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Satellit3 posted:I don't have a thing to pull that. No lights on the dashboard though. Get one. It's possible it won't show any info but may give some raw data that is useful. It seems like a sensor somewhere is reading incorrectly intermediately. My example that is similar was my Saturn was surging like that, except all the time, and it turned out the temp sensor was cracked and broken. The ecu read that the engine was -77 degrees, so it was trying to warm it up. Of course that's not really a thing to set a code or light the dash up, and it was reading so cold the temp gauge wouldn't rise so that was a clue when it was warm but also it was so cold that seeing it in the data indicated it was a sensor problem, not just low coolant since it was not on be ice planet Hoth.
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Jun 9, 2019 23:25
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Thanks guys. Looks like a clutch cable replacement is in my future. We will see if that fixes the glitch.
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Jun 9, 2019 23:56
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StormDrain posted:Get one. It's possible it won't show any info but may give some raw data that is useful. It seems like a sensor somewhere is reading incorrectly intermediately. My example that is similar was my Saturn was surging like that, except all the time, and it turned out the temp sensor was cracked and broken. The ecu read that the engine was -77 degrees, so it was trying to warm it up. Of course that's not really a thing to set a code or light the dash up, and it was reading so cold the temp gauge wouldn't rise so that was a clue when it was warm but also it was so cold that seeing it in the data indicated it was a sensor problem, not just low coolant since it was not on be ice planet Hoth. I'd expect a 2008 to throw a code for that. My 06 Saturn sure as hell did when I knocked the temp sensor wire loose replacing the throttle body - it had a high idle, dash gauge pegged at cold (when the engine was fully warm), and the CEL came on with the second restart (code was for the engine temp sensor circuit). Still worth looking into (especially looking at live data), but if the sensor is fully dead, or intermittently cutting in and out, a modern ECU should pick up on it pretty quick and toss a code at you.
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Jun 10, 2019 08:20
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STR posted:I'd expect a 2008 to throw a code for that. My 06 Saturn sure as hell did when I knocked the temp sensor wire loose replacing the throttle body - it had a high idle, dash gauge pegged at cold (when the engine was fully warm), and the CEL came on with the second restart (code was for the engine temp sensor circuit). Yeah, agree. Maybe there is a pending code and given how inconsistent it is it would light up the MIL. I'd be curious what the TPS voltage is showing during this.
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Jun 10, 2019 13:21
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C-Bangin' it 
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08 will definitely be drive by wire, and thus, should have a minimum of two TPSs just on the throttle body (plus at least one position sensor on the pedal - it may have two there). Any significant mismatch should throw a TPS mismatch code, but that almost always throws a car into limp. Honestly, I think this is something that will be hard to figure out without someone somewhat knowledgeable looking at live data, even if it's just via Torque and an OBD2 dongle. I don't know DBW Nissans at all, but seat of the soiled pants guess is either fuel delivery issues (clogged filter, failing pump, etc), or a failing MAF. It probably has a PID for fuel pressure, and it definitely has them for all of the TPSs and the MAF rate. Cycling the key could let a semi-clogged fuel system build up enough pressure to run fine for a bit until the next time you hammer it. Same if a MAF is getting wonky; letting it cool off even briefly may be enough to let the ECU see what's really happening again.
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Jun 10, 2019 15:23
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STR posted:I'd expect a 2008 to throw a code for that. My 06 Saturn sure as hell did when I knocked the temp sensor wire loose replacing the throttle body - it had a high idle, dash gauge pegged at cold (when the engine was fully warm), and the CEL came on with the second restart (code was for the engine temp sensor circuit). Well technically it wasnt broken (it was physically busted), there was still a connection and it was giving very low resistance and was reading an unlikely temp. I guess it could be programmed to say that's too cold and put a light on though. Again, I doubt that's happening here but I like it as an example of something broken that doesn't throw a code and screws up computer programming.
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Jun 10, 2019 15:45
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Yeah I know we are pulling ideas out of our collective rear end'. Crazy thing is if it is DBW you can't rule out ECM losing it's mind either. Maybe a bad short? I would think MAF or fuel pressure would trigger a MIL. A giant vacuum leak would probably toss a lean code. Weird. But it is Nissan so who knows.
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Jun 10, 2019 15:50
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Speaking of drive by wire - I'm getting an annoying shudder every time I release the cruise control stalk after pulling it to accelerate up (as you do per the manual) to a new speed. Shudder lasts for a second or so. I figure it's a symptom of something that's not working as it should. Other throttle/engine related problems are things like it suddenly feels like it changed to a different throttle position. I was in a queue today and the speed was the same as the car running on first gear and me not having to press the gas pedal. Drove fine then started bucking. Sometimes I get the feeling like x amount of throttle pedal suddenly only gives about half of what it usually does. All problems except for the cruise control triggered one appear at low speeds and low gears (1-3rd, 0-50km/h). No error codes. All mounts are new, new spark plugs. No misfires etc. No rough idle or stalling tendencies. No power surges. Cleaned the throttle body. Some days are problem free, but mostly varying degrees of roughness. So drat annoying and hard to really get anywhere with presently. Really puts me off the car to be honest. 2011 Alfa Romeo Giulietta that has identical powertrain to the 1.4 MultiAir Dodge Dart.
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Jun 10, 2019 16:19
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STR posted:I'd expect a 2008 to throw a code for that. My 06 Saturn sure as hell did when I knocked the temp sensor wire loose replacing the throttle body - it had a high idle, dash gauge pegged at cold (when the engine was fully warm), and the CEL came on with the second restart (code was for the engine temp sensor circuit). Yes, sensor readings have a diagnostic range (low or high) where if you're outside of that, it will throw a code. So even if a sensor can technically read X if the temperature is high/low enough, the OBD is designed not to run when it might be in that range.
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Jun 10, 2019 16:33
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https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/292990-throttle-surge.html Ok if I were to buy a scanner whatever, recommendations on which one? I don't know what I'm doing thank you.
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Jun 10, 2019 18:41
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My two year old son smiled and threw a rock at my Tacoma, just aft of the rear wheel and chipped the paint, maybe 1mm across. It is a metal body panel and while I don't care too much about the paint I want to make sure no rust takes hold in that spot. Is there anything I should do to ensure this?
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Jun 10, 2019 22:38
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Parts stores sell little tubes of touch up paint, the end looks like a ballpoint pen and when you press it against the body panel it opens and lets a drop of paint out that will usually fill a chip. You can also unscrew the end and there's a little touch up brush inside the bottle if you need to spread the paint out further. Check inside your door for the VIN sticker, it will have your paint code on it which you can then match at the parts store.
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Jun 11, 2019 00:03
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Geoj posted:Parts stores sell little tubes of touch up paint, the end looks like a ballpoint pen and when you press it against the body panel it opens and lets a drop of paint out that will usually fill a chip. You can also unscrew the end and there's a little touch up brush inside the bottle if you need to spread the paint out further. Check inside your door for the VIN sticker, it will have your paint code on it which you can then match at the parts store. Note: you may have to go to a dealership if you have a rare color.
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Jun 11, 2019 01:20
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Mercury Ballistic posted:My two year old son smiled and threw a rock at my Tacoma, just aft of the rear wheel and chipped the paint, maybe 1mm across. It is a metal body panel and while I don't care too much about the paint I want to make sure no rust takes hold in that spot. Is there anything I should do to ensure this? Adoption agency?  Serious question after the last posts, do you need to clearcoat the spot after that?
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Jun 11, 2019 01:33
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kid sinister posted:Note: you may have to go to a dealership if you have a rare color. https://www.paintscratch.com/ They even make custom mix catalyzed spray cans for doing entire panels (button on the bottom of the can to dump the catalyst).
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Jun 11, 2019 01:45
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Motronic posted:https://www.paintscratch.com/ So these paint pens are sufficient to keep rust at bay?
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Jun 11, 2019 01:59
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Mercury Ballistic posted:So these paint pens are sufficient to keep rust at bay? Yep. Any coating that will keep the water off is going to be sufficient. If you want to go all the way you could dot some POR or chassis saver on the bare metal before top coating with the correct color, but that's probably excessive.
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Jun 11, 2019 03:33
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I think the transmission in my 2010 Impreza might be dying. I was driving for a few hours this past weekend when my dash lit up with the AT Oil Temp light and the CEL. The AT Oil Temp light went away after I pulled over for a few minutes and hasn't come back on yet, but the CEL stayed on. The AT fluid level does look fine to me. I took it to a parts shop and got the codes for the CEL, P0700 (Transmission Control System Malfunction) and P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch solenoid). It seems to be driving normally, but it's always sounded like poo poo so who knows. I can't get into my regular shop for a couple weeks...How hosed am I? Unrelated to that issue, I also have to replace the A/C compressor (I think) after my A/C died at the end of last summer and a recharge did nothing. Would it be dumb to buy a used compressor? Looks like $400-$600 new vs under $200 used
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Jun 11, 2019 15:43
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Stevie Lee posted:I think the transmission in my 2010 Impreza might be dying. I was driving for a few hours this past weekend when my dash lit up with the AT Oil Temp light and the CEL. The AT Oil Temp light went away after I pulled over for a few minutes and hasn't come back on yet, but the CEL stayed on. The AT fluid level does look fine to me. Transmission: sounds like the lockup solenoid might be hosed, which explains the AT temp issue. Clear the code, baby it, see if it comes back. AC: how much longer are you going to keep the car? More than a couple years, I would buy new.
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Jun 11, 2019 16:00
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Stevie Lee posted:I think the transmission in my 2010 Impreza might be dying. I was driving for a few hours this past weekend when my dash lit up with the AT Oil Temp light and the CEL. The AT Oil Temp light went away after I pulled over for a few minutes and hasn't come back on yet, but the CEL stayed on. The AT fluid level does look fine to me. What was the color of the fluid?
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Jun 11, 2019 16:02
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It looked clear to me e: I'll check it again because I guess it's supposed to be red...maybe I need to look closer Stevie Lee fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jun 11, 2019 |
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Jun 11, 2019 16:21
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Stevie Lee posted:It looked clear to me Yes, pinkish-red. If it is brownish...bad sign.
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Jun 11, 2019 16:31
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yes, pinkish-red. If it is brownish...bad sign. poo poo. it's definitely more brown than red.
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Jun 11, 2019 21:23
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My wife's 2008 4-Cyl Toyota Camry LE (87k miles) has always eaten a noticeable amount of oil as compared to my 2009 Honda Accord. At this point it eats about 1 quart per 1300 miles. Is there anything that can be done to help combat the problem, or do I just continue to keep spare quarts on hand and top off as necessary? Also if useful I usually use Penzoil 5w20 conventional and your basic fram filter.
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Jun 11, 2019 23:49
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The Rev posted:My wife's 2008 4-Cyl Toyota Camry LE (87k miles) has always eaten a noticeable amount of oil as compared to my 2009 Honda Accord. At this point it eats about 1 quart per 1300 miles. Is there anything that can be done to help combat the problem, or do I just continue to keep spare quarts on hand and top off as necessary? Also if useful I usually use Penzoil 5w20 conventional and your basic fram filter. Dump the Fram filter. Honda's eat oil like crazy.
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Jun 12, 2019 00:41
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Stevie Lee posted:poo poo. it's definitely more brown than red. Sounds like my bowel movements. But it is to be expected since you "cooked" the fluid. Probably 1/100 cases where one can say "yeah, drop the pan, replace this solenoid flush the fluid and off it goes." Sorry for the bad news.
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Jun 12, 2019 00:47
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STR posted:So uh... this is gonna go against the grain, but this is what I've done with cars that were failing. IOwnCalculus posted:I would do all of this, but probably also the valve seals to ensure smoke won't be an issue. STR posted:I was going for the easy stuff that doesn't require tearing into the engine. Sorry boys, only just now getting back to the thread. It's been 100 degrees out so I haven't done poo poo yet. The truck calls for anything from 5w30 to 10w30. I've run high-mileage oil before, but I think my most recent change I just put in the normal poo poo. That was probably a year or more ago, like I said it mostly sits, so I'll put in some heavier weight (maybe 15w30?) with the high mileage factor. I'm in the san francisco bay area, it does not get actually cold so heavier weight isn't an issue. I've done most of those other tricks just to get it to squeeze past smog anyway. No go on the tweaking timing though: first, CA actually checks the engine timing as part of the inspection and more than half a degree out will fail: and second, this vehicle has some kind of primitive electronic timing adjuster doohicky, you actually have to disconnect a wire in the passenger footwell before you set the timing because it'll adjust the timing a bit if it thinks it's off. Years ago I once failed smog three times in a row because I was setting the timing myself by hand, and there's a mark on the front of the engine block that I thought was the timing mark but actually there's a different place where there's like a look-through thingy, and once I found that, it took me ages before I realized you weren't supposed to set it to the first mark in the window, ugh. Also no-go on the "don't shut it off", part of the test is a start up. California has gotten wise to the tricks, lol. But I do bring her in hot and toasty, and the place I go to the guy does whatever he can to get it to pass, within the law and rules. Anyway yeah my plan is to check for blow-by and the tablespoon of oil in the cylinder thing, but like 90% sure I'll be doing the valve stem seals. I'll leave off on doing the cat, see if a hot cat, heavy oil, and the seals results in a pass. Youtube has a couple videos from some lady with a pink truck doing her seals for the first time without really the right tools except for a janky borrowed spring compressor and she manages it, it's clearly not that hard. e. oh yeah there's only 87 around here, no 85 octane. I'll check out that HEET stuff. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jun 12, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2019 01:10
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Decided it would be a good idea to throw some clearcoat on the wheels I've been painting at 2am. It was not a good idea and I hosed it up, sprayed it on too thick in a couple of spots: I can just sand that back gently and clearcoat again, right? No further steps necessary?
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Jun 12, 2019 01:23
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I was driving around with the donut spare on my 2017 versa today, and the abs+traction control lights came on later that night. Does abs get confused by slightly mismatched tires?
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Jun 12, 2019 02:28
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Yes, very much so. The primary input for ABS is wheel speed, which will be different if using a compact spare.
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Jun 12, 2019 02:43
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Cool, will it clear on it's own when I get a normal tire on there?
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Jun 12, 2019 02:47
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Yep. Well usually. Fun fact, before TPMS sensors the ABS sensors were used to determine if your tire pressures were off. That is how sensitive they are.
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Jun 12, 2019 03:03
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yep. Well usually. Some cars still use ABS based TPMS. No sensors to replace at the downside of not being able to see individual tire pressures.
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Jun 12, 2019 12:20
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Colostomy Bag posted:Sounds like my bowel movements. Oh, I don't know. He did stop pretty much immediately when the temperature light came on. Some new fluid on top of fixing whatever was wrong with the torque converter lockup might set it right again.
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Jun 12, 2019 13:21
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When buying a used car with a lien on it from a private party out of state, the process should just involve paying off the loan and getting the title from the bank directly, correct? The DMV in that state shouldn't factor in at all? It's Wisconsin and I looked it up and they do issue the title to the lien holder but the seller keeps mentioning something about getting the title from the DMV. It has been a loooong time since I've bought anything private party so I'm just double checking. e: so I called the bank the lien is through and they confirmed that you pay with guaranteed funds, they release the lien, and then you have to go to the DMV to get the title. I don't like the idea of giving out the money and not getting the title immediately, is there any actual risk on this? Does a bill of sale cover me until I get the title in hand? fknlo fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jun 12, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2019 18:34
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fknlo posted:When buying a used car with a lien on it from a private party out of state, the process should just involve paying off the loan and getting the title from the bank directly, correct? The DMV in that state shouldn't factor in at all? It's Wisconsin and I looked it up and they do issue the title to the lien holder but the seller keeps mentioning something about getting the title from the DMV. It has been a loooong time since I've bought anything private party so I'm just double checking.  Disclaimer: I Am Not A Lawyer, I was merely raised by a pack of them, and you are advised to consult with a Real Life Lawyer before taking any of my lovely advice under consideration. Bill of Sale covers you [in Florida, at least; check both states' statutes]. However, you'd likely have to go to court to recover from the seller. What you want to do is pay the lienholder directly, they'll be much more willing and able to return your funds. BoS should again cover you. If the seller doesn't give you title/car, then you just call the lienholder. You may also want to talk to your bank, they're likely to have someone you could consult with. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jun 12, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2019 19:25
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Beach Bum posted:
The bank his loan is through made it sound like this as well. It would be directly through them but I didn't ask about the possibility of them returning my funds if the guy tripped me and then ran out the front door into the woods before we were able to go to the DMV. Just a risk you have to take in this sort of situation I guess.
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Jun 12, 2019 20:05
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fknlo posted:The bank his loan is through made it sound like this as well. It would be directly through them but I didn't ask about the possibility of them returning my funds if the guy tripped me and then ran out the front door into the woods before we were able to go to the DMV. Just a risk you have to take in this sort of situation I guess. Could you meet at, and perform your transaction within, that DMV? You can even bring the seller with you through the queue and sign the paper right at the DMV person's counter as they provide the title.
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Jun 12, 2019 20:23
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Leperflesh posted:Could you meet at, and perform your transaction within, that DMV? You can even bring the seller with you through the queue and sign the paper right at the DMV person's counter as they provide the title. I think there'd be an issue satisfying the lien at the counter, as that would involve [this would be my process under the condition] writing a check to the seller, the seller depositing that check via mobile (and then not acting like they've never heard of you and waltzing out), the entire check clearing immediately, the seller paying their bank with those new funds, and the bank then filing satisfaction of lien paperwork with the WI DMV immediately so that a fast title can be issued right then. This last would be the most unlikely; in my experience that poo poo takes at least a few hours.
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Jun 12, 2019 21:04
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I have three Girling master that are seized up, brand new 30 years ago when they were installed before the car was parked. I have them sitting with brake fluid in them seeing if it'll help at all. I've heard of boiling them in various things but haven't tried anything yet. I'd rather rebuild ($25) than replace ($135) if possible. Any tips on what to soak or boil them in to help break things loose? I'm hesitant to hit them to break them loose in case it scores the cylinder walls.
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Jun 12, 2019 22:04
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