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MrYenko posted:And keep in mind that if you can’t find the right connector, just get both ends of any connector with the correct number of pins and wire gauge, and change both ends. Yeah, was gonna suggest this. Can't really tell from the picture what connector it is and if the motor has a pigtail that another connector could be soldered to though.
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Jun 2, 2019 23:13
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melon cat posted:Yeah I've heard that about spring compressors. Dangerous poo poo. And if the swaybar end links are probably rusty then I'm willing to be that my stabilizer links probably are, too. I'm just really leery of aftermarket parts because I've had issues with fit whenever I went aftermarket (gently caress aftermarket radiator hoses). But if KYB Quickstruts are really close to OEM I might consider it. Just do the quickstruts. Worth every penny over doing struts individually. I did my wife's Elantra with quickstruts and it took like 15 minutes a corner. I'll never do it the old way again. You also get new strut mounts out of it.
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Jun 2, 2019 23:15
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MrYenko posted:You can generally get a socket or wrench and a breaker bar on the crank snout, and turn it that way once you pull the plugs. You don't even need to pull the plugs. Just get a breaker bar + cheater and socket on the crank bolt. This works on almost anything. Access issues are a thing, and you may not be able to do it from the top and/or without the right size extension. Sometimes you have to go from the bottom (and potentially take pans off) but this is a super normal and common thing to do on most cars/motors because you don't pull a motor to get it to TDC to do a timing belt/chain job.
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Jun 3, 2019 02:32
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I need to pull the plugs because I’m doing a compression and leakdown test, so if that makes it easier so much the better. I’m pretty sure that it’s a 5/8” socket from what I’ve read, does that seem right to anyone that’s worked with them? Turns out the spark plug socket I have from doing my EJ22 is 21mm, which I think is 13/16 or something like that. I read 14mm one place but I think that was the thread in the block to screw in the spark plugs rather than the wrench size, I put a long 14mm socket down there and it didn’t catch. I don’t hugely care about being gentle with the old ones since I want to put new ones in anyway just because it’s about time and if I can get the car up to date on everything before we split I’ll feel good about at least going our separate ways with her having reliable transportation. Also, when I popped the radiator cap a little coolant dribbled out. Is that normal? Maybe a couple tablespoons, the overflow tank hose does go above the cap so maybe there was a bit in the hose and it just flowed down once the pressure was released? I don’t know, I’ve forgotten half of the physics I’ve taken.
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Jun 3, 2019 02:57
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Motronic posted:You don't even need to pull the plugs. Just get a breaker bar + cheater and socket on the crank bolt. This works on almost anything. It's also normal to be manipulating the crank around to line up everything TDC only for it to overshoot  22 Eargesplitten posted:
Absolutely normal.
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Jun 3, 2019 03:36
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spankmeister posted:Yeah, was gonna suggest this. Can't really tell from the picture what connector it is and if the motor has a pigtail that another connector could be soldered to though. Here is what it looks like. However I do not possess a soldering iron nor the requisite skills to use one. Splicing wires I can do.   
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Jun 3, 2019 04:52
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vulturesrow posted:Here is what it looks like. However I do not possess a soldering iron nor the requisite skills to use one. Splicing wires I can do. No pigtail available from say Rockauto? 22 Eargesplitten posted:I need to pull the plugs because I’m doing a compression and leakdown test, so if that makes it easier so much the better. Why screw with metric, I would think it would be 5/8. And take a good peak down where the head of plug is. You will be amazed how much "crap/dirt" will keep a socket from going on. If that's the case, you need to blow it out.
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Jun 3, 2019 05:53
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C-Bangin' it 
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2015 Kia Optima. I've had it for almost 3.5 years, and it just passed the 46K mile mark. I'm overdue for my 45K and probably an oil change. (I also need my front brake pads replaced, but that's another issue that I feel more confident about tackling) I feel like a total dumbass for asking this, but where should I go? I feel like my dealership won't try to gently caress me over, except on the price. I hear that a bunch of the inspection items are free, and the biggest issue is oil and filter changes. Thanks for whatever info you can give me.
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Jun 3, 2019 06:07
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ThatSinkingFeeling posted:2015 Kia Optima. I've had it for almost 3.5 years, and it just passed the 46K mile mark. I'm overdue for my 45K and probably an oil change. Explain the whole won't try to gently caress me over except on the price comment.
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Jun 3, 2019 06:35
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melon cat posted:Question about strut replacements (front + rear) on my 2007 Corolla LE. So I'm going to DIY it. I originally intended on doing quickstruts but decided to go OEM and rent a strut compressor (probably a terrible idea but I swear by OEM). Bushings, bushings, BUSHINGS. But seriously, on an 07 Corolla, you're not gonna notice much of a difference between good quality quickstruts and OEM (KYB). FWIW, my mother had KYB quickstruts put on the front, and plain old KYB on the rear (with spring compressors), and her car rides like it's nearly new (2003 Toyota Avalon). No "jacked up" front or rear. Also FWIW, if I were to do quickstruts again, I'd skip Moog and go to Gabriel - they're still easy to get, and generally okay quality. Moog doesn't actually make their own quickstruts. melon cat posted:Definitely! Also forgot to ask- is there a point in replacing the actual suspension spring in addition to the strut cartridge? It looks more or less okay. But yeah... 12 year old vehicle in the rustbelt. The springs DO sag over time, but only an alignment shop can tell you how bad they're sagging. A good alignment shop will be able to tell you if it's got a case of the saggy rear end. i had a ~200k salvage Civic that I took to a shop, and they basically said "so the springs are sagging too much for us to really do a real alignment....". I told them "if you can do 'close nuff" and get the toe set, I'm good". They said "no problem!". Less than 30 minutes later, I drove out with a car that tracked perfectly, it just ate the inside edges of the tires a bit (Hondas of that era use double wishbone, which will eat the inside edge if it's lowered or saggy). It's very obvious on my car - I did quickstruts on the front, and just shocks on the rear. It was pretty level before; the front end sits a bit higher now. I only did this because the only way to remove the rear springs is to unbolt the rear trailing arms, then lift it until they go BOING OW MY EVERYTHING, BUT ESPECIALLY MY EYEBULBS wait how did that huge hole wind up in the ceiling?!? FWIW, I used Moog quick struts on the front. They're definitely not made by Moog, i have no idea who made them, but the fronts seem decent. I used AC Delco Professional (which is essentially" AC Delco branded parts" from a parts store; OEM on my car would be AC Delco OEM or Sachs) on the rear, and they're already dead. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go with Gabriel quickstruts. KYG is your OEM, but it's hard to find quickstruts from them unless you have a Toyota. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Jun 3, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 09:29
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I bought a small used truck (1993 Toyota pickup 4wd, 22re 4 cyl engine) in great shape which I love but the mileage has been abysmal. Averaging 13.5 mpg on the highway in 2wd calculated using the odometer. The stock tires were 225/75r15 (which would be 28.3/8.9 inches) but now it has 31/10.5" tires on there so adjusting the odometer for the larger diameter means I'm really getting 14-15 mpg. Still well below the 20 mpg on the sticker. Browsing the various Toyota forums, people seem to be getting in the upper teens to low 20s even on these 25+ year old trucks. I'd be happy with 17-18 in order to get another ~50 miles per tank. Would ~3" taller and 1.5" wider tires would make that big of a difference?
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Jun 3, 2019 21:30
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It's more complicated than that. https://itstillruns.com/tire-size-vs-gas-mileage-5587784.html
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Jun 3, 2019 22:18
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How do I remove this screw from my side mirror? It's a 1997 Ford F250 HD with the folding mirrors. A PO put on extensions that I'd like to remove. They wobble and are poo poo. This mirror spins freely on that arm anyway. The torx is stripped, I can't even tighten it. If I manage to get a grip on it, the mirror mount ball just spins in its housing. I don't know what that mount ball is made of, but I can't get a grip on it either with Channelocks. Any bright ideas?
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Jun 3, 2019 22:36
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Goddamn you guys know your struts. Alright so it looks like I'm doing struts, tie rods, lower ball joint, stabilizer links, and sway bar bushings. Looks like I'll be accumulating a nice "little" collection of specialty tools since the local retailers don't lend them out. And you've all sold me on quick struts.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 23:11
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So one of the back tires on my 2001 Cavalier has been looking squishy. I went to put air in it, and found the source of the leak: the valve tube has cracked away and was slow-leaking. Wrestling the air hose onto the valve has just made matters worse, it's now an audible hiss and only 15 minutes later it's clearly visible that she's going flat. I managed to get her up to 30 psi and raced her home Is this something that requires a whole new tire, or is it patchable? I ask because I have "I'm a woman and the tire shop is totally gonna rip me off because of that" paranoia. I know my way around under the hood, but I've never really messed with tires aside from putting the donut on once in the middle of a blizzard.
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Jun 3, 2019 23:22
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JacquelineDempsey posted:So one of the back tires on my 2001 Cavalier has been looking squishy. I went to put air in it, and found the source of the leak: the valve tube has cracked away and was slow-leaking. Wrestling the air hose onto the valve has just made matters worse, it's now an audible hiss and only 15 minutes later it's clearly visible that she's going flat. I managed to get her up to 30 psi and raced her home They have to peel the tire off the wheel to change out the valve but it shouldn't need a new tire unless there's another leak in there that you can't see from outside.
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Jun 3, 2019 23:30
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Colostomy Bag posted:Explain the whole won't try to gently caress me over except on the price comment. Fair. In my area, a couple dealers got busted for jacking up their prices more than usual. We're talking $95 for an oil change, and charging for the brake and battery inspection. With fees and labor, one dealer tried to charge $250. So I guess I'm just trying to figure out what my best option for my oil change and inspections are. I feel really stupid.
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Jun 4, 2019 00:15
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Anyone know the best way to figure out which accessory is grinding? My 89 Golf has been making a low growling/grinding bearing noise since I've owned it and I can't pinpoint if it's the AC or alternator as they are next to each other and the noise is intermittent. The socket extension trick was inconclusive likely due to the two sharing a bracket and it seems loudest right after switching the AC off (which also turns off the cooling fans) in the car but can happen at any time. Normal AC cycling doesn't seem to affect the noise.
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Jun 4, 2019 00:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:They have to peel the tire off the wheel to change out the valve but it shouldn't need a new tire unless there's another leak in there that you can't see from outside. A good tire shop can do a stem in about ten minutes. No more than a $20-$30 service (Dismount, Replace Valve Stem, Mount, Balance). melon cat posted:Goddamn you guys know your struts. Alright so it looks like I'm doing struts, tie rods, lower ball joint, stabilizer links, and bushings. Looks like I'll be accumulating a nice "little" collection of specialty tools since the local retailers don't lend them out. And you've all sold me on quick struts. Unless you have some funky poo poo going on, if you're doing quickstruts the most you're gonna need as far as "specialty" might be a ball-joint popper (for popping your L/U CA BJ and TRE BJ). Otherwise it should all be sockets, wrenches, and some new cotter pins (for you castle nuts on TRE/BJ). For what it's worth I just loosen the ball joints, give the BJ socket a couple w-hacks with the 2-lb sledge, and she pops out. However, I live in Florida; if you live in the rust belt, get the ball joint tool, and get ready for some drama. Autoexec.bat posted:Anyone know the best way to figure out which accessory is grinding? My 89 Golf has been making a low growling/grinding bearing noise since I've owned it and I can't pinpoint if it's the AC or alternator as they are next to each other and the noise is intermittent. The socket extension trick was inconclusive likely due to the two sharing a bracket and it seems loudest right after switching the AC off (which also turns off the cooling fans) in the car but can happen at any time. Normal AC cycling doesn't seem to affect the noise. Slide the belt off and give 'em a whirl with your fingers. If it's bad enough to make noise, it's generally bad enough you can feel it even with no load on the bearing. Otherwise, just wait for it to get a bit worse, and I imagine it will become more obvious. Is the tensioner or an idler also in the area? Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 03:00
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Colostomy Bag posted:No pigtail available from say Rockauto? Persistence pays off. Is parts geek reputable?? https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2006/chrysler/pt_cruiser/body_electrical/power_window_motor_connector.html
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Jun 4, 2019 05:42
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vulturesrow posted:Persistence pays off. Is parts geek reputable?? I've never dealt with them personally, but they've been around for years, so... maybe?
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Jun 4, 2019 09:50
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'96 Toyota Starlet Car wouldn't start Monday morning, pretty sure battery was dead. I had driven a fair bit on Saturday, parked it for a few hours, then started it without incident a few hours later so I could move it out of the way and get my motorbike into the shed. I am almost positive I didn't leave the lights on, but it was early and I may have messed around with them, I might be wrong. Hoping for this, rather than a bad alternator or something. edit: just finished charging, so I took it out and connected it up. Got a reluctant start that all but killed the headlights while it cranked - bad battery? Turned it off and back on again, same thing. Wouldn't surprise me if the battery was at the end of its life - came with the car and has been flattened a couple times since I've had it (letting it sit for a month+). opengl128 posted:Just do the quickstruts. Worth every penny over doing struts individually. I did my wife's Elantra with quickstruts and it took like 15 minutes a corner. I'll never do it the old way again. I know OP's already decided to do them, but +1 for quick struts. I did mine the cheap way (borrowed the spring compressor from my old work) two years ago because I was broke and it was a $500 car... was nerve wracking and took a whole afternoon because I was inexperienced and being being super careful. Lived to tell the tale and felt accomplished to have done it, but I'd cough up for the quick struts now that I'm a little better off (and more time-poor). Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 10:33
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Beach Bum posted:Slide the belt off and give 'em a whirl with your fingers. If it's bad enough to make noise, it's generally bad enough you can feel it even with no load on the bearing. Otherwise, just wait for it to get a bit worse, and I imagine it will become more obvious. It uses an old school V belt system so there isn't a tensioner/idler. I think I'll just wait for it to get worse as removing the belts requires removing the water pump pully to even access the relevant belts.
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Jun 4, 2019 12:44
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kid sinister posted:How do I remove this screw from my side mirror? It's a 1997 Ford F250 HD with the folding mirrors. A PO put on extensions that I'd like to remove. They wobble and are poo poo. This mirror spins freely on that arm anyway. The torx is stripped, I can't even tighten it. If I manage to get a grip on it, the mirror mount ball just spins in its housing. I don't know what that mount ball is made of, but I can't get a grip on it either with Channelocks. Throw in the towel for a new one.
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Jun 4, 2019 14:46
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vulturesrow posted:Persistence pays off. Is parts geek reputable?? Rock auto has it for $23. STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S2052 {#5017117AA, S1908} Interesting what else it fits.
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Jun 4, 2019 14:50
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ThatSinkingFeeling posted:Fair. We are all stupid here.  Problem becomes out of ten recommendations there will be a couple that are good. I guess start with googling import independants and reading some reviews to give you a gauge. And don't be dissuaded by what a place looks like. The place I take my car to looks like the set of Sanford and Son yet handles $200,000+ cars all the time because they are good and don't gently caress people over. The waiting area looks like an entrance to a Soviet gulag.
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Jun 4, 2019 15:24
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This is definitely a stupid question. I bought a used 370z last year and I love it. Intending to go full NA build, as the first car I'm ever modifying. I've done intake and just bought a full catback (to replace the droney axleback eBay exhaust it came with). Next up is probably high flow cats, since my county does emissions testing and I like not smelling gas 100% of the time I drive anyway. I was recommended to get it tuned at the same time as the HFCs. The tuner would be Soho Motorsports, they offer an "NC BBQ" tune for extra, which, of course, shoots flames. 1. Does that damage anything? 2. How much louder is that backfire than normal exhaust pop and crackle? I want to enjoy myself, I don't really want to be a shithead when I commute in it.
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Jun 4, 2019 20:29
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The only way you're shooting flames from the exhaust is by sending unburnt fuel down it. So you're looking at higher wear on the cats and worse mileage. Depending on the flame size, you might be looking at a droopy bumper cover as well .
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Jun 4, 2019 21:15
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Update on my accessory noise, the car now drops to 400rpm when the AC is on at idle and randomly does what feels like engine braking intermittently when driving. I'm thinking that would be the AC at that point unless anyone knows a reason it would be otherwise? Surprisingly the noise has not gotten louder.
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Jun 4, 2019 22:51
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Sounds like a shot IAC valve.
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Jun 5, 2019 00:14
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Colostomy Bag posted:Throw in the towel for a new one. I've determined you're right. I ordered 2 from LMC Truck. A Resto company should have good ones, right? All the reviews I've found elsewhere for cheap ones say they suck. Still, I wonder how the installers installed them back in the day if there was nothing on the mirror base to back up your wrench with to tighten them on. New project: flush the cooling system. I decided to top off the coolant and when took off the radiator cap, it was really low and full of orange gunk. So I decided to drain it. The petcock (ha ha) didn't drain until almost completely removed it. Even then, more came out of valve than the drain hole. Has anyone pulled the block drain plugs on a Ford 460 before? I read somewhere that one is under the starter. What are the steps for a flush anyway? Pull those drain plugs, take the water neck and thermostat out, then shove a garden hose down there? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 00:16
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Geoj posted:Sounds like a shot IAC valve. I'll check that but I hope not, last time I had to get the ISV(IAC) for this car I had to import it from Germany. It would be cheaper and easier if it was the compressor. Edit: Welp, according to what I'm reading yeah, the valve's going bad. Guess I have to go find another one  .
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 00:22
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Ethics_Gradient posted:edit: just finished charging, so I took it out and connected it up. Got a reluctant start that all but killed the headlights while it cranked - bad battery? Turned it off and back on again, same thing. Wouldn't surprise me if the battery was at the end of its life - came with the car and has been flattened a couple times since I've had it (letting it sit for a month+). That battery is super dead.
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Jun 5, 2019 04:56
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Autoexec.bat posted:Update on my accessory noise, the car now drops to 400rpm when the AC is on at idle and randomly does what feels like engine braking intermittently when driving. I'm thinking that would be the AC at that point unless anyone knows a reason it would be otherwise? Surprisingly the noise has not gotten louder. With the random engine braking with the AC on, that might be the AC kicking in and out, and the compressor may be on its last legs. Normally you shouldn't really notice it cycling while driving, unless the car is pretty underpowered to begin with. I'm kinda leaning toward compressor myself. You can't spin just the pulley to find out either - you need to (with the engine off, doesn't matter if the belt is on or off) spin the center portion. It should be a little difficult, and you may feel it move through each stroke (so it'll be a bit harder to turn on a compression stroke), but it shouldn't feel rough, nor should it bind up. If it's gritty at all or feels like it's hitting a hard stop, stop using the AC until you can replace the compressor. Or, if you recently had the AC serviced, it may very well be significantly overcharged.
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Jun 5, 2019 05:34
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if I'm trying to get my car vinyl wrapped a different color, what should I look for in a shop to make sure they know their poo poo? I've been quoted anywhere from 1700 - 4000 dollars for my car, which is a tiny 2 door coupe. If anyone cares the color I'm trying to do is either Avery SW900-681 Dark Blue:  or Avery SW900-623M Night Blue Mettalic:  I also don't know what the maintenance/upkeep is for those things to keep them from peeling/fading, and I also don't know if matte is harder to take care of vs gloss or vice versa. Also feel free to call my taste horrible or w/e, but I think matte can look good sometimes 
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Jun 5, 2019 06:52
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STR posted:With the random engine braking with the AC on, that might be the AC kicking in and out, and the compressor may be on its last legs. Normally you shouldn't really notice it cycling while driving, unless the car is pretty underpowered to begin with. I'll check that but it is doing the random engine braking with the AC turned off. May just be the ISV letting extra air through randomly though since the almost stalling symptoms match according to some vehicle specific diagnostics. Also the AC system is a pretty old R12 design and you do notice a change in power with the AC on vs off.
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Jun 5, 2019 12:48
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I finally got a 5/8” spark plug socket (and promptly found another in with my other sockets  ) but my only extension is about an inch or two too short to clear the valve cover over the cams. Does anyone have any cheaty ways to get around that problem? It gets out of the spark plug wire hole but once I put my ratchet’s drive in it basically has to be directly between the camshaft bulges and can’t move enough to actually rotate the socket. I tried grabbing the extension with a pair of pliers and twisting, but they’re just slipping off the extension. I can’t afford an extension set until Friday.I don’t have a 1/2” to 3/8” drive adapter, otherwise I could very awkwardly use my breaker bar with the rotating head.
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Jun 5, 2019 19:35
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Another socket on the back of the spark plug socket? I assume you have the kind with the 6 pt on the back.
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Jun 5, 2019 19:43
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1992 Chevy S-10 with 4.3l v6. This is a fuel injected small block chevy engine, California spec. 225,000 miles. Fails smog check. Bought at 60k mi in ~1999, has never had the head apart and probably never even had the valve covers off. We used mechanics until ~2005ish when I started learning to do my own wrenching. When we moved in 2010 it got parked and generally gets used once every two or three months, so it spends way too much time sitting and I often let it go weeks without starting it because I'm stupid and lazy. Three years ago I dropped the transmission and had it rebuilt. Thread here for lots of photos. At that time I did not replace the catalytic converter. The truck passed smog two years ago, but just barely scraping by on high HC emissions. Same thing two years prior. So high HC has been an issue a long time. This time, it's failing on "snap throttle smoke fail", as well as very high HC (meas 158, max 127) at 15mph. At 25mph HCs are under the max. Basically, the truck blows blue smoke on startup, on snap throttle, and has excessive smoke in the exhaust at low throttle. Some research suggests to me that most likely this high-mileage, low-usage engine has bad valve stem seals and is leaking oil into the cylinders. However, it could also have leaking piston rings, excess wear in the cylinders, or a blown head gasket allowing oil into the cylinders. I am not excited about the idea of an engine teardown/reconditioning. I'm willing to do the valve stem seals if that's the problem, but given age, condition, mileage, the summer temps (all work has to be done outside in the driveway these days), and my bad back, if it needs a complete engine job I'm probably gonna just put a bullet in it. Which would be sad considering I just spent all that time and money on the transmission, but sunk costs, etc. So I figured my first step was to test compression. I rented a compression gauge from Autozone, I get to keep it for up to 30 days. All the instructions say to test the engine hot but I decided to start with a cold test. Main reason being pulling the spark plugs on the exhaust side of the engine loving sucks when the exhaust header is hot. I've never done this before so take these results with a lot of salt. I also couldn't get a wrench on the gauge end in the spark plug hole, so it was just fingertip-tight. Also it was still squirting fuel in during cranks, dunno if that matters. I disconnected the main power from the distributor cap to make sure there was no spark, and each cylinder was tested with the other five open (no spark plugs in). Results were kinda weird. All six cylinders were pretty close to the same results: first three cranks, 30-45psi. after ~12 cranks, ~90 psi, and after 20 to 24 cranks, all six cylinders hit 145-150psi. I'm guessing since the engine is cold, that accounts for the initially low compression. Being able to hit 150 suggests no blown head gasket, at least not between cylinders. But beyond that I'm just not sure. So what I need to know is:
Oh and here's phone pics of the plugs. I replaced them two years ago along with the wires and distributor cap and rotor, so they have 3 years and maybe 3-4k miles on them. https://imgur.com/a/twQ1xXD e. Oh yeah the smog test guy suggested it could be a misfire. I don't see how I'd fail to notice that, and I don't see one plug noticeably fouled, but I suppose it's possible? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 20:10
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I finally got a 5/8” spark plug socket (and promptly found another in with my other sockets Besides the aforementioned method of sticking another socket on the socket, not many cheaty ways out I'm afraid. Is it really a spark plug socket? As in hex head, has the rubber gasket inside to grip the plug?
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Jun 5, 2019 20:23
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