking myself for not jumping on it sooner; someone bought it out from under me when I couldn't make up my mind. I'd still be driving it today if I'd nabbed it. I'm pretty sure the cap was painted to match instead of unpainted, and different wheels (I wanna say chrome soft 8's?), but otherwise pretty similar. I would do naughty things to get ahold of one today, and sell my soul to get a 22RTE version (even though parts are unobtainium). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:21 on May 15, 2019 |
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May 15, 2019 14:16
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Replaced the lovely rears 6x9 speaker-and-a-head-unit-in-one-package-for-$99 speakers in the civic with a pair of Pioneer TS-A6970F 5 Ways. I'll eventually hook up my 2ch amp and drive them properly (Seeing as they want/handle 100w RMS), but for now, they sound much better, but are slightly overpowering the fronts. The 10" sub is firing, but man it hits a lot lighter than I remember when it was installed my WRX.
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May 15, 2019 15:45
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brand engager posted:Pulled some more stuff around the transaxle. Found someone else's 10mm socket So you were the one that stole it from me. You effing SOB. BTW, was it a 6 point 3/8?
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May 15, 2019 15:52
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C-Bangin' it
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toplitzin posted:Replaced the lovely rears 6x9 speaker-and-a-head-unit-in-one-package-for-$99 speakers in the civic with a pair of Pioneer TS-A6970F 5 Ways. Could be pointed the wrong way, cancelling itself. I originally install the sub in the trunk of my Crown Vic facing up. Discovered that it sounded better with the trunk open, and realized I had it canceling part of it's output with the reflected wave from the back of the trunk. Mounted it facing backward - then the reflected wave helps reinforce output. Move it around a bit if you can, and see how it sounds. The "transfer function" in a car is a real thing at bass frequencies.
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May 15, 2019 16:12
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Wouldn't it be easier to just swap the + and - wires?MC Hawking posted:Someday STR is gonna get a gently used Prius and have a stroke when things don't break constantly. Speaking of...  Car died pulling out of a parking space. Started right back up, but the money light was on. Throwing a MAF out of range code. The MAF is 3 months old and OEM. 
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May 15, 2019 16:18
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STR posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just swap the + and - wires? No, because then it will out of phase with the rest of the car and *still* cancel itself. “Standing waves” is the problem. The reflected wave is out of phase with the original wave and cancels it. Apparently, my trunk was the right size to cancel the freqs I wanted to keep. When I had that same woofer in a temporary box just plopped in the right rear of the trunk well, it was fine. Made a box that fit under the package shelf, and put that up on the left front of the trunk, and bass went poof. Well, a lot of it did, anyway. Same box, with the woofer firing towards the rear of the car, and all is well again. I actually had to cut a new hole and remount the woofer, and seal off the old opening, because the box is contoured for the space. And move the amp, since it was mounted to where the woofer moved. I’m really surprised at how well that old JL 10” is holding up. It’s literally 25-30 years old. It sat unused under my workbench for over a decade. I wish I had a matching one - the car really needs 2, for when I’m in a “crank it” mood.
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May 15, 2019 17:05
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STR posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just swap the + and - wires? Possible that it's not the cause of the issue if it's not still active. During a stall the air meter can see some really funky readings that may trip it out of range.
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May 15, 2019 18:06
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True, I just have no idea what caused the stall. It's a little prone to stalling when the engine is cold (not as much with the new throttle body), but it was fully warm, and had only been parked a few minutes. I cranked the steering wheel right before it died, I wonder if the alternator just bogged it down too much? (electric PS w/130 amp alternator) And yeah, I cleared it, hasn't come back. First time the CEL has popped since I replaced the throttle body. 
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May 16, 2019 01:26
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I'd rack it up to one of those mystery moments. Is there a learning cycle involved?
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May 16, 2019 17:32
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Got my old man's car cut and buffed, got the bumper and emblems back on it. Did an oil change, and he's good to terrorize the streets again. Going to give it a good detail for him this afternoon.
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May 16, 2019 18:45
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Night Danger Moose posted:Got a wheel fixed that I curbed badly. 3 hours and $125 later it looks brand new. You get any kind of discounts or kickbacks for referrals? I got a buddy who hosed 2 of the factory wheels on his WRX.
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May 16, 2019 23:19
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Had a free night so I was able to get around to replacing the struts and shocks in the 2005 Saab 9-3 Linear sedan. It had the original shocks but only recently hit 95,000 miles, however, it was feeling both harsh and floaty and there was a noticeable knock and rattle when going over bumps and quick turns. Time to replace the OEM Saab shocks/struts with some Bilstein B4's. Expecting the worst, I order front and rear sway bar bushings and end links. The old end links were hosed, definitely loose and rattling around:  On the plus side, the front sway bar bushings were fine, which is nice, because they are on top of the subframe and kind of a pain in the rear end to reach.  Brake line unclipped, ABS sensor cable bracket unbolted, and strut mounts unbolted from knuckle:  I didn't have the fancy sockets built for torquing down strut nuts with an Allen wrench in place to hold the strut in place, so I ground a couple of flat spots in a 7/8" socket so I could grip it better. It ended up working fine and was certainly a lot cheaper than buying whatever specialized socket does the job. Shiny new bolts and strut mount:  All back together with the purdy B4 and shiny new sway bar end link:  I checked out the rear and both the sway bar bushings and end links were in perfect shape. I didn't get pictures, but the design of how they mount the shocks in the rear is genius. It took me about 10 minutes to replace the rear shocks once the car was jacked up and wheels off. No digging through the trunk, pulling back the lining to reach the mounts, everything was mounted in the wheel well. A test drive and all rattles and floaty ride are gone.
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May 17, 2019 02:15
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STR posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just swap the + and - wires? I'd rest my case on this particular hill but I can't help myself. Keep an eye on Craigslist. The owner sellers are stepping up to the $5 fee and seem legitimately motivated. There were a bunch of Priuses last week in the $4500 range that would be a treat for your lifestyle. What's the alternative, keep a dying GM product alive far past it's expiration date? Edit: alternatively there's a 2006 Mazda speed 6 grand touring up in Round Rock that's screaming for your grubby mits.. MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 05:45 on May 17, 2019 |
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May 17, 2019 05:36
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Ol' Land Cruiser was pissing diesel fuel out of the bottom of the injection pump yesterday. Looked closer and it was coming from this odd spring thing with coolant lines running to it. Turns out that the Toyota HD engine, when shoved into JDM 80 series Land Cruisers, comes equiped with ACSD, this heat-driven wax thing that changes cold idle on the injection pump. Rolling up my sleeves I dive in the internet to figure out how to fix it. Turns out you don't fix it, you remove it. Specifically in my case the ACSD had failed in such a way that the bolt that goes through the wax that controls the spring tension had lost it's seal. Means that, when cold, diesel seeps through and shoots out the end of the bolt. Bad! Solution is to jack up the passenger side (JDM so left side), jack stand it, remove the tire, remove the plastic cover that keeps major mud out of your engine, remove the coolant lines that go into the ACSD and join them directly together using a 3/8s joiner (some people tie in heaters if needed off these lines), remove the ACSD mechanism itself (and catch the 2 cups or so of diesel that falls out) and make sure the o-ring is still good. Then, you take your bought Denso or Bosch blocking plate or, like me, you make your own because trying to find those parts in the USA is lol. 3/16 steel plate, cut to shape, make sure it's flat with how it seals, bolt it down using the two shorter bolts that used to hold on the ACSD. Snug it up, use the hand pump on top of the filter to replace that diesel that leaked out, start it up and see if you got any more leaks.   My ACSD mechanism worked liked it should so there was no change with how the truck runs, just now it doesn't squirt diesel when cold. The internet being what it is has people claiming that removing the ACSD is one of the most important things you can do and my uncle's brother's daughter's son left his ACSD on his rig and he went bald, died and the pin sheered off and killed the truck too. I'm just glad it isn't leaking anymore.
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May 17, 2019 06:48
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MC Hawking posted:I'd rest my case on this particular hill but I can't help myself. Oh trust me, I'm looking, I just don't have the cash on hand. A Prius would be the perfect car for what I do, but they're just so loving BORING - I really prefer something with 3 pedals. And I'm a bit gunshy on a Prius thanks to the $2500 master cylinder thing (everyone I know with a Prius has been bit by it). OTOH, the CVT Toyota uses on their hybrids is the only CVT I actually trust. Also, I'm trying to get into another line of work - ANYTHING besides this. I've been driving for a living, off and on, for almost 20 years now. A Mazdaspeed 6 would be fun as hell, but I wouldn't want to put one of those through courier duty. In particular, I think the constant shutting off/restarting would be hard on the turbo (are they water cooled or oil cooled on those?). Carvana has something that actually caught my eye - a 2012 Jetta TDI 6 speed. But... VAG electrical. And I'd need to buy a chunk of new tools to do my own work. I THINK they have a water cooled turbo, and they get mileage similar to an older Prius? And they quoted  APR on financing, since I don't have $9k sitting around. I already checked with my bank, they wouldn't tell me why they wouldn't finance me on the phone, but sent a letter saying they couldn't do it because I "could not verify my identity" over the phone every time they talked to me (.... wut? and they closed all of their brick & mortar branches here...)I'm supposed to be getting mom's Avalon somewhat soon (next few months), but that won't be a long-term solution if I keep driving for a living. It's a hell of a comfy car, it's in really good shape (aside from evap issues, nothing that can't be fixed with a smoke test), but the MPG will get pretty painful. It's also getting up there in miles - both the Avalon and my car are sitting at 175k. The upside is she's the original owner of the Avalon; full maintenance history, much of it hamfisted by me, new AC condenser a couple of years ago, comes with a new Denso radiator (the original is weeping). Steering rack leaks a little (and has for almost 10 years), but it only needs to be topped off about once a year. Also has new shocks/struts all the way around (KYB), a new timing belt (OEM), and new front LCAs (aftermarket - bushings were done, balljoints were worn). It's a 1MZ-FE with the 4 speed Aisin transaxle, so it's got plenty of life left in it (so long as you ignore the minute or so of blue smoke on a cold start). And I thought part of GM ownership was turning them into cockroaches? They keep limping along for way longer than you think they ever could, they piss and poo poo everywhere, but they won't die until you least expect it. To be totally honest, I wouldn't mind an OG Saturn (preferably a last-year SC2); they were nimble and handled well, and the Ion coupe (what I have) is very similar to them visually. Too bad the engines they used were so prone to burning oil. But finding one in good shape is impossible, and it would also disqualify me from at least one of my driving gigs (too old; the avalon may disqualify me from one due to its age too, but it's one I pretty much never touch anymore). Colostomy Bag posted:I'd rack it up to one of those mystery moments. Not that I know of, outside of key on/engine off and slowly pressing the throttle to the floor, then slowly releasing it. When I swapped the throttle body, it was plug and play (I unplugged the PCM when I did it, since it's right there under the hood, and easier than disconnecting the battery), and did that key on/engine off thing - the only issue I had is when I first started it, I had a ~1500 RPM idle, but the coolant temp gauge also went to "warm" when I started [since the engine was fully warm when I started it, and it took all of 10 minutes to swap], then dropped to cold almost instantly, and threw a CEL for the ECT sensor (wiggling the harness around the TB "fixed" it - the idle went to normal immediately after that, and the temp gauge popped back up to normal). When I swapped the MAF, all I did was swap it. It's been a few months since I did them, and it's been running fine (I think I've put about 10k miles on it since doing those). Obviously there's probably a harness issue or a loose connection at the ECT. Most DBW GMs do require a learning procedure for the throttle body, it seems like the L61 is one of the few exceptions. It may help that I used a junkyard throttle body off of the same year/make/model car with the same engine.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:33 on May 17, 2019 |
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May 17, 2019 07:22
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Get a CRZ then, they come in manual
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May 17, 2019 07:42
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A bit out of my budget. Also, I need "4 doors" one way or another. The last couple of years of the SC1/SC2 had 4 doors (instead of 3), and my coupe Ion has "4 doors" (they're half doors, but qualifies as a 4 door for one of my gigs most days - depends on how much of an rear end in a top hat the warehouse manager is being that day).
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May 17, 2019 08:53
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Darchangel posted:If you’re interested, I’ll look next time I go to the wrecking yard. For whatever reason, one of my favorite yards almost always has scads of actual P71s. Quite a few parts on mine came from there. What year is yours? I don’t think there’s much difference in that area 98-up, but... 2010, tan interior. It was a small town cop car before I got it, and most sat on the main drag and flagged speeders. 
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May 17, 2019 11:50
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STR posted:A bit out of my budget. Prius is four doors tho? Mazdaspeed 6 is too?
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May 17, 2019 18:21
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MS6 is 4 door but would be HORRIBLE for his line of work.
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May 17, 2019 18:49
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:You get any kind of discounts or kickbacks for referrals? PMed you.
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May 17, 2019 19:16
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STR posted:A bit out of my budget. 8th gen civic si sedan with a flash pro reliable as hell, lsd, >200hp, good mpg
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May 17, 2019 19:23
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EvilBeard posted:Got my old man's car cut and buffed, got the bumper and emblems back on it. Did an oil change, and he's good to terrorize the streets again. Going to give it a good detail for him this afternoon. I *really* need to get on my dad to resurrect his '55. It hasn't run since I was in junior high - and I graduated high school in 1988.
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May 17, 2019 20:22
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BlackMK4 posted:8th gen civic si sedan with a flash pro Yes, but that engine bay is TIGHT
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May 17, 2019 20:41
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