|
What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
|||
|---|---|---|---|
| Perennials! |
|
142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
|
30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
|
62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
|
171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
|
60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
|
31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
|
183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
|
LoreOfSerpents posted:That sounds like a very effective way of spreading it, considering pieces of the stems can become new plants. True, eh, but picturing the walk back to the house now I think I avoided that. That one patch is already well established, so no harm done breaking off pieces within. It's almost a thousand feet from the house, thankfully, and hasn't gotten closer in the subsequent 20 years - now I'm curious why [edit] top of the page so I'll add a picture: house is on the right, while that building to the left of the menace is actually the town well/pumphouse, so I bet they've had some discussions about the situation 
Nosre fucked around with this message at 01:07 on May 16, 2019 |
#
?
May 16, 2019 00:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 12:57 |
|
|
Nosre posted:Holy poo poo, we have that on my parent's farm in new hampshire but I had no idea it was that until now - we just called it bamboo. As a kid I'd get broomsticks and spend hours pretending to be Donatello whacking through bamboo canes, because they give an extremely satisfying pulpy, watery explosion. Lucky for you it wasn't Giant Hogweed! https://www.nytimes.com/2018/07/02/us/giant-hogweed-nyt.html
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 01:40
|
|
|
Cogon grass is our local nemesis, and apparently some kind of taro in swamps. The cogon grass is pretty killable with roundup, but hand weeding is completely useless and it always seems to pop up in the middle of something where you can't really spray it.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 02:10
|
|
|
taqueso posted:You are making me want to bonsai something. Now to find a brick... I see someone has been following my adventures in the bonsai thread 
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 02:10
|
|
|
Jestery posted:I see someone has been following my adventures in the bonsai thread I saw it on the gardening discord.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 02:19
|
|
|
taqueso posted:I saw it on the gardening discord. Ahhh, well there you go
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 02:31
|
|
|
ColdPie posted:Despite the rabbits' best efforts and the bitterly cold winter, all three of our grapevines came back real strong this spring. If you like reading words about plants, I wrote up a blog post about year 2 of my Minnesota grape growing effort with photos of each vine. Hey grapegoon! I'm trying to get some vines going myself and was wondering if you had any thoughts. We planted back in late Spring / early Summer 2018, probably too late really (NC, so Spring is pretty warm). But I think they established themselves pretty well anyway, because there is lots of growth this season. Ours are somewhat unorthodox, on a fence, which is probably not optimal, but we're sort of trying to achieve double purposes of making our fence look neat and also getting grapes. Anyway, by the end of last year's growing season, some of them had gotten partway up the fence, but in Winter they were all down to the nubs -- which from what I've read is normal. I'm not sure if that really counts as a full "first year" or if we're in sort of a "second first year" situation. But currently, they're all starting to make their way up the fence again -- one of them is still having a little bit of trouble really gripping on, but it probably will. I haven't been diligent about pruning yet, though -- and I probably should, although I've read some places that say you can wait it out a little just in case any shoots break. Either way, I think this is the year I'm supposed to be establishing the trunk on each of them. However, there is one that already has two shoots that both look like they could make viable trunks. I'm not sure if I should let them keep going a while longer or chop one off right away; and if so, I'm wondering which one to chop. They're both pretty robust. Maybe it doesn't matter? Pictures:   
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 02:53
|
|
|
reposting this from my twitter because it's easier. basically my potted bell pepper keeps dropping little baby peppers. is it because there's one huge guy? https://twitter.com/FizFashizzle/status/1128748418392834048
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 03:33
|
|
|
Hi thread! I bought a ficus lyrata a little over a week ago. It is starting to show these strange pingpong-ball sized dimples at the tips of all the lower leaves. The upper leaves are fine and the plant generally looks healthy except for these deformations. It's getting plenty of sun (large window, southern direction, trees are shading direct sunlight) and the moisture is around 4-5 at the root level according to my new, cheap moisture meter. I haven't watered it since I got it because I suspect it was very recently watered at the nursery, the reading was ~8/10 on the meter when I got it.   Is this normal?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 12:21
|
|
|
Every fiddle leaf owner I know have weird little things going on with the leaves, I think it is just how the plant do. For reference here is some leaves on a fiddle leaf I pass by regularly  He is in near perfect rainforest like conditions and still has weird poo poo going on. So it might be just be your fiddle leaf being itself 
Jestery fucked around with this message at 13:01 on May 16, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 12:57
|
|
|
Can anyone tell me what the hell this plant is? It’s been overtaking my English ivy, just got time to rip it all up today.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 18:52
|
|
|
Spring Heeled Jack posted:Can anyone tell me what the hell this plant is? It’s been overtaking my English ivy, just got time to rip it all up today. Goutweed?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 19:01
|
|
|
So I have an interesting issue. My house is on a septic system with a square shaped drain field in the middle of a large squarish lawn. The three neighbors on three sides of me all have quaking aspens, and they’re sending suckers over the property line and through my yard. I was content to just mow them down but I’m now worried that the roots are going to establish themselves or find their way to the drain field and really gently caress things up. I’ve read that I can use triclopyr based brush killer, but there’s a risk of killing the established trees. Other than that I guess I’d have to continually cut down the suckers and dig up the roots? Should cut the main root then chance it with the poison? Is there a long term solution to this or am I just kind of hosed? I’m in Washington state and this tree isn’t considered a noxious weed.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 19:08
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Goutweed? Looks like a match, thank you!
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 19:34
|
|
|
Update on my lawn situation: The building developers have said that they think it's a leatherjacket infestation (that came in with the turf) and tried to sidestep the drainage issue until i showed them the video. They're ripping up the turf tomorrow and are gonna relay it with new fresh stuff. That should let me get a look at the alleged topsoil too. Incidentally, the house being built next door got it's garden put in yesterday.   Now, i don't know squat about gardening at all, but i'm assuming that when laying turf, you're not supposed to just leave huge gaps like that? Also, that large dark spot is where all of the water ran when they left the sprinkler on, so i'm guessing the house to the left is gonna feel some drainage issues too right? For topsoil, can anyone point me to something that shows what good topsoil looks like? That second picture shows what the house-builders are using and i suspect what's under my lawn is going to look the same and be really thin/stony.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 20:42
|
|
|
Anyone ever grow Dutchman's Pipe? I bought a house last year and am not a fan of the ivy stuff that came with it. It needs to come down so we can repaint but I was looking for alternatives to plant that will still give the porch some privacy.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 21:02
|
|
|
FizFashizzle posted:reposting this from my twitter because it's easier.
Solkanar512 posted:So I have an interesting issue. My house is on a septic system with a square shaped drain field in the middle of a large squarish lawn. The three neighbors on three sides of me all have quaking aspens, and they’re sending suckers over the property line and through my yard. You might also want to check into who is responsible for damage caused by trees in your area. When we had a house, tree damage was the responsibility of the person who owned the tree, so when roots invaded our sewer pipe, the neighbor who owned that tree had to pay for our repairs. That might be useful leverage for convincing your neighbors to replace the aspens if they're too close. On the other hand, if you poison their trees, you might be the one responsible for replacing them.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 21:36
|
|
|
Kin posted:Update on my lawn situation: The term you want to search for is "finish grade" Phone posting, I'll follow up later, but here's one quick ref: https://youtu.be/2WzW21IPGhw E: https://bergerhargis.com/finish-grading/ http://www.horizonturfnursery.com/ground-preparation-and-sod-install/ Hubis fucked around with this message at 00:59 on May 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2019 23:35
|
|
|
Sir Lemming posted:Hey grapegoon! I'm trying to get some vines going myself and was wondering if you had any thoughts. We planted back in late Spring / early Summer 2018, probably too late really (NC, so Spring is pretty warm). But I think they established themselves pretty well anyway, because there is lots of growth this season. Ours are somewhat unorthodox, on a fence, which is probably not optimal, but we're sort of trying to achieve double purposes of making our fence look neat and also getting grapes. Cool! Congrats and good luck. I'm super new to this too, so everything I say is mostly just parroting from the book I mentioned. My understanding is the first year, you let about 3 shoots grow and mostly do whatever, to help establish the root system. Then at the start of year 2, before bud break, you either prune down to one of last year's shoots, or else prune all the way back and let a new shoot grow. Then let that one shoot go bonkers up your trellis to establish a strong trunk to begin your real crop in years 3 and 4. After that, pruning is mostly about balancing fruit vs vegetation growth. If it grows a ton of vegetation and little fruit, then prune less and leave more fruiting canes on for next year. If it grows too much low quality fruit, prune more to leave fewer fruiting canes. But one thing I've learned from doing online research, as opposed to this book which is aimed at getting maximum quality and yield, is that grapes are pretty flexible. If you screw up pruning one year, or you're focusing on covering a fence with vegetation in addition to growing fruit, then whatever. You're doing it for fun, not profit. Getting maximum quality and yield doesn't have to be the only goal. My thoughts on your particular situation is that it's probably too late to prune. I'd worry a bit about disease having an easier time getting into the wound, due to the warm weather. You're also effectively wasting all of the effort the plant put into growing those leaves, before it got a chance to produce and store any energy from them. I'd let them go as they will this year. Maybe even let one or two flower clusters grow and mature into fruit, if you're feeling it. Then late next winter or early next spring, when buds are maybe just starting to form, prune off whichever of the trunks looks weaker or uglier on your fence. Or heck, just let both grow. According to the book, sending up one new trunk per year is a common style in cold weather areas, to help guard against super cold weather killing the typical one trunk. Bud break here happened just last week. My shoots are growing roughly an inch per day. My longest vine is about 4" so far, it's the same one as in my previous post. If my notes are to be believed, it is a Marquette grape.  P.S. gently caress rabbits.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
ColdPie posted:P.S. gently caress rabbits. Yeah and double gently caress these mother loving squirrels who have made it their personal mission to eat and destroy everything in my garden. Bought a house last year, first time really working on the yard and garden. Had a lovely flower bed with tulips which were coming up wonderfully. Aaaaannnddd they're gone. Bloomed for a bout a day and the squirrels/rabbits chewed off the blooms. Sprinkled chili powder in the beds, will see if that actually does anything.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 02:47
|
|
|
I understand they hate peppermint, so I'm planning on putting a cotton ball soaked in peppermint oil in every pot this year.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 03:22
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend a good soil pH tester? I bought one from amazon but it didn't work so I sent it back. 90% of the ones on there are the same one from china in one of a few different configurations. Or they cost $100+
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 07:22
|
|
|
Hubis posted:The term you want to search for is "finish grade" Awesome, thanks for that. I'll be sure to quote finish grading to the them when it's being relaid. The builders are also saying that the lack of leatherjackets and subsequent thicker lawn will take care of any boggy/drainage issues too as it'll absorb more water. I'm not really convinced by this, but have no idea how thirsty grass can get.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 08:41
|
|
|
Plant MONSTER. posted:
Oh my god, you just helped me ID a plant I've had for ages. I bought it at a grocery store and the tag just said "foliage" and had general light requirements. It's been doing really poorly because I'm a terrible plant mom and I've long suspected it was just too dry, but no amount of water seems to help. Maybe if I get it out of that potting soil and into some proper media that might help.. 
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 09:34
|
|
|
If you’ve had it for ages, it might be rootbound and appreciated a larger pot.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 09:49
|
|
|
Can anyone ID this plant, found in the UK? 
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 10:48
|
|
|
Mr. Vile posted:Can anyone ID this plant, found in the UK? How does it smell? Kind of looks like a scented geranium
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 11:31
|
|
|
Schmeichy posted:How does it smell? Kind of looks like a scented geranium It smells kind of vaguely herb-like, like basil or chives.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 12:11
|
|
|
Mr. Vile posted:It smells kind of vaguely herb-like, like basil or chives. Where is it growing? In your yard?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 12:13
|
|
|
Also, how tall is it?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 12:14
|
|
|
Waltzing Along posted:Can anyone recommend a good soil pH tester? I bought one from amazon but it didn't work so I sent it back. 90% of the ones on there are the same one from china in one of a few different configurations. Or they cost $100+
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 12:25
|
|
|
Bloody Cat Farm posted:Also, how tall is it? It's growing in the garden of a friend of mine so I'm relaying this second hand, but it started out tiny in the winter and has grown to a big ball of leaves around 30cm tall since then.  Better picture of the whole plant, which for some reason the forum has turned sideways. The herb-ish smell also turned out to be something else, the mystery plant just smells like Generic Plant even when the leaves are crushed. Mr. Vile fucked around with this message at 12:53 on May 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 12:37
|
|
|
ColdPie posted:My thoughts on your particular situation is that it's probably too late to prune. I'd worry a bit about disease having an easier time getting into the wound, due to the warm weather. You're also effectively wasting all of the effort the plant put into growing those leaves, before it got a chance to produce and store any energy from them. I'd let them go as they will this year. Maybe even let one or two flower clusters grow and mature into fruit, if you're feeling it. Then late next winter or early next spring, when buds are maybe just starting to form, prune off whichever of the trunks looks weaker or uglier on your fence. Or heck, just let both grow. According to the book, sending up one new trunk per year is a common style in cold weather areas, to help guard against super cold weather killing the typical one trunk. That's actually really helpful, thanks. I'll just let them both fight for supremacy for now. We actually have a cluster already, but it's not even on the fence, it's near the base, so I was almost certainly going to remove it. We'll see. It's not on the one I pictured, it's on a different one that's not quite as big. I want it to grow as much as it needs to, but I'm also super stoked about having a cluster of grapes even if they don't actually taste good or anything, so I'm torn. I'm on the rabbit hate train as well, not for the grapevines specifically (yet), but the garden. We were also trying to grow snap peas on the fence, but they seem determined not to let that happen. I guess that might act as a good first line of defense for the rest of the garden though. Fortunately, the squirrels seem more interested in my pear tree, which yields more than enough fruit to take the hit.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 12:43
|
|
|
Fwiw if you're waffling, I think you should snip it off. Especially if it's low down and you have pest problems and no protection set up. E: Also, just curious, what varieties are you growing? ColdPie fucked around with this message at 14:46 on May 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 14:31
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:If you’ve had it for ages, it might be rootbound and appreciated a larger pot. Phlebodium are epiphytes and luckily don't care too much about space, the roots can happily spill over and the plant will be OK. Bees on Wheat, I recommend placing it somewhere bright but always indirect in terms of sunlight. All my plants are in a bright north facing window and it seems to like that a lot.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 18:12
|
|
|
Kin posted:Update on my lawn situation: So taking a better look at the photos: 1)  no they should be butted up next to one another as tightly as possible2) No there shouldn't be giant loving rocks on the surface  3) So it wasn't clear to me before but the entire property being on a grade means you're going to get *some* overflow onto your neighbor's property, yeah. What you really want is relatively even and consistent grade towards adjacent low-lying ground (the next yard behind you/downhill). You are trying to avoid local depressions where the water will pool rather than dispersing, and you want it to be generally flat perpendicular to the grade to cause the water to spread out rather than concentrate into gullies (unless that's part of your water management). I'm not a sod/landscaping expert so this is just all based on my own experience with my own lawn and stuff I've watched in the "Pro-Am Lawn Care" you-tube scene, but those are the big things that jump out to me. A lot of the things I cite are what seem like "best practices" or ways to maximize how nice your grass ends up after all is said and done -- I'm not sure that *not* doing that sort of thing would constitute malpractice of any sort, for example. But right before sod is laid out is absolutely the best time to add organic matter/soil amendments and do the otherwise hard and expensive work of leveling low spots, so it would be pretty lovely if they half-assed it.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 19:47
|
|
|
Mr. Vile posted:It's growing in the garden of a friend of mine so I'm relaying this second hand, but it started out tiny in the winter and has grown to a big ball of leaves around 30cm tall since then.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 22:20
|
|
|
Plant MONSTER. posted:Phlebodium are epiphytes and luckily don't care too much about space, the roots can happily spill over and the plant will be OK. I actually do have it hanging by a north-facing window, which is unfortunately the only decent light I get here. I have an east-facing window, but there's a wall maybe five feet from it, so it's kind of pointless. It definitely grows toward the light, but doesn't seem desperate for it. I was planning to pot it in some wood chips or orchid mix since it's currently in generic potting soil that doesn't seem to hold on to a drop of moisture, and my biggest problem is that its leaves keep drying up and dying. I tried putting a watering globe in it, and while cute, it doesn't actually dispense water at a reasonable rate at all. As for plant identification, I've been using an app called Seek that's basically a pokedex for real life. Unfortunately, real life has a lot more than 800 species so it's not always super accurate. You might only get a genus or family name, or even "hey this is a plant I guess" which is what I got trying to ID that drat phlebodium. Bees on Wheat fucked around with this message at 00:04 on May 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 18, 2019 00:00
|
|
|
LoreOfSerpents posted:The leaf shape reminds me of ragwort. Maybe tansy ragwort or one of its lookalikes?
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2019 01:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 12:57 |
|
|
Ragwort it is! Thanks for the assist.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2019 21:02
|
|