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always be closing posted:I use 303 on everything including vinyl "leather" seats. New car has real leather, what does the thread recommend? Do you mean to clean them? Or keep them clean? I use 303 on my seats after a clean and find it keeps them clean way longer. As I mentioned above I’m doing my first Leatherique treatment right now, I can report back on how it goes tomorrow.
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May 4, 2019 03:26
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Red_Fred posted:I’m doing my first Leatherique treatment right now, I can report back on how it goes tomorrow. Stickily. (is that a word?) It gets better later.
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May 4, 2019 12:36
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Thanks for the recall. I just need to keep them clean. Looking forward to the leatherique post.
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May 5, 2019 00:15
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In spite of my neglect, the results are pretty good when I finally get around to doing a wash, clay bar, and seal. I don't want to own a black car again. 
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May 5, 2019 15:48
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MetaJew posted:In spite of my neglect, the results are pretty good when I finally get around to doing a wash, clay bar, and seal. Looks amazing when they're clean but my god black cars are filth magnets. Its extremely frustrating cause I live in a windy, dusty area so I can go through the motions of making that ride sparkle. Then I come out an hour later and its got a fresh coating of dust like I didn't just wash it.
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May 5, 2019 15:59
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Yeah I'm pretty sure that it already got dusty with a light breeze and the garage door open.
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May 5, 2019 18:50
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always be closing posted:Thanks for the recall. I just need to keep them clean. Looking forward to the leatherique post. Well it worked pretty well. I think my seats weren’t actually that dirty to begin with though. I had been using the Mothers stuff prior to this. I would say unless your leather is in bad shape now or is a light colour probably don’t bother. It’s expensive stuff and kinda of an annoying process. And Motronic is right, it gets sticky. Red_Fred fucked around with this message at 19:46 on May 5, 2019 |
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May 5, 2019 19:44
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Yeah, I don't use it for "regular maintenance" because of those two reasons.
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May 5, 2019 23:45
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This is what I've been using for regular seat maintenance: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guy...=gateway&sr=8-1 Seems to do a good job getting dye from jeans out.
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May 6, 2019 00:51
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RIP Paul Walker posted:This is what I've been using for regular seat maintenance: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guy...=gateway&sr=8-1 Seconding this stuff although I haven't used it on heavily soiled leather.
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May 6, 2019 01:53
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Here's my current car cleaning process: Every two weeks: wash with meguiars car wash Every month: wax with collinite 845 Every 6 months: clay bar Anything I should be doing differently? I'm mainly curious about the collinite, and whether I should be using something else.
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May 8, 2019 11:10
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Residency Evil posted:Here's my current car cleaning process: A popular combo is putting Jescar/Menzerna Powerlock under the Collonite. Usually stuff like that don't play well together, but this one is tried and true. Powerlock is a sealant, so in itself will last longer that Collonite. The wipe-off is insanely smooth as well. It's said that Powerlock should give 6 months proctection, and Collonite about 3 months, but that's very much down to proper application and proper washing. One thing you could do is start using a spray protectant as a drying aid after each wash. Helps safely dry the car and will add some protection and gloss. Beadmaker is very slick and glossy, but won't last very long (doesn't really matter if you apply it with every wash. Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer isn't as slick or glossy, but will last longer and give better protection. Can be diluted as well. Very highly regarded.
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May 8, 2019 11:23
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MrOnBicycle posted:A popular combo is putting Jescar/Menzerna Powerlock under the Collonite. Usually stuff like that don't play well together, but this one is tried and true. Powerlock is a sealant, so in itself will last longer that Collonite. The wipe-off is insanely smooth as well. It's said that Powerlock should give 6 months proctection, and Collonite about 3 months, but that's very much down to proper application and proper washing. Awesome, thanks. So every six months I'd be doing a long day of clay/powerlock/collinite?
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May 8, 2019 11:31
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Residency Evil posted:Awesome, thanks. So every six months I'd be doing a long day of clay/powerlock/collinite? That's what I would do under those circumstances. The other way to go would be ceramic coatings and all that jazz, but that also comes with a ton more initial cost and potential for becoming expensive in the long run. Also probably some iron fallout remover/tar remover etc before you clay if you are not doing that already. Helps to minimize marring from claying and makes sure you get more contaminants off. Matt from Obsessed garage has some videos on the combination. He's very overkill though, and the videos are long winded. ... and you have to get past that he comes across as an rear end in a top hat sometimes...
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May 8, 2019 14:15
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MrOnBicycle posted:That's what I would do under those circumstances. The other way to go would be ceramic coatings and all that jazz, but that also comes with a ton more initial cost and potential for becoming expensive in the long run. Thanks. What I need to figure out is what to do about my car's front end. It's a 2011 and had clear film applied to the front, front fenders, hood, and mirrors. The car is white and the film is yellowing. I think I'll probably have it paint corrected/touched up/clear film replaced, but I want to make sure I love the car as much as I think I do, as I imagine that's going to cost a decent amount.
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May 8, 2019 14:31
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Residency Evil posted:Awesome, thanks. So every six months I'd be doing a long day of clay/powerlock/collinite? Check out Ammos 101 series. Just dont get caught up on the products.
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May 10, 2019 17:23
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Hey, I know nothing about detailing or car paint or anything. Can anyone tell me what needs to be done to make this blemishing on my (new to me) 2005 Subaru not quite as visible? I'm assuming it's not something that would be fixed by bringing it to a normal detailing place? 
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May 11, 2019 19:25
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Kreez posted:Hey, I know nothing about detailing or car paint or anything. Can anyone tell me what needs to be done to make this blemishing on my (new to me) 2005 Subaru not quite as visible? I'm assuming it's not something that would be fixed by bringing it to a normal detailing place? That's clearcoat failure. You've lost the coating on the paint that makes it shine easily. No real fix other than respray. You can re-clear after polishing that will make it look 70% of a refinished panel, but you'll always see a difference. Depending on how much you care, I'd slap a few coats of ceramic on there and just try to stop it from spreading or getting worse.
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May 11, 2019 19:30
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EVERYWHERE 
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Replace with a junkyard hatch. PSM is a pretty common colour. Could also glue a waist spoiler from a JDM 02-03 STI wagon on there to cover it up 
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May 11, 2019 20:06
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Ok thanks, so nothing really to do with detailing, it's something I'd need a proper paint shop for then. I hate doing stuff related to sanding or painting, so I'll bring it somewhere to have the hatch repainted. While I'm sure I could find plenty of Impreza hatches in the junkyard, it's actually a 92x and the hatch is one of the unique bits on the car so I'd like to keep it that way. Aside from the paint having been horribly abused, the car is otherwise in great shape, not a trace of rust, and it's mechanically in amazing shape with only 80,000km, so I'm hoping to keep it for a while, and don't mind spending a bit of cash.
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May 11, 2019 21:39
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If you shop around you should be able to get the whole thing re-sprayed for 2-300
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May 11, 2019 21:55
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Definitely needs a huge gullwing bolted down over the failing clearcoat.
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May 12, 2019 17:52
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I have some clearcoat failure on the hood of my 9-2X too, and I've never seen anything similar on 05 Imprezas. Not sure what was going on there.
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May 12, 2019 18:00
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This seems like the best thread to ask I guess. I've got some things that need to be suction cupped to the windshield (inside). I've always had varying degrees of success with this (cleaning the windshield and cup with alcohol, just window cleaner, etc). Summer seems to knock these things off no matter what........other than one: a remote radio head mount that came with the cup covered in removable paper like a sticker. And it DID have adhesive on it. Its the only thing that has stayed on through a couple summer of baking. What is this stuff? Can I get it and put it on other things that didn't come with it.....and back on this thing if I move it? The rally computer I'm testing just lasted all of 8 hours before it fell off (I didn't clean the glass first, so my bad). Or am I just missing something here like "alcohol dries out the cup rubber you moron you should be using <x>"? E: also, what kind of tape should I be using to tape on magnet mount signs/numbers that need "extra help" to not fall off during a rally. Something that looks halfway decent. Only needs to be on for like 48 hours. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:48 on May 12, 2019 |
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May 12, 2019 23:44
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I have never paid much attention to it, but my wife has a suction cup sensor of some sort on the windshield for work access. I've never done anything other than a good Invisible Glass clean and stick the suction cup on. It's been over 2 years since I've moved it and it's on that windshield every day through -20* weather in the winter and 100*+ in the summer and it's never failed.
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May 12, 2019 23:58
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What does "body shop safe" mean with regards to detailing products? Specifically I'm looking for a wax of some sort to wax my car. I've had some paint work done to it, and the body shop guy said "don't use anything with silicone because it will something something something paint something". I don't recall what it was that he said, just to not use stuff with silicone. From my (very brief) time as a detailer at a GM dealer I also remember the body shop guys telling me to wait till I was away from the paint booth/prep area to spray certain poo poo, like tire dressings etc. So, anyway I've been looking at some places that sell various detailing products, and there are certain items that advertise as being "body shop safe". Is that the poo poo I should be using on my car? Or is that only relevant before the car has been painted?
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May 15, 2019 21:56
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wesleywillis posted:Or is that only relevant before the car has been painted? This. If you're not looking to have anything on your car resprayed in the near future, you're good with whatever. "Body shop safe" is just avoiding silicone and stuff like that which will fisheye and otherwise ruin resprays without a solid sanding.
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May 15, 2019 22:04
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Yeah, it's mainly advertising something to professionals, basically saying they can use these products in-between coats of paint without worrying about it messing up the finish. So, if someone's sanding the paint and then does a wipe down with Final Inspection to remove the sanding dust, that's not going to cause further coats to fail.
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May 15, 2019 22:47
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I need recommendations on how to clean and keep this car clean on an ongoing basis. Easily the nicest paint I have owned and I'm out of practice. How would you guys do it? It's (still) filthy right now from getting caught in weather on the drive back from CA, but it's supposed to get nice this weekend. I read the first page post but I don't want to strip the car down immediately, so I need recommendations on what soaps to use or not use, how to wash without grinding dirt into the paint, etc. FWIW, I'm on well water and have next to no detailing equipment at the moment, so assume I need to acquire just about everything. Also I believe the nose may have a clear wrap or coat of some kind, and all the chrome trim is wrapped.   
Tremek fucked around with this message at 20:10 on May 23, 2019 |
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May 23, 2019 20:08
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Tremek posted:I need recommendations on how to clean and keep this car clean on an ongoing basis. Easily the nicest paint I have owned and I'm out of practice. How would you guys do it? Wash wheels with their own bucket/wash mitt/wheel stuff. Two bucket (with grit guard) basic wash, car soap (megs or whomever), microfiber mitt. If you have a pressure washer, get a foam cannon (or get one of the hose attaching ones). Rinse the car, spray the car down with soapy water/foam. Wash from the top down. Rinse Dry (with or without drying aids) Wash glass. Enjoy your cleaner car. If you want to go hard, Larry has a pretty basic guidelines of steps/order https://www.ammonyc.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/AMMO_cleanChart_V3.pdf Once you've got the base clean done you can start looking deeper to see if it needs correction or more.
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May 23, 2019 20:40
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Does it have any coatings? If not, get it ceramic coated, then don't worry about anything other than quick washes for a while.
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May 23, 2019 20:49
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We bought a pressure washer last week, and after using it on the sidewalks I finally got to use the foam cannon I bought 2 years ago. Holy crap, I don't think our cars have ever been this clean.
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May 24, 2019 05:20
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I've watched a few videos by some English (Irish?) car detailer who does some exhausting work. For the casual, how is a foam cannon used? Is it in place of a bucket of soapy water, or is it some sort of soak before you then come back with a sponge/mit and bucket of soapy water? The way this guy used it seemed to be a separate step, among many others, before he actually touched it with his hands.
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May 24, 2019 06:00
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Foam cannon is basically step 1. You let the foam work for a few mins then rinse or immediately go into the touch wash. Ideally you rinse of course so all the dirt it has knocked loose doesn't get rubbed around.
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May 24, 2019 06:32
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MetaJew posted:I've watched a few videos by some English (Irish?) car detailer who does some exhausting work. For the casual, how is a foam cannon used? Is it in place of a bucket of soapy water, or is it some sort of soak before you then come back with a sponge/mit and bucket of soapy water? Basically two ways, either as a pre wash treatment to have as much dirt and grime "lifted off" as possible, then you rinse again and wash with mitts. The second ways is as a layer of lubricant that you then use when washing with mitts. Adams snow foam is the latter type of snow foam. That being said, as a general guideline it's basically more foam = less results. The market is hyped about super clingy foamy products that make for great videos/instagram posts. But as an actual cleaner it's pretty meh. Youtube channel Forensic detailing made a snow foam shootout test and found (not surprising) that Bilt Hambers Auto Foam is one of the best, if not the best snow foam of the ones he tried. Interestingly he also tested bare metal for rust after using the different foams. Many foams gave rise to (much) more surface rust than the control (water). IIRC Adams was pretty bad. Again, Bilt Hamber was great and had no rust. Not surprising though as the whole company is based on rust protection. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmVeTbarlH4
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May 24, 2019 07:26
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What's the implication between snow foam and rust formation? Wouldn't more rust mean that the foam stripped off whatever oil or protective coating was on the metal? Is that bad?
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May 24, 2019 07:38
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MetaJew posted:What's the implication between snow foam and rust formation? Wouldn't more rust mean that the foam stripped off whatever oil or protective coating was on the metal? Is that bad? It was rubbed onto bare metal in the test, so it likely has to do with some products (like Bilt Hamber) incorporating rust protection in their formula. It was then left for 24 hours. The Adams piece was almost covered in surface rust, while the water (control) piece only had very light surface rust. So the implication (IMO) isn't that they in some way remove rust protection (especially not Adams, which didn't perform well as a snow foam), but what happens if you didn't manage to rinse off the snow foam properly in some places and it sits on exposed metal. Bilt Hamber obviously have some rust protection in their formula, which isn't odd given what kind of company they are. Like I wouldn't ever want to spray Adams on my undercarriage if I wasn't 100% sure I'd be able to rinse it all off. I wish he would have tested the rusting after rinsing the test plates off as well, as it would show how long term use affect the car even when rinsing off.
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May 24, 2019 07:54
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Tremek posted:I need recommendations on how to clean and keep this car clean on an ongoing basis. Easily the nicest paint I have owned and I'm out of practice. How would you guys do it? Sorry a bit late. If you're driving into Orange County (which I doubt based on the snow pics) you can stop at detailing.com physical store. I did it when I bought my first new car last year since 2001 and was still using 1 sponge and a bucket. I explained I hadn't washed a car right ever and she set me up with the basics. There's several chemical guys stores here too. All they have is their stuff, but they were friendly and I never felt they pushed extra stuff I didn't need.
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May 25, 2019 04:43
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MrOnBicycle posted:Youtube channel Forensic detailing made a snow foam shootout test and found (not surprising) that Bilt Hambers Auto Foam is one of the best, if not the best snow foam of the ones he tried. I watched that and now I want to get the bilt-hamber stuff, but I can't in the states 
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May 27, 2019 01:37
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https://www.hstuning.com/car-care-and-wash-accessories/ Ordered car wash shampoo yesterday. They don't have the foam gun stuff, but I can use CG for the foam gun. E: Well, poo poo. You can order both from UK amazon if you use your US amazon sign in. If I like it, I'll order a bigger bottle of both from there. Evil SpongeBob fucked around with this message at 08:24 on May 27, 2019 |
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May 27, 2019 08:17
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