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Beach Bum posted:I think there'd be an issue satisfying the lien at the counter, as that would involve [this would be my process under the condition] writing a check to the seller, the seller depositing that check via mobile (and then not acting like they've never heard of you and waltzing out), the entire check clearing immediately, the seller paying their bank with those new funds, and the bank then filing satisfaction of lien paperwork with the WI DMV immediately so that a fast title can be issued right then. This last would be the most unlikely; in my experience that poo poo takes at least a few hours. This type of transaction is pretty much the entire reason escrow exists. Surely in a state where this kind of title stupidity exists there are also escrow services targeted at solving the problem for a few bucks. Maybe even banks.
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Jun 12, 2019 22:13
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Motronic posted:This type of transaction is pretty much the entire reason escrow exists. Surely in a state where this kind of title stupidity exists there are also escrow services targeted at solving the problem for a few bucks. Maybe even banks. I thought about escrow but won't the funds will have to be released before I get the title to pay off the loan therefore leaving me in the exact same situation?
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Jun 12, 2019 23:16
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Not when the escrow company is involved. It's partially an insurance product.
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Jun 12, 2019 23:27
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dump the Fram filter. Honda's eat oil like crazy. What is your preferred alternative for a filter? Also are you indicating the Toyota oil consumption is just the way it is, or are there any potential things I can do to help slow it down?
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Jun 13, 2019 03:01
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The Rev posted:What is your preferred alternative for a filter? Also are you indicating the Toyota oil consumption is just the way it is, or are there any potential things I can do to help slow it down? Toyotas had a big problem with oil usage last decade. The bottom ring would get clogged and force oil up the cylinder walls past the rest of the rings. There was a huge recall, lots of people got new rings or engines. https://www.cars.com/articles/2007-2013-toyota-oil-issue-1420690185925/ 2008 Corollas were in the recall and it should have been fixed. You might contact a Toyota dealer and see what they can do for you. Ed: Some sources are saying the 2008 Corolla were not in the recall, others are saying they were. Check with your dealer. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jun 13, 2019 |
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Jun 13, 2019 03:05
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Motronic posted:This type of transaction is pretty much the entire reason escrow exists. Surely in a state where this kind of title stupidity exists there are also escrow services targeted at solving the problem for a few bucks. Maybe even banks. Well, yeah, that would be the reasonable course of action, but this is SA. also I completely forgot escrow even existed and oh my god I'm dumb  The Rev posted:What is your preferred alternative for a filter? Also are you indicating the Toyota oil consumption is just the way it is, or are there any potential things I can do to help slow it down? I personally like Purolator, either their One or Boss line depending on what's on sale. Regularly receive good reviews by people who obsessively cut open filters at bobistheoilguy.com
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Jun 13, 2019 03:33
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Deteriorata posted:Toyotas had a big problem with oil usage last decade. The bottom ring would get clogged and force oil up the cylinder walls past the rest of the rings. There was a huge recall, lots of people got new rings or engines. It's a Camry, not a Corolla. Sadly well past the warranty. I guess it can't hurt to call a local Toyota shop, but i am sure it wont be worth the price if they need to lift the whole engine.
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Jun 13, 2019 03:42
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The Rev posted:It's a Camry, not a Corolla. Sadly well past the warranty. I guess it can't hurt to call a local Toyota shop, but i am sure it wont be worth the price if they need to lift the whole engine. 2008 Camrys were definitely covered. It's got the 2AZ-FE engine that had all the problems.
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Jun 13, 2019 04:17
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The Rev posted:It's a Camry, not a Corolla. Sadly well past the warranty. I guess it can't hurt to call a local Toyota shop, but i am sure it wont be worth the price if they need to lift the whole engine. Warranty ain't got poo poo to do with recall work. Get your VIN checked by the Toyota dealer.
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Jun 13, 2019 05:19
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Beach Bum posted:Warranty ain't got poo poo to do with recall work. Get your VIN checked by the Toyota dealer. And recalls ain't got poo poo to do with service bulletins, which this is. quote:Warranty info: This service is being performed free of charge under Toyota’s powertrain warranty, good for five years or 60,000 miles.
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Jun 13, 2019 10:08
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Motronic posted:And recalls ain't got poo poo to do with service bulletins, which this is. RIP me, thanks for the correction 
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Jun 13, 2019 15:26
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Beach Bum posted:RIP me, thanks for the correction Not to say that this and MANY other service bulletins shouldn't have been recalls, but they don't seem to do that unless the NHTSA makes them.
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Jun 13, 2019 15:42
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I borrowed a wheel off my zx2 since it isn't going anywhere, and the abs&traction lights went off right as I was leaving the driveway. The versa has 185/60R15 all-seasons and the zx2 has 195/55R15 direzzas so they aren't exactly the same size, but it's close enough to pacify abs until I get the wheel back from the tire shop.
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Jun 13, 2019 20:46
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98 Olds Regency ~175,000 miles 3800 v6 non-supercharged I had the starter replaced about 2 months ago along with some beat up battery terminal bolts. (may or may not be related to the problem below) May just be a coincidence that the problem popped up after I had this done. The last 2 times it has rained heavy (yesterday being the second time) the car has started to run rough and the check engine light was flashing. I borrowed a code reader and found that cylinder 4 was misfiring. The problem solves itself after the car sits for a while. I also do not believe it is just a moisture issue as it has rained multiple times in the last 2 months with the problem only happening with heavy rain. So I think it has more to do with some amount of water splashing on something. What that something is I don't know. I was looking for some guidance as to what to start looking at. My first thought was the coil packs but I don't want to just start throwing parts at the car if I can help it.
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Jun 13, 2019 21:25
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Farside posted:98 Olds Regency ~175,000 miles 3800 v6 non-supercharged One of the rare cases to "throw parts" at it. Plugs, wires, coil. The cost for all of this is dirt cheap in comparison to other makes so "thanks GM!". Misifirings are an odd dog. When it rains and you have an engine that is prone to misfires doesn't mean water is dumping in. A lot of it comes in with humidity and other factors.
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Jun 13, 2019 22:54
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C-Bangin' it 
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2015 Audi S3 51,000km My car has been making a single "click-click" sound from the rear end after braking for a while now. It seems to happen after I've been on the brake for a few seconds and then lift off the pedal. It also happens sometimes when I release the parking brake after being parked for a while. My dealer is 2 hours away, and each time I've gone to get this looked at under warranty, after 2 hours on the highway I can't reproduce the problem on demand. But while puttering around town at home, it literally happens every time I use the brakes. It's infuriating that I cannot reproduce it for the dealer, something about being on the highway for 2 hours makes the click go away for a bit. They've entertained me and "looked at it" but found nothing. I'm convinced it's the brakes, maybe a stuck piston when it retracts... I also thought maybe it was a brake pad moving around, but I had the pads and rotors replaced (for other reasons) and the click persists. Here's a poorly shot video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08u0QzZQ1R0 Anyway, now that the car is out of warranty I'm just going to have someone local look at it, but I'd like to go in with some indication of what the problem is. It's really loving loud and annoying. mik fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jun 13, 2019 |
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Jun 13, 2019 23:41
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Colostomy Bag posted:One of the rare cases to "throw parts" at it. Plugs, wires, coil. Aren't 3800's also pretty well known for coil issues? IIRC anyway.
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Jun 13, 2019 23:54
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opengl128 posted:Aren't 3800's also pretty well known for coil issues? IIRC anyway. Maybe, mine was Series II in a Park Avenue. Had a CKP failure but don't remember the coil pack going bad. Plug job wasn't fun, but wasn't bad. edit: should say coil packs, there are three.
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Jun 14, 2019 00:33
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Farside posted:98 Olds Regency ~175,000 miles 3800 v6 non-supercharged Your car uses "batch fire" - meaning it fires 2 plugs at a time. That coil is shared with cylinder #1; if it were the coil itself (not counting a crack on one side), you'd probably have a miss on #1 as well. I'd check the coil for cracks, but toss a set of spark plug wires at it while you're at it.
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Jun 14, 2019 16:02
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STR posted:Your car uses "batch fire" - meaning it fires 2 plugs at a time. That coil is shared with cylinder #1; if it were the coil itself (not counting a crack on one side), you'd probably have a miss on #1 as well. Dunno about that. CKP on these are pretty good at picking out a particular cylinder.
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Jun 14, 2019 18:38
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mik posted:2015 Audi S3 Does the clicking coincide with the weight being transferred back to neutral after deceleration stops? We know it goes away with heat.
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Jun 15, 2019 06:01
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Cracked rotor maybe? Loose caliper bracket? Binding in the slides?
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Jun 15, 2019 11:27
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I have a 2016 Mazda 6 that I'm leasing and will be turning back in in about 3 months. I'm going to take it to get pre-inspected within the next week or two, but I know of an area on the passenger seat and the glove compartment that will likely be classified as more than regular wear-and-tear. Any recommendations on how to make these two problem spots look better? 
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Jun 15, 2019 12:01
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I'd hit those with Mothers VLR (Vinyl Leather Rubber) and a microfiber towel and see how far that gets you. The first one could probably use the lightest of sandings, just to knock down any nubs. Maybe 600-800 grit. If the chair doesn't come back immediately, massage some lacquer thinner in there and see where that takes you. edit: but use a test spot first. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 13:30
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 My daughter did this with her bike on my new car. Anybody have a suggestion on how to buff this out or if it will even buff out?
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Jun 15, 2019 20:24
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Rythe posted:
Does your nail catch when you run over it? If it does, likely can’t buff it very well.
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Jun 15, 2019 21:10
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Ah, the joys of parenthood.
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Jun 15, 2019 21:22
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About half of it my nail catches on.
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Jun 15, 2019 21:30
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Hopefully this is the right place to ask. I'm trying to replace the starter on my 2002 Saturn SC2. I bought a new duralast dlg9986s starter and none of the posts are labelled so I'm not sure where the wires go. Pic of the posts https://i.imgur.com/A5CoJBR.jpg The left and bottom posts are 13mm and the right post is 10mm. I know the red and green wires go together. I tried putting those on the left terminal and the purple wire on the bottom terminal like it was on the old starter and it just sits and tries to turn over with no key in the ignition. Can anyone help so I don't burn this thing up? I'm thinking the purple might go on the right and the other two on the bottom? Shadowfyst fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 23:42
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Purple should be your starter trigger, should go on the small terminal on the right. Red should be your main battery cable and should go on the top terminal. Not likely that any wires should go to the bottom terminal since that's the contact coming out of the solenoid into the starter itself.
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Jun 16, 2019 00:36
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if I was trying to identify an old car based on some very strange memories, would this be the thread to ask?
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Jun 16, 2019 00:38
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Rythe posted:About half of it my nail catches on. That doesn't buff out.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:03
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:if I was trying to identify an old car based on some very strange memories, would this be the thread to ask? I'm curious, so say go for it.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:40
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it was a late 80s, early 90s car, 4-door and boxy like every sedan was back then. but the cool thing (and what sticks out most to me) was that like, when you turned it over it had a lovely lcd-esque 'good morning' or 'good afternoon' or whatever. fake edit: i want to say i think it was a Plymouth? it was my grandpa's car but no one seems to be able to tell me what exactly it was, just that they remember it like i do.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:40
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Brainstorming help: I need to bend a Subaru front crossmember forward about 1/2" at the driver's side. The vehicle is in a garage, the control arm is off so it's not going anywhere and I don't have any trees to strap something around in my yard anyway. I have a couple floor jacks, a couple jackstands not currently being used, tie down straps, assorted socket wrenches and sockets, a breaker bar, pipe wrench, claw hammer, and rubber mallet (somewhere). The bolt holes in the crossmember are maybe 12-14mm, so a chunky steel chain doesn't seem like it would fit around there any way that I can think of even if I bought one. What could I do in order to bend it? One suggestion a friend had was buy an air hammer and pound at it with the air hammer, although I'm not sure if that would just end up collapsing one wing and I would have to bend the other one back out still? He also suggested using his hi-lift jack to sort of winch it into position but A: I'm not sure what to attach the other end to in a featureless garage and B: I'm not sure how to attach the jack to the crossmember. And there's the concern of if you could even accurately do a 1/2" pull with something like a hi-lift, which isn't a precision piece of equipment. I also just thought of the possibility of using the real winch on his truck parked outside the garage to pull it, but since the car is facing toward the back of the garage, I would have to loop it through the tow hook or something on the front of the Subaru so it would be pulling forward, and I'm not sure how much pressure the tow hook can stand before bending vs the crossmember. The other possible option is trimming a little rectangle off of the bracket on the lower control arm bushing so it fits in place, but I feel like that's just going to ensure that it's impossible to ever get the alignment right.
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Jun 16, 2019 03:07
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:it was a late 80s, early 90s car, 4-door and boxy like every sedan was back then. but the cool thing (and what sticks out most to me) was that like, when you turned it over it had a lovely lcd-esque 'good morning' or 'good afternoon' or whatever. Sounds like a K-car. Reliant or some sister car. "The door is ajar."
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Jun 16, 2019 04:03
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:it was a late 80s, early 90s car, 4-door and boxy like every sedan was back then. but the cool thing (and what sticks out most to me) was that like, when you turned it over it had a lovely lcd-esque 'good morning' or 'good afternoon' or whatever. My granddad had a 1980 something (82 or 84) Chrysler Lebaron hat had that poo poo. "Please Fasten your seatbelts" "Your Door is Ajar" "Thank you" And so on. My old Italian Grandfather: "Shut up you sonofabitch"
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Jun 16, 2019 05:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Purple should be your starter trigger, should go on the small terminal on the right. Red should be your main battery cable and should go on the top terminal. Not likely that any wires should go to the bottom terminal since that's the contact coming out of the solenoid into the starter itself. That was it. Thank you!
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Jun 16, 2019 07:35
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Alright fellas, I need your help/advice. I'm trying to clean water marks off my side windows and wing mirrors. It's a pain in the rear end because my windows and mirrors look like they've got dirt on them all the time, so it makes seeing through them difficult. I've hit them with glass polish (this stuff). I've tried diluted vinegar, scrubbed with bicarb, made a paste of vinegar and bicarb, tried rubbing alcohol and mineral spirits, and nothing helps. Here's some pics, sorry for the clarity but its quite hard to catch on camera, as I'm sure you can imagine:    This window was wet, but the splotches stick around even when its dry. As I said above, when you're actually looking through it, it looks like dried dust/dirt. My fingernail makes a squeaking noise whenever i run the tip of it over the affected area, but it doesn't do it on the smooth/clean part of the windscreen (where the wipers clean). There's also a very light texture to it. The car is a 2002 Suzuki Liana that actually belongs to my fiance's parents, but we're using for the time being, since they're quite elderly and can't drive. Sorry if I missed a really obvious post pointing this out, but there was nothing in the last 10 pages or so, and nothing in the OP about it, and I'm at my wits end here.
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Jun 17, 2019 08:43
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Be forewarned, I have no idea how it could turn out, but headlight restorer paste and a dremmel with a sponge pad?
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Jun 17, 2019 09:22
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