|
I assume in this case bad footwork refers to the habit of placing your foot, then "pivoting" it until you find the right placement? As opposed to repeatedly moving your whole leg to try and reach a hold?
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 21:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 17:56 |
|
|
I think I do most of my damage by smearing the wall to the hold instead of placing it. Happens a lot more when you're tired and trying to scramble up the wall.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 21:32
|
|
|
Depends on the type of stuff you climb, honestly.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 21:34
|
|
|
For beginners it is mostly putting your foot above the hold and sliding it down or dragging your toe up to the hold. Does a number on shoes.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
Jester Mcgee posted:I just got back from a vacation to Paris that I had planned before I started climbing. About halfway through the trip I realized that Fontainebleau is ridiculously close, and it's all bouldering so I didn't have to learn ropes or anything. I proceeded to head out there with no guidebook, crashpad, or knowledge of any kind. I went to Bas Cuvier because there was a google map location for it and it was on the road between Paris and Fontainebleau town. I spent a goony half hour walking around looking at boulders being too shy to approach anyone and admit my ignorance, but then I latched onto some folks from the UK and had an absolute blast. It was my first time climbing outside, and I can say for sure that I am hooked. This hobby is dope. This deserves a big high five. The first Font 6a ever recorded is at Bas Cuvier- here's a video of climbing supremo Adam Ondra falling off it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq5Xku0Ipuo. Bonus fact: Bas Cuvier car park used to be a notorious rendezvous for truckers and prostitutes.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2019 16:43
|
|
|
I led my first offwidth yesterday, but due to time constraints we only did the first pitch. Massive sufferfest for someone new to trad leading in general and who has only done a few hand cracks to that point, but I managed to hold on to the onsight, and my follower said all my placements were good. I'd like to go back some other time and bag the rest of the route. We also did Arachnid, which I followed. I got to borrow some Ocun gloves which made things a lot more comfortable; I haven't even taped up for trad before, let alone used gloves. Lots of fun on this route, and I think I could lead it. Perfect hands, and good placement stances.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2019 04:24
|
|
|
Had a great moment at the gym Sunday where I watched several a-little-better-than-me climbers struggle with the start of a V4 only for me to get on it and glide through it effortlessly. Don't know why they had a tough time, but I took to the time to silently be self-satisfied for a few minutes before loving up my fingers on a pocket V5 problem. Time to bust out the gripsaver! I don't think there's any actual major tendon damage but I think the knuckles popped a lil. Gonna take some days off climbing I guess!
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2019 14:24
|
|
|
I'm now at this awkward point where I can easily do every single V2 at the gym, but I can't complete a single V3. There's one where I get half way up and then have no idea wtf to do, 1 I can get a little bit up but don't think I have the raw strength to do it yet, and then a few others that are more of a flexibility issue than anything. I guess just keep on throwing myself against it / practicing climbing up & down on the V2's? Anything else I can do?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 16:03
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I'm now at this awkward point where I can easily do every single V2 at the gym, but I can't complete a single V3. There's one where I get half way up and then have no idea wtf to do, 1 I can get a little bit up but don't think I have the raw strength to do it yet, and then a few others that are more of a flexibility issue than anything. I guess just keep on throwing myself against it / practicing climbing up & down on the V2's? Anything else I can do? Try hard stuff and try hard on the hard stuff. Also, watch better climbers and try to copy their beta. If you don't understand what they did differently, ask and pay attention to micro adjustments or differences - where they place their feet on holds, how they adjust their hips, etc. Film yourself climbing and watch it back on your hard projects to look for areas of improvement. If you send a problem but it was super hard, do it again until you can get it more smoothly. Pull on some 4s or even 5s if they look cool. The goal is not to send; it's to improve at climbing.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 16:26
|
|
|
Yea I try to talk to people, someone did give me some really good advice last night that made 1 problem go from "What the gently caress is this" to "Oh, that makes sense - I think I'll get it in a week or two". Unfortunately it seems like everyone is either crazy good and doing much harder stuff, or just starting out doing 1's and 2's  Like the one I got some feedback on last night, that was the second time I've seen someone else attempt it over the last 3 weeks I've been going :/There is a V4 that is pretty simple, just has holds that are a little more difficult that I'm making good progress on.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 16:47
|
|
|
Climbing is a heavily technical sport, so if a set of moves isn't in your repertoire it can make a lot of routes feel impossible. Unfortunately the only way to push through that is to learn the various movements, which takes time.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2019 16:54
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Yea I try to talk to people, someone did give me some really good advice last night that made 1 problem go from "What the gently caress is this" to "Oh, that makes sense - I think I'll get it in a week or two". Unfortunately it seems like everyone is either crazy good and doing much harder stuff, or just starting out doing 1's and 2's If you're comfortable with it, you could post video of you trying to climb something and we could give advice based on what we see
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 01:18
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Unfortunately it seems like everyone is either crazy good and doing much harder stuff, or just starting out doing 1's and 2's This might feel awkward but you might try asking a climber that is climbing harder for some beta even if they aren't climbing that problem. I personally don't mind when someone asks for tips or even asks if I'd climb something in front of them. As others have said, watch the better climbers climb. Even if they are doing harder problems you can still pick up a lot of movement ideas you might not have thought about.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 05:20
|
|
|
I miss having stamina........ Having to take 5 months off was the worst. Slow and steady though.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 06:01
|
|
|
I've got a weekend at the Red River Gorge planned for June 8. I'm going with a friend who has been climbing for about a decade, and he's going to teach me how to climb ropes instead of only bouldering. I am very excited.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 13:00
|
|
|
Niyqor posted:This might feel awkward but you might try asking a climber that is climbing harder for some beta even if they aren't climbing that problem. I personally don't mind when someone asks for tips or even asks if I'd climb something in front of them. I started off at the gym by myself approching rando climbers and asking for tips or help on unrelated beta to whatever they were doing. Helps to be an extreme extrovert I guess.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 14:16
|
|
|
Jester Mcgee posted:I've got a weekend at the Red River Gorge planned for June 8. I'm going with a friend who has been climbing for about a decade, and he's going to teach me how to climb ropes instead of only bouldering. I am very excited. Awesome. The red is so fun.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 14:24
|
|
|
Wrr posted:I started off at the gym by myself approching rando climbers and asking for tips or help on unrelated beta to whatever they were doing. Helps to be an extreme extrovert I guess. Ask anyone really, in between attempts people love talking most of the time and they will be super happy to help you. Some probably want to, but don’t want to be annoying and tell others what to do without being asked.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 15:05
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:How long did shipping take for you? I placed an order on the 28th and still don't even have a shipping number. Should call them, now that I've realized it's been that long Still hadn't gotten a shipping tracker from TheraBand; finally called them this morning... and their phone system doesn't work? Shot them an email and they got back to me pretty quickly. Turns out the one I ordered was out of stock which their website didn't indicate (or I missed it  ), they apologized and said they'll send me a "clinical flexbar, it is the same thing but packaged differently"... and they're overnighting it to me, which is very cool.Also ordered some of those little finger resistance bands off Amazon as they were only $10. gently caress those dumb V3's I can't do yet, gonna eat 'em for breakfast in a few weeks  I might try to film myself as some of you suggested, but most of the problems I'm working on are completely surrounded by padding and other walls - no where to set up my small tripod & camera that wouldn't get knocked over as people walk around.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 19:33
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Still hadn't gotten a shipping tracker from TheraBand; finally called them this morning... and their phone system doesn't work? Shot them an email and they got back to me pretty quickly. Turns out the one I ordered was out of stock which their website didn't indicate (or I missed it I realize we're all goons in here, but you could just ask someone to film you. Plenty of people I don't know well have asked me to do that before and it's fine, the vast majority of my(and most people's) time at a climbing gym is just sitting there watching people climb anyway.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 19:40
|
|
|
finger bands might help with tendon health but they aren't going to make you stronger or better...
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 19:44
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:I realize we're all goons in here, but you could just ask someone to film you. Plenty of people I don't know well have asked me to do that before and it's fine, the vast majority of my(and most people's) time at a climbing gym is just sitting there watching people climb anyway.  I'd be comfortable asking people for advice but I'd feel a little silly asking them to film me failing  Oh well, just need to stop being a baby I guess.crazycello posted:finger bands might help with tendon health but they aren't going to make you stronger or better... Oh? A friend who initially introduced me to the sport years ago said they helped him them. Oh well. Just something to fidget with at work then
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 19:59
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Oh? A friend who initially introduced me to the sport years ago said they helped him them. Oh well. Just something to fidget with at work then One thing I love about climbing is that people are really chill. It can be a nice social experience to climb. I’ve been doing this for a bit over 2 months and have a bunch of gym buddies now. I used to suffer from heavy social anxiety though, so I can understand that it’s not easy at first. While you won’t be jumping grades because you do finger exercises, they might still help a bit.Especially if you have particularly weak forearms or can’t climb multiple times a week. At worst they’ll help prevent injuries so it’s still a win.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 20:24
|
|
|
Will it ever stop raining/snowing in Colorado? I just went on seasonal unemployment, and then the snow moved back in. What a bunch of crap! Last week it looked like today would be a good weather window to do an alpine route on Pikes, but obviously that didn't pan out. I did run into two friends at the gym though and got my customary 10 routes in. Orthopedic surgeon tomorrow. Wish me luck, goons.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 22:57
|
|
|
KingColliwog posted:One thing I love about climbing is that people are really chill. It can be a nice social experience to climb. I’ve been doing this for a bit over 2 months and have a bunch of gym buddies now. I used to suffer from heavy social anxiety though, so I can understand that it’s not easy at first. There's an attitude in climbing that to ascend something first try without having been told the moves (on-sight) is a greater achievement than to do it first try having been told the moves (flash) which is in turn a greater achievement than to ascend it having practiced the moves (redpoint). Other climbers might avoid coming over and telling you what works for fear of depriving you of the satisfaction of working it out for yourself. They'd secretly love nothing more than talk about how to do it though- you just need to ask.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2019 23:16
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:
They can probably help with improving extender strength (and thereby increasing your resiliency to injury), but probably unlikely to improve forearm strength
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 01:54
|
|
|
Am I doing this right? 
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 04:11
|
|
|
feet first, right also, I recognize that gym~
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 14:49
|
|
|
Hauki posted:feet first, right Yeah, haha. We had an ASCE event there (20ish folks under 35). Some people never climb, some good people. But they put up the obstacle course traverse and that was fun. You were supposed to go through the noodles but that was easy. So I went for a feet first under the noodles. And yeah ET Englewood.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 15:31
|
|
|
Went again last night with the intention of taking it easy / try to be more social. Ended up making friends with a cool couple and then one slightly better climber came over and we all helped each other, then one really good dude came over and he was a great instructor. Like not only helping with beta, but describing how to actually move your body. We ended up just loving around on a bunch of different problems, culminating on us trying some problem that hasn't been graded yet. You start in this weird Warrior 2 kind of pose and really have to sink into your legs and then jump to make this dyno. Was really fun because we all failed to do it statically at first and then I just jumped and nailed it; it felt so satisfying. Couldn't get the second move but I don't even care.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 15:34
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Yeah, haha. We had an ASCE event there (20ish folks under 35). Some people never climb, some good people. But they put up the obstacle course traverse and that was fun. You were supposed to go through the noodles but that was easy. So I went for a feet first under the noodles. Let me/us know when you're there. Just got that lead card. Suddenly feels like I'm climbing "for real".
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 16:40
|
|
|
Will do. I usually climb in Golden but might hit up the Englewood one a bit more (it is technically closer to where I live).
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 16:52
|
|
|
rich people ruin everything https://www.washingtonpost.com/worl...m=.f78b19911fbd
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 22:39
|
|
|
I can not seeing that being any fun at all. Just a train of people. Same reason I don't hike 14ers in Colorado.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2019 22:52
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:I can not seeing that being any fun at all. Just a train of people. Same reason I don't hike 14ers in Colorado. I tried to do one 14er last year and I didn't really find it fun at all.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2019 14:28
|
|
|
If you go hike something 13,900' it is exactly the same and basically no people
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2019 16:31
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:If you go hike something 13,900' it is exactly the same and basically no people Honestly I don't think I care about hiking at altitude. I'd rather do pretty things that don't exhaust me and arent cold as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2019 19:16
|
|
|
So I think I picked up my first ever pulley injury, lol. All the symptoms suggest it's an A2 pulley tweak on the middle finger of my left hand. I was pulling hard at a crappy angle, felt something twinge, it swelled up a bit, any kind of crimping hurt afterwards, and gently squeezing the A2 hurt too. No loud popping like you sometimes hear in videos though. I've never had this before so I'm curious about recovery times. Especially since it seems to be getting better remarkably quickly. I tweaked it 5 days ago and it feels almost back to normal already - applying pressure no longer hurts, really heavy gripping hurts but only a tiny bit. At this rate it *feels* like I'll be ready to go back to easy climbing in a day or two, but I'm wondering if that's deceptive. Most of what I've read online suggests either no climbing or only very soft, open-hand stuff for 4-6 weeks even for a slight tear rather than a full rupture. Is it possible I've just stretched the pulley or something without actually tearing it at all? Or is it normal for it to feel healed way before it actually is? Zephro fucked around with this message at 19:12 on May 28, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2019 18:53
|
|
|
You can try to tape up your finger to brace it but honestly it might be worth the time to let it rest and heal properly. I had an A-2 and an A-4 (opposite hands) that I tried to baby and climb through but really just dragged the healing process out for months. It sucks not being able to climb but even if it feels "okay" you might find a hold that destroys any progress you made healing. I'd probably give it another week before climbing on it just to be sure, and then take it easy on that side for a bit.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2019 20:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 17:56 |
|
|
OK, thanks. I guess it gives me a reason to finally start doing some proper core workouts instead (i hate core workouts)
Zephro fucked around with this message at 14:11 on May 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 29, 2019 14:04
|
|