|
Darchangel posted:I *really* need to get on my dad to resurrect his '55. It hasn't run since I was in junior high - and I graduated high school in 1988. My friend just closed on a house with a 40x60 pole barn. His boss is giving him the old paint booth from the body shop. I have a 57 210 in my garage that needs minimal body work paint, and a drive train. I'm hoping to get started this winter. I'm on the lookout for wrecked Corvettes at auction so I can get a nice LS.
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 21:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 03:16 |
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Yes, but that engine bay is TIGHT That. Also, the si still commands a pretty decent premium. I'm a bit leery of any 8th gen Civic (except for the Si) thanks to the block issues they had. I drove a friend's 8th gen LX a couple of times, and it ... just wasn't a great driving experience in general. I know the Si would be improved quite a bit, but my old salvage title 95 EX w/200k drove better than her 07 LX with 80k. StormDrain posted:Prius is four doors tho? Mazdaspeed 6 is too? Prius is missing a pedal, and is overly prone to a $2500 repair that disables ABS and regenerative braking (dropping mileage down into the low 30s). I don't see a Speed 6 holding up very well against 50+ stops/starts a day. It's a moot point anyway, I don't have the money for another car at the moment. If I can nurse this POS along a couple more months, I'll have the Avalon to get me by for awhile. It's still missing a 3rd pedal, but it'd be free, has full maintenance history, and I know it's in good shape. And I'd be able to sell both cars to get something a little newer at some point. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:17 on May 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 18, 2019 10:11
|
|
|
EvilBeard posted:My friend just closed on a house with a 40x60 pole barn. His boss is giving him the old paint booth from the body shop. I have a 57 210 in my garage that needs minimal body work paint, and a drive train. I'm hoping to get started this winter. I'm on the lookout for wrecked Corvettes at auction so I can get a nice LS. I give GM a lot of flak, but cranking out the LS series of motors by the boatload was one of automotives finest gifts.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2019 12:53
|
|
C-Bangin' it
|
 Wow, my hood shuts again!
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2019 18:55
|
|
|
I finally got a chance to do some work on my girlfriend's "new" 1988 4Runner. We knew the parking brake didn't work. A look underneath revealed one side was completely missing it's bell crank and the parking brake cable on that side was just flapping in the breeze.  Thankfully, included with the 4Runner came a cornucopia of new parts. Including a new pair of bell cranks. Attempting to even move the remaining bell crank resulted in the aluminum mount cracking.  Luckily the bolts holding it came out just fine:  New crank in place (with original cables, which seemed fine).  The old bell crank after removal.  The adjustment wheels on the rear brakes were so far out of wack I needed to turn them out 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to get proper parking brake engagement (which also did wonders for brake peddle operation). At least it has parking brakes now. Next task: take apart the tailgate to see what is hosed with the rear window regulator. P.S. If anyone knows of a manual crank option for a 1st gen 4Runner tailgate glass that doesn't look totally redneck, I would love to hear about it.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2019 22:36
|
|
|
Took the FB out for a little drive before this massive thunderstorm hits to clear the crap out, rotary style. The stock Nikki carb would weep openly if you tried to go anywhere near redline, while the RB/Holley setup is smooth and consistent all the way. The Holley fuel pump is a bit loud until the exhaust noise takes over. https://youtu.be/WErwEAn8PhM
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2019 22:49
|
|
|
Powerwashed the mud from the driveway where the zx2 has been sitting for a few weeks. Disconnected the hardline for the clutch slave cylinder, moved the cylinder and hardline off to the side so it isnt between the transaxle and mount, and then reconnected the hardline. Stuff that still needs to be done before removing transaxle:
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2019 23:40
|
|
|
brand engager posted:Powerwashed the mud from the driveway where the zx2 has been sitting for a few weeks. Disconnected the hardline for the clutch slave cylinder, moved the cylinder and hardline off to the side so it isnt between the transaxle and mount, and then reconnected the hardline. Stuff that still needs to be done before removing transaxle: For supporting the engine, there is a device for mechanics that is basically just an extendable-length bar. The ends of the bar sit on the lips of the fenders where they bolt down to the body, and yo hang the engine from it with chains or straps. For our Kia clutch change, I used two chunks of 2x4 with holes drilled through in the center and high on one of the 4" faces, and a piece of galvanized 1" pipe. The 2x4s sit on the fender lips, and the pipe goes through the holes. The holes are drilled high enough for the pipe to clear the tops of the fenders. A floor jack with a length of 2x6 to spread the load, under the oil pan, also works. The bar thing has the advantage of being out of the way when you lower and maneuver the transaxle, of course.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2019 22:36
|
|
|
I saw the ford version in the workshop manual but hadnt thought of looking up a generic one. Harbor freight just has one model for around 80 dollars
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 00:30
|
|
|
 94 Delica is washed, waxed and detailed, just waiting on the inclinometer/temperature gauge OEM pod that sits on the center dashboard to arrive.      Did all the belts on the 93 Rugger. They were all original which time rotted badly in the almost 30 years they've been on the truck. Only has 24,000 km on the thing (15,000 miles) so I figured the water pump and tensioners were good, and I was right. I then took the decals off (after taking detailed pictures in case I wanted to recreate) in preperation for some dent repair and paint correction. Lots of hairline scratches on both sides probably due to brushed car washes over the years, probably going to need to be wet sanded. Also want to do up the wheels in white as they need to be refinished anyway and now the gold is off I think it will look pretty nice. Also plan on doing some new decals as well but design and colors are up for debate still. 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 05:49
|
|
|
Those lil things are so awesome kake. White wall Wednesday. Gotta mount my new bumpers, oil change, pull moldy headliner out, polish hubcaps, then put the skirts back on and cruise. 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 19:23
|
|
|
brand engager posted:I saw the ford version in the workshop manual but hadnt thought of looking up a generic one. Harbor freight just has one model for around 80 dollars Yep, that's the dingus I was talking about. I realized I had a picture of what I did:  edit: in my case, it was mainly for safety, adjusting position, and getting the trans in and out - the Kia setup has three of the mounts on the engine, and only one on the trans. KakerMix posted:Did all the belts on the 93 Rugger. They were all original which time rotted badly in the almost 30 years they've been on the truck. Only has 24,000 km on the thing (15,000 miles) so I figured the water pump and tensioners were good, and I was right. I then took the decals off (after taking detailed pictures in case I wanted to recreate) in preperation for some dent repair and paint correction. Lots of hairline scratches on both sides probably due to brushed car washes over the years, probably going to need to be wet sanded. Also want to do up the wheels in white as they need to be refinished anyway and now the gold is off I think it will look pretty nice. Also plan on doing some new decals as well but design and colors are up for debate still. Hmmm. I think I'd prefer the silver wheels with that body color, but white wouldn't be awful. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:15 on May 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 21:12
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Yep, that's the dingus I was talking about. I did something similar with my Capri. I used an empty barbell latched to my shock towers and fenders, with a couple of ratchet straps as a makeshift pulley to move the trans It was really hard to work with, but it got the job done
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 21:26
|
|
|
It needs more teal and maybe "4x4" written in the purple line. 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 21:29
|
|
|
Verman posted:It needs more teal and maybe "4x4" written in the purple line. My MS3 is dipped in that shade of teal (its my brother's old project car that he sold me for a song.) When we were prepping to shoot he was joking he needed white and dark purple so he could spray the car with that motif.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 21:35
|
|
|
Geoj posted:My MS3 is dipped in that shade of teal (its my brother's old project car that he sold me for a song.) My shitbox AE86 is more or less that teal, too. 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 22:19
|
|
|
I picked up that harbor freight engine support, and the chains that come with it are extremely short. I've got a pair of 1000lb ratcheting straps I could wrap around the bar&engine instead so it's probably fine. It's only a little 2.0L 4-cylinder engine.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 01:41
|
|
|
I did an oil change and spilled more oil than I have in a long time. Really thinking twice about using an extractor from here on out.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 02:00
|
|
|
Had the first "gently caress you" from the civic last night. Went to change the rear struts/springs now that the KYB quick struts finally are back in stock. Drivers rear gave me no problems and went as planned. Passenger side however, the captive nut or whatever it is on the wheel hub has broken loose, so I can't back the bolt out. Basically the opposite side of this fucker:  I need to break out the vice grips and go to lowes for a grade 8 nut that matches once I get the fucker off
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 13:11
|
|
|
The 88 4Runner's tailgate power window wasn't working (I know, shocking). It wasn't having some of the common issues of the window motor not coming on at all or sticking and not going all the way up. The issue was that when you turned the key, you'd hear the motor spin but the window wouldn't really move. But if you grabbed it, you could Slide it up and down easily. So easily that going over bumps would drop the glass back down. Unscrewing the trim panel showed the regulator arms were still in the rails on the bottom of the window. (Can't really see that here)  As a stop gap to keep the window up, I put it back in the up position and used a heavy duty zip tie to hold the gears in the upright position. The gears that meshed with each other to synchronize the lift arms looked fine and the teeth were in good shape. However, looking at the gear that the motor drives revealed some very rounded teeth:  This is how those should look:  I am sure the teeth on the motor itself are FUBAR as well. I've got a "new" regulator with motor assembly on the way, until then, the gate stays closed.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 19:42
|
|
|
brand engager posted:I picked up that harbor freight engine support, and the chains that come with it are extremely short. I've got a pair of 1000lb ratcheting straps I could wrap around the bar&engine instead so it's probably fine. It's only a little 2.0L 4-cylinder engine. Yeah, that's fine. HF also has pretty cheap chains, too, which reminds me I should pick up one of their "trucker" chains for pulling stuff around.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 20:01
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Yeah, that's fine. After I posted that I realized letting the engine back down might be a pain since the straps dont have a way to slowly untighten them. I got a pair of 6 foot chains from home depot that have a higher working load than the HF support, so they should hold and I can use the screw things the support came with to gradually raise lower the engine.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 01:04
|
|
|
brand engager posted:After I posted that I realized letting the engine back down might be a pain since the straps dont have a way to slowly untighten them. I got a pair of 6 foot chains from home depot that have a higher working load than the HF support, so they should hold and I can use the screw things the support came with to gradually raise lower the engine. That is definitely an issue with ratchet straps. Kind of all or nothing going out/down. I had a jack under it for that part - the straps were just to hold it.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 17:35
|
|
|
Rashed the gently caress out of a rim and tire à week ago, just picked up a set of old focus rims for a song. The FiST is gonna look real weird.  Before and after, looking drat good for 100 for all four.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 20:48
|
|
|
There's enough meat there that you could paint a cooler looking wheel design on them. Just throwing some ideas out there, paint the wheel black, and the red lines in bronze or silver   You could even extend the paint onto the tire to make it look like you're rollin on dubz
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 20:59
|
|
|
I'm thinking I'm just gonna hit the tiny center mills with some gloss black and be done with it. I don't mind having a completely boring looking car, and I'm too cheap to make it look kickin rad. I'd rather spend the money on internal stuff. That first design is the exact rim I'm swapping off, lol. I'm cool not having a 400$ a corner setup.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 21:53
|
|
|
Potato lighting but finally getting around to installing my parts pile on my FiST.  
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2019 18:48
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2019 19:50
|
|
|
Put bumpers on, changed oil, washed it. 30 mile round trip shakedown and it went well, 15lbs oil pressure, supposed to be just fine for these old stove bolts. Can't wait to ditch this little 1bbl, leaks like a bastard. I've got a Weber 32/36 to rebuild, gonna try and knock that out this week. 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2019 20:50
|
|
|
My welds are objectively awful but this downpipe fits nicely! I welded v-band fittings on the end so I can replace the tiny radius tube with a full exhaust later. I plan to get one of the Skillard rear diffuser trays and set up a muffler. hilariously even in its current state this is road legal in Texas   
Waffle House fucked around with this message at 02:45 on May 26, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2019 02:27
|
|
|
Got the starter and passenger-side halfshaft out, planning on doing the driver-side tomorrow. Had to remove a bunch of stuff to make room for the slide hammer. Stuffed a clean rag into the output shaft opening afterwards. Starter looks weirdly beat up      I ran out to buy the axle remover+slide hammer tool from oreillys, but they only rent them. I think they just refund the cost when you bring it back so I could probably just keep it since I wanted to buy the thing anyways. Let me know if they'll send a hit team after me for not returning the tool, tia.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2019 02:57
|
|
|
brand engager posted:Let me know if they'll send a hit team after me for not returning the tool, tia. Nope, that's totally how I got mine.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2019 03:21
|
|
|
brand engager posted:I ran out to buy the axle remover+slide hammer tool from oreillys, but they only rent them. I think they just refund the cost when you bring it back so I could probably just keep it since I wanted to buy the thing anyways. Let me know if they'll send a hit team after me for not returning the tool, tia. I work for them. I'm alerting the hit squads now. Nah, just give the store a call and be like "Yo, I'm keeping the tools. You might wanna order some new ones you parts dorks."
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2019 13:34
|
|
|
Today's mission: learn how to replace McPherson struts. Out with the OEM, in with KyB. I have a full tool kit, Chilton's guides loaded up, a whazoo of torque wrenches and an air compressor along with the guidance of a wizened greybeard who rebuilds Corvairs for fun. He's been thoroughly bribed with beer and liquor so hopefully this job goes smoothly. I'll bring back some snaps.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2019 17:15
|
|
|
2 hondas, 2 b series transmission swaps, 1 transmission build, 8 hours. What a loving start to the race season.    
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2019 23:40
|
|
|
Wasn't able to get the driver-side halfshaft out of my zx2. The hub end of it doesn't want to let go, and I wasn't able to find an angle where I could get the axle remover onto the transmission end of it. If harbor freight is open tomorrow (memorial day here in the US) then I'll pick up a hub puller or something that'll shove it out of the hub, and look for anything that might help with the other end of it.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2019 02:14
|
|
|
brand engager posted:Wasn't able to get the driver-side halfshaft out of my zx2. The hub end of it doesn't want to let go, and I wasn't able to find an angle where I could get the axle remover onto the transmission end of it. If harbor freight is open tomorrow (memorial day here in the US) then I'll pick up a hub puller or something that'll shove it out of the hub, and look for anything that might help with the other end of it. Harbor Freight is absolutely open on Memorial Day, 25% COUPONS OFF MY GUY!!!!!!
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2019 02:20
|
|
|
Cool I'll be working on the car then since my job is closed tomorrow. There's not any room on the left side of that shaft because of the transmission case being there, and the subframe and stuff is on the right so I'll be doing some contortionist poo poo to get the puller in there and tap it between the output shaft opening and the joint
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2019 02:28
|
|
|
Alternatively, remove the PS half shaft (should be held in by a bearing) and tap the driver side axle out with a center punch through the differential.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2019 02:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 03:16 |
|
|
I could if the shaft that holds the pinion gears didnt run right through the center of the diff
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2019 04:29
|
|