|
Mephiston posted:Alright fellas, I need your help/advice. Clean the glass first with glass cleaner, then 0000 steel wool, spray bottle of water (I use distilled because I have it on hand for other things) and a ton of time. I've done this to multiple vehicles, notably two 1985s. You do exactly what you think you do, mist the glass and rub with light pressure. You'll feel the resistance change as you go.
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 09:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 20:22 |
|
|
I will give that a try, thanks. I'm going to be paranoid the whole time about scratching the glass with the steel wool, though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 12:49
|
|
|
Mephiston posted:I will give that a try, thanks. I'm going to be paranoid the whole time about scratching the glass with the steel wool, though. Have you tried this stuff first? 
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 13:07
|
|
|
I doubt its much of a thing, if it is at all, but has anyone ever flashed a hybrids ECU to provide more power? I see the sum horsepower of the two engines of a random hybrid being 250+ and then it ends up having 140-160 horsepower in practice, it seems like it has to be programmed to let off the electric motor as the gas engine spins up, unless the parasitic loss from having two engines working together is 30-40%. I would have thought they would let both go whole hog when planted flat-out, but maybe that wasnt considered necessary/good for their image. I recognize that with a few exceptions hybrids are meant for fuel economy, so its not going to be a widespread thing. Im just wondering if its a thing people have done at all.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 15:30
|
|
|
You can't just sum them as the two engines have their peaks at different points in the RPM range. I mean, the electric engine puts down most of its power at 0 RPM. That's essentially 0 hp from the gas engine at that point. But, go look up some of the hybrid super cars. They put electric motors at each wheel adn do amazing things with power delivery.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 15:56
|
|
|
My buddy was installing a new head unit into his car while his car was powered on (dumbass) and seems to have blown a fuse and his dash lights aren't working. He can't find the correct fuse. Can anyone help? 2005 chevy classic.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 16:27
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:I doubt its much of a thing, if it is at all, but has anyone ever flashed a hybrids ECU to provide more power? I see the sum horsepower of the two engines of a random hybrid being 250+ and then it ends up having 140-160 horsepower in practice, it seems like it has to be programmed to let off the electric motor as the gas engine spins up, unless the parasitic loss from having two engines working together is 30-40%. I would have thought they would let both go whole hog when planted flat-out, but maybe that wasnt considered necessary/good for their image. There are kits for hybrids that spoof the battery charge level to the ECU over the CANBUS to make the hybrid system use far more electric power than normal. These kits are normally used to turn older hybrids into plugin hybrids, they involve a second lithium ion battery pack. This doesn't increase the overall horsepower though. My Prius C has a 71hp gas engine, and a 60hp electric motor. The quoted total system horsepower is 99hp. This limitation is actually from the battery - apparently it can only provide like 30hp worth of electricity. With enough charge in the battery, this car can easily get itself going faster than the quoted 0-60 times, but it can't do it constantly. When you're pushing it a lot (like mountain driving), the hybrid system will run out of power, and you'll be stuck with just 71hp, and it'll be a lot slower.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 16:54
|
|
|
Uthor posted:You can't just sum them as the two engines have their peaks at different points in the RPM range. I mean, the electric engine puts down most of its power at 0 RPM. That's essentially 0 hp from the gas engine at that point. To add to this, most hybrids are built to exploit these two different power peaks. Pretty much every mainstream hybrid uses some form of Atkinson cycle on the gas engine, sacrificing some torque and outright performance for better fuel economy, and using the electric motor to make up the difference.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 17:15
|
|
|
Wait, do the gas engine and electric motor have to be spinning at the same RPM? With old (brushed) RC motors slow used to be 35k RPM or so, I didnt think larger brushless ones would be 10-20% the speed. Or is it a constant ratio between the electric and gas motors or something? I also thought that an electric motor should have a completely linear hp curve, so it shouldnt peter out at the top end or anything. Just going off of horsepower being the function of torque times rpm divided by some constant I cant remember. With torque being a constant on an electric motor it should be completely linear, right? Or am I missing something about how modern electric car motors work? My only hands-on experience is with the old brushed RC motors, which are about 1/1000th the size and Stone Age technology comparatively. I hadnt thought of the battery not being able to provide the discharge rate to fully juice the motor for anything more than a second or so, thats pretty dumb.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 20:52
|
|
|
Depends on the type of hybrid. If it's the kind where the motor is in-line with the engine in the power path, yeah, the RPM of the two is always going to be conjoined. The Prius has a neat transmission setup where the two inputs don't have to be at the same RPM.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 22:20
|
|
|
Satellit3 posted:I posted this on MyG37 but please help if you have some thoughts, thanks. opengl128 posted:Any codes? Satellit3 posted:I don't have a thing to pull that. No lights on the dashboard though. StormDrain posted:Get one. Hello! I bought a BAFX scanner. The issue has not returned since it arrived, but I wanted to ask some 'baseline' questions. Does this look normal at idle after a ~30 min drive?  Is it ok that the 'fuel pressue' and 'intake manifold pressure' gauges have no data? Most of the other things I turned on do show data. Finally, the 'throttle position' gauge only goes up to 89 when I have it pinned. Problem? I'll report back when I catch the beast in the act...
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2019 23:47
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Anyway yeah my plan is to check for blow-by and the tablespoon of oil in the cylinder thing, but like 90% sure I'll be doing the valve stem seals. I'll leave off on doing the cat, see if a hot cat, heavy oil, and the seals results in a pass. Following up. Reminder, this is a green 1992 chevy S-10 4.3l V6 automatic, failed smog mostly due to blue smoke/snap throttle test/too much smoke at 15mph, + high HC. I previously tested compression on all six cylinders cold. This saturday, I tested two cylinders hot, first as-is and then after adding a tbsp or so of oil through the spark plug hole to each cylinder, in turn. First: no blow-by that I could see from the dipstick tube. The valve covers do not have exposed vents, although each has a tube that goes into the throttle body, I did not notice any flow from them but I wasn't really sure how to look for that. For now let's assume no significant blow-by. pre:Cyl# Starter revs PSI PSI with oil added 1 6 68 66 9 116 110 12 135 145 15 150 165 18 165 180 21 175 185 24 175 195 3 3 60 6 60 95 9 100 140 12 120 160 15 140 180 18 160 190 21 165 190 24 175 195 27 179 31 179 I only checked 2 cylinders because A) it's supposed to be a hot test and the engine was cooling as it sat, and B) I was burning my knuckles on the goddamn manifolds, and C) gently caress cylinder 2, the steering shaft interferes and it's a pain in the dick work that hole. Also my wife was helping and she got sick of helping and doing it alone sucks too. Anyway my takeaway from this limited test is: compression takes longer to come up with the engine hot than it did when cold; but, it tops out at a higher pressure, too. It comes up faster with oil added than not, and reaches a higher max compression with oil added as well. e.g., some wear on the piston rings, yeah? This engine has 225k miles, so that's to be expected. This is all with just normal 10w30, not high-mileage oil. Think I can still get away with just doing the valve stem seals? I don't have a sense of how bad these numbers are.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 00:05
|
|
|
Mephiston posted:I will give that a try, thanks. I'm going to be paranoid the whole time about scratching the glass with the steel wool, though. To clean shower glass I use even parts white vinegar to washing up liquid and a pair of old tights to scrub, you could try that
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 00:11
|
|
|
Mephiston posted:I will give that a try, thanks. I'm going to be paranoid the whole time about scratching the glass with the steel wool, though. I went and dug up pictures from the 1985 Hilux Surf we had. This hard water spotting did not budge with anything else I tried, which was water/vinegar mixes, various hard-water chemicals, stuff like that. I like the 0000 steel wool and water combo because you don't have to worry about any trim or metal contact or anything since it's just water.   Beware those green scotch pads, those fuckers WILL scratch glass. I had zero scratches with 0000 steel wool though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 01:51
|
|
|
e: nevermind
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jun 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 03:10
|
|
|
Uthor posted:My buddy was installing a new head unit into his car while his car was powered on (dumbass) and seems to have blown a fuse and his dash lights aren't working. He can't find the correct fuse. Can anyone help? Assuming he's already double checked the dash brightness switch to make sure he didn't turn them down all the way, it'll be the parking light fuse. Should be in the interior fuse box, though GM likes to play hide the fusebox on their cars. I think the 05 Classic should have it on the left side of the dash, behind the side panel that meets the door. If it's not there, it may be in the trunk on the driver's side, behind the trunk carpet. Let me guess, he cut the original harness instead of using an adapter harness? The adapter harness lets you wire the stereo up on your kitchen table, then just plug it in (makes it a lot easier to return to stock too). Mephiston posted:I will give that a try, thanks. I'm going to be paranoid the whole time about scratching the glass with the steel wool, though. That's why you get 0000 - aka "super fine grade". You'll probably need to go to a home improvement store to find it; it's not what you wash dishes with, it's meant to be used as a final finish/polish for woodworking and metal. It's usually stocked next to sandpaper. Lowe's will tell you exactly where in the store it is once you select your nearest store.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 11:27
|
|
|
Thanks! STR posted:Let me guess, he cut the original harness instead of using an adapter harness? The adapter harness lets you wire the stereo up on your kitchen table, then just plug it in (makes it a lot easier to return to stock too). I wasn't there, but I'd guess he used an adapter. He had one on the stereo he was replacing and sent me a photo of some wiring when he was doing it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 13:28
|
|
|
I've never owned a car in my life, but I need to buy one that will last me one or two years, and a campervan makes sense for my current situation (for 2-4 night trips, not living in it). I'm inquiring about a 1997 Mitsubishi Delica and received the following reply:quote:there has been a bit of water loss when I was in Wa I got a new radiator and expansion tank it has been fine but occasionally I still add water so might ben something fredter going on imnnot sure Can anybody translate this? Is this something that needs repairing and if so what might that run me?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 14:30
|
|
|
Kasumeat posted:I've never owned a car in my life, but I need to buy one that will last me one or two years, and a campervan makes sense for my current situation (for 2-4 night trips, not living in it). I'm inquiring about a 1997 Mitsubishi Delica and received the following reply: It's got a coolant leak somewhere, and it might be anything from a loose hose clamp to a blown head gasket. Have a mechanic take a look at it before you buy it. A 20+ year old car is going to need lots of maintenance continuously. It will be a great learning experience if you want to learn to turn wrenches yourself, but if that's not what you're after, something <10 years old might be a better choice.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 14:43
|
|
|
Not related to your enquiry but CHECK THE SUNROOF DOESN'T LEAK amazing the number of people who buy old cars and don't bring a bottle of water to pour on the roof and around the gutters. Goes double if you're going to be living in it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 14:53
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:It's got a coolant leak somewhere, and it might be anything from a loose hose clamp to a blown head gasket. Have a mechanic take a look at it before you buy it. My situation is that I'm living abroad for a year or two and will have to sell when I return. I'm not opposed to learning repairs, but I don't want to have to invest a huge amount of money in paying for lessons nor the tools that I assume it'll require. But if that'll still be better value than paying for repairs, I'm certainly not opposed. I'm scared of dropping fifteen+ grand on a newer vehicle that might depreciate a lot while I own it, whereas an older model will barely depreciate at all. I figure the extra cost of repairs will be worth it for the lower overall risk of investment, but I'm certainly open to the notion that I might be wrong.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 15:44
|
|
|
what is better and cheaper than a camper van is a car, and also a tent
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 15:54
|
|
|
I've got a 2007 Jeep Liberty with a suspected torque converter shudder. Under very constant and light load, it kind of stutters or surges/fades. It's not profound, but just a bit... jerky. It's most obvious on at about 20-30 mph when on smooth road and applying light, even throttle. I thought maybe it's the TPS, but this thing doesn't have a separate TPS so I can't just stick one in. Also, there it idles fine and it gets decent mileage (for an old, high-mileage Jeep). Anyone got any thoughts? I've got an OBDII thing I can hook to my laptop for diagnostics, but IDK what I'm even looking for.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 16:13
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:what is better and cheaper than a camper van is a car, and also a tent I find the level of comfort much, much lower in a tent.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 16:14
|
|
|
Forget idea of being able to wrench on what you live in, if it involves a) taking parts off to reach other parts, or b) a jack You'll likely be on campsites, and that's usually soft ground or at best gravel. Have fun lying under your van on that. Don't get under your car if the ground is at all soft or unstable. Of course you could park in a shop's carpark but again, you're asking to get a visit from the police or for someone to run your legs over Both campsites and carparks don't take kindly to people stripping bodywork or bits of engine gubbins into a pile while they track down a fault. I can change oil and filter, but I couldn't do it if I didn't have my own space or the right space to actually do the work
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 16:30
|
|
|
Kasumeat posted:My situation is that I'm living abroad for a year or two and will have to sell when I return. I'm not opposed to learning repairs, but I don't want to have to invest a huge amount of money in paying for lessons nor the tools that I assume it'll require. But if that'll still be better value than paying for repairs, I'm certainly not opposed. A 10-year-old car has already lost about 80% of its value. Depreciation will not be a serious cost issue. After another couple years, you'll sell it at a slight loss, mainly because you have to sell it and can't hold out for a better offer. Depreciation is a serious issue if you're buying new, not so much buying used. Repairs are a serious consideration. You might get lucky and have no major issues, but anything and everything could go bad at that age. Plastics age and get brittle and will snap without warning. Rubber likewise oxidizes and decays, so hoses and belts and engine mounts might pop at any time. There could be rust eating away at the frame that you can't see. An old car is one you drive for short distances, always within towing range of a repair shop. I suspect you'll spend a roughly equal amount of money either way - either through depreciation on a newer car, or through repairs on an older one. Choose your poison. An alternative might be a hatch or wagon that you can drop the rear seats and roll out a sleeping bag in the back.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 16:34
|
|
|
Kasumeat posted:I find the level of comfort much, much lower in a tent. harden the gently caress up
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 17:09
|
|
|
Id much rather a tent than trying to sleep in a cramped van where all my poo poo is competing with my sleeping space
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 17:13
|
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:cramped van where all my poo poo is competing with my sleeping space Geesus, walk a few feet outside and away when you need to do #2.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 17:16
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
like you are living abroad for a year or two, and instead of: buy sensible five year old car that is reliable and won't depreciate much and is readily available, drive around, commute, take it car camping, sell easily to a very large market when you leave you are planning to: buy idiot 22 year old camper van that is unreliable and horrible on fuel, commute in it, drive around, and take it camping so you can be marginally more comfortable when you are camping, and then try to sell it to the tiny market of "idiots who want a 22 year old camper van" what country are you moving to because if it's a gray market import EVEN BIGGER gently caress NO MAN
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 17:17
|
|
|
Also have you lived in a car or a tent for longer than a few nights before? You might regret that decision and a car is a lot easier to live with than an old rear end van when you decide you want an apartment instead.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 17:19
|
|
|
Kasumeat posted:I've never owned a car in my life, but I need to buy one that will last me one or two years, and a campervan makes sense for my current situation (for 2-4 night trips, not living in it). calm down, people, he's not planning to live in his van for 2 years, it's for going camping in sometimes. a 20 year old campervan is gonna be a fair amount of work, though, and is not the ideal vehicle for commuting. Kasumeat, how often do you expect to go camping? You could maybe rent a camper if it's like 4 times a year or something, and make up most of the money just in fuel savings by also owning a fuel efficient small car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2019 19:31
|
|
|
Hi AI, I finally got sick of the Japanese voice in my car telling me to put my ETC card in so I removed the reader. I was planning to mod it to say something stupid but in my googling I found that people are actually installing them in their cars. My question is would it be worth trying to sell it / does anyone want one? I would have to ship from NZ. I'm not sure it would be worth much here since heaps of cars are imported with them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 05:00
|
|
|
I'm from PA, possibly buying a used car from a private party in DE. I've read both states DMV requirements but I'm still a little confused on how it goes down with regards to registering/title transfer. So the seller signs the title over to me, and then hands me the keys to the car. The car will at this point not have plates because the previous owner is supposed to keep them. Can I drive it the 2 hours home and then register/title it in PA the next day, or do I have to transfer the title in DE and get a temporary tag? Chances are the only times I'm going to be able to buy the car the DMVs will be closed that day. Can someone just walk me through it? Assume I am an idiot.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 14:49
|
|
|
Elysium posted:I'm from PA, possibly buying a used car from a private party in DE. I've read both states DMV requirements but I'm still a little confused on how it goes down with regards to registering/title transfer. I don't think PA does temporary transit tags. You take your title to a tag agency and they give you your plate and you'll get the PA title in the mail. When I bought a car privately in NJ I just put one of my old PA plates on it. I don't know that there's a legit way to do it short of bringing the title back to PA to get your plate then going back for the car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 16:18
|
|
|
Elysium posted:I'm from PA, possibly buying a used car from a private party in DE. I've read both states DMV requirements but I'm still a little confused on how it goes down with regards to registering/title transfer. The only legit way to do this that I'm aware of, other than trailering the vehicle back home, is to bring the signed over title to a title service in PA and they will register it and give you plates. (note: I'm assuming DE titles don't need to be notarized and work like NJ titles) Go back, put them on and drive home. I've done this a couple times in NJ. I just take the keys and lock the car up, then I can just throw tags on and go when I return. I would strongly recommend against what opengl did in the age of nearly every cop car having plate scanners on them now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 19:01
|
|
|
Yeah, buying a car inter-state on a weekend is a pain in the rear end to do legally without a trailer. I looked in to it once for MD->OH and ended up just renting the U-Haul to get the car home.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 22:07
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I would strongly recommend against what opengl did in the age of nearly every cop car having plate scanners on them now. Let's just say theoretically this car is the same make and model and same color, but newer (slightly different body style) as a car I already own... Elysium fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jun 19, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 23:06
|
|
|
Elysium posted:Let's just say theoretically this car is the same make and model and same color, but newer (slightly different body style) as a car I already own... How risk averse are you? Proper response: I'd call up the DE BMV and ask. Might be a simple solution to get a temp tag that won't aggravate the seller too much. As in, his time is valuable by his standards but if it doesn't take long may not mind. And a place for the final transaction. Plead your case. Off the record response: Take the plate off one of your other vehicles, slap it on, drive the speed limit, use turn signals and come to complete stops. You'll need a VIN inspection and the usual paperwork/sales tax hoops.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 23:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 20:22 |
|
|
Calling 2JZ Wizards! Got a 99 lexus es300 with the 3.0 2jz GE vtt with like 250k on it. Car has sat for a while and got towed in with a no start condition. Hooked up a battery and it spins like it lost the Timing belt. Belt seams fine, and timing marks seam spot on. Taking off the crank pully i noticed its rubbing on the timing cover. There is a super small amount of thrust play in the crank. Tech refuses to do any more diag and says the engine is toast. Reading different sources I cant get a solid answer if this is an interference motor or not. ANd would a little play in the crank be enough to write of the engine? Cranking it over it doesnt sound like it has compression so im sort of siding with him but also I thought these things were supposed to have a beast of a bottom end.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2019 23:24
|
|
