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Yeah, first thing I checked. The new belt is quite a bit stiffer than the old one and the pulley alignment could be better so I'll give the dressing a try, didn't know it was a thing.
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Jul 9, 2019 04:19
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I thought we hate belt dressing?
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Jul 9, 2019 04:24
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Charles posted:I thought we hate belt dressing? Right up until it does the job. It's run the drive belts (with periodic applications) on my walk behind mower for about a decade. That $4 bottle replaced $60 worth of belts plus labor for a long time. Everything has it place.
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Jul 9, 2019 04:35
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Charles posted:I thought we hate belt dressing? Well I'm not eating it without dressing, it's dry and flavorless!
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Jul 9, 2019 13:20
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Newman's Own is the best belt dressing by far. A nice flavor and it will take a second off your lap times at Lime Rock.
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Jul 9, 2019 14:08
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My wife's 14 Odyssey developed a bit of an odor about a week ago. I figured it was wet pool stuff left in over night, cleared a bunch of stuff out but it didn't go away. Smell got bad enough I thought one of the kids had left some food behind so I pulled all the car seats...nada. I've pulled everything out, and the smell isn't overpowering, but it's definitely got a whiff of dead animal to it. Anyone got any tips on where it might be coming from? Check the wheel wells for squirrels?
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Jul 9, 2019 22:27
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Clogged drain line for the AC evaporator core, possibly?
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Jul 9, 2019 22:42
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If it's a damp smell inside I don't think it's a dead animal. But still, sure, check the grills for roadkill, also open your doors and clean along the sills. I drove through a patch of wet sheep poo poo before, cleaned the car top to bottom 3 times with a power washer and sponge bucket, still smelt like literal poo poo. Turns out it somehow got in between the closed door and the sill. Check your cabin air filter too, may need replacing. Mine's behind the glovebox, don't know where yours would be. Lots of AC places round me also advertise using the whole "car smells damp? Come see us!" so if they do something other than the cabin air filterand as MetaJew suggests, the drain line (never had cause to go to one myself) then maybe try taking the car to them I also had an issue with damp inside, not from blocked sunroof drains but because the hose that connects to that drain had come loose under the headliner. But the drains under the rubber seals on the roof should probably be where you look first before removing the headliner or A-pillar facias. Beyond that, I dunno, hire a carpet shampoo?
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Jul 9, 2019 23:25
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I've had a slow leak on a tire on my M3. I was at Costco today and I was gonna have them patch it. They didn't find a puncture but they did find a small crack on the inside of the tire. They don't think it's what was causing the leak, but the tire is obviously going to need to be replaced. Is this safe to do normal driving on until I get a replacement set or should I just not drive the car for now?
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Jul 10, 2019 03:37
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Anyone have any thoughts on what this toolkit is from? My dad was about to give it to goodwill but I rescued it. The roll is a little dirty but the tools themselves are in fantastic shape.  I don’t recognize that logo at all   A wheel chock!   Any thoughts on what this is from besides “a Toyota”
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Jul 10, 2019 03:51
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The logo also says "Toyota" トヨタ
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Jul 10, 2019 03:59
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A quick google says it is likely from a 70's model give or take and may be worth a fair amount ($100-200) especially in that good of shape judging by eBay. It could be off nearly any model by the sounds of it. I am kind of surprised by that, my guess would have been late 80's based on the stamping of the wrenches/chock. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 04:18
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fknlo posted:I've had a slow leak on a tire on my M3. I was at Costco today and I was gonna have them patch it. They didn't find a puncture but they did find a small crack on the inside of the tire. They don't think it's what was causing the leak, but the tire is obviously going to need to be replaced. Is this safe to do normal driving on until I get a replacement set or should I just not drive the car for now? If you haven't noticed anything up to now, you're probably all right until you get a replacement. Maybe don't put it in Sport mode and lay off the spirited driving until then, however.
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Jul 10, 2019 04:39
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Anyone have any thoughts on what this toolkit is from? My dad was about to give it to goodwill but I rescued it. That looks QUITE familiar! The oldest JDM vehicle I've gotten a toolkit from has been an 1985 Hilux Surf (JDM 4Runner)     Newer toolkits (into the 90s) look like this:  I've got a few 90s Land Cruisers right now and they nave that last style of bag, with similar tools to the 85 (raised portion in the middle with the name stamped on them). My guess is your toolkit is late 70s early 80s going off of the 85 Surf toolkit I had. As they get newer they tend to loose color, and I've never seen an orange wheel chock. Like was mentioned though trying to narrow it to a specific vehicle is going to be difficult, best you can probably hope for is an "era", and I'm guessing into the 70s or very early 80s based on what I've seen. We had a 1991 Toyota Crown Wagon that had the same style of toolkits as the Land Cruisers so I don't believe they gave significantly different kits for different Toyotas. For the logo yeah that's just a JDM Toyota one, it's on the back of our 91 Prado: 
KakerMix fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 04:43
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I've got a stock front hub on my 2wd atv. Tried using a three jaw puller and the stem developed a crack by the eyelet. Tried heat and beating on the back of it with no luck. Pb blaster hasn't worked. I have a hf press but I don't know what to push on with this? The stem will probably shatter but I need to get these rusted on bearings off. Should I bring it to an auto shop?
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Jul 10, 2019 15:28
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It's flooding here and, while I am NOT going to drive through flood water, I'm curious. The flood water pushes the car once the force overcomes the traction of the wheels, right? So at that point it's too late to back up because the tires have lost traction, is that right? Or is the car getting pushed not going to stop it from moving under its own power?
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Jul 10, 2019 16:53
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Don't forget the car is buoyant too, it can float and lift right off the pavement. Even unloading the suspension in concert with wet pavement means no traction without even losing contact.
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Jul 10, 2019 17:00
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StormDrain posted:Don't forget the car is buoyant too, it can float and lift right off the pavement. Even unloading the suspension in concert with wet pavement means no traction without even losing contact. This, and the risk of water ingestion into components. It's not great for your transmission or axle(s) to suck in water, but your engine sucking some in the intake can stop you dead.
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Jul 10, 2019 17:06
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Right, a friend was like "gonna go to work, I got a wrangler" and I was thinking that hydrolock / electronics was not the worst case scenario, and that a vehicle made to not get ruined by water up to the floorboards could still, you know, get washed away.
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Jul 10, 2019 17:25
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Wranglers are somewhat better equipped than most vehicles, but they can still get washed away no problem. The deepest water I've ever driven through was up to the hubs at some points, and even then I was driving straight into the flow (up a wash). I also wouldn't have attempted it if I was solo, but I was in a group with similarly / more capable Jeeps.
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 17:33
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Jack B Nimble posted:Right, a friend was like "gonna go to work, I got a wrangler" and I was thinking that hydrolock / electronics was not the worst case scenario, and that a vehicle made to not get ruined by water up to the floorboards could still, you know, get washed away. Besides drowning, hydrolock is a worse case scenario.
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Jul 10, 2019 21:10
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Besides drowning, hydrolock is a worse case scenario. There's levels of drowning, too.  Long time ago 'round here, someone was washed out of their Jeep and into a drainage culvert. They found the body days later in a stormwater drainage pond.
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Jul 10, 2019 22:24
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Guessing model-specific knowledge would be thin on the ground, but can anyone give me some good rules of thumb for finding how to remove my front bumper? It's a '93 Lite Ace which is a sort of semi cabover (you basically sit on top of the engine), so you can't pop the bonnet, it's just a piece of metal welded to the frame. I've tried getting in from underneath but it seems like the bolt heads are on the upper surface, which is darn near impossible to access.
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Jul 11, 2019 08:27
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Guessing model-specific knowledge would be thin on the ground, but can anyone give me some good rules of thumb for finding how to remove my front bumper? It's a '93 Lite Ace which is a sort of semi cabover (you basically sit on top of the engine), so you can't pop the bonnet, it's just a piece of metal welded to the frame. I've tried getting in from underneath but it seems like the bolt heads are on the upper surface, which is darn near impossible to access. The short version is, it's not impossible to access. It might be blind (can you get a wrench on the bolts above from below, without seeing them?), it might just suck, and you might have to take half the car apart, but it's possible.
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Jul 11, 2019 15:33
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I've got a stupid question. I have a honda fit, and the key for my car is an electronic fob but with an actual mechanical key still attached. I wanted to get a replacement key that is just the mechanical key with no electronics so I can take it with me in the water but I am not sure how or where to get such a key cut. Any ideas?
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Jul 11, 2019 22:50
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You could try local hardware stores, I know my local Ace cuts car keys including keys with transponders if your car has an immobilizer.
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Jul 12, 2019 01:38
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My cheapy bluetooth OBD II scanner came but I have no idea how to interpret what it's telling me. If I post a video later would anyone mind taking a look at it for me? I'll redescribe the problem in as much detail as I can so nobody has to trawl through my previous posts. --------- I'll just post this in case anyone needs the info in future so I can quote it later: It didn't work with Torque Lite, didn't work with Piston, but did work with an app called Car Scanner. The others would be fine with the bluetooth part but not the ECU. Torque Lite got itself stuck in a loop where it thought "Protocol 4 seems to work" Car Scanner went through loads of protocols, 42 of them or something, when I selected "Toyota OBDII" - including some that said Nissan for whatever reason that is. Anyway it then worked. It had a JDM Mode 21 or something that it warned me not to muck about with too, so I'm going to look up what that is as it's a JDM car.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:09
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Autoexec.bat posted:You could try local hardware stores, I know my local Ace cuts car keys including keys with transponders if your car has an immobilizer. If your car is from the early 90s. Everything else is paired and maybe a local locksmith or garage can do it but it's often only the dealership. If you are very lucky it could be something you can look up (often if you have two transponders that still work) and pair it yourself. The actual key cutting is the easy part that you can go to ace for.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:09
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Googling around makes it seem like you can get a dumb key that will open the doors. At least early models.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:30
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If it was me I’d just get a small waterproof container. I did SCUBA and snorkeling and never had a water intrusion issue.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:33
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That's not really true anymore, my local Ace can program most keys well into the 2010's minus a few luxury brands, https://www.acehardware.com/automotivekeys
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Jul 12, 2019 02:37
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Skyarb posted:I've got a stupid question. I have a honda fit, and the key for my car is an electronic fob but with an actual mechanical key still attached. I wanted to get a replacement key that is just the mechanical key with no electronics so I can take it with me in the water but I am not sure how or where to get such a key cut. Any ideas? Gut feeling is call the dealer. I have a GE8 Fit myself but I'm not sure about the immobilizer setup.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:39
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Autoexec.bat posted:That's not really true anymore, my local Ace can program most keys well into the 2010's minus a few luxury brands, https://www.acehardware.com/automotivekeys Yeah but the RFID still isn't waterproof, right? You'd have to leave it locked in the car?
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Jul 12, 2019 02:40
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It depends, if it is a battery fob yeah you still have the same problem. If it's a passive RFID key it doesn't really matter. Ultimately a waterproof case is a lot cheaper either way and is probably the way to go.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:43
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Autoexec.bat posted:It depends, if it is a battery fob yeah you still have the same problem. If it's a passive RFID key it doesn't really matter. Ultimately a waterproof case is a lot cheaper either way and is probably the way to go. Yeah this is the simple, easy way. Put the key in a slidelock baggie for extra paranoia alleviation.
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Jul 12, 2019 02:45
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Uthor posted:Googling around makes it seem like you can get a dumb key that will open the doors. At least early models. Well, yeah....to open the door. Starting is is a different issue. Autoexec.bat posted:That's not really true anymore, my local Ace can program most keys well into the 2010's minus a few luxury brands, https://www.acehardware.com/automotivekeys Yeah.....those aren't really complicated keys, and every "luxury brand" they can cut is either old or domestic. Look, I'm not saying a key/keyfob should cost $200+, but that's the reality on a lot of poo poo right now, and Ace can't do it. So it's very much specific to what you are driving.
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Jul 12, 2019 03:13
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Motronic posted:Well, yeah....to open the door. Not if you use it to lock your regular keys inside the car!
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Jul 12, 2019 03:33
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Uthor posted:Not if you use it to lock your regular keys inside the car! If that's even possible. I'm playing along here....but seriously.....on a bunch of transponder key vehicles this literally isn't possible unless you disconnect the battery. And on a bunch more not possible to lock all of the doors after you've done that. We're not talking about exotics here. I own a Toyota that is a 2013 where this is the case.
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Jul 12, 2019 03:36
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Guessing model-specific knowledge would be thin on the ground, but can anyone give me some good rules of thumb for finding how to remove my front bumper? It's a '93 Lite Ace which is a sort of semi cabover (you basically sit on top of the engine), so you can't pop the bonnet, it's just a piece of metal welded to the frame. I've tried getting in from underneath but it seems like the bolt heads are on the upper surface, which is darn near impossible to access. I've always found backing out of a driveway with a shrub planted next to it to be very effective.
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Jul 12, 2019 03:40
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| # ? Apr 16, 2024 13:44 |
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Skyarb posted:I've got a stupid question. I have a honda fit, and the key for my car is an electronic fob but with an actual mechanical key still attached. I wanted to get a replacement key that is just the mechanical key with no electronics so I can take it with me in the water but I am not sure how or where to get such a key cut. Any ideas? Locksmith. Tell them you just want a plain metal one without electronics. I'd imagine it's the typical key blank Honda has used forever. Should run $5 or so. Try to lock the car with the fob inside first, though (obviously with a spare fob out of range, or with the regular key, after verifying the key actually works). It may not let you.
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Jul 12, 2019 06:30
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