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So, I think my closet is getting too hot for my ER-X. I’d love to help it by having a small fan blow air through it instead of it sitting passively. Any recommendations for a fan setup for an er-x? I’m thinking tiny computer fan plugged into a controller of some sort, but I can’t find what I’m looking for on amazon...
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Jun 13, 2019 20:38
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El Jebus posted:So, I think my closet is getting too hot for my ER-X. I’d love to help it by having a small fan blow air through it instead of it sitting passively. Any recommendations for a fan setup for an er-x? I’m thinking tiny computer fan plugged into a controller of some sort, but I can’t find what I’m looking for on amazon... Why do you think that? Is the internal temperature of your ER-X climbing forever? Does your closet get hotter forever? The sheet for it says 113F, and doubt you're getting that hot in a closet unless it's amazingly well insulated. https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/edgemax/EdgeRouter_X_DS.pdf
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Jun 13, 2019 21:14
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H110Hawk posted:Why do you think that? Is the internal temperature of your ER-X climbing forever? Does your closet get hotter forever? The sheet for it says 113F, and doubt you're getting that hot in a closet unless it's amazingly well insulated. The closet does get hot because we keep the door closed to keep the cat hair out and it has a hatch to the attic where the central air does it’s business, but said AC isn’t ducted into the closet... The closet isn’t getting to 113, but the ERX is getting close. I had it mounted on a board and taking it off has already helped. Something to force air over it just seems like it would help. The best solution would be to reroute all the Ethernet cables to an air conditioned room... but that’s real work. I ended up buying a usb powered fan that I can just plug right into the UPS.
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Jun 13, 2019 21:38
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El Jebus posted:The closet does get hot because we keep the door closed to keep the cat hair out and it has a hatch to the attic where the central air does it’s business, but said AC isn’t ducted into the closet... The closet isn’t getting to 113, but the ERX is getting close. I had it mounted on a board and taking it off has already helped. Something to force air over it just seems like it would help. The best solution would be to reroute all the Ethernet cables to an air conditioned room... but that’s real work. Excellent idea. That was going to be my go-to suggestion. Lots of consumer electronics get quite hot in their day to day use, but most of the time it's just fine. How are you finding the temperature? `show hardware temperature` is coming back as "unsupported" on mine.
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Jun 13, 2019 21:48
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Cheapo IR thermometer on the front and back of the case. Spot checks of between 98 and 107F, so I'm assuming maybe hotter inside.
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Jun 13, 2019 22:15
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Resource posted:Is there a reason to get the Archer C9 over the Archer A9? I can't tell if there are any important differences. MU-MIMO seems like a positive feature of the A9, and the price is lower, which seems odd for a newer model with what appears to be about the same capabilities. Pretty sure the A# is actually the replacement for whatever the corresponding C# are anyway. I know with my C7 I had 5ghz dropouts very frequently and ended up replacing it, but I think the A series are generally supposed to be better
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Jun 13, 2019 22:35
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I'd like to move my access point closer to my office. Two questions: 1) What is there a limit to how long a cat6 cable can be before signal deteriorates? 2) Since I rent, I can't open up the walls, which means I'll have to run this cable along the baseboards. Any recommendations on products I can use to secure it in place that aren't too obvious?
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Jun 14, 2019 03:55
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Listerine posted:2) Since I rent, I can't open up the walls, which means I'll have to run this cable along the baseboards. Any recommendations on products I can use to secure it in place that aren't too obvious? Bob Socko fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 04:15
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Listerine posted:I'd like to move my access point closer to my office. Two questions: Cat 6 is good for 100 meters or 328 feet. There's specifics for how much of that is solid core vs. stranded patch cables but unless your house is extremely big it probably won't be an issue.
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Jun 14, 2019 04:30
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Listerine posted:2) Since I rent, I can't open up the walls, which means I'll have to run this cable along the baseboards. Any recommendations on products I can use to secure it in place that aren't too obvious? Cable staples help keep things neet. Monoprice has what you need. I assume.
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Jun 14, 2019 05:00
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redeyes posted:Thats funny, every time I try this it doesn't work out. I always separate my bands so I can pick myself. Something you're doing, perhaps? It's worked out fine in the 100+ ish sites that I've designed or installed.
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Jun 14, 2019 06:00
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Rexxed posted:Cat 6 is good for 100 meters or 328 feet. There's specifics for how much of that is solid core vs. stranded patch cables but unless your house is extremely big it probably won't be an issue. Actually it's 90+5+5. You run 90 meters solid core and have to leave 5 meters on either end for patching.
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Jun 14, 2019 06:50
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SEKCobra posted:Actually it's 90+5+5. You run 90 meters solid core and have to leave 5 meters on either end for patching. Isn't that literally what they said "There's specifics for how much of that is solid core vs. stranded patch cables "
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Jun 14, 2019 09:00
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Stormgale posted:Isn't that literally what they said "There's specifics for how much of that is solid core vs. stranded patch cables " That is what I said but I know I've been plenty pedantic about details myself so I chose not to worry about being "actually"ed. More information is good, I was just glossing it over originally due to brevity and the nature of the install needing 100m being unlikely.
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Jun 14, 2019 09:48
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Fair, i'm the dumbass fretting over Router + AP choices for a simple home network (probably 10~ wired devices + a few wireless in a small house with 200mb) so I probably shouldn't be saying anything. I'm probably just going with an Edgerouter X With hardware offloading + a lite AP + some unmanaged switches as most of the devices on the switch are unlikely to be active at the same time (smart TV + some consoles for example).
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Jun 14, 2019 11:09
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Something is borked regarding my DNS and I can't figure it out. And I dont know if all of the things I've messed with have made it worse. Ubuntu 18.10 headless in virtualbox on Windows 10 host. Before it stopped working, everything was collected from the DHCP server, with the router handing out my Pi-Hole IP address as the DNS. But as part of my fiddling I've tried cutting out PI-Hole. But still nothing. code:code:Edit. Been in the Linux thread. MeKeV fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 11:36
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I got my pair of EAP245 V3's in and honestly I'm a little underwhelmed. For testing purposes I set them up near to my existing Archer C9 routers (one as router, one as AP) and if anything their signal strength is slightly weaker than the C9's. I've been using NetSpot on a laptop go survey the signals. I was at least planning on replacing the C9 AP with one of the EAP's, but now I'm thinking about returning one and using a 3 node setup. The main weak spot in my coverage remains the garage on the basement level of my 1960's raised ranch. The signal seems to not like going through the cinder blocks between it and the finished basement. Would I be better off putting an AP above the garage (there are 2 bedrooms above it)?
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Jun 14, 2019 14:29
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I don't really know how to troubleshoot this. I got an Ooma Telo voip thingy. When I plug it in to a switch hooked up to my ERL, my internet connection gets very flaky. I set up a continuous ping to google.com and I see that every few minutes latency spikes up to 1200+ms or even times out and this lasts for a few minutes. Then it goes back to my regular like 15ms ping for a few minutes. Rinse and repeat. Any ideas?
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Jun 14, 2019 17:11
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Thermopyle posted:I don't really know how to troubleshoot this. That sounds like maybe a bad unit or a weird config. I used to use an Ooma for VOIP and it never caused any trouble with my network although I wasn't using an edgerouter. The only thing I could find with a quick google search was this guy saying that when he used cloudflare DNS his Ooma would trash his connection but if he used google DNS it didn't: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeRouter/EdgeRouter-4-not-working-with-Ooma-Telo/td-p/2302248
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Jun 14, 2019 17:36
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Looking to upgrade some old equipment, not sure which route to go. Current setup is a ISP provided modem/router/wifi in a detached office/garage. There's a Linksys PLS400 to do ethernet over power to the main house, which then has a Linksys WAP54G connected to it. Even though the two structures are very close to each other, it's a log cabin with large logs and the wifi doesn't seem to penetrate it at all. That's why we went with the ethernet over power adapters. Any recommendations for what to look at to upgrade this setup? fletcher fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 18:07
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Is there a specific problem you're trying to solve? Speed, reliability etc?
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Jun 14, 2019 19:34
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Thanks Ants posted:Is there a specific problem you're trying to solve? Speed, reliability etc? Reliability is probably the main one. For whatever reason the WAP54G decided to reset itself to factory defaults over the winter. So mainly looking to replace that I think. A mesh setup between the two structures would be nice as well, so they at least share the same SSID.
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Jun 14, 2019 19:51
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If the distance between the two is not large enough for there to be any overlap with the wireless networks then you don't need to worry about a mesh/clustered setup - just set the SSIDs and keys to the same values. I'd recommend replacing the powerline bridge with some sort of wireless link or buried cable if those are possible, it should improve the performance.
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Jun 14, 2019 19:57
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My area is getting fiber (Century Link) and I've decided it is a good time to upgrade my system. Currently working with an Archer C7 router and arris modem. I'm planning to get a: Edgerouter Lite, AC Lite, and TL 8port switch. Anything I should know before purchasing?
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Jun 15, 2019 20:16
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Edgerouter js good for gigabit as long as you don’t turn on the IP security stuff, but otherwise is a pretty proven and solid platform
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Jun 15, 2019 21:13
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goodness posted:My area is getting fiber (Century Link) and I've decided it is a good time to upgrade my system. Currently working with an Archer C7 router and arris modem. I'm planning to get a: Edgerouter Lite, AC Lite, and TL 8port switch. Anything I should know before purchasing? I would consider looking at the ER-4 instead -- the Lite does have issues with the internal USB drive failing occasionally (it's recoverable once you switch the internal flash drive out, but annoying -- it's happened to both units I've used), it's drastically more responsive during configuration, and can actually handle respectable amounts of non-offloaded traffic (wireguard, etc.). If you'll have a gigabit connection and care about maxing it out you'll be stuck on the older 1.10.9 firmware for now since the just-released 2.0.3 firmware has a 5-10% performance penalty to hardware offload (which is required for routing at line rate). The downside is that configuring IPv6 for the older firmware has to be done in the CLI since the web interface support for it is all in the 2.x series of firmware which has been pretty rocky so far. It seems like they're going to keep updating 1.10.x as needed until the issues are ironed out. The Lite may still be good enough for your use case, especially since the ER-4 is a lot more expensive. The issues with their recent firmwares have been a little concerning but I don't have a better recommendation.
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Jun 16, 2019 11:58
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Hey all, hoping you can help me sort something out that came out of the blue and I can't wrap my head around why it suddenly stopped working. My high-level network structure was as follows: Modem -> Router (Nighthawk X6 R7900) -> Unmanaged switch -> Bunch of hard-wired devices and 2 other Unmanaged switches to a bunch of other devices in another sections of my home. This set up worked for quite a long while with no issues. Suddenly, one of my unmanaged switches (the one behind the other) stopped working. The devices couldn't get an IP, the XBOX complained of having a connection but no DHCP server. So, I re-ran some cable to have the 'slave' unmanaged switch to have a direct connection to the router. Same issues. Ordered a new switch online thinking that one died, still same issue. Thinking I messed something up with the cable creation, I plugged the ethernet directly into the Xbox, perfect. Works great. Swapped the other 'slave' unmanaged switch and it worked. When I put the new switch where the old one was, now those separate group of devices didn't have a connection. It's as if these two unmanaged switches refuse to be active at the same time. If I disable one, the other gets a connection. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this? The strangest thing is that I have had this configuration for quite some time with no issues. I did make some minor alterations to my router recently, but do not think that it should have had an impact. I turned on some guest wi-fi networks and made my primary SSID 5ghz instead of 2.4. I played around with the built-in parental controls (Circle) and thinking that was meddling, turned it off and the continues to occur. e: Googling mentioned issues with some switches that are on the wrong subnet so DHCP wouldn't work, but since these are unmanaged there's no way to configure or adjust them. Thought I'd mention it as it 'feels' like that's part of the issue. TraderStav fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 16:21
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Of course I didn't stop troubleshooting after posting this, but I THINK it may be working. I started thinking that I may be generating the loop somehow by a device connected to that switch, although it isn't likely. So I fired the problematic switch back up with only the xbox connected and started adding the critical devices I needed to see if it started to fail. After getting the ones I needed the most (my Denon receiver and unused Blu-ray player can deal without a network connection) it's still working, so good? I'm not convinced as it's been so mercurial and waiting for a kid to scream that his Fortnite update isn't working...
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Jun 16, 2019 17:02
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Hello! My home router is an Asus RT-N66U, which has a USB port, which has a big USB hard drive plugged into it, which I'm trying to share on my home network. Unfortunately it seems like this router only supports SMBv1, which is disabled in Windows 10 due to its extreme age and serious security issues. Asus' own advice to get this working again - linked from the router admin console when using the most recent firmware - just says to switch the SMBv1 feature on again in Windows. Is there another way I can work around this or do I just need a new router (which judging by the OP would be an Archer C9)? Or is the SMBv1 security situation not as big a deal as I think? Or is the RT-N66U old enough to justify getting a new one anyway?
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Jun 16, 2019 20:26
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Forget my earlier message, now it's not working again.
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Jun 16, 2019 22:28
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qntm posted:Hello! My home router is an Asus RT-N66U, which has a USB port, which has a big USB hard drive plugged into it, which I'm trying to share on my home network. Unfortunately it seems like this router only supports SMBv1, which is disabled in Windows 10 due to its extreme age and serious security issues. Asus' own advice to get this working again - linked from the router admin console when using the most recent firmware - just says to switch the SMBv1 feature on again in Windows. You could try and see if the latest version of Asuswrt-merlin (which is no longer in active development for your router, but could be new enough to have the feature) supports SMBv2.
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Jun 16, 2019 22:36
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qntm posted:Hello! My home router is an Asus RT-N66U, which has a USB port, which has a big USB hard drive plugged into it, which I'm trying to share on my home network. Unfortunately it seems like this router only supports SMBv1, which is disabled in Windows 10 due to its extreme age and serious security issues. Asus' own advice to get this working again - linked from the router admin console when using the most recent firmware - just says to switch the SMBv1 feature on again in Windows. Support for stuff like that is always half-assed at best, as you are finding out. I wouldn't suggest relying on it on any router. If you never take your device off-network then re-enabling smbv1 (which is effectively plaintext authentication) isn't the worst thing in the world. If you do take this device out into the wild I wouldn't do it.
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Jun 16, 2019 22:53
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Since we're on the subject of Centurylink, I moved to a house that can get gig fiber cheaper than 200Mbps cable. I have been using an ex-r/ac ap for awhile now and wouldn't mind keeping the er-x. I can't find anything anywhere that says the ex-r can do pppoe/vlan tagging. I see that the er-x sfp does it, as well as the usg/erlite etc etc. Anyone know if this is possible before I buy a USG (or something else, Mikrotik? Recommendations would be rad).
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Jun 16, 2019 22:58
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Canna Happy posted:Since we're on the subject of Centurylink, I moved to a house that can get gig fiber cheaper than 200Mbps cable. I have been using an ex-r/ac ap for awhile now and wouldn't mind keeping the er-x. I can't find anything anywhere that says the ex-r can do pppoe/vlan tagging. I see that the er-x sfp does it, as well as the usg/erlite etc etc. Anyone know if this is possible before I buy a USG (or something else, Mikrotik? Recommendations would be rad). The Edgerouter X does support vlans and pppoe. You can add a vlan interface in the dashboard by clicking on the Add Interface dropdown, then you can configure pppoe settings for that vlan interface in the same Add Interface dropdown. You should also be able to configure this using the wizards as well. e. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aIXBjuo-do
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Jun 16, 2019 23:22
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Actuarial Fables posted:The Edgerouter X does support vlans and pppoe. I owe you a beer. The er-x should do low 900s with hardware offload enabled, correct?
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Jun 16, 2019 23:50
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Canna Happy posted:I owe you a beer. The er-x should do low 900s with hardware offload enabled, correct? It does on my network.
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Jun 17, 2019 00:06
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As long as you have QoS disabled, yes.
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Jun 17, 2019 00:10
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I think my ~2-year old qotom pfsense box is dying. The WAN port seemed to be strangley losing the connection and not re-aquiring it or getting DHCP leases (direct connect to modem worked fine). Switched to another port, worked OK for a month, now having similar issues. Maybe it's a software issue but idk. I have also had a few crashes, like 1-2/year, randomly where the box would freeze up and need to be reset. That's a big bummer for me, especially when I am sometimes away for periods of time and need VPN access to my home servers. So I think I want to replace it with something more reliable. (Right now I am temporarily back to my old Asus home router so I want to buy something ASAP.) As far as router needs: - 1Gbps connection, must be able to comfortably route 1Gbps - (Connection right now is 1Gbps down / 20Mpbs up - sad but it's a great price - may upgrade to a 'business'-class upstream in the future) - Dozens of devices on the network, multiple simultaneous users (sometimes heavy use), servers being accessed externally on a regular basis - QoS features are nice but not strictly required (no good if they cap routing bandwidth, suspect Gigabit QoS is $$) - OpenVPN support needed - Ability to graph/log monthly bandwidth usage. Connection is not metered but may one day be; I like to know the usage as it can often be quite high. - The house wifi and main switches are all Ubiquiti/Unifi gear. I was thinking towards the SG-3100 for the 'official' pfsense experience. But I have power concerns and I've seen some stability concerns?  I was also thinking of the EdgeRouter 4. I don't know if it has all the features I need. Any thoughts on either of these, or something else? admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jun 17, 2019 |
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Jun 17, 2019 01:50
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ComWalk posted:I would consider looking at the ER-4 instead -- the Lite does have issues with the internal USB drive failing occasionally (it's recoverable once you switch the internal flash drive out, but annoying -- it's happened to both units I've used), it's drastically more responsive during configuration, and can actually handle respectable amounts of non-offloaded traffic (wireguard, etc.). I'm strongly considering this now since the ER-4 is only $60 more
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Jun 17, 2019 02:12
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admiraldennis posted:I think my ~2-year old qotom pfsense box is dying. Unifi UDM would tick your boxes if you can get one, they are in the Unifi beta/early access program. It has new hardware and would replace your Unifi controller. Otherwise perhaps get a $49 ER-X (QoS and other fancy features disabled) to buy you some time and get the VPN up and running. I’ve had bad experiences with official pfsense hardware in the past and am also looking to get away from their platform for that reason.
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Jun 17, 2019 06:20
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