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Beach Bum posted:Did it seep into the floorboards? If not you should be good. Clutch should dry out just fine as well. Carpet isn't wet.
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 05:50 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 16:39 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Carpet isn't wet.
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 06:14 |
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Preoptopus posted:Late to battery chat but . PaintVagrant posted:Carpet isn't wet.
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 09:08 |
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Just had a stupid idea. Are there any battery driven engine block heaters? I suspect the power required would be too much, but still. Googling doesn't really lead me anywhere (except car battery heaters).
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 11:30 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Carpet isn't wet. your golden
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 11:47 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:Just had a stupid idea. Are there any battery driven engine block heaters? I suspect the power required would be too much, but still. Googling doesn't really lead me anywhere (except car battery heaters). You’d nuke the battery pretty pronto. Block heaters are generally like 500-800 watts. Some awful back of the napkin math as an example; A brand new, fully-charged Optima yellow-top would run it (without accounting for losses from the inverter, since all block heaters I’ve ever seen run on 110vac,) for about an hour and a half.
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 15:12 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:In the US there are two lead acid battery manufacturers and everything is just a rebrand of their product. Bosch does not make their own batteries. There's 3. Don't forget about East Penn - they make Deka, some house brands, AC Delco, and East Penn. Bosch is made by Exide. Preoptopus posted:Ive had good luck with Napa pro batteries. They are johnson controls i believe. Deka makes most Napa batteries. PaintVagrant posted:The car started and I was able to extricate it from impending doom. It seemed to run fine going home, but the clutch engagement seemed maybe a bit jerky the first few miles. Hard to say for sure, I dont know if water could get to the clutch friction plate or something when some of the transmission is immersed like this. Yeah, a wet clutch will absolutely chatter/be jerky. Last time I submarined my car, it took a couple of miles for the clutch to get back to normal, and that was with water coming over the front bumper (a little water got inside my car, but not much - not standing anyway, just wet carpet around the doors).
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 16:06 |
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If it's freshwater, you should be fine. If it's salt, pull the seats & carpet & rinse it with fresh water. In any event, leave the windows open on a sunny day for a few days; if security's an issue (at work, etc) leave the windows slightly cracked. I had a company 1996 Cirrus that had (fresh) water come over the doorsills & fill the wells in 1997. I was able to pull the drain plugs & let the sun do the rest. Had no problems through turn-in 3-years later. e: PaintVagrant posted:Carpet isn't wet. Thirding: no problems, carry on
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 16:48 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:I don't recall even touching the clock spring, but your reaction indicates it's an expensive and/or difficult fix if that's what's broken? Yes. (expensive)
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 17:40 |
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If you didn't pull the steering wheel or disconnect it from the column, and didn't pull more than a very gentle tug on any wires where they come out (preferably no tugs - remember, YOU'LL GO BLIND IF YOU TUG ON IT, JIMMY), the clockspring is (probably) okay. You said the switch you replaced is somehow tied into the horn circuit? Not just the harness, but the actual circuit?
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 17:43 |
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09 Corolla. I hear a buzzing noise coming from somewhere. I turn (swerve) one way, it stays. Turn (swerve) the other way, it goes away. I forget which direction. To me that sounds like a wheel bearing, but can't hear it on all surfaces. I'm suspicious if its just noise from the tires, or if, when I can't hear it, its because of road/tire noise being too loud. I jacked up each wheel the other day and grabbed/shook/spun/etc. and couldn't feel any play. Aside from using a dial indicator and measuring runout, is there any other sort of voodoo way to check for a bad wheel bearing? Or anything else it could be? Axle? It *Seems* to be coming from the driver side, but havn't been able to pinpoint.
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 21:48 |
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Rotate the tires and see if it moves to rule out the tires Does it go away when you lightly depress the brake pedal? Wheel bearings usually sound like a quiet roar at speed and will make the car pull the direction of the bad bearing randomly when cruising at speed, if they are bad enough, in my experience.
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# ? Jul 7, 2019 21:52 |
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I’ve got a couple of speakers which are attached via something very like wood screws to a plastic housing that rattle loose when off-roading. If I wanted those screws to never ever come out again, what kind of Loctite or Loctite like product should I coat the screw in before I put them in the next and last time? (It’s a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and the rear speakers, and yes, it left the factory like that.)
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 03:18 |
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Blue is a good first choice. If they are that loose epoxy.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 03:21 |
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wesleywillis posted:09 Corolla. if your feeling brave, lift up the front on jack stands, chock the rear tires, turn your traction control off and have someone drive it in the air as put your ear to the wheel as it spins. I wouldnt reccomend crawling under it and putting a screw driver to the back of the knuckle as a scope tho. Prolly easier and way safer to just find a shop that does free suspention checks. If it is a wheel bearing, its gonna be a press in. Cheapest way to go about it is to pull the knuckle off, take it to a parts store that has a shop in the back and have em press it in for you. usually they will give you a break if you buy the bearing from them.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 03:25 |
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I've got an 07 Jetta that I took on a short (1.5 hrs each way) road trip over the weekend and now it has a problem. We did the drive on saturday, and yesterday when I went to go to the grocery store, it was apparent when it started up that something was wrong. It idles loud, like the muffler has been damaged or removed, and any time I even touch the gas pedal it struggles and gets very loud. It's an automatic and when driving it doesn't seem to want to go up a gear. I suspect the transmission is the problem, so I've scheduled an appointment to have it looked at, but that's not till early next week. My questions are: How fine am I to drive it till then? It won't kill me if the answer is "don't drive it till you're taking it to the shop," but still. How much would it generally cost to replace the muffler? the transmission? If it's gonna be $5K then I'll start looking for a new car. I'm guessing it's closer to $750-1000 though.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 13:29 |
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STR posted:If you didn't pull the steering wheel or disconnect it from the column, and didn't pull more than a very gentle tug on any wires where they come out (preferably no tugs - remember, YOU'LL GO BLIND IF YOU TUG ON IT, JIMMY), the clockspring is (probably) okay. Yeah, here's a picture of the CC assembly: Those two spade connectors attach at the top of the two horn switches: The two horn switches are the vertical bars w/ the Torx screws:; They're basically just two metal plates with springs. The spade connectors connect at the top of the front metal bar (one closer to driver), and pushing it it makes contact with the back metal bar (one closer to engine.) Maybe moving them around and whatnot caused the plastic insulation pieces to move and the metal parts are making contact? But, as said, it is on (solid, steady on) even if I 100% disconnect the spade connectors from the horn switches, so I think maybe the harness has a short and is grounding them out? And yes as the screen grab from the Youtube vid indicates, the pink wires are at the top. I never took the wiring harness off of the button-side, a new one came with the new buttons so I only had to plug it in to the connector in the clock spring. I will see if I have time today to unplug the CC harness and see if that stops the horn. If it does, then it's a bad CC assembly, if it doesn't, then I guess it's the clock spring.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 13:48 |
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Update on my Fiesta submarine. Smelled mold this morning in car, rear carpets are soaked. Not sure how I didn't see that on Saturday. Guess I'm calling my insurance company.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 15:17 |
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Hopefully your comp deductible is low (like $250 or less). If no modules got wet, they'll probably just pay for either new carpet or for some professional cleaning.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 15:23 |
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Hope so. It's 250 I think.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 15:32 |
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Need a quick bit of help. Friend's car, 2004 Accord coupe. Front end got smacked up in a hit & run. Deductible is higher than it's worth to have it repaired but he'd rather his wife not drive it without a bumper. He removed it so he's confident he can put the new one on. But the core is dented and my ebay searches are not coming up with good results. Any help here would be appreciated. No visible damage to radiator or AC. Or would the best course be to just put the new cover over it?
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 16:22 |
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Chakan posted:I've got an 07 Jetta that I took on a short (1.5 hrs each way) road trip over the weekend and now it has a problem. We did the drive on saturday, and yesterday when I went to go to the grocery store, it was apparent when it started up that something was wrong. It idles loud, like the muffler has been damaged or removed, and any time I even touch the gas pedal it struggles and gets very loud. It's an automatic and when driving it doesn't seem to want to go up a gear. I suspect the transmission is the problem, so I've scheduled an appointment to have it looked at, but that's not till early next week. Sounds like you have an obstruction in your exhaust system, maybe a plugged catalytic converter? It may have started leaking from upstream now. I'll let someone else chime in on the rest of the questions I don't know the answer to.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 16:42 |
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Rhyno posted:Need a quick bit of help. TBH, it gave its life and I have a hard time believing bolts would line up.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 16:51 |
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Rhyno posted:Need a quick bit of help. Hammer time. The cover probably won't line up right until the core is either replaced or straightened out. There's a reasonable chance that the frame horns are tweaked too - the gap on the driver's side (both hood to fender, and headlight to fender) suggests that happened. It looks minor, so it would probably only be an issue with headlight alignment and bumper fitment (aside from the gaps). It looks like the lower radiator support may be tweaked a little too - I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be flat, instead of having an upward curve. Does your friend have UM/UIM coverage? In some states, that covers hit and runs, and generally with a low deductible. Something like that basically starts at $1500 just for bumper damage, and I'm gonna ballpark this as a bit more than that (possibly more than the car is worth, since an 04 Accord is worth maybe $3k). Hopefully he still has the bumper cover in case insurance asks, if he does file a claim - that became a big issue when I got in a wreck years ago; I tore what was left of the bumper cover off so I could drive the car home instead of towing it, and left it in a dumpster (it was split into 2 pieces anyway, with several other major cracks in it). My claims adjuster gave me hell for doing that.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 16:52 |
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That was my thinking but we're trying to save them on this repair, they are not flush with cash at this time of year. I suppose replacing the core support isn't going to be easy either? Edit: they have bottom of the barrel minimum coverage insurance.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 16:53 |
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If everything lined up perfectly, it'd be easy - bolt off, bolt on. But with the driver's side frame horn probably bent..... not happening without a fight. If they just need it to drive until they can afford to either fix it right or replace it, hit a junkyard, get a styrofoam core and bumper cover, stop by Harbor Freight for zip ties, and do your best to get the left headlight aimed properly again (not that it's doing much to light up the road in its current condition...). It won't be pretty, but it'll run and drive. And the damage is far enough ahead of the front suspension that it shouldn't affect alignment.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 16:55 |
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We checked all local yards, no compatible bumpers that are not shattered. He says the headlights are aimed properly based on the YT tutorial he watched.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 16:59 |
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Granted I'm not some body man expert but my daughter tagged another car while backing out in her jeep when in high school. If you saw the the damage, you would think it was a joke but caused a leak in the radiator. To replace the radiator, I actually had to futz with the drain plug to find the clearance to get a new one back in. In short, clearances are that tight on stuff.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 17:34 |
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The Accord has a pretty generous engine bay (from engine to radiator) if it's a 4 cylinder; it's designed for a V6, but not many get optioned with the V6.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 17:35 |
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Well he's gonna see if he can get the core off. I don't have the time to help him in person.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 17:42 |
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Actually based on the gaps, it looks like it might be really close (headlight aim, anyway). Time to hit up LKQ or some other aftermarket suppliers, just get an unpainted 3rd party bumper. Half of the 9th gen Accords I see driving around are rocking them anyway.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:04 |
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We found one for $70 shipped and he ordered it. He's gonna grab his brother in law and see if they can un gently caress the support.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:07 |
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He really needs to get the styrofoam core to help support it (also to help keep it from punching through the radiator if he taps a flower). Luckily there's junkyards full of them.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:08 |
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STR posted:He really needs to get the styrofoam core to help support it (also to help keep it from punching through the radiator if he taps a flower). He said the foam inserts were intact but I'll pass it along.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:10 |
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Just buy him an account at this point
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:23 |
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^^^ Yeah, lowtax needs a few more bux.BlackMK4 posted:Rotate the tires and see if it moves to rule out the tires Preoptopus posted:if your feeling brave, lift up the front on jack stands, chock the rear tires, turn your traction control off and have someone drive it in the air as put your ear to the wheel as it spins. I wouldnt reccomend crawling under it and putting a screw driver to the back of the knuckle as a scope tho. Prolly easier and way safer to just find a shop that does free suspention checks. If it is a wheel bearing, its gonna be a press in. Cheapest way to go about it is to pull the knuckle off, take it to a parts store that has a shop in the back and have em press it in for you. usually they will give you a break if you buy the bearing from them. gently caress, I'm not that brave.... Worst case I'll probably just buy a whole spindle/hub from rock auto and swap it rather than just get the bearings. If I had a hydraulic press I'd press them out/in myself maybe.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:48 |
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Rhyno posted:We found one for $70 shipped and he ordered it. He's gonna grab his brother in law and see if they can un gently caress the support. A tree and and a tow strap can do wonders.
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 19:59 |
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Colostomy Bag posted:A tree and and a tow strap can do wonders. I figured this could end with the bumper ripped off. But hey, if AI suggests it what can go wrong?
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# ? Jul 8, 2019 20:11 |
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I would suggest going to a local junkyard and just getting a support, my local yard sells stuff like that for like $20 and you won't have to spend a day trying to hammer that into roughly the right shape. Also I figured out my VW accessory noise, I finally decided to pull the belts and found the bearing was burned on the alternator. The whole car vibrates a lot less now. The AC also has a slight something in there but it is so minor I'm going to ride it for a while. Anyone have any tips on making a new V-Belt not squeak when breaking in? It's more annoying than anything. It's not slipping it is just squeaky until it warms up. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jul 9, 2019 |
# ? Jul 9, 2019 03:12 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 16:39 |
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Autoexec.bat posted:I would suggest going to a local junkyard and just getting a support, my local yard sells stuff like that for like $20 and you won't have to spend a day trying to hammer that into roughly the right shape. If you're absolutely certain it's tensioned correctly, hit it with some belt dressing.
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# ? Jul 9, 2019 03:49 |