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Beach Bum posted:You're gonna have to check everything related to air and air metering. You'll want to check the MAP sensor for one (not MAF; B's don't have one), and every gasket past the throttle body, every vacuum line, booster, the works (pain in the rear end, I know). You might pop the resonator off the top of the intake and check out that gasket, it might be bone dry and leaking air bigtime. Best way to do all the leak checking would be a smoke machine in the intake/throttle body. EGR valve is new, forgot to mention that. I'll go over all the lines and look for leaks. No pending codes. I know I've pulled the resonator off SEVERAL times when messing with all this stuff so that gasket is a good place to start. Thanks for your help everyone. I'll let you know what I find.
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Jul 17, 2019 16:25
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I've never owned a car with bluetooth; is there a difference between using the car UI (apple play, android auto?) vs just using the car speakers as a connection option for the device?
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Jul 17, 2019 16:56
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Jack B Nimble posted:I've never owned a car with bluetooth; is there a difference between using the car UI (apple play, android auto?) vs just using the car speakers as a connection option for the device? Yes. Using the Car UI means you don't have to hold or look at your phone, you can do most things on the car screen. It also means you have to be physically connected with a USB cable which is annoying. You might only be thinking of music with carplay or AA, but you can connect navigation apps and even in music and podcast apps you'll get specific buttons to control them. It's nice.
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Jul 17, 2019 17:18
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Android Auto basically puts your phone screen on the car's screen, except a very limited and (mostly) car-friendly interface. The big downside of it is in most cars/phones you need to have it hooked up by USB cable. Mine supports Wireless Android Auto and I have a Pixel 2 phone that supports it and that's fantastic, but there's not a lot of devices that support that. Also it's incredibly obnoxious and you can't have a passenger type information in while the car is moving. Waze and Audible or Spotify are what I use most and it's really nice. Just a bit buggy sometimes.
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Jul 17, 2019 17:20
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There's also a pretty big grey area around audio quality - connected via cable should have much higher audio quality, but:
shortspecialbus posted:Also it's incredibly obnoxious and you can't have a passenger type information in while the car is moving. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 17:22
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Krakkles posted:There's also a pretty big grey area around audio quality - connected via cable should have much higher audio quality, but: Wireless Android Auto (and presumably Car Play as well, if wireless exists for that) work via WiFi and so they should get the same benefit in audio quality. That said, in most cars you're not going to notice the difference because of road noise, as you mentioned. Edit: Krakkles posted:
No, it's a safety feature of Android Auto. I have an aftermarket unit with Android Auto and it's android auto itself doing it. You can't do the "parking brake" type trick that you do for most things since it's the phone basing it off of the phone's internal GPS. No part will help with that. Apple Car Play may not have the same sort of issue, I don't know. Voice only gets you so far - if you tell it to navigate to something where it comes up with a couple results, it won't let anyone press any of them until you stop moving. ssb fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 17:25
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Thanks, I was looking at a car that doesn't support my OS, sounds like a serious strike against.
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Jul 17, 2019 17:26
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shortspecialbus posted:Wireless Android Auto (and presumably Car Play as well, if wireless exists for that) work via WiFi and so they should get the same benefit in audio quality. shortspecialbus posted:No, it's a safety feature of Android Auto. I have an aftermarket unit with Android Auto and it's android auto itself doing it. You can't do the "parking brake" type trick that you do for most things since it's the phone basing it off of the phone's internal GPS. No part will help with that. Apple Car Play may not have the same sort of issue, I don't know. Voice only gets you so far - if you tell it to navigate to something where it comes up with a couple results, it won't let anyone press any of them until you stop moving.  Edit for your edit: CarPlay lets you select from a short list of onscreen options - usually about the size of what fits on the screen, so top 4-5, maybe? So, you use voice to say "Get directions to RadioShack", then you can click on the correct option. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 17:28
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Krakkles posted:Edit for your edit: CarPlay lets you select from a short list of onscreen options - usually about the size of what fits on the screen, so top 4-5, maybe? So, you use voice to say "Get directions to RadioShack", then you can click on the correct option. Android Auto sometimes does that, but it seems to sometimes just block them off so you can't see or press them. Or at least it used to, it hasn't come up for me lately. I wish they'd just get rid of it, it's a dumb safety feature because passengers exist in this timeline.
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Jul 17, 2019 17:32
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shortspecialbus posted:Android Auto sometimes does that, but it seems to sometimes just block them off so you can't see or press them. Or at least it used to, it hasn't come up for me lately. To be clear, I agree that it's annoying, and I wish we lived in a world where people would just choose not to do dumb poo poo, but until we do, I'm willing to pull over to punch in an address to remove some risk from this particular aspect of driving. I said some... Edit just to be clear: I 100% recognize that feature does not fix this issue. I'm saying I support features like that because phones should have features to reduce/remove these issues. If they can guarantee that a passenger is entering information and not the driver, I support adding that, but until that point, gently caress it, it's not hard to pull over, and I'll take that over more risk. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 17:41
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StormDrain posted:Yes. Using the Car UI means you don't have to hold or look at your phone, you can do most things on the car screen. It also means you have to be physically connected with a USB cable which is annoying. There's wireless Android Auto and Apple Carplay now, though they do require very recent phones and head units. Krakkles posted:There's also a pretty big grey area around audio quality - connected via cable should have much higher audio quality Head units (and phones) that support aptX or Apple's AAC should sound pretty decent via Bluetooth, pretty close to using a cable. This isn't a thing yet on factory head units, but a lot of aftermarket ones are coming out. Going from a head unit that only supported SBC to aptX-HD made a noticeable difference in Bluetooth sound quality for me (also got rid of skipping that I'd been having issues with), but aptX is a lossless codec, while SBC is pretty highly compressed. Again, while you're moving, you're probably not going to notice the difference, but if you're stuck in traffic, or parked, it's noticeable.
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Jul 18, 2019 03:16
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Another of my car's many (oh so many) "quirks" is that sometimes when resuming play, the bluetooth on the stereo (non factory) likes to say it's playing (and according to the phone, it is) but at 0 volume until you reconnect it. I've tried to play around with cause/effect but so far my conclusion is "without rhyme or reason"
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Jul 18, 2019 04:27
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STR posted:aptX is a lossless codec AptX is a massive improvement over SBC, but still lossy.
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Jul 18, 2019 06:33
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STR posted:Head units (and phones) that support aptX or Apple's AAC should sound pretty decent via Bluetooth, pretty close to using a cable. This isn't a thing yet on factory head units, but a lot of aftermarket ones are coming out. Does aptX work in two-way mode also, or just one way? Audio quality on every bluetooth device I own tanks right now when you have to also use the mic.
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Jul 18, 2019 13:49
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simplefish posted:Another of my car's many (oh so many) "quirks" is that sometimes when resuming play, the bluetooth on the stereo (non factory) likes to say it's playing (and according to the phone, it is) but at 0 volume until you reconnect it. I've noticed this happens sometimes if my phone's volume is all the way down
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Jul 18, 2019 14:06
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Twerk from Home posted:Does aptX work in two-way mode also, or just one way? Audio quality on every bluetooth device I own tanks right now when you have to also use the mic. Only one implementation of aptX does- aptX Low Latency. LDAC is probably the best BT protocol when it comes to sound quality, and Android 8+ supports it at the OS level, but the only headphones that support it are pretty much Sony (makes sense, since Sony owns the trademark). Speaking of... and this is way outside of the AI realm, but... I know Qualcomm licenses aptX (it's a very low licensing fee - $5k upfront, $1 per device). I just bought some headphones that touted aptX low latency on both Amazon and the manufacturer's website. They wound up being SBC only (and super laggy at that) - they sounded "okay", but not as good as I expected for the price. So, uh, gently caress Mpow I guess; that poo poo got boxed right back up and sent back to Amazon. I was looking for something affordable that I could wear at work (I can't stand earbuds, I prefer over-ear), but I was trying to get aptX low latency.  Explains why the Qualcomm logo wasn't on the box or spec sheet.
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Jul 18, 2019 15:11
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STR posted:Speaking of... and this is way outside of the AI realm, but... I know Qualcomm licenses aptX (it's a very low licensing fee - $5k upfront, $1 per device). I just bought some headphones that touted aptX low latency on both Amazon and the manufacturer's website. They wound up being SBC only (and super laggy at that) - they sounded "okay", but not as good as I expected for the price. So, uh, gently caress Mpow I guess; that poo poo got boxed right back up and sent back to Amazon. I was looking for something affordable that I could wear at work (I can't stand earbuds, I prefer over-ear), but I was trying to get aptX low latency. try the Mixcder ones if you're looking for a cheap pair of headphones that actually support aptX low latency. I have the MS301s and they're decent for the price
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Jul 18, 2019 16:56
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It looks like both those and the HD601s (also listed as aptX LL on their website) are discontinued.  I've found one set of over-ears on Amazon in what I'd consider the "very affordable" range that both claim to be aptX and have the logo, but crap reviews and one of millions of companies I've never heard of (they are, however, listed on Qualcomm's aptX site). Earbuds in the same price range (<$50) claiming aptX are much more common, but I can't stand wearing them for more than 15 minutes or so. I'll probably just settle for plain old SBC headphones, these will be getting kinda beat up at work. Can't do corded since (a) no headphone jack, so USB-C dongle only, and (b) I'm moving too much; the cord would get caught and ripped in a hurry. I have my Sennheisers at home for when I want good corded headphones.
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Jul 18, 2019 19:40
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What is the current AI hivemind opinion of lowering springs vs coilovers on a torsion beam car?
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Jul 18, 2019 23:20
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So let's say you have the inner CV connection, where it goes into the axle cup. In here is your rotating components, which are held onto the shaft with a snap ring. Lets say that snap ring gets a little stretched during removal and is a bit loose on reinstall, and spins in the groove rather than being lock-tight. Is my axle shaft likely to rip itself out because the snap ring is slightly expanded, or do I need to open a freshly greased CV boot and put a new snap ring on that thing before I die? Additionally, what's the concensus for using heavyduty zip-ties to hold a CV boot on? 
Rime fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jul 19, 2019 |
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Jul 19, 2019 02:58
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I mean I would just replace it as it just doesn't seem worth saving the couple dollars on, although you may be able to just take it back off and squeeze it a bit to tighten it if need be. As for zip ties on boots, I've bought boot kits that have come with big zip ties. So I say zip tie away.
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Jul 19, 2019 04:16
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Van is throwing a code that basically boils down to "something is hosed with the injector circuit, gl bro". Is it possible for me to figure out which cylinder(s), if any, aren't injecting?
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Jul 19, 2019 06:02
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Rime posted:So let's say you have the inner CV connection, where it goes into the axle cup. In here is your rotating components, which are held onto the shaft with a snap ring. Lets say that snap ring gets a little stretched during removal and is a bit loose on reinstall, and spins in the groove rather than being lock-tight. I've been running the OEM axle on my Fit with a knackered left inner joint clip for about 60k miles out of the total of 188k on the axle. There's a dozen auto autocrosses sprinkled in there as well. There is a big double-sided zip tie holding the boot. I have to be real careful not to separate the joint if I pop the control arm ball joints for any reason, but otherwise it seems to be fine. Now, that's on a Honda, who generally puts terrific drivetrain parts on their cars, so your situation may be different depending on manufacturer. This is also a pretty low-deflection application, due to 600lb springs and a fat swaybar up front. Javid posted:Van is throwing a code that basically boils down to "something is hosed with the injector circuit, gl bro". Is it possible for me to figure out which cylinder(s), if any, aren't injecting? Noid light Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Jul 19, 2019 |
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Jul 19, 2019 07:09
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poo poo, $40 to get this bullshit over with is a hell of a deal. Thanks!
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Jul 19, 2019 07:12
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Stay noided friends.
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Jul 19, 2019 07:13
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Beach Bum posted:I've been running the OEM axle on my Fit with a knackered left inner joint clip for about 60k miles out of the total of 188k on the axle. There's a dozen auto autocrosses sprinkled in there as well. There is a big double-sided zip tie holding the boot. I have to be real careful not to separate the joint if I pop the control arm ball joints for any reason, but otherwise it seems to be fine. So probably replace the turbo-blown struts on this Subaru asap and probably don't lift it ridiculously while doing so, gotcha.
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Jul 19, 2019 14:52
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So I received this slightly cryptic letter from Honda this week regarding my 2018 Civic. Would you guys interpret this as “your powertrain warranty is extended to 6 years/unlimited miles”, or “your warranty is extended for damage caused by this specific issue”? I drive A LOT (like 50k miles a year), so effectively having the warranty on the engine and CVT extended to 300k miles would be nuts. 
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Jul 19, 2019 17:22
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Rock My Socks! posted:So I received this slightly cryptic letter from Honda this week regarding my 2018 Civic. That reads to me like you just got a 6 year unlimited mile powertrain warranty. Drive the gently caress out of it, see if you can get a new engine for free from them. My mother-in-law got a free engine replacement from Honda at 140k miles a few years ago: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/03/free-engine-replacement-for-2006-2009-honda-civics/index.htm
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Jul 19, 2019 17:28
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Rock My Socks! posted:So I received this slightly cryptic letter from Honda this week regarding my 2018 Civic. Not a lawyer but I definitely get the opposite feel as Twerk from Home, to me that says the warranty is extended only for damage relevant to the specific problem. Particularly this part: quote:This warranty extension applies to any engine components, such as camshafts, rocker arm assemblies, or spark plugs, requiring repair due to damage resulting from those concerns identified in the first paragraph.
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Jul 19, 2019 17:41
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wolrah posted:Not a lawyer but I definitely get the opposite feel as Twerk from Home, to me that says the warranty is extended only for damage relevant to the specific problem. Particularly this part:
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Jul 19, 2019 18:14
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I'm in California and paid my registration before I performed the smog check (was doing it last minute and didn't have time for the smog check). When you do that, the DMV says you won't be able to complete the process online, and you should expect to receive more instructions in the mail. It's now been a month since I paid the registration, and I haven't received anything in the mail. I got the car smog checked two weeks ago, and from searching online it sounds like the DMV information when you check out may be outdated and I should just receive tags in the mail, but I don't have tags yet either. They're supposed to send tags within 5 business days if you renew in the usual manner online, so I'd expect them to have arrived by now if they were going to come out automatically. Anyone know for sure? I'm super busy at work until the end of next week, but maybe it's worth swinging by AAA and seeing if they can just give me the updated registration and sticker.
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Jul 19, 2019 19:29
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I know little to nothing about cars. Had a check engine light come on and went in for a diagnostic at a local mechanic, but I think they may be trying to rip me off. 2001 Honda Civic LX (Auto) Check Engine Code: P1457 Told by both the mechanic and the guy running the code at Autozone that my exhaust manifold is definitely cracked. Here is what my mechanic said I need: - Exhaust Manifold with Gasket ($945.36 Part + $164.85 Labor = $1,110.21 Total) - Canister Purge Valve ($109.43 Part + $54.95 Labor = $164.38 Total) - Canister Vent Valve ($109.43 Part + $109.90 Labor = $219.33 Total) - PCV Valve ($28.73 Part + $54.95 Labor = $83.68 Total) - Injector Seal ($18.17 Part + $54.95 Labor = $73.12 Total) - Gas Cap ($15.16 Part = $15.16 Total) Subtotal = $1,665.88 I think the mechanic is trying to screw me over, but have no way of actually knowing. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the fix, or if I should just get a new(er) used car.
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Jul 19, 2019 20:05
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It's worth A fix, but not THAT fix. Definitely go to a different mechanic. The fact that they're recommending a wide variety of barely related parts (I.e., they're only really related by the fact that they can cause CEL/codes) is a huge clue. If you actually need an exhaust manifold, buying an aftermarket header or a junkyard manifold would be massively cheaper. Edit: Not sure this is exactly what you're running into, but P1457 is just an EVAP system leak, and the parts they've listed out are [all of the parts that could be the cause] + a couple others (the manifold, for one, shouldn't be able to cause this). https://www.youcanic.com/u/carcarepros/honda-p1457-fault-code-problem-cause-solution Edit 2: I should say, they may have said that your manifold is cracked for an unrelated reason. While I can't see it causing that code, they may simply have recommended it because it's abundantly obvious (your car would make a distinctly different noise). Still, $1000+ for an exhaust manifold on a ~20 year old car is insane. If your state doesn't have restrictions on it, I'd put on a cheap header and call it good for ... *checks amazon* about $80 in parts. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jul 19, 2019 |
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Jul 19, 2019 20:12
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STR posted:You popped one of the big rear end fuses in the underhood fuse panel (I don't mean the little ones you can pull with a fuse puller or pliers). Good news, it wasn't that at all. Only reason the Alternator light was on, was because I had stole a 7.5A fuse that was part of the charging system. Other good news! I found a blown 10A Heater fuse in the fuse panel under the steering wheel, and fans are a-blowing again! Bad news is the A/C still isn't working. I checked all the other fuses while I was down there. I switched the AC Clutch relay out with the horn relay. Nothing. Now for the "fun" part of figuring out what part is the issue. Could it be something simple as the Pressure Switch being unable to handle the pressure? Or will it be the clutch itself? Only time will tell!
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Jul 19, 2019 20:15
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Krakkles posted:It's worth A fix, but not THAT fix. Hey thanks for the advice. The shop told me the exhaust manifold is unrelated to the EVAP system, but definitely obvious. Should I just bite the bullet and go to another mechanic for a different opinion? I am not even remotely confident in my ability to fix this issue. Would it make sense to just buy all the required parts and have someone else install them?
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Jul 19, 2019 20:24
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ADolan posted:Hey thanks for the advice. The shop told me the exhaust manifold is unrelated to the EVAP system, but definitely obvious. Should I just bite the bullet and go to another mechanic for a different opinion? I am not even remotely confident in my ability to fix this issue. Exhaust manifold aside, they're shotgunning parts at it without diagnosing. Only one of them is (likely) causing your EVAP code, they can't be bothered to diagnose which. Go somewhere else.
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Jul 19, 2019 20:49
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ADolan posted:Hey thanks for the advice. The shop told me the exhaust manifold is unrelated to the EVAP system, but definitely obvious. Should I just bite the bullet and go to another mechanic for a different opinion? I am not even remotely confident in my ability to fix this issue. opengl128 posted:Exhaust manifold aside, they're shotgunning parts at it without diagnosing. Only one of them is (likely) causing your EVAP code, they can't be bothered to diagnose which. Go somewhere else.
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Jul 19, 2019 21:10
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Mr. Wiggles posted:What is the current AI hivemind opinion of lowering springs vs coilovers on a torsion beam car? Bump
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Jul 19, 2019 22:05
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ADolan posted:I know little to nothing about cars. Had a check engine light come on and went in for a diagnostic at a local mechanic, but I think they may be trying to rip me off. They also want to charge you what appears to be an hour's labour to change the PCV valve which should take all of two minutes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1cdHrh3NLY
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Jul 19, 2019 22:18
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I was actually amazed there isn't a Dorman part for the exhaust manifold. Must be a rare failure?
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Jul 19, 2019 22:50
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C-Bangin' it 