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22 Eargesplitten posted:I finally got a 5/8” spark plug socket (and promptly found another in with my other sockets Got a drill adaptor? Chuck that poo poo up in your drill, put it on the back of the extensions and spin out.
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Jun 5, 2019 20:56
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) but my only extension is about an inch or two too short to clear the valve cover over the cams. Does anyone have any cheaty ways to get around that problem? It gets out of the spark plug wire hole but once I put my ratchet’s drive in it basically has to be directly between the camshaft bulges and can’t move enough to actually rotate the socket. I tried grabbing the extension with a pair of pliers and twisting, but they’re just slipping off the extension. I can’t afford an extension set until Friday.
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Leperflesh posted:1992 Chevy S-10 with 4.3l v6. This is a fuel injected small block chevy engine, California spec. 225,000 miles. Fails smog check. Did you have the throttle wide open while doing the compression test? Does the engine exhibit any significant blowby when running - pressure out the dipstick / breathers? If not, then between that and the lack of any real oil fouling on the plugs, I'd say your rings are probably okay. You could rerun the test after squirting some oil in the cylinder and see if the readings jump up. Smoke on start / decel and no other time is usually valve stem seals anyway.
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Jun 5, 2019 21:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I finally got a 5/8” spark plug socket (and promptly found another in with my other sockets Ask to borrow from your neighbor?
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Jun 5, 2019 21:14
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I have ground the ends of M10 bolts into square shanks for emergency extensions at points. When it's 1 AM, everything is closed, you're half-asleep, and just need a little bit more extension, and you look over and eye the bench grinder sitting there, things happen.
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Jun 5, 2019 21:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did you have the throttle wide open while doing the compression test? Yes. Not sure why it says to do that, but the instructions were to do that so I did. (Why do we do this?) quote:Does the engine exhibit any significant blowby when running - pressure out the dipstick / breathers? Nothing out the dipstick. What are the breathers? quote:If not, then between that and the lack of any real oil fouling on the plugs, I'd say your rings are probably okay. You could rerun the test after squirting some oil in the cylinder and see if the readings jump up. Smoke on start / decel and no other time is usually valve stem seals anyway. If I squirt in oil and the readings jump up, what does that mean?
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Jun 5, 2019 21:48
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Colostomy Bag posted:Besides the aforementioned method of sticking another socket on the socket, not many cheaty ways out I'm afraid. Hex head, rubber gasket, but square drive. I can see if the other one I have has a hex drive. Fake edit, do you mean stick a hex socket over the outside of the spark plug socket? That might actually work, I didn’t think about the weird outside shape of the socket. I guess I probably could fit another socket over the outside if I find the right size.
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Jun 5, 2019 21:51
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Leperflesh posted:Yes. Not sure why it says to do that, but the instructions were to do that so I did. (Why do we do this?) Wide open throttle makes sure that the cylinder isn't fighting intake vacuum, which could artificially lower the reading. As a side bonus it should have eventually gone into flood-clear mode and shut off the fuel injectors. quote:Nothing out the dipstick. What are the breathers? PCV system, should be push-in valves in the valvecovers, likely with a vacuum line eventually leading back to the intake manifold. After I put new heads on my old tree fiddy, it would push the dipstick out of the tube until I put vented breathers in all four spots on the valvecover, ensuring a constant oil mist covering the engine bay  quote:If I squirt in oil and the readings jump up, what does that mean? If the readings increase with oil, it means the rings are at least one cause for lost compression. With as many miles as that truck has I would expect some gain in the compression test after adding some oil, but not a major jump. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Fake edit, do you mean stick a hex socket over the outside of the spark plug socket? That might actually work, I didn’t think about the weird outside shape of the socket. I guess I probably could fit another socket over the outside if I find the right size. Yeah, they're literally shaped like that since spark plug access on a lot of older engines is best described as "hellish". I actually had to grind it down on one of mine since the hex itself would foul on the headers on my C10.
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Jun 5, 2019 23:03
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IOwnCalculus posted:Wide open throttle makes sure that the cylinder isn't fighting intake vacuum, which could artificially lower the reading. As a side bonus it should have eventually gone into flood-clear mode and shut off the fuel injectors. OK, thank you for your help. Next chance I get, I'll run the engine for a while to get it hot, and check for blow-by from the breathers; then, re-test compression, and try the tablespoon of oil into the cylinder test to see if compression changes. Assuming no significant blowby and not a huge increase in compression from the oil, it sounds like I can proceed with valve stem seals (and a new cat) and hopefully pass smog.
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Jun 5, 2019 23:51
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'07 grand prix, when accelerating from a stop, decelerating to a stop, or turning at near idle speeds there's a clunky metallic thudding happening right under the feet of the passenger seat. I assumed it might be a worn out rubber bushing, but when I took a peek everything seemed in order. I'm not a mechanic though, any ideas?
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Jun 6, 2019 03:51
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Leperflesh posted:OK, thank you for your help. Next chance I get, I'll run the engine for a while to get it hot, and check for blow-by from the breathers; then, re-test compression, and try the tablespoon of oil into the cylinder test to see if compression changes. Assuming no significant blowby and not a huge increase in compression from the oil, it sounds like I can proceed with valve stem seals (and a new cat) and hopefully pass smog. So uh... this is gonna go against the grain, but this is what I've done with cars that were failing. #1, oil change. What weight do you normally use? Go up a little on the weight (I know this is where I'm gonna catch some poo poo, but it'll be harder for slightly thicker oil to get past the valve guides or stem seals). Also, dirty oil will contribute toward high hydrocarbons. #2, run it down to almost empty. put about 1/4 tank of the lowest octane gas you can find in it. add a bottle or two of HEET. #3, retard the timing slightly. or if it's already retarded a bit beyond normal, advance it slightly. #4, get it good and hot. Beat on it on the highway, then DON'T SHUT IT OFF when you show up to get it tested unless you have to. You need to keep the cat hot. #5, retest. If it's still failing, look at new O2 sensors and maybe cat. It sounds like it's just barely failing on hydrocarbons, so the HEET and getting it good and hot will probably take care of that (if not, O2 probably will, along with an oil change). The smoke... only thing I can really throw out there for sure is thicker oil for now. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Jun 6, 2019 |
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Jun 6, 2019 06:59
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Mondian posted:'07 grand prix, when accelerating from a stop, decelerating to a stop, or turning at near idle speeds there's a clunky metallic thudding happening right under the feet of the passenger seat. I assumed it might be a worn out rubber bushing, but when I took a peek everything seemed in order. I'm not a mechanic though, any ideas? Loose motor mount?
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Jun 6, 2019 07:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, they're literally shaped like that since spark plug access on a lot of older engines is best described as "hellish". I actually had to grind it down on one of mine since the hex itself would foul on the headers on my C10. Well, it worked using a 3/4" socket over the 5/8" spark plug socket. I'm pretty sure spark plugs aren't supposed to be literally bathing in oil, although I also don't think that's the cause of the problems I was having.
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Jun 6, 2019 13:20
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well, it worked using a 3/4" socket over the 5/8" spark plug socket. I'm pretty sure spark plugs aren't supposed to be literally bathing in oil, although I also don't think that's the cause of the problems I was having. Common problem for OHC engines. Plug well gaskets get old and they leak.
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Jun 6, 2019 13:48
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C-Bangin' it 
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Mondian posted:'07 grand prix, when accelerating from a stop, decelerating to a stop, or turning at near idle speeds there's a clunky metallic thudding happening right under the feet of the passenger seat. I assumed it might be a worn out rubber bushing, but when I took a peek everything seemed in order. I'm not a mechanic though, any ideas? Well you can basically do a free test...which may or may not work (as in probably not work 90% of the time but it is easy to do). Open hood. Peer through bottom of open hood as you start car. Rev engine, see if there is any rocking. Can also add in brake checking but don't do it in front of anything valuable such as people, garage doors, other cars, etc. But from what you describe it is probably a mount of some sort. Fortunately the 3800 which I assume you have are easy to get to.
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Jun 6, 2019 14:35
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Colostomy Bag posted:Common problem for OHC engines. Plug well gaskets get old and they leak. Yeah, I expected some oil but they were seriously soaked. I have a picture of plug 3 that I was considering posting from immediately after I took it out. But  unless it becomes relevant. Sadly I didn’t get plug 1 or 2 until after a minute or so, they were even worse.Whenever I see pictures of pistons they’re always shiny, smooth and clean. OTOH, that’s when the engine has just been built/rebuilt and is being put back together. How rough/grey is normal for the piston faces? I’ve got a picture of that as well although I might try to get a better one, the lighting situation down the spark plug hole wasn’t optimal. Has anyone living in an apartment without a garage rented one to work on their car? Pros/cons? Would you do it again (assuming maintenance, not full-on project car)? I’m looking at moving to a place but it only has street parking, which rules out any work but emergency tire changes. If I needed to do significant work I’m wondering about renting a garage. Do places do month to month? Would a storage unit place get on my rear end over pulling a car in, assuming they even had lights, or does that vary wildly by owner? I know my in-laws have a storage unit in a complex that has at least one guy’s “home” gym in it.
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Jun 6, 2019 15:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, I expected some oil but they were seriously soaked. I have a picture of plug 3 that I was considering posting from immediately after I took it out. But Again, not a big deal and fairly normal but yeah needs to be fixed. Problem becomes you probably should have soaked some of that oil up with a paper towel before removing the plugs because now it is sitting in the combustion chamber. A minute chance of hydrolock. But if it sits for a while probably will be fine. New valve cover gasket will include the spark plug well gaskets. Ask if you want advice if you need some RTV or something with the gasket versus going dry on it. As for how pistons look, what you said sounds good to me. When you pull the valve cover off is how you'll really see how well an engine is.
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Jun 6, 2019 15:27
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, I expected some oil but they were seriously soaked. I have a picture of plug 3 that I was considering posting from immediately after I took it out. But Some storage places will let you do automotive work out of units. Hell, the place down the road let my buddy run a full-blown shop with a lift and everything; it's where I started developing advanced mechanic skills. Definitely varies by owner, however.
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Jun 6, 2019 15:41
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I would say that there was less than one tablespoon of oil visible on the top of the seals, and that’s on the worst one of the three that had oil on them. I don’t know how much more there was in the well. Given that compression tests sometimes involve pouring a couple tablespoons into a cylinder to see if the piston rings need help sealing, though, I don’t think that should be a big deal? I’m definitely doing the VCG and spark plug seals, and the wires and new plugs and a new air filter, assuming the compression and leakdown don’t say “Have fun installing a new head gasket!” And of course an oil change since it seems like gas and oil are mixing, resulting in an extremely high and poorly performing oil level. Thankfully I found a jug of 5w30 I forgot I had, just have to make sure it’s still good.
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Jun 6, 2019 15:47
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2006 Forester XT Just had new shocks and an alignment done (which doesn't feel right). The top mount on one side is bulging like crazy, it shouldn't do this should it? https://imgur.com/a/IBD9Vcu
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Jun 6, 2019 16:28
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n8r posted:2006 Forester XT Yeah, that looks wrong. Are the strut mounts new too? Bring it back to the shop. Have them warranty that poo poo if they're new.
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Jun 6, 2019 17:32
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Yeah it's hosed. Going to have to RMA through rockauto. Monroe claims they have a labor/alignment reimbursement policy but I bet my odds of Rockauto doing that are slim to none.
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Jun 6, 2019 22:37
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STR posted:So uh... this is gonna go against the grain, but this is what I've done with cars that were failing. I would do all of this, but probably also the valve seals to ensure smoke won't be an issue.
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Jun 6, 2019 23:53
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So I'm hoping someone could disabuse me of my prexisting notions before I go posting on some esoteric facebook group. Me, an idiot: With port injection you want the injector to be closing as the intake valve opens such that the fuel vapor has evaporated and atomized by soaking up heat from the intake port and valve before getting sucked in. The shorter period of time you have to inject means less chance for fuel vapor to wind up in the upstream manifold and reduces backfires. There is some way to calculate the right ratio of injector spray angle between hitting the runner wall for wetting and atomization vs down the intake port. With sequential injection you want the secondary injectors higher in the runners and to inject once the valve is already opening at high load. This means you'll already have airflow into the cylinder and so the cold fuel gets into the chamber to cool the charge and prevent knock, not worrying much about atomization since you're running stupid rich anyway.
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Jun 7, 2019 05:39
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Has anyone living in an apartment without a garage rented one to work on their car? Pros/cons? Would you do it again (assuming maintenance, not full-on project car)? I’m looking at moving to a place but it only has street parking, which rules out any work but emergency tire changes. If I needed to do significant work I’m wondering about renting a garage. Do places do month to month? Would a storage unit place get on my rear end over pulling a car in, assuming they even had lights, or does that vary wildly by owner? I know my in-laws have a storage unit in a complex that has at least one guy’s “home” gym in it. Storage units vary wildly, but most specifically exclude car work for liability reasons. How much they enforce that depends on if it's corporate or independent (the storage place I use is corporate; no lights in the unit at all; there's a 277V conduit running overhead that I'd rather not gently caress with, not that my storage unit is large enough for a car anyway). There's a DIY garage I use for anything that I can't do at home. $25/hour for access to a lift and plenty of tools, though the owner is pretty picky about who he lends the "nice" stuff out to (have to be wearing gloves or have clean hands, been there more than once, etc). Also Alldata access, and they'll lend you a hand (for a fee and a bit of good-natured mockery) if you get stuck. See if you have anything like that in your area. I did see someone turn a large Public Storage unit into a rather illicit shop - they rented 2 outside units side by side, tapped into the outside lights to add a garage door opener to both doors, plenty of lights, and some sockets, and knocked down the wall between 2 units. I have no idea how they managed to get away with it for as long as they did (aside from ONLY using it after management was gone for the day), but they got evicted and sued for the cleanup (obviously) once management found out. I think they managed to do this for over a year though. IOwnCalculus posted:I would do all of this, but probably also the valve seals to ensure smoke won't be an issue. I was going for the easy stuff that doesn't require tearing into the engine.
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Jun 7, 2019 05:53
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M_Gargantua posted:With sequential injection you want the secondary injectors Very few vehicles have "secondary" injectors. Sequential injection usually just means the injectors fire in time with their respective cylinders. Older systems like on a tuned-port Chevy were multi-point systems that had an injector in each intake port, but the computer would just batch fire four injectors at a time. The only vehicles I'm aware of that have sequential injection along the lines of what you're thinking of, are either extremely high powered engines where you just need more injector to keep up with airflow, or engines running a combination of direct and port injection. I'm pretty sure the latter is Toyota only thanks to patents.
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Jun 7, 2019 06:03
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I think Ford also uses a mix of PFI and DI.
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Jun 7, 2019 06:14
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Follow-up question on struts replacement for my '07 Corolla. How do you make sure that, during old strut removal, I keep hearing about how the axle's inner-joint can fall out. And if it does then you just gave yourself a whole lot more annoying work to. Kind of how EricTheCarGuy discusses at this part. Any tips fpr making sure that this doesn't happen? A lot of videos I've watched say "Be careful!" but none seem to have any helpful tips on how to avoid this from happening. Also how hosed are you if that does end up happening.
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Jun 7, 2019 16:49
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STR posted:There's a DIY garage I use for anything that I can't do at home. $25/hour for access to a lift and plenty of tools, though the owner is pretty picky about who he lends the "nice" stuff out to (have to be wearing gloves or have clean hands, been there more than once, etc). Also Alldata access, and they'll lend you a hand (for a fee and a bit of good-natured mockery) if you get stuck. See if you have anything like that in your area. Interesting. I remember on another forum like a decade ago someone wondered why those didn’t exist and other people said it was for liability because even with a waiver the lawsuit if someone screwed up with a lift and dropped a car on themselves would be a nightmare. $25 an hour would add up fast with how long I take to fix stuff, but on the other hand a lot of stuff would probably be quite a bit faster with a lift and it might not actually be more expensive compared to paying for something every month, even when I’m not working on anything. Really it would mostly just mean I would start taking my car to a shop for oil changes rather than DIY.
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Jun 7, 2019 17:09
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melon cat posted:Follow-up question on struts replacement for my '07 Corolla. How do you make sure that, during old strut removal, I keep hearing about how the axle's inner-joint can fall out. And if it does then you just gave yourself a whole lot more annoying work to. Kind of how EricTheCarGuy discusses at this part. Any tips fpr making sure that this doesn't happen? A lot of videos I've watched say "Be careful!" but none seem to have any helpful tips on how to avoid this from happening. Also how hosed are you if that does end up happening. Don't pull on the control arm / knuckle any further than you have to. The style shown in that video is easier to work with than the type that cups around the bottom of the strut. I did this once with my MS3. I guess I got lucky because I was able to just shove the joint back together and it worked, though when I traded it in a couple years later it was starting to leak grease out from under the end of the boot.
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Jun 7, 2019 17:34
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The surefire way to avoid pulling apart the inner joint is to loosen/remove the axle nut so that the outer joint can move freely in the hub, but that can suck because of the required loosening/tightening torque. If you remove the nuts you’ll probably need new ones, too - on most vehicles they’re single use. Like IOC said you’ll probably be fine if you’re careful about how much you pull on the knuckle. Your Corolla uses the same style of strut that’s shown in the video so you shouldn’t have to move it too much.
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Jun 7, 2019 18:15
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totalnewbie posted:I think Ford also uses a mix of PFI and DI. Yeah, at least the newer ones do. IIRC the second-gen 3.5 EcoBoost in the GT was officially the first, though the '17 F-150 actually brought it to market, and everything new or updated in the EcoBoost line since then has had dual injection. I don't think any of the four bangers have it yet, but the 2.7 V6 definitely got an update and the new 1.5L 3 (not to be confused with the old 1.5L 4 that was a destroked 1.6L) got it too.
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Jun 7, 2019 22:01
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Yup they added it to the 5.0 in the Mustang for 2018 as well.
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Jun 8, 2019 01:00
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Hey guys, it’s been a long time. Like a really long time. But I’m at a loss and I don’t know who to ask or where to ask, but in the past this is the place that answers the unanswerable. This is a Aztec Green car. A true 90’s ride. Seriously, it is green and a 1993 Acura Integra GS. The problem is with the transmission and really crunchy shifts — but only when the engine is on. When the engine is off, it shifts like butter. Typical Honda smooth. Turn the engine on, and you can get it in gear but it takes some force — it’s like shifting a crashbox. There is absolutely no grinding. The clutch was suggested but I’m not so sure. It I have the clutch pedal fully in, the car will not move an inch even if my foot isn’t on the brake. Shifting is difficult. If I put the car in fifth gear and let out the clutch I have no problem stalling the car. Clutch seems fine. Turn off the car, it goes back to shifting like normal.
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Jun 9, 2019 06:30
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einTier posted:Hey guys, it’s been a long time. Like a really long time. But I’m at a loss and I don’t know who to ask or where to ask, but in the past this is the place that answers the unanswerable. Get the front end up in the air and repeat your experimentation with the clutch while in gear. If there's any more than minimal torque on the wheel you've got a clutch adjustment problem. Cable or hydraulic?
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Jun 9, 2019 06:46
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Beach Bum posted:Get the front end up in the air and repeat your experimentation with the clutch while in gear. If there's any more than minimal torque on the wheel you've got a clutch adjustment problem. Reasonably sure it's hydraulic. I'm not where the car is the moment to check. I'm suddenly realizing in my quick assessment of the problem I did not try shifting with the clutch in and the engine off. I'm trying to see if understand what you're saying. I think you're saying that the clutch is coming back far enough to interfere with the transmission and needs to be adjusted. Not sure how to do that or why it would suddenly happen overnight, but I think I see the point. However, I don't understand why jacking the drive wheels up in the air would change anything here. I really don't understand what you mean when you say "If there's any more than minimal torque on the wheel..." The car can be driven under its own power.
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Jun 9, 2019 07:32
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Holy poo poo, a car I'm actually REAL familiar with!  You have a cable operated clutch on that car, not hydraulic. The first thing to check will be to see how much slack is in the cable. You can adjust the slack out at the transmission end (there's an adjuster where it connects to the transaxle). It's a 2 person job if you want to do it quickly, but you can do it alone. You can check for slack just by seeing how limp the cable is at the transmission end (there's an ear that the plastic part w/sheath connects to, then the actual metal cable that goes to the shift fork). You need a little slack in the cable, but not much (just enough to give it a tiny bit of slack when your foot isn't touching the pedal). It helps to see how far the shift fork is moving when someone else depresses the clutch, but it's not an absolute requirement. The cables stretch over time; that's why there's an adjuster. But it needs periodic adjustment. If it's stretched too much to adjust for, cables aren't that expensive, and they're easy to replace on these (relatively - it's cramped up under the dash). It's almost identical to replacing a throttle cable, just 2 pedals over. It sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging, but since it's not slipping, that points at the clutch cable, the throwout bearing, or a worn out gearbox. Since it's affecting all gears and not just 5th (the first one to get crunchy/difficult on Honda gearboxes of that era), it's the cable or throwout bearing. And having owned a few Hondas with cable clutches, I feel pretty safe in saying you need to adjust the cable. You need to fix this sooner rather than later - your transaxle is very hard to find these days (it was only used from 90-93; any newer and you have to do a hydraulic clutch conversion, which is $$$ and a pain in the dick; nothing older will physically bolt up to the engine, while 94-01 will if you do the hydro conversion), and driving it like this is going to wear it out extra fast. (I miss the hell out of my DA Integra... so much fun to drive, even though it was pretty gutless - mine was a 91, your 93 has 10 extra HP vs my old 91). As for your engine off shifting - clutch in or out, it should slip into gears relatively easy, if everything is lined up right. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Jun 9, 2019 |
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Jun 9, 2019 07:40
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einTier posted:Reasonably sure it's hydraulic. I'm not where the car is the moment to check. I'm suddenly realizing in my quick assessment of the problem I did not try shifting with the clutch in and the engine off. As STR said, and I trust his claim of a cable operated clutch, it is likely out of adjustment and remaining slightly engaged. This will cause problems shifting, as the synchronizers aren't meant to handle anything more than the torque of a freewheeling mainshaft. The test I spoke of would readily determine whether or not there was engine torque applied to the wheels with the clutch pedal fully depressed, indicating an adjustment problem. Sometimes wheels will spin a bit even with the clutch disengaged, as even the best bearings are not without friction and will transmit some force through the drivetrain, though in that case or even in the event of a slight maladjustment, not enough to move the car.
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Jun 9, 2019 12:00
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I posted this on MyG37 but please help if you have some thoughts, thanks. Hey I have a 2008 G37 Sport. Randomly something will go wrong with the engine management, I've had it happen 0 times in a week or 4 times in a week... The first sign is idle starts to rest at 800 rpm instead of 650 like normal. The throttle will surge randomly at low revs, whether you're in a gear or in neutral, and it can happen whether I'm on or off the gas. If I select first and slowly let the clutch out with my foot completely off gas pedal, the revs will drop a bit (of course) but then this surge happens and it jumps to ~1500 making it impossible to engage first like a normal person. I could also be like in third gear, going slow-ish (below 2000rpm), then let's say I put on 30% throttle. That's fine for a moment but then the car could give extra throttle for a few seconds as if I'm asking for 60% throttle, then it goes back to where I actually have the pedal position. Another example is first gear engaged, I'm going 4mph and put on the tiniest bit of throttle to crawl forward faster, the car will leap ahead as if I'm giving way more throttle. It has been this way for months and pissing me off, and I haven't been able to reproduce for my mechanic so they won't do anything. I have absolutely no clue what causes the car to enter this mode. It truly seems random. Sometimes turning the car off/on gets rid of it... I've reset the ECU (unplug battery overnight), done the throttle pedal position reset, throttle body relearn, and idle air relearn. These did not help the issue. Any thoughts on what the f is going on and what I should do???
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Jun 9, 2019 23:14
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Any codes?
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Jun 9, 2019 23:16
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opengl128 posted:Any codes? I don't have a thing to pull that. No lights on the dashboard though.
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Jun 9, 2019 23:17
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