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Jaxyon posted:Hyundai Elantra 2004 What was the issue that made you get the A/C serviced initially? Usually as long as the A/C works, you don't mess with it at all. Your radiator/condenser fans might not be working. Check the fuses for them first, and make sure they're plugged in.
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Jul 14, 2019 22:25
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0toShifty posted:What was the issue that made you get the A/C serviced initially? Usually as long as the A/C works, you don't mess with it at all. Stopped being cold at all. Now it's cold initially and then stops 5 minutes in
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Jul 15, 2019 01:25
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Black88GTA posted:So, after being in my current house for the last ~12 years, I am being forced to move unexpectedly, which means that I have to get as much of my hoopty fleet running as I can. Not much can be done for the Subarus at this point, but I am trying to resurrect my old truck. It's a 2003 Escalade AWD, with the LQ9 6.0L V8. Has about 190k on it. It was running perfectly when I parked it, but has been sitting in my driveway for the last 4 years. The O2 sensors aren't used when it's cold. Pull one of the spark plugs on the driver's side after running it for a minute. Is it wet or dry? If it's wet, is it oil or gas? If it's oil, try new plugs (all of them). If it's gas, your coils aren't firing for some reason. If you've got gas on the plugs, try swapping a couple of coils side to side. If they're dry, you've got something going on with the injectors - either they're seized from sitting so long, or they're not getting power from the PCM. Either way, with it being an entire bank, I'd be pulling out the multimeter and seeing if power is getting to that bank of injectors or coils, and following the wiring to see if there's any rodent damage. Jaxyon posted:Hyundai Elantra 2004 Does it cool off once you're at highway speeds? If so, radiator fan. Maybe they bumped the plug for it... (also, it's refrigerant; coolant is for your engine).
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Jul 15, 2019 01:52
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STR posted:The O2 sensors aren't used when it's cold. I was reading up on this and saw posts elsewhere stating that replacing an upstream O2 sensor on the affected bank fixed this type of problem, but now that I think about it I believe that was on cars that were already up to temp, so good call on that. I will try examining plugs / swapping coils whenever I'm able to work on it next. I was going to investigate grounds as well, as soon as I can find exactly where the ground is for the driver's side injectors / coils. I've been looking around for rodent damage, but haven't found anything of the sort. This truck is a horrible rustbucket though, so it wouldn't surprise me to find a rotted ground wire connection somewhere, although I haven't seen any suspicious dangling wires or anything yet.
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Jul 15, 2019 04:44
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Black88GTA posted:I was reading up on this and saw posts elsewhere stating that replacing an upstream O2 sensor on the affected bank fixed this type of problem, but now that I think about it I believe that was on cars that were already up to temp, so good call on that. You can be assured that cars in open loop (cold) do not use the O2 sensors and unless they hit closed loop and fall on their face the upstream O2 sensor is not the issue. They definitely can be an issue and are later on with many things, but it's not a clod start thing. You can just unplug them to make sure the ECU isn't doing something stupid, as it should have a fuel map for "no O2 sensor/bad O2 ssensor" which is enough to make it run fine (where "fine" means "pig rich")
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Jul 15, 2019 04:56
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LS engines (at least on cars) have a giant plug and sub harness for each bank of coils. It's not hard to remove a whole coil pack and inspect it on the bench instead.
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Jul 15, 2019 05:11
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Black88GTA posted:I was going to investigate grounds as well, as soon as I can find exactly where the ground is for the driver's side injectors / coils. The main ground is the PCM coil driver (there's also a chassis ground); the coils should always have +12V whenever the ignition switch is on. This seems useful. But pull the plugs first immediately after starting and running it briefly; if the plugs are wet with gas, then your coils aren't firing. If they're dry, you've got something else going on (maybe injectors or wiring?). It's possible they share some grounds, but there's not much sense in chasing an ignition issue if it's a fuel issue, and vice versa. e: I'm gonna bug a friend and see if I can get some wiring diagrams for the coils and injectors... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Jul 15, 2019 |
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Jul 15, 2019 15:51
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Black88GTA posted:
I'm sort of betting on this actually. I have no idea where you live but I have a ton of chipmunks. If your car sat as long as you say wouldn't surprise me. Little effing bastards. Got a noid light kit?
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Jul 15, 2019 16:36
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C-Bangin' it 
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Maybe not the right thread for it but I couldn't find a Mitsubishi thread. Does anyone know how much a replacement transmission for a Lancer Ralliart would be in southern california/los angeles? I have found a pair of these cars for sale (one unmodded for 3k, and one nicely done with tasteful EVO mods for 5k) but both have failing transmissions. Or does anyone have a good shop recommendation I can call? Or a better thread to point me to?
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Jul 15, 2019 16:37
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Is Jeep a good brand? I am looking for something with good ground clearence, decent 4WD/AWD, and that can fit a bunch of gear and surfboards. A jeep seems like a reasonable bet but I am not sure if there is something better (I do not want a truck)
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Jul 15, 2019 20:16
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Skyarb posted:Is Jeep a good brand? I am looking for something with good ground clearence, decent 4WD/AWD, and that can fit a bunch of gear and surfboards. A jeep seems like a reasonable bet but I am not sure if there is something better (I do not want a truck) Chrysler products generally seem to have build "quality" referred to as "laughable". I don't know if that extends to Jeep products as well. (probably) A Rav 4 or CRV might fit your requirements.
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Jul 15, 2019 20:43
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Skyarb posted:Is Jeep a good brand? I am looking for something with good ground clearence, decent 4WD/AWD, and that can fit a bunch of gear and surfboards. A jeep seems like a reasonable bet but I am not sure if there is something better (I do not want a truck) What about a Subaru Outback? Every bit as good off-road, hopefully a bit more reliable than a jeep.
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Jul 15, 2019 20:47
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wesleywillis posted:Chrysler products generally seem to have build "quality" referred to as "laughable". I don't know if that extends to Jeep products as well. (probably) People like to say, oh, jeeps are different. gently caress no, they're still fca. No way no how.
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Jul 15, 2019 21:22
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I'd like to replace the 4x6 square sealed beam headlights on our '89 Volvo 740 but I don't know what the best route would be; HID? Halogen? LED? I'll be adding a relays while I'm in there, which should make a difference even if I stay close to stock, but I just don't know enough about options outside of that. I really don't want to end up being *that guy* with the lovely blinding lights.
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Jul 15, 2019 21:34
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Twerk from Home posted:What about a Subaru Outback? Every bit as good off-road, hopefully a bit more reliable than a jeep. Hmmm Subaru makes a bunch of SUV's, forester, crosstrek, outback, and ascent. Not sure what differentiates them but I suppose I could look into it. Subaru's have good build quality? Can't say I like how they look but I'm a form over function guy anyhow.
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Jul 15, 2019 21:55
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Wally Joyner posted:I'd like to replace the 4x6 square sealed beam headlights on our '89 Volvo 740 but I don't know what the best route would be; HID? Halogen? LED? Your safest best on the last one is going to be some form of H4-style replacement housing from a good manufacturer. I went with cheap Amazon "DOT approved" 7" round LEDs on my TJ and while I'm not getting high beams flashed at me, they're probably borderline.
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Jul 15, 2019 22:04
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Would it be possible for a bad ABS/wheel speed sensor to gently caress with a Subaru's transmission? (2010 Impreza, automatic) I took my car to the shop last month to get the transmission looked at after I had the AT Oil Temp light come on along with the check engine light. They thought it was possibly the Transmission Control Module, so they swapped mine for a used one and then my car seemed fine for a few weeks. What I forgot to tell them the first time I brought it to the shop - because I was so concerned about the transmission light - was that earlier in the day that the AT Oil Temp light originally came on, the ABS light had started flashing as I was going up a hill. It went away after I turned the car off and didn't come back. Now, that ABS light starts to flash seemingly every other time I go up a long, steady incline. I had it come on three times yesterday, and on that third time I also saw the AT Oil Temp light come back on for the first time since the TCM got swapped out. The shifting occasionally feels fucky in city driving/at lower speeds, but seems totally fine at highway speeds* so far. So could it really be the ABS sensor causing all the issues or am I dreaming? *e: nevermind, just happened as I was driving home on the highway Stevie Lee fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jul 16, 2019 |
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Jul 15, 2019 22:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:Your safest best on the last one is going to be some form of H4-style replacement housing from a good manufacturer. Exactly what I was looking to hear about--thanks for the heads up!
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Jul 15, 2019 22:37
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Wally Joyner posted:Exactly what I was looking to hear about--thanks for the heads up! FYI - Hella makes kits for it. I've got a set of their 7" round retrofits but haven't had the chance to install them yet. Those combined with some relays should be pretty nice. Edit: here we go http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/products/auxiliary-lamps/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/4-x6-rectangular-conversion-headlamps/
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Jul 16, 2019 00:47
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Stevie Lee posted:Would it be possible for a bad ABS/wheel speed sensor to gently caress with a Subaru's transmission? (2010 Impreza, automatic) I know the old Freelander 4x4 system would poo poo itself and pack in if you drove with different sized tyres for too long, iirc it didn't need to be that big of a difference, but I have no real idea if that could be related to your problem
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Jul 16, 2019 00:56
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Motronic posted:You can be assured that cars in open loop (cold) do not use the O2 sensors and unless they hit closed loop and fall on their face the upstream O2 sensor is not the issue. It actually does have a canned tune on it that I forgot about. One of these. So not totally stock GM, although I don't think this has anything to do with it. I'll ignore the O2s for now and concentrate on other areas. IOwnCalculus posted:LS engines (at least on cars) have a giant plug and sub harness for each bank of coils. It's not hard to remove a whole coil pack and inspect it on the bench instead. I didn't have enough time / daylight today to yank the plugs and check, but I was able to pull off the affected coil rail so I could bench test it inside. All harness pins are intact, and all tested positive for continuity in the right spots. No visible damage to this at least. I did find one wire under the hood with a bit of insulation missing, but the wire itself is still intact. I will have to research where this one goes. STR posted:The main ground is the PCM coil driver (there's also a chassis ground); the coils should always have +12V whenever the ignition switch is on. That page is great, thanks for the link. I'll have to drill through that the next time I'm really able to dig into it. Probably won't be until this weekend, but it's also supposed to be in the 90s, plus we have the remnants of Barry passing over us on Thursday which should make everything nice and humid, so I may end up saying gently caress it. I was reading that a single stuck injector can gently caress up the whole bank too, so there's also that to think about. I'll know more when I'm able to pull plugs. Colostomy Bag posted:I'm sort of betting on this actually. I have no idea where you live but I have a ton of chipmunks. If your car sat as long as you say wouldn't surprise me. Little effing bastards. Not many chipmunks, but squirrels everywhere. I haven't found any rodents (or signs of them) in this car yet, but a couple years ago I did find a small pile of acorns in the trunk of one of the Subarus. I don't have a noid light yet, but this is the perfect excuse to buy one. Ordering one tonight. Thanks everyone for the help so far. I'll be sure to post up the solution if I ever figure it out 
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Jul 16, 2019 02:11
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My car is in good condition and has been waxed before, but I've started to notice water marks on the finish. I'd like to keep on top of it so I'm wondering what to do - I assume cleaning and re-waxing? Is there a realistic guide for cleaning and waxing (presumably) a car I can follow? I've got hardstanding, a hose and a cordless drill. EDIT: there are a load of cash-only carwash places in car-parks/etc. around here and lots of expensive cars end up being washed in them, but basically the finish on this MG is really nice and I'd really rather not have it dulled down somehow.... Would be about £15 for their 'top link' service Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Jul 16, 2019 |
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Jul 16, 2019 07:37
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simplefish posted:I know the old Freelander 4x4 system would poo poo itself and pack in if you drove with different sized tyres for too long, iirc it didn't need to be that big of a difference, but I have no real idea if that could be related to your problem yes subaru's do not like differently worn tires. HAve you recently replaced only 1 or 2 tires and you have older worn tires somewhere else? This makes the AWD go wonky because wheel speeds are not in sync.
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Jul 16, 2019 12:26
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tater_salad posted:yes subaru's do not like differently worn tires. Have you recently replaced only 1 or 2 tires and you have older worn tires somewhere else? This makes the AWD go wonky because wheel speeds are not in sync. I actually just replaced all four tires because I had terrible luck with the General RT43s I put on less than two years ago. About four months after I got those, one of them was damaged in an accident after someone tried to change lanes/turn through my car. State Farm would only replace that single tire, and the shop claimed the others were still within tolerance of the new tire. I had two more go flat since then, so I decided to toss all of them and put some new yokohamas on it. Maybe that accident hosed me up more than they claimed...
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Jul 16, 2019 13:40
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hmm the accident may have messed stuff up with your AWD system / ABS system. if your ABS light is going on it's possible somethign is messed up with your wheel speed sensor, this may also be fing with your AWD system.
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Jul 16, 2019 13:46
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word, thanks. I'll definitely mention that when I bring it to the shop next week
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Jul 16, 2019 13:49
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Stevie Lee posted:word, thanks. I'll definitely mention that when I bring it to the shop next week Something like "I got into an accident as a driver dammaged my x (Driver/ Passenger front/back) side which resulted in a tire needing to be replaced. I've recently been having issues with my ABS light and Transmission fluid temperature lights coming on, so that may be related)" Others may have other ideas but the fact that your AWD system is having issues and your ABS is also having issues kind of points to an issue related to a disparity in wheel speed / bad wheel speed sensor.
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Jul 16, 2019 13:55
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Hey, Got a 2001 Honda CRV AWD. B20Z2 Engine with 248k miles. Manual transmission. About a month ago I notice the engine struggling/stalling when idling and under load (turning, AC running, ETC). No codes or CEL. I gave the car a tune up (new plugs, leads, rotor/cap, ignition coil) and checked my valve clearances. All good, however the improvement in performance was negligible. I started to suspect the Idle Air Control valve. I replaced the valve and my idle got extremely worse. It no longer stalled, but it started bouncing. Anytime I had the car in neutral of the clutch engaged, the engine will repeatedly rev from around 1000rpm up to 2000rpm, back and forth with the increase taking roughly a second. I suspected I had purchased a faulty air control and returned it and bought a slightly more expensive one. The issue continued. No codes or CEL were being thrown at this point. Everything I read online pointed towards air in the cooling system. I bought a purging funnel and purged the cooling system with the front of the car elevated to where the radiator cap was the highest point in the system. I rand the car at around 2000rpm and had the heat selected on like everyone said to while doing this. I did this twice, for about 20 minutes each time. I had a few air bubbles come up, but not much. The idle continue to surge, but now something new is happening. When I start the car, it will idle high (around 1800 rpm) and steady for about a minute. As the car warms up, the idle will start to bounce between 1000-2000rpm. As I drive the car more, it will eventually reach a point where the idle will fall HARD to about 1200rpm. It will bounce between about 1200-1300rpm EXTREMELY quickly. It's like a wavering bounce. Anytime I engage the clutch, or let off the gas, the revs will fall HARD and quickly to this point. When in gear and running, the engine runs normally, but like I said, will fall hard if I let off the gas or engage the clutch. The CEL light has now come on and is throwing a P0505 code Idle Air Control System. I'm completely out of ideas. I've checked the wires and continuity of the IAC, in addition to every other thing I could think of idle-wise. I would appreciate any help from you guys. Thanks!
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Jul 16, 2019 14:21
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2008 Chevrolet express 2500 cargo van. Is there any way to upgrade the blower motor and blower wheel so that my my ac and heat feel like more than an asthmatic toddler wheezing on me? I can replace the whole motor and wheel for $25-75 from rock auto but I feel like it’s always been weak, so what I really want to do is upgrade it. Any ideas?
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Jul 16, 2019 14:28
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Krasniy Prospekt posted:Hey, Probably not the case here, but I had something similar once that turned out to be a weird crack in the air intake that opened up when the car was idling somehow. I'd check for that since it's easy to look for. Unlikely to be the culprit though.
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Jul 16, 2019 14:31
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Hello, friends! I have a 2005 Toyota Sienna van. I purchased it last fall after a dipshit slammed into the back of my truck while I was sitting in traffic. I discovered that at some point over the winter/spring that the A/C stopped working. It will blow cold when the engine is cold, but will start blowing progressively hotter air. My initial research led to a guy having the same symptoms that claimed that replacing his failing thermostat fixed it. Well, it did not fix the problem. Got the new one in, and drive it around the block. Nope, cuts out. Tried it again, it lasted a bit longer. Then one day, drat thing worked , more or less, fine all day. Next day, wouldn't even blow cold. Now, that IS an issue,but while messing with it, I hosed something else up worse: While checking the relays (as I was checking to see if it was the A/C Clutch relay) I sorta, kinda, shorted out a relay and now all the fans are dead. No radiator fans, no internal fans. The whole A/C console area is dead. I tried swapping relays, nada. Went and bought a new fan relay. Nada. Could not find any blown fuses. Both the box in the engine bay, and the 2 behind the glove box. The SRA/Airbag light and the Battery (Alternator) Light is lit up on the dash now,though I've been driving the van, so seems to still be charging the battery. Headlights/interior lights still work. Hazards, Turn Signals, radio all work. The only code that is being produced is that my Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 is low (which I've known about, just haven't gotten to it) Any speculation is appreciated, as I am at a loss.
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Jul 16, 2019 14:38
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Krasniy Prospekt posted:Hey, You're gonna have to check everything related to air and air metering. You'll want to check the MAP sensor for one (not MAF; B's don't have one), and every gasket past the throttle body, every vacuum line, booster, the works (pain in the rear end, I know). You might pop the resonator off the top of the intake and check out that gasket, it might be bone dry and leaking air bigtime. Best way to do all the leak checking would be a smoke machine in the intake/throttle body. Also, even with no code, you could have a marginal EGR valve, so check that. Did you notice any pending codes when you saw the P0505? Sorry man, these sorts of issues are a bitch if it isn't the IACV.
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Jul 16, 2019 15:10
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Krasniy Prospekt posted:Hey, You have a large vacuum leak somewhere - Hondas do that weird 1k-2k bounce when the engine speed goes up higher than what the ECU wants (the ECU is cutting fuel to drop it back down). That model year should only have a few vacuum lines - check your brake booster vacuum line. Also, clean your throttle body, and if your bleed screw isn't covered on it, try turning it way in (it'll be facing you when you look at the throttle body from where the intake hose connects, but some models have them covered - if it's uncovered, it's a large flat head screw). Beach Bum nailed the rest, but the first thing to check is the brake booster and vacuum line. Johnny Aztec posted:The SRA/Airbag light and the Battery (Alternator) Light is lit up on the dash now,though I've been driving the van, so seems to still be charging the battery. You popped one of the big rear end fuses in the underhood fuse panel (I don't mean the little ones you can pull with a fuse puller or pliers).
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Jul 16, 2019 15:52
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Girlfriend has a 2008 Hyundai Accent GS. The other day she was driving home from work and the car just died on her at an intersection and she couldn't get it running again. Had it towed to our regular shop, and they when they got around to it, the car started up right away with no issues. The pulled the last codes and got P0337 and P0339: Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low and Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent. They said it was weird because those aren't Hyundai codes. They said there wasn't much they could really do because it never happened to them while they drove it around and they couldn't replicate it. A few days later, we were driving somewhere together, and the car started sputtering. She said it was the same kind of thing that happened the first time. You could feel the car kind of jerk when it did it and the CEL would come on for a second before shutting back off. We decided to head back home so we weren't stranded, and while driving the CEL came on and stayed on. I used my reader and got the same codes. I tried replacing the crankshaft position sensor. This was on Sunday, and drove it around for a while. The issue never came back, and since then my girlfriend hasn't reported any recurrence of the problem. HOWEVER, when I first tried starting the car after changing the crankshaft position sensor, it took the car a while to start. I shut it off and turned it back on, and the same thing happened. That's when I drove it around for about 20 minutes to see if I could replicate the original problem. When I got back to the apartment, I turned it off, and tried turning it back on, and it started immediately. But, my girlfriend is telling me that every time she has started it with the engine cold, it takes a while before the engine turns over. Is there anything I could have done that would be causing this? This has never been an issue before.
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Jul 17, 2019 01:16
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Mammal Sauce posted:2011 Toyota Highlander - not that it matters... Roaches? I wouldn't take any chances. A few years back, an insured's house I inspected turned out to be very densely infested with fleas (she'd lock her dog in her damp & dark basement for at least 10-hours/day). I wound up with thousands of them on me & throughout my car. I bombed the car with a Raid Fumigator. Never saw another (I also took an alcohol shower in my driveway before going in the house, and threw all of my clothes in the car with my briefcae & equipment, including my company laptop, before I bombed it) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Raid-Fumigating-Foggers-3-Pack-61528/100034648 Uses dry smoke. Everything was fine. Leaves you car smelling springtime fresh!
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Jul 17, 2019 02:06
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BAE OF PIGS posted:Girlfriend has a 2008 Hyundai Accent GS. The other day she was driving home from work and the car just died on her at an intersection and she couldn't get it running again. Had it towed to our regular shop, and they when they got around to it, the car started up right away with no issues. The pulled the last codes and got P0337 and P0339: Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low and Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent. They said it was weird because those aren't Hyundai codes. They said there wasn't much they could really do because it never happened to them while they drove it around and they couldn't replicate it. That has more than one problem. The crank position sensor was a good move. The not starting when cold I'm going for a fuel pump. (bad drainback valve) Does anyone know if cycling the key will make the fuel pump run on this so I don't have to get into fuel pressure tests?
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Jul 17, 2019 04:03
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Wondering if it is like some GM models and the CKS needs to be calibrated.
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Jul 17, 2019 10:59
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My wife's 2003 toyota avalon was parked on the street last night, near where a fire hydrant was opened and water got in to her car. Only the passenger side got wet, and all the electronics on the doors still work. Her radio still turns on. However, there is no sound. Even if the speakers on the passenger side door got waterlogged, shouldn't the other ones still play?
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Jul 17, 2019 12:20
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Did any water get in the car? The amplifier for the stereo is under the passenger seat, if it has the premium system (JBL). Most 2nd gen Avalons I've seen do have the premium stereo (it'll say JBL on the dash speakers). If water did get into the car, even a little bit (feel the carpet around the passenger doors, if it's even a little damp then there's a good bit of water under the carpet), there's a good chance the amp got fried. Let it dry out a day or two, but you'll probably need to replace the amp. Search eBay for 86280-AC043, that's the Toyota part number for it. It's easy to replace (... once you remove the seat anyway, and you'll have to disconnect the battery before doing that - a lot are optioned with side impact air bags that are housed in the seats). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:42 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 13:39
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Oh no, a LOT of water got in, and definitely in that area. I'll let it fully dry out over the weekend and then get the part, thank you (It is JBL).
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Jul 17, 2019 14:42
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