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um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I also have that steering wheel controller. Programmed it once and have had no issues.

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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Laserface posted:

so my steering wheel controls will randomly not work with my after market head unit. skip track would occasionally not work, and sometimes volume up would act like holding down >>| to seek. the previous owner used an Aerpro adapter which seems to be the problem.


Anyway I bought an iDatalink Maestro SW. it previously only had a web browser plug in that you then used to program the buttons on the brain via USB. by the time it arrived they'd actually released a full blown app for windows and mac and its pretty fantastic.

choose your car, select what your steering wheel looks like, select your head unit, and it gives you a complete full colour wiring diagram specific to your trim level and your head unit, and lets you customise short/long presses of the buttons to do whatever you like. so you can actually add more functions than you had previously, or swap them out of stuff you actually want.

I havent installed it yet but I was pretty impressed with the software. Just thought I'd mention it for anyone else looking for a high quality after market steering wheel adapter. :)


um excuse me posted:

I also have that steering wheel controller. Programmed it once and have had no issues.

Thanks, just ordered one. The nice thing about that is that the web site also lists a whole bunch of head units going way back, so I can trawl through the NEX stuff and see if I can find something that hits my value/toys matrix needs.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Ugg, not sure if its this loving volvo curse or something else, but the USB cable cut out in my NEX so it will charge but not do Android Auto.
Was driving home and it just straight dropped out of AA.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Krakkles posted:

Yeah, and the navigation from apps (I.e., Waze) is always going to be better than the inbuilt crap. That alone is reason enough to use android auto/apple carplay.

My car's turn by turn is better than Android Auto's, but I have a very nice heads up display. Auto is easier to find/input destinations and I like Maps' traffic and alternative routes more effective.

Personally, I found Auto a bit better for playing audio from my phone than Bluetooth, but playing mp3s directly through the head unit much better than using Auto. Too many of the functions are locked down in Auto and voice controls are very hit or miss. Half the time, I would pull over and use my phone for ten seconds after trying and failing voice commands to work for minutes at a time.

Kreez
Oct 18, 2003

Oddhair posted:

I have a weird Android auto problem and I can't even tell who to ding for it, maybe someone here has an idea. Car is a 2016 GTI, phone is a Pixel 3 XL, and I plug in because the stereo visibly nags you as long as you're driving without your phone paired but not connected to Bluetooth, like every drat 30 seconds, and I don't like seeing it in my peripheral vision. You can wave at the stereo and it goes away but seriously all. the. drat. time.

When I do anything that "requires" AA to pause or completely mute the audio I'm listening to it's about a coin toss whether it will relinquish the audio when it's done. Unplugging and replugging the phone immediately fixes it but that's not ideal. I can't say for sure if it relinquishes it to music playing through Android Auto any more reliably but I've had the issue for sure with SiriusXM, the SD card in the glove box, but I'm pretty sure the CD drive is 100% unused.

Seemingly related, it also used to hang onto volume control forever when it lowered the volume on the stereo for notifications, so the volume controls would all stick to adjusting the voice prompts again until the phone was unplugged, and well the audio would simply stay muted as though AA was still telling me something that didn't require full mute of the audio.



Totally unrelated, the dial to the right of the stereo used to zoom in and out on maps, now it just tabs between the map and the search box in the corner :bahgawd:

This happens with my Sony AX100 aftermarket stereo with both my old Pixel 1 and newer Pixel 3. Seems to be a known issue for some people that Google isn't doing a ton about.

While I used to unplug and reconnect my phone, I've found a quick "Ok Google" - <beep> - "Nevermind" generally works at giving the system another shot at properly handing control of the audio/volume back to the stereo.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

meatpimp posted:

2005 Escalade -- all the stupid stuff: chimes through speakers, bose, onstar, steering wheel controls. I don't care about onstar. The others stay.

Your OnStar is either already dead, or will be dying at the end of this year anyway. You probably have the early digital version, which relies on Verizon 3G. Verizon is shutting down their CDMA network at the end of this year and going strictly LTE.

This also kills off all Verizon 4G LTE phones that don't support VoLTE, since those phones were still making calls over the CDMA network. Pretty lovely if you live in the boonies and can't get a solid LTE signal.

https://www.verizonwireless.com/support/knowledge-base-218813/

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



Noob here, bought an old car with a Blaupunkt FM/cassette unit installed, and I'd like something more modern, but still just basic.

I haven't bought a new unit yet, but after checking my current one it seems to already use the ISO connectors, and should cover all the basic functions?
In other words, I shouldn't need any new adapter for replacing the head unit?

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007
Traded my wife's Acadia for a 2017 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has a Uconnect 430/BRZ (no navigation) head unit, which can play DVDs so long as the vehicle is in park. That doesn't do me any good, I want my kids to be able to watch DVDs while going down the highway. I think I have a couple options - I can buy a cheap portable DVD player set that would strap onto the front seats and have all kinds of exposed wires everywhere, this is the cheap and dirty option. Ideally, I would like to have a system installed. I like the idea of a headrest DVD player system, however I believe that is out because the minivan has active headrests. I think my next best option might be modifying the plastic seat back panels to install the screens, so far the biggest problem I've seen is I simply cant find like a DIY kit to install a DVD player into a seat back. Surely if a DVD player and screen can fit in the head rest it must be possible to fit one inside a seat back as well, but thus far my searching efforts only show up replacement headrests which are not compatible due to having active head rests. I have also seen a system designed for use with active headrests where it mounts on the posts used for the headrest and then hangs off behind the seat, in my opinion this is the ugliest option possible. If headrest and seatback DVD players are out, my next option would be an overhead system, however the issue there is that I don't want to have to cut into the headliner to install an aftermarket system. I also think it is just not a very attractive option and I would prefer not to block the rear view while I'm driving. Is there any option I'm overlooking?

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
Tablets on the headrests?

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

Uthor posted:

Tablets on the headrests?
How would I get DVD playback without having to rip and copy DVDs to the tablets?

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
Oh, you'd have to rip them.

But, no changing discs and no discs for the kids to break. My sis got a DVD system (before buying a minivan with one built in) and I always thought tablets would have been easier and cheaper.

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007
I would actually really like the idea of a system that has built in storage or the ability to use a flash drive, but I also want the ability to go to the store and pickup a DVD from the shelf and put it in right away. To some extent, I am a little tempted to try to do a system with raspberr pi and a hacked together DVD-drive, but I suspect that might be an over ambitious goal.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Crotch Fruit posted:

I also want the ability to go to the store and pickup a DVD from the shelf and put it in right away.

Are you living in 2006? How is that possible?!?!?!

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

nielsm posted:

Noob here, bought an old car with a Blaupunkt FM/cassette unit installed, and I'd like something more modern, but still just basic.

I haven't bought a new unit yet, but after checking my current one it seems to already use the ISO connectors, and should cover all the basic functions?
In other words, I shouldn't need any new adapter for replacing the head unit?


you will probably require an ISO to $brand_of_new_head_unit adapter harness, but thats about it.

it can get a bit trickier if you have steering wheel controls, but if you just want a new head unit its pretty much plug and play.

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



Laserface posted:

you will probably require an ISO to $brand_of_new_head_unit adapter harness, but thats about it.

it can get a bit trickier if you have steering wheel controls, but if you just want a new head unit its pretty much plug and play.

Thanks for confirmation, I'll go browse for whatever looks good.
The general recommendation is still to get a name brand (Pioneer and JVC seem to be the main ones locally), then anything above €80 or so should be fine, right?

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

nielsm posted:

Thanks for confirmation, I'll go browse for whatever looks good.
The general recommendation is still to get a name brand (Pioneer and JVC seem to be the main ones locally), then anything above €80 or so should be fine, right?

Pioneer and JVC are both good choices and will have something that meets your needs in that price range - although I dont think you gave us a clear picture what you wanted beyond 'newer than a tape deck

The cheapest Pioneer, MVH-S315BT has bluetooth streaming, handsfree calls, USB, Aux in. It doesnt have a CD drive. about 80 Euro in my neck of the woods (australia) so you might get more for your money, not sure what your market is like.

if you want a CD drive, its slightly more.

Sony have a similar product thats cheaper but I dont know Sony products well and I usually buy around the middle of the market or slightly above mid-point as thats where the best dollar:performance ratio tends to be.

empty baggie
Oct 22, 2003

Crotch Fruit posted:

Traded my wife's Acadia for a 2017 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has a Uconnect 430/BRZ (no navigation) head unit, which can play DVDs so long as the vehicle is in park. That doesn't do me any good, I want my kids to be able to watch DVDs while going down the highway. I think I have a couple options - I can buy a cheap portable DVD player set that would strap onto the front seats and have all kinds of exposed wires everywhere, this is the cheap and dirty option. Ideally, I would like to have a system installed. I like the idea of a headrest DVD player system, however I believe that is out because the minivan has active headrests. I think my next best option might be modifying the plastic seat back panels to install the screens, so far the biggest problem I've seen is I simply cant find like a DIY kit to install a DVD player into a seat back. Surely if a DVD player and screen can fit in the head rest it must be possible to fit one inside a seat back as well, but thus far my searching efforts only show up replacement headrests which are not compatible due to having active head rests. I have also seen a system designed for use with active headrests where it mounts on the posts used for the headrest and then hangs off behind the seat, in my opinion this is the ugliest option possible. If headrest and seatback DVD players are out, my next option would be an overhead system, however the issue there is that I don't want to have to cut into the headliner to install an aftermarket system. I also think it is just not a very attractive option and I would prefer not to block the rear view while I'm driving. Is there any option I'm overlooking?

This is a shot in the dark, but with aftermarket stereos, it's pretty easy to bypass the video-only-in-park thing, usually by just attaching a switch to the wire that normally goes to the parking brake. Your stereo appears to be factory, so it's probably more complicated than that, but it may be doable.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I just short the parking brake wire. There's no reason not to, at least for Pioneer.

empty baggie
Oct 22, 2003

um excuse me posted:

I just short the parking brake wire. There's no reason not to, at least for Pioneer.

I had to put a switch on my latest Pioneer because they now require you to toggle the parking brake in certain situations. I guess there's some sort of relay that can be purchased, but I think the switch thing is easier.

E:VVVVV IIRC, for my current stereo (don't recall the model but it's one of the AVH CarPlay ones), if it detects that the parking brake is already on, it makes you turn it off then back on to access several setup and audio options, as well as some stuff on the AppRadio side that I'm not that concerned about, but it asked me enough times for me to realize that just shorting it wasn't gonna work.

empty baggie fucked around with this message at 22:04 on May 9, 2019

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I know you had to put the brake on to view video or delete Bluetooth devices from memory, but that's all I know. There aren't any feature I'm aware of that don't work with the parking brake on, so I have the wire shorted to ground.

Oddhair
Mar 21, 2004

Kreez posted:

This happens with my Sony AX100 aftermarket stereo with both my old Pixel 1 and newer Pixel 3. Seems to be a known issue for some people that Google isn't doing a ton about.

While I used to unplug and reconnect my phone, I've found a quick "Ok Google" - <beep> - "Nevermind" generally works at giving the system another shot at properly handing control of the audio/volume back to the stereo.

Thanks, that worked a treat!

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



Laserface posted:

Pioneer and JVC are both good choices and will have something that meets your needs in that price range - although I dont think you gave us a clear picture what you wanted beyond 'newer than a tape deck

The cheapest Pioneer, MVH-S315BT has bluetooth streaming, handsfree calls, USB, Aux in. It doesnt have a CD drive. about 80 Euro in my neck of the woods (australia) so you might get more for your money, not sure what your market is like.

if you want a CD drive, its slightly more.

Sony have a similar product thats cheaper but I dont know Sony products well and I usually buy around the middle of the market or slightly above mid-point as thats where the best dollar:performance ratio tends to be.

Found a Pioneer MVH-290DAB on clearance sale at €45 and just grabbed that, it's an old-ish model (2017) and doesn't do handsfree but I don't care about that either way. Managed to install it with (almost) no problems, though I'm just leaving the included DAB antenna off for now. :effort:

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Replaced the lovely rears 6x9 speaker-and-a-head-unit-in-one-package-for-$99 speakers in the civic with a pair of Pioneer TS-A6970F 5 Ways.

I'll eventually hook up my 2ch amp and drive them properly (Seeing as they want/handle 100w RMS), but for now, they sound much better, but are slightly overpowering the fronts.

The 10" sub is firing, but man it hits a lot lighter than I remember when it was installed my WRX.

Edit:

If I want to properly drive both the sub and the 6x9s, i should replace the 8g power wire from the battery with a 4ga, run it to one of these then 8ga to each amp (rears and sub) along with a new set of RCA cables from the H/U for the rears, right?

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:55 on May 15, 2019

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

5 way? :wtc:

8 gauge is a bit on the thin side for a good sub amp (though I have 8 ga on my lovely Crunch "1100 watt" amp, and it was a loving hassle getting the power terminals into the connectors on the amp... it's definitely not made for wire that heavy). You might want to look into one of the many small class D amps that are meant to power your main speakers - a lot of them will fit behind the dash, and you can run everything off of factory wiring.

Something like this. But I don't see the point in a dedicated amp for the rear speakers - focus on the front speakers. Hell, personally I'd put those speakers up front, and put the Walmart specials in the back again. That particular one is nearly double the RMS output of most head units, and it's efficient enough that it can run off of the existing stereo power wiring (usually...).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:41 on May 16, 2019

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


STR posted:

5 way? :wtc:

8 gauge is a bit on the thin side for a good sub amp (though I have 8 ga on my lovely Crunch "1100 watt" amp, and it was a loving hassle getting the power terminals into the connectors on the amp... it's definitely not made for wire that heavy). You might want to look into one of the many small class D amps that are meant to power your main speakers - a lot of them will fit behind the dash, and you can run everything off of factory wiring.

Something like this. But I don't see the point in a dedicated amp for the rear speakers - focus on the front speakers. Hell, personally I'd put those speakers up front, and put the Walmart specials in the back again. That particular one is nearly double the RMS output of most head units, and it's efficient enough that it can run off of the existing stereo power wiring (usually...).

The only reason i got the 5 ways was i got them for a steal (under $50). Otherwise I would have jsut grabbed something far more basic and tossed them in.
I've got the 2ch amp already from the front components that are too much of a PITA to get into the civic.

I'm also fine just taking out the sub for now and driving the rears well.

:shrug: it's a car i can gently caress with easily.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Double posting, but i put on some crimp ferrules on the PO wiring for the amp.

The connections feel much more secure, and I think the sub is punching better with a definite solid connection.

I still may swap in the amp for the rears instead, but we'll see.

@STR: If i was going to amp/drive the fronts i'd put those Infinity components in, but i don't want to gently caress with the wiring to that level. I mean, you've warned me off the door looms already.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Honestly, if you're smart with the wiring and where you put the crossovers, you won't have to pull any new wiring into the doors. I've hidden crossovers between the door barrier membrane and the door panel plenty of times (this can be kind of a PITA depending how big the xover is physically); you have to extend the existing wiring to the input of the crossover and run new wires to the components, but that's not a big deal. If you plan to put the tweeters on the A pillars, splice the crossover into the speaker wiring between the head unit and door, mount it behind the kick panel with some double sided tape, and connect the existing door speaker wires to the woofer output. This also makes it really easy to return to stock.

Going that way will certainly never win an IASCA trophy, and it's far from elegant, but it works.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:21 on May 24, 2019

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.
I'm selecting a new head unit for my little Mazda, and I'm hearing the siren song of ultra cheap amazon double din touch screens. Are there any of these that don't actually suck?

Frank Dillinger
May 16, 2007
Jawohl mein herr!
Are there any go-to recommendations for a 6.5 speaker that doesn’t break the bank? I need two for my miata and have no idea what’s good.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I've got Rockford Fosgate Prime 1675s in my 96 Miata which are plenty. NAs are a poor choice if audio quality is a priority so I went cheapy. The Prime 165 would be the 6.5 inch version of that speaker. For context, their product line is broken into 3 different quality categories. Prime, punch, and power in ascending order. They have 6.5s in each category.

winter.mute
Jan 5, 2010
I had some Infinity Kappas in my '91 Miata that did a pretty good job even with the top down on the highway (9 years ago).
Currently I've got some JBL Club6520 in a Karmann Ghia (noisier than the Miata) that are also pretty good at cutting through the road noise.

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.

Mr. Wiggles posted:

I'm selecting a new head unit for my little Mazda, and I'm hearing the siren song of ultra cheap amazon double din touch screens. Are there any of these that don't actually suck?

Nothing? Anything?

Humbug
Dec 3, 2006
Bogus
I don't have much experience with them, but my impression is that they are essentially cheap android tablets in double din format. This gives them a lot of features, due to play store availability, but i question their user friendliness in the headunit core features. Bluetooth music streaming and handsfree from phones seem tacked on. They won't support Apple Carplay or Android Auto although i guess you can use the android auto standalone app without a phone connected. Digital radio will be tacked on at best. The audio components are probably not the best.

At the same time, I find the double din touchscreen HUs I've tried from the major manufacturers to be pretty poo poo as well. Clunky interfaces, poor quality resistive screens, glacially slow performance compared to modern smartphones. It's possible it gets better in the higher price ranges, but then they become stupidly expensive. I considered a touchscreen HU, but ended up buying an old style "dumb" unit with Bluetooth and DAB and a good phone cradle instead.

Edit: I broadly agree with what Daniel is saying here
https://www.quora.com/Why-are-double-din-car-stereo-head-units-so-slow-and-always-have-a-clunky-UI

Humbug fucked around with this message at 10:42 on May 31, 2019

Oddhair
Mar 21, 2004

I haven't tried the radios mentioned but a lot of things are now Android tablets in other form factors: Poly IP phones have been for a while, any Microsoft Teams-compatible phone is required by MS to be android running a native Teams app, and on-screen messages will even refer to the "tablet". I don't have any say in using these things but there are some noticeable compromises, mostly in HW specs it seems; I believe Audio Codes is removing ADB support altogether in the near future, too.

If you can find a head unit with Android Auto I've enjoyed it quite a bit, though apparently even within that lineup they are hit or miss. I can use both Waze and Google maps and switch between them, since Maps barely acknowledges that surface streets exist, and there's Play Music, Spotify, I believe Audible is on there too.

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

Mr. Wiggles posted:

Nothing? Anything?

I dunno. Taking into account the above posts, a single DIN headunit in a dash adaptor with BT functionality seems the way to go. The Pioneer X390BT in conjunction with my phablet in a sturdy mount was a revelation. I run route delivery with a mid-2000s Ram, so I use Google maps all the time. Full integration: music stops and starts along with the truck through Pandora, hands-free calls through stereo can be answered through the phone or stereo, mapping apps interrupt music but not calls, with the added bonus of choosing where I need the screen. The only problem I've seen is that BT sometimes interferes with my work computer when it is communicating with homebase.

$100 with dash adapter, speaker adapters, and another $10 for Crutchfield to crimp the dash wiring together.

e: Sounds good, too. Two 6x9s, two 6.5s and a powered sub getting signal through RCA inputs.

madeintaipei fucked around with this message at 18:44 on May 31, 2019

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.
That's all good info. So the verdict is, essentially, "they all suck, but so does everything else so whatcha gonna do?"

Humbug
Dec 3, 2006
Bogus
To me, yes that sounds about right. I may be unreasonably harsh on the amazon specials considering I haven't had one in my car. Forums user InitialDave has a video review of an amazon HU provided to him. To me it looks a bit clunky, but all I really want my HU to do is to play music and phonecalls from my phone. If you usually listen to FM radio or use MP3 memory sticks/cards, an amazon HU might be a good fit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_-rb5Ui-nE

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

You can buy a $50 adapter that gives you android auto and CarPlay on one of those generic android head units. I will be trying one soon I hope, $80 for a HU with capacitive touchscreen and a volume knob is pretty cheap.

eBay and the China-direct (aliexpress and co) sites are the place to get them.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
If I was to get one of those, I'd go for one of the big capacitive touchscreen ones.

I'm still happy with my Sony XAV-AX100

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Oddhair posted:

If you can find a head unit with Android Auto I've enjoyed it quite a bit, though apparently even within that lineup they are hit or miss. I can use both Waze and Google maps and switch between them, since Maps barely acknowledges that surface streets exist, and there's Play Music, Spotify, I believe Audible is on there too.

As someone that does courier work, I have a love/hate relationship with Waze.

When it works, it's awesome. If you're in an area with slow/poor data coverage, it's absolutely useless - in my experience, it can't even download offline maps to at least help you get into the general area of where you're trying to go. Google Maps prioritizes tollroads, then highways, then access roads, then surface streets (it will NEVER take you down residential streets until the final mile, while Waze has no problem routing you through a residential area to avoid a 30 minute delay on regular surface streets), but at least it can use offline maps (you can't use "avoid tolls" or "avoid highways" when data speeds are crap :fuckoff: but you can at least zoom in on the maps you've already downloaded to figure out your own route). I've sat there for 5+ minutes waiting for Waze to figure out a route, when Google Maps has it together in <15 seconds (without traffic data or toll roads obviously, but still, at least it gives me a general direction to follow, and eventually pops up an update route button once it figures out which 2400 bps modem to use.

I've also discovered T-Mobile was absolutely fabulous in DFW, not so much in Austin. :sigh: (at least not out in the sticks, and oddly, in some areas that show full bars, but have absolutely zero data connectivity). There's a couple of areas where I can't even make voice calls despite having full LTE bars and plenty of data, unless I force my phone to roam onto AT&T (I have VoLTE disabled because my phone is absolutely terrible with it; when I have it on, I drop calls constantly, and people bitch about me sounding like I'm overseas... if the call lasts more than 30 seconds). Though in T-Mobile's defense, my phone is very well known for having antenna issues with T-Mobile... :fuckoff: (my work phone also has issues in these areas though, and it's a model that's NOT known for issues with T-Mobile)

For reference: Personal phone is an Essential PH-1 (the one well known for having issues with T-Mobile), work phone is a Moto G5 Plus. I plan to try and replace the PH-1 with a OnePlus 6T or better soon, now that the 7 Pro is out it should drop in price quickly. The work phone is only going to get replaced with something newer because I slammed it into the ground when I tripped and fell (shattered screen; has random screen artifacts since then and the touch screen is flaky at best). Probably replace it with a G7, since the G6 was a slight downgrade (in CPU).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:16 on Jun 1, 2019

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