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I swear this thing is a bit quieter after all the work was done. Put on a new pump, new idler pulley, and a new tensioner, but none of them were noticeably gritty at all. The pump was maybe a tiny bit stiff at worst. Whatever, not complaining. Threw a new valvecover gasket on it. Top end looks good, aside from a PO goobering RTV onto a Felpro gasket (but only the head side?) and managing to get globs of it on a few pushrods, rockers, and even a valvespring. I'm guessing that was done at newest three years ago. Whoever did it, also was lazy and didn't swap the rubber part of the bolt grommets. They were rock hard and a different design than the ones that came with the Felpro. I'm also slightly surprised it wasn't throwing any vacuum leak codes. The grommets for both PCV elbows were utterly rock hard, and the hose from the front one to the inlet tube was cracked and barely taped together. The only way to get the elbows out was to break the rubber into chunks. Luckily none of them fell into the baffle. Probably going to hit dirt in it tomorrow for the first time, might swap the spacers on first, might not.
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Apr 21, 2019 07:55
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Good work! You're going to have a blast in that thing. Ujoints and shafts seem nice and tight?
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Apr 21, 2019 17:27
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As far as I can tell, yeah. No reason to believe they aren't yet.
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Apr 21, 2019 18:38
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Unrelated to any off-road ability... The TJ came with a Silencer remote that doesn't seem to work at all. I'd rather not have an alarm on it, so I'm more concerned with trying to remove or at least permanently disable it. Some Googling says a lot of Chrysler dealers put these on when new. Anyone have any idea where to dig this thing out? IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Apr 22, 2019 |
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Apr 22, 2019 02:31
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 Quick and slightly dirty, didn't even bother airing down or disconnecting. Still, feels good.
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Apr 22, 2019 04:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Anyone have any idea where to dig this thing out? Pull the lower dash panel and look for the vampire taps, scotch locks, and half a roll of tape? 
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Apr 22, 2019 04:20
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You're probably right. I need to go diving into the wiring anyway, the passenger airbag off light started blinking randomly tonight. At least the interior is super easy to tear apart, and it's a good excuse to blast out nearly two decades of dust.
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Apr 22, 2019 04:39
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Center caps are a no go, there's nothing to keep them remotely centered while mounting the wheels. No big deal. Used a 3M kit on the WJ's headlights as part of prepping it to sell. Looks a lot better:  After:  I will say that if I were keeping this long term, I'd probably just replace the lights instead since they're so cheap to buy for this vehicle. I might polish the ones on the CR-V, but I haven't priced out replacing them. They're nowhere near as bad. Speaking of the CR-V, it has intermittently been giving us long cranks. It cranks as soon as you hit the key and spins hard, it just spins a few times before it actually fires.
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Apr 29, 2019 01:27
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Fwiw, I had to polish our crv headlights about 8 months and they still looked good, right up until they crashed into a deer. If you try cycling the key on a few times before cranking, does it make a difference?
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Apr 29, 2019 01:39
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I haven't been able to do any real diagnostics yet, it's so infrequent (but not "never"). Half the time it happens, I habitually release the key when it would normally start and it just shuts off. Now that it's happened a few times I make a point of holding the key a bit longer. When I have to recrank it, it fires basically instantly.
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Apr 29, 2019 04:18
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sharkytm posted:Try finding anything for an 8-lug truck that isn't the worst thing you've ever seen. Good god, there is ZERO for options other than OEM. Have you heard the good word of our lord and saviour, the Soft 8?
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Apr 29, 2019 06:37
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8ender posted:Have you heard the good word of our lord and saviour, the Soft 8? Not available in 8x180, and over 17", according to Cragar's website.
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Apr 29, 2019 12:51
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If only soft 8s were made for 4 lug...
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Apr 30, 2019 07:32
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STR posted:If only soft 8s were made for 4 lug... Diamond, but I'm always skeptical of the affordability of any vendor that doesn't list a price.
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Apr 30, 2019 07:44
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So how do you think Diamond Soft 8 knockoffs would look on a Saturn?
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Apr 30, 2019 07:48
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STR posted:So how do you think Diamond Soft 8 knockoffs would look on a Saturn? Better than a lot of other things you could do to it, I bet
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Apr 30, 2019 07:50
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sharkytm posted:Not available in 8x180, and over 17", according to Cragar's website. TIL I thought Soft 8's were more or less a universal option
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May 1, 2019 05:02
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Oh, I love it when I go to swap wheel studs, knock out all of the old ones on a wheel, and then realize that the ones I ordered have too large of a knurl to even remotely fit in the axle. That was an annoying waste of time (and  ). At least it looks like the drum brakes were done recently-ish since the shoes have plenty of life and the springs have colored paint like an aftermarket set.
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May 3, 2019 04:49
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PSA: Dorman 610-449 wheel studs have the right knurl size to fit in the early TJ axle, and are probably fine if you're using them either with 1.5" spacers or with no spacers at all. With 1.25" spacers, they protrude just enough to foul on the back of a steel wheel mounting surface. I'll just take a cutoff wheel to them tomorrow and trim a few threads off.
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May 5, 2019 06:05
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Sold the WJ Saturday. Fastest I've ever sold a vehicle, and second best for sale price versus purchase price. (Ranger I actually sold for $200 more, but I'm sure the money on armor and the lift helped inflate the WJ's value). TJ status, at least on Saturday:  I went ahead and installed the rear tube fenders, but apparently haven't bothered to photograph them. The sliders have to go on after the front fenders, but after redoing the rear studs so many times I didn't have the drive to try and accomplish that today. I got the first five studs cut with a die grinder and the cutoff wheel arbor from Harbor Freight, before said arbor managed to bend itself. I then did another three and a half studs with my old Black & Decker RTX dremel-clone, since my wife wasn't home and I no longer have another Jeep to drive. After 3.5 studs (and a lot of cutting wheels) I thought to myself, "I wonder how hot the RTX is getting". Immediately after, it let the smoke out and started arcing loudly. Went to Lowe's and got one of (two, actually, not dealing with not having a spare again) their arbors, along with some grinding pads, and finished trimming the last studs easy. Drove it around running some errands tonight, driving it to work tomorrow. Still plenty of things left to do but it's in a decent spot now.
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May 6, 2019 06:21
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I had an old $15 "JobMate" drill that I decided would handle mixing thinset and it started releasing a lot of magic smoke after about five minutes. I let it cool down and figured that was the end of it but it kept on going. It's still going to this day. It smells like hot whenever I use it. It crushes through joists, thinset, and Subaru balljoints. Nothing can stop it. When our sun explodes it will be cast into the void and retrieved by a civilization that will recognize it as the tool that cannot be broken.
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May 6, 2019 06:53
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I have a Milwaukee M12 rotary tool already, and that B&D had already had its share of hot suppers and then some. It served its purpose.
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May 6, 2019 18:02
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8ender posted:I had an old $15 "JobMate" drill that I decided would handle mixing thinset and it started releasing a lot of magic smoke after about five minutes. I let it cool down and figured that was the end of it but it kept on going. It's still going to this day. It smells like hot whenever I use it. It crushes through joists, thinset, and Subaru balljoints. Nothing can stop it. When our sun explodes it will be cast into the void and retrieved by a civilization that will recognize it as the tool that cannot be broken. My Ryobi cordless impact has been letting a small amount of smoke and sparks out since day one, and reeks of ozone every time I use it. Oddly, it shoots the big sparks when I let my finger OFF the trigger (otherwise it looks like any other brush motor, visible sparks through the vents but nothing actually coming out of the vents until I let off, but still gives off the ozone smell). I guess maybe it has an electric brake? I figured it was just brushes that weren't broken in, but 6 months later, and it's still doing it. Hasn't gotten any worse or better, it works fine, just don't use it around anything that can go boom. I should probably try to warranty it before the warranty runs out.It was $100 with a 4aH battery and charger, best price I'd seen on a 1/2" cordless impact. Harbor Freight has a low end impact with similar specs for $130 now, if Ryobi won't warranty this then I'll jump to that. I don't have any other cordless tools yet, but I do like that I can go to a pawn shop and get any Ryobi cordless tool and use any Ryobi battery on it (and also with my charger), regardless of battery chemistry. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:47 on May 7, 2019 |
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May 7, 2019 06:45
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Given the lack of rear windows, I think this is the first time the Jeep has been washed in years. Looks much better, even though the paint is utterly poo poo:  The hood, cowl, and grille are the worst by far; I may eventually rattlecan them. The driver's side has a fuckload of hard water spots but otherwise the rest of the tub / passenger door are decent.
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Jun 3, 2019 02:59
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Finally started cutting on the front fenders today. Spent some time in the morning going after it with an air die grinder before realizing that it wasn't going to get me anywhere, so I bought the $35 harbor freight 4.5" grinder. Jesus Christ that thing can cut. Wife decided to take a photo of me making spark showers before I called it a night. I've got most of the cuts needed done except for separating the rear lip from the upper lip, and the one directly behind each front wheel. 
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Jun 16, 2019 05:37
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The death wheel is a fickle mistress. Ever so tempting and willing to please, but it will ruin your day in a second, whether it be cutting something that shouldn't have gotten cut or exploding into a million pieces at the speed of light and impaling your face with shrapnel.
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Jun 16, 2019 23:50
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Yeah I'm using prescription Z87 goggles, along with a 3M face shield. Not loving around with that kind of rotational energy.
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Jun 17, 2019 01:00
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Good man. I always double-up when the grinder comes out. That poo poo spins way too fast to gently caress around. Also, if you haven't already, pull the head apart on that HF grinder and replace all the crap-rear end grease with some decent high temp poo poo. I've had mine for a few years now and have fed it quite a few got suppers and it just keeps coming back for more.
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Jun 17, 2019 03:26
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I thought about that, I probably should.
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Jun 17, 2019 04:22
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Got the fenders wrapped up enough to drive tonight. I still need to do some more trimming on the passenger side to make things fit a bit better, but didn't realize that until after 11, and thanks to living in suburbia, my driveway workspace is ten feet from bedrooms.
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Jun 19, 2019 08:52
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Spent some more time with the angle grinder and the drill last night, managed to get sheetmetal tweaked around enough to be happy with the fenders. Today, decided to wire in the turn signals properly so I can stop having the OEM bulbs ziptied to the front bumper. Pulled the interior apart to get to the flasher module so I can replace it with a LED-compatible unit, and...  There's the alarm I thought this thing had.  Yeeted. Yote? I don't know. It's the gently caress out of there and the only wiring I had to repair was connecting the starter wires back together since the alarm was configured to lock it out. I never once was able to arm this thing, not that I even bother locking the Jeep. I just didn't want the chance of it deciding to freak the gently caress out and causing a no-crank. Given that the manufacturing date code on the alarm (2001) is actually older than the interior plastics (early 2002), this had to be a dealer-installed unit. They did abuse vampire taps but if they haven't failed in 17 years, I doubt they will now.  Wired the signals in the headlights into it as well. Technically this means I lack any sort of front sidemarker light. The fenders came with some two-wire 3/4" LEDs, I might see what I can do to mount them pointing sideways. Looking at the photos now, it'd be trivial to drill the fenders somewhere adjacent to the mesh panel and do it that way, and now I'm slightly irritated I didn't think of that before I finished up wiring for the day. To-do listnow feels considerably smaller: *Install sliders *Install sidemarker lights *Change gear oil in both axles *Front rotors / pads *Front swaybar bushings *Shocks *Spark plugs *Engine oil + oil sample *Buy a fire extinguisher to go with the mount my wife bought me, install both *Buy a jerry can because I've got the mount already, why the gently caress not *Probably whole new set of tie rod ends and an alignment *Eventually maybe get around to installing CB and ham radios and get my technician license again
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Jun 24, 2019 04:34
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How are those LEDs for driving at night? I've wondered how they'd be stuck in a classic car, given the amount of customers I have around here with old junk.
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Jun 24, 2019 04:52
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Far better than the sealed beams that were in it (as well as the sealed beams that are still in my C10). They probably throw a bit more light up high than they should, but I haven't been flashed yet.
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Jun 24, 2019 05:41
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I'll tell you that if they aren't DOT/E-Code approved, they're blinding the gently caress out of everyone. In my neck of the woods, LEDs on Jeeps are pretty common, and I've yet to see one that wasn't horrible to drive at from the front. Not as bad as the lightbar-on-the-roof-and-grille-and-bumper-and-mirrors-and-everyfuckingwhere crowd, but still bad. I think everyone has just given up on flashing people.
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Jun 24, 2019 13:54
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They've got DOT approval molded into the lenses, so at least there's that.
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Jun 24, 2019 14:36
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Wow, then maybe they aren't bad. DOT requirements are pretty strict.
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Jun 25, 2019 01:28
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And no aftermarket light manufacturer ever has put DOT stamps on something without it actually being approved. 
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Jun 25, 2019 09:32
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Surely you jest! I will say that they don't seem to throw light nearly as far down the road as a projector setup would, but I doubt any other LED on Amazon has that kind of optic either.
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Jun 25, 2019 14:47
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FWIW, I did the valve adjustment on the CR-V and it was a little fiddly, but not that bad. Car seems to run more smoothly at idle. Pretty much every valve adjuster was just a little tight. I used this guys method, with the one change being that our newer motors don't have a convenient PS bolt to spin the motor over - I had to use the crank bolt that's accessible in the wheel well without removing any fender liner or anything. Also his clearance specs were off on one...I think the intake, by a slight amount. I used the specs found in my Haynes manual (verified they were correct).
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Jun 25, 2019 23:25
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I needed another car to work on, right?
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Jun 28, 2019 05:54
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