|
eh the overall plan is to just tweak it to the high 280s 300 range with an upgraded turbo. would def want to upgrade the stock brakes
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 00:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 21:26 |
|
|
Eyeballing it with a tape measure, looks like about a half inch of clearance for the caliper, radius wise, and about a quarter inch of clearance offset wise for the wilwood kit and these '06 focus rims. It'll fill them out nicely. ( I think)
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 00:18
|
|
|
SeaGoatSupreme posted:
Previous owners ,(separate people) on both our Land Cruisers went down to 15s from the OEM 16s. I don't know why they did it but they did!
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 00:23
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:Previous owners ,(separate people) on both our Land Cruisers went down to 15s from the OEM 16s. I don't know why they did it but they did! Tire availability, I'd guess.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 00:32
|
|
|
poo poo i thought this was the hot hatch thread sorry guys
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 00:41
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:Ahh so there is where the F78 LWB change comes from, at the B pillar. You can use a Feroza/Rocky rear door to make the top removable with the rear glass. I missed this earlier, whoops! Yeah the extra length shows itself just behind the doors. The idea of mounting a Rocky door on the back to have the top down is neat but I can probably just buy a whole Rocky for what it would cost in time, effort and money to find a rear door in comparable condition, at least it would seem so with how rare they are here in the US and whatever it would cost to ship from overseas. In being reminded of your Rocky though I'm wondering what getting some turquoise vinyl and wrapping just the top like yours. I've got a body line like yours, though mine goes over the fenders. Something to think about, along with putting some other sort of graphics on the side.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 04:44
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:I missed this earlier, whoops! The various graphics options I've seen were 16 VALVE and D A I H A T S U in the US, and a few other ones elsewhere. I do have pints of both colors if you want an actual color chip to match from, I'll gladly send you one.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 05:27
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:Previous owners ,(separate people) on both our Land Cruisers went down to 15s from the OEM 16s. I don't know why they did it but they did! FWIW, I've owned two cars that are the same year/make/model, but different trims. One had 16s on alloys, the other has 15s on steelies. When I first got the second car, I thought it felt a bit quicker, but couldn't pinpoint why - they had almost all the same options (current one is missing foglights and automatic headlights vs the old one, also has black face gauges instead of white face gauges - so no real weight difference; the heaviest option is probably the sunroof, and both have one). Then I went to swap the alloys over, and saw just how much taller overall the 16s were. Also realized how much heavier they were. The old one got scrapped with the alloys instead of steelies. That extra weight and that extra 2/3 of an inch in diameter makes a very noticeable difference (probably the weight more than anything), and the extra tiny bit of sidewall makes it a little more comfortable. Also, tires are significantly cheaper for it with 15s. Obviously can't get anything performance oriented, but it's a loving Saturn, it'll snap in half if I try to track it (if it doesn't let the rods escape first).
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 06:27
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:The various graphics options I've seen were 16 VALVE and D A I H A T S U in the US, and a few other ones elsewhere. I do have pints of both colors if you want an actual color chip to match from, I'll gladly send you one. Might take you up on that, and as for graphics I'd probably just make something in the style of what they were before  Or with what the back of the tire cover says  Lots of options and a nice defined font. Just gotta pick the colors but absolutely going in the pink/teal/purple/white zone. STR posted:FWIW, I've owned two cars that are the same year/make/model, but different trims. One had 16s on alloys, the other has 15s on steelies. I suspect it's a combo of style, tire cost and ~offroad~ cred.   Get some fresh new wheels, more sidewall for all the offroad you gotta do, and cheaper tires to boot. And yeah man they are cheaper, and easier to get white letters, the most important part.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 08:17
|
|
|
On the 4Runner last night I ran new speaker wire for both doors. There are cutouts for speakers in the rear, it just looks like they didn't put new ones in when the original stereo was replaced. Not sure what receiver is in it, there are 150W Blauplunkt speakers in the doors now. The stereo now produces sound from both sides! No clue if we'll be able to hear it over the exhaust noise. The antenna mast had broken out at the threads in its mount. I thought I might be able to get it out and just replace the mast, but no dice, the whole thing is pretty shot. I ordered a new one from Antenna Masts R Us as a replacement. As a lunchtime project today I finally got the rear lower trim and mudflapes installed. I guess not super necessary, but between that and the mud flaps, hopefully it will help protect a bit. Also, I believe it butts up to the fender flares that came with it that need to be installed.   At some point I'll need to take a closer look at the exhaust. I haven't seen any holes rusted through it, however, I think this is the source of the loudness when under load: 
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 18:42
|
|
|
nadmonk posted:At some point I'll need to take a closer look at the exhaust. I haven't seen any holes rusted through it, however, I think this is the source of the loudness when under load: I take that back, that joint actually seemed pretty solid. However, the whole thing seems to have a lot of play in it coming from the front. Where the exhaust connected to the header, one of the saddle clamps was basically freely moving around. After cracking that off, here's what I found: https://i.imgur.com/jzQX08I.gifv I've ordered a sleeve clamp, so I'm hoping that helps the noise.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 19:34
|
|
|
You need to fix that for real. That exhaust leak close to the front of the cabin means you're going to get exhaust in the cabin. If you can, take it to a muffler shop and have them replace the whole thing.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 20:34
|
|
|
Not to be mean, but given what I think I'm seeing in terms of rust and "rust repair", maybe replace the whole truck. Yikes. edit: Wait this is the truck your sister? bought without consulting you or looking underneath, wasn't it? Or was that someone else?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 20:40
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Not to be mean, but given what I think I'm seeing in terms of rust and "rust repair", maybe replace the whole truck. Yikes. That must be someone else. This was a truck my girlfriend and I bought just for fun. Also, Michigan truck for a good chunk of its life, so believe it or not, the rust really isn't too bad for the age.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 20:52
|
|
|
That's hardly rusty. I'm angry you are wasting money on an expensive-rear end sleeve clamp when a beer can and muffler putty will get you there.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 21:00
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:That's hardly rusty. I'm angry you are wasting money on an expensive-rear end sleeve clamp when a beer can and muffler putty will get you there. Sorry, I was weak. The next exhaust leak I get, I promise I'll reach for a beer first.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 21:03
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:That's hardly rusty. I'm angry you are wasting money on an expensive-rear end sleeve clamp when a beer can and muffler putty will get you there. poo poo, around here, they just wack the exhaust off and run open headers.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 21:12
|
|
|
flo groan?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 21:13
|
|
|
nadmonk posted:I take that back, that joint actually seemed pretty solid. 22RE, right? I think that's supposed to be a flanged joint  Darchangel posted:Wait this is the truck your sister? bought without consulting you or looking underneath, wasn't it? Or was that someone else? That was PainterofCrap.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2019 21:20
|
|
|
Shameless crosspost, but I'm tickled by nice it looks without the rice and with some wax.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2019 01:42
|
|
|
Slam it with the wheels tucked and it'd look the balls.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2019 08:48
|
|
|
Changed the oil. It was a bit overdue (about 500 miles past the "CHANGE OIL" message popping up - the GM oil life monitor pops it around 8-11k depending how I drive it, and I always run Mobil 1 High Mileage), and a little low (a bit over 3.5 quarts came out, it holds 5; it's a 4 cylinder that's not particularly high revving, so being about 1.25 quarts low doesn't really bother me), but that was the norm on Saturd (same engine) for every oil change from 60k to over 200k. The oil looked fine in the pan. Then I poured it into a container, and saw some decent metal chunks in the pan (a brand new pan, never used for anything before). It uses a cartridge filter; the glitter between the pleats was immediately obvious when I pulled it. So, yeah. It's looking for knock knock jokes. That 98 Corolla w/3 speed auto a friend has been trying to unload on me for awhile suddenly looks a lot more attractive. Aside from having a cracked AC condenser and being parked for 4 years.  Negative Ions isn't telling knock knock jokes yet, but judging by what I saw, it will be very soon. We'll see how far I can talk him down; it's gonna need all new fluids, there's no telling what kind of condition the fuel system is in, and it definitely needs tires and a battery.EDIT: well poo poo, he doesn't know his own car. I just got the VIN. It's a 2004 LE. That's a lot more attractive for the price. Still an automatic Corolla, but I think by 04 they'd moved to a 4 speed auto... right? Especially on the upmarket LE?
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:31 on May 31, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2019 08:52
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:22RE, right? I think that's supposed to be a flanged joint It is indeed a 22RE. However, the previous, previous owner did a fair amount of work on it. About 100,000 miles ago they put in a Downey header and 2.5" exhaust system, which as far as I can tell didn't have a flange. Another 10,000 miles after that they did an engine rebuild. According to his notes: """ Bored block w/ 1.00mm over pistons. 0.50 mm over rods and mains. Clevite 77 bearings. Rebuilt head w/ new intake and exhaust valves, HD springs, Engnbldr 268 degree cam, new timing chain, gears, tensioner, steel guide, new water pump, rebuilt injectors, new motor mounts, new trans mount, all new coolant hoses, new vacuum lines, new fuel filter, new radiator, 120 amp Mr. Alternator alt, new belts, removed all a/c bits, new oil pump, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, POR 15 all coolant and EGR tubes, Wix oil filter, straight 30 oil for break in, ZDDP zinc additive, fresh 50/50 green coolant, new urethane shifter bushings from Marlin Crawler. """ nadmonk fucked around with this message at 12:46 on May 31, 2019 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2019 12:44
|
|
|
Who knew having a pro do the tint would look better.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2019 21:53
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Who knew having a pro do the tint would look better. Much like a wash and polish, a tint can join st make a car look so much better.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2019 23:05
|
|
|
I'm prepping a '93 RWD Geo Tracker softtop for the Tennessee Gambler 500! My buddy and I replaced the leaking oil pan gasket, which, as it turns out, was actually an entire tube of silicone lovingly bukkaked on by a Meineke in rural NC. 18 bolts coated in silicone, Two trips to Advanced Auto, two hours of scraping and sanding later, and we have a well-sealed oilpan that will certainly hold up far longer than any other part other than the engine itself (which was rebuilt last year). There was silicone leaking out, leaking in, stuck in globs on the bottom of the oilpan, and now it's gone, replaced by a cork gasket and a light dab of RTV. The oil had a good bit of silt/metal/god knows what inside it when we drained it, but it's clean, and the car runs about as well as to be expected for an exactly $500 driving '93 Geo in TYOOL 2019, and the car itself is a dangerous hoot. Oh, and after driving it around the block, a hole in the radiator return line is spraying coolant. That's a cheap fix, but not one I'd expected as they said the radiator was brand new. The hoses attached to it certainly are not. Don't think I'm complaining, I think this car was a loving steal at $500 and I love it to death for what it is: ~80hp of raw, angry, faded orange power. Next up: a 2" lift kit, cheap chinese mud tires, plugging a giant hole in the airbox, and something spraypaint-stenciled on the side indicating our intention to drink and yell at a campsite in Tennessee and ruin 2300lbs of Canadian/Japanese/American pot metal.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2019 23:32
|
|
|
Grabbed my obd dongle and my laptop. Did a tpms and shift light delete on my FiST. I am so much happier with it now that I'm not getting idiot lights flashing at me all the time. All hail forscan.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 01:26
|
|
|
Ragtop Samurai/Trackers/Sidekicks are hilariously light for body-on-frame vehicles. Sportages too
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 01:42
|
|
|
 This thing runs like poo poo and boy that’s a lotta unburned fuel  oh lol https://imgur.com/gallery/me7sgf1 Album has videos
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 01:56
|
|
|
As long as that didnt eat away any of the traces, you can solder in another capacitor with the same capacitance and at least the same voltage rating.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 02:27
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:Ragtop Samurai/Trackers/Sidekicks are hilariously light for body-on-frame vehicles. Yep! It's a bundle of fun, even if it isn't 4wd and it's slow as poo poo. The lightness really helps. Like, if a miata is a big go-kart this is a big golf-cart.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 07:20
|
|
|
You know the saying "it's a lot more fun to try and drive a slow car fast", right?  I fully agree with it. https://www.thrillist.com/cars/why-slow-cars-are-more-fun-than-fast-cars
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 07:41
|
|
|
... and then you realize that what americans mean by "slow" is 250hp-300hp and you are sitting in your 89hp euro shitbox trying to find where the fun is at. (Kidding) Seriously though, my 155hp small hatchback is very fun to toss about. The other one has 170hp and does 0-100km/h in 7.8 seconds and if also pretty fun. Glacial by american standards but probably faster than average in Sweden. I got 0,55L/100km on my last drive though. I am feeling the creeping urge to have faster acceleration, which is also eliminating like 90% of cars I can afford / would want if I decide to get something else. Including all hydbrids except like a 10-15 year old Lexus GS (which kinda defeats the purpose of an hybrid) and all EVs except super expensive Model S's.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 07:55
|
|
|
Went to the junkyard and got a new buckle for the Volvo. Only $10. I'll need to give it a clean and a quick coat of black paint before install.  Cleaned the throttle body on the civic and now low idle is smooth and no more stickiness on tip in. Changed the oil on the GF's Camry, but the oil filter canister is still being a piece of poo poo and refuses to come off. I'll let it roll one interval and get a 1/2"-3/8" adapter for my breaker bar by then. On the plus side, the Fumoto valve is installed and good to go.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 20:22
|
|
|
Today I installed a trailer hitch. It didn't require any drilling - just drop the exhaust, wedge the hitch in, and bolt it back up using the original hardware. Easy. Didn't even have to lift the car. The instructions said to tighten the original bolts back up to 49 ft-lbs. At about 25 ft-lbs, the head came off the bolt. Today I also successfully used an extractor for the first time. I'm happier about this than having a hitch and a bike rack. My kiddo helped out and I didn't even have to teach him any new curse words.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 23:11
|
|
|
Got sent the wrong iacv. Gonna just junkyard one up, I'm not paying the ridiculous prices for the proper one new.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 23:33
|
|
|
havelock posted:Today I installed a trailer hitch. It didn't require any drilling - just drop the exhaust, wedge the hitch in, and bolt it back up using the original hardware. Easy. Didn't even have to lift the car. The instructions said to tighten the original bolts back up to 49 ft-lbs. At about 25 ft-lbs, the head came off the bolt. 25 ft/lb and the bolt failed? Jesus. I'd be worried about the other ones. Are they made from powder?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 23:36
|
|
|
SeaGoatSupreme posted:Got sent the wrong iacv. when i need a used part that is kinda expensive used i tend to just search for entire assemblies on ebay as it generally comes out cheaper and it means more spares of other related parts
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2019 23:39
|
|
|
Out with the old (one that didn't fall off) In with the new 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 00:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 21:26 |
|
|
I tried using one of these torches on that hub, got it really hot but still not coming loose. I'm going to take the inboard boot off and pull the tripod thing out. Once that's freed I'll try using my shop press on the end stuck in the hub. Those driveshafts are only $40-50 on rockauto, so I don't need to worry about ruining the old one.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2019 01:41
|
|