|
Ah, didn't notice that. SX8200 Pro it is, then!
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2019 21:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 20:33 |
|
|
priznat posted:Cripes! I was going by Samsung 970evo prices which is pretty much what I get, force of habit more than any big reason though. For the past couple years Samsung has been charging a big tax on their drives from their name & reputation. It's not like they're bad or anything. Just 10-20% more expensive than other SSDs that are 100% as good. (OTOH the 660p is a special case, it's the cheapest due to being Quad-bit nand. Still a very good performer if you read the reviews and know how it works, but it's not a drop-in replacement for a 970evo.) vvv edit: as long as you're staying within the SLC cache -- which on the 2tb model is 20-200 GB or more -- it's competitive with other NVMe drives, so very fast. It's very optimized for consumer workloads; few people are writing more than 50 GB to their drive at once. (Or when they do it's to install a new game from steam, at which point it's still faster than your internet bandwidth.) I don't hesitate to recommend the 660p to normal desktop & games people, but always the 2TB model. It's a really good option as a secondary drive. Klyith fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Sep 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2019 21:28
|
|
|
Yeah 660p is quite a bit down on data write amount with that NAND iirc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2019 21:29
|
|
|
What’s the best cheap SSD to use for an external? My wife needs something she can toss in her purse so I’d rather an SSD either pre made or in an enclosure. I think 500GB+ would be plenty for her use case.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2019 18:30
|
|
|
KKKLIP ART posted:What’s the best cheap SSD to use for an external? My wife needs something she can toss in her purse so I’d rather an SSD either pre made or in an enclosure. I think 500GB+ would be plenty for her use case. https://www.newegg.com/adata-ultimate-su800-512gb/p/N82E16820215017 can't go wrong with the adata ultimate series.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2019 18:45
|
|
|
For space reasons a M.2 USB enclosure would be a clear choice. Then just choose some cheap M.2 SATA SSD. Or go even smaller with something like KingDian P10, although the source seems a bit sketchy. Transcend M.2 SSD Enclosure Kit Model TS-CM80S USB 30 External
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2019 19:21
|
|
|
KKKLIP ART posted:What’s the best cheap SSD to use for an external? My wife needs something she can toss in her purse so I’d rather an SSD either pre made or in an enclosure. I think 500GB+ would be plenty for her use case. This Sandisk thing is good. At $80 it's about the same price as a bare drive + enclosure, but is even smaller than a generic enclosure (because it isn't using an 80mm M.2 drive) and water-resistant. On the inside it's a tiny m.2 drive and USB controller, so you're not just buying a huge USB flash key... it's the same performance -- ie maxing out USB3 -- as a good enclosure plus separate drive.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2019 20:29
|
|
|
Windows bsoded last night with a memory management code, then couldn’t start with an operating system not found one. I don’t know too much about this stuff but with an install USB key I did check with diskpart and it shows no partitions, all available unallocated on my former Windows drive. Do I have any hope of recovering stuff from this or am I hosed? Edit: SATA 850 Evo if that makes any difference.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 12:40
|
|
|
Reseat/replace your connection cables, if that doesn't work your data is probably completely hosed. SSDs aren't really recoverable if they do fail.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 13:13
|
|
|
Also potentially useful is putting the drive in another PC / in an external USB caddy if you have one. Also you can try the power cable trick, unplug the sata data cable and leave just the power cable plugged in. Turn on the PC and leave it alone for an hour. Then turn it off and plug sata back in and see if anything improves. (This is how people revived flawed Corsair drives, but evidentially works on many brands of SSD because it makes them do a self-repair program.) If it still shows up in the BIOS & is accessible by diskpart that's at least a good sign that the drive's not dead. Aphrodite posted:Do I have any hope of recovering stuff from this or am I hosed? This may not be the moment you want to hear this but you should check out the backup thread.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 15:04
|
|
|
Oh no I'm okay on anything important, thanks. I just meant it's going to be a very tedious few days now. I didn't have full backups, just of the stuff that mattered, so I need to put everything back together manually. Whole lot of downloading and reinstalling coming.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 15:20
|
|
|
Yeah that SSD died. It sucks because Samsungs really shouldn't be doing this.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 15:22
|
|
|
Be sure to get a warranty replacement.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 15:47
|
|
|
I was wrong and it's actually an 840 Evo, so it looks like it's expired.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 15:52
|
|
|
Been 5 years?
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 16:20
|
|
|
oohhboy posted:Been 5 years? 840 Evos were only 3 years :/ redeyes posted:It sucks because Samsungs really shouldn't be doing this. If samsung or anyone else could make 100% failure-proof devices I'd want them to make more important things than SSDs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 16:25
|
|
|
redeyes posted:Yeah that SSD died. It sucks because Samsungs really shouldn't be doing this. Every SSD is going to die eventually. And the 840 EVO was a crap drive anyways. I remember it being slow as molasses and Samsung taking forever to release the mitigation for the mSATA version.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2019 21:50
|
|
|
lol 840 evo was the crap tlc drive without 3d nand and had the problem of data fading
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 07:27
|
|
|
If I understand correctly that was the entire cause of the problem: the early 2D TLC NAND flash wasn't mature enough and simply suffered from charge decay.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 10:08
|
|
|
Almost. The controller's rebiasing algorithm was not accommodating for alteration of cells near writes correctly, requiring frequent maintenance (migration) operations.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 13:09
|
|
|
Under the hood, they were hitting net write amp factors of, what, three or four? Can't recall.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 13:11
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:If I understand correctly that was the entire cause of the problem: the early 2D TLC NAND flash wasn't mature enough and simply suffered from charge decay. It was 2D nand, but it wasn't early -- 840 evo was the last mainstream samsung drive with 2D. It was their final process shrink on planar and they were getting close to the edge of how small a charge trap can be. But as Potato Salad says, it was totally a software problem. The 840 non-Evo used the same 2d nand as the Evo, and the original WD Blue used even smaller 15nm planar while also doing the pseudo-SLC hybrid cache like the Evo. Neither of those had similar issues. ... But I'm doubtful that the 840 Evo's re-write software is related to what killed Aphrodite's drive. A drive that dies from wear is gonna be throwing write & read errors before it totally dies. Also I don't even know whether the drive is actually dead -- they didn't say whether the drive still works after it got blanked, or it now can't be written to for a new partition table & data. If it's the first, I'd be tempted to put it down to something outside the drive (related to the crash at the same time) and keep using it, as least as a secondary drive for games and junk.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 18:05
|
|
|
The drive seems to be fine except that it forgot it was partitioned. I tried some file recovery software because I had some stuff that I would be okay with losing, but if I could get them back why not? That worked just fine. It seems to have recovered everything with no issues. I haven't tried reallocating it and putting it back though, because I took this as an opportunity to upgrade this ~7 year old machine and I'm waiting on new parts to arrive.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2019 18:34
|
|
|
Recommendations for a cheap 2TB NVME drive? I just need it for storage. edit: Reading above, it looks like the Intel 660p would be a good pick. I'm using an HP EX950 2TB for my main drive. space marine todd fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Sep 7, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 01:02
|
|
|
space marine todd posted:Recommendations for a cheap 2TB NVME drive? I just need it for storage. The Intel 660p is both cheap and 2tb.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
Any chance that fucker will hit $150 black friday?
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 04:19
|
|
|
Definitely the 660p, it's still the absolute cheapest 2 TB SSD in m.2 at around $180, only tied with 2.5" SATA drives like the SU800.Seamonster posted:Any chance that fucker will hit $150 black friday? It's quite possible considering how low it regularly is now. Unless you absolutely need one at the moment you might as well wait!
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 08:59
|
|
|
What would be a faster ~500 GB NVMe SSD to install Windows on for pairing with a 660p? Doesn't need to be the highest-end, just reasonable. I'm interested in using the 660p 2 TB as a dedicated game drive in conjunction.
Lambert fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Sep 7, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 10:27
|
|
|
Lambert posted:What would be a faster ~500 GB NVMe SSD to install Windows on for pairing with a 660p? Doesn't need to be the highest-end, just reasonable. I'm interested in using the 660p 2 TB as a dedicated game drive in conjunction. OS and video games aren't going to distinguish between speeds of different nvme drives so it's not really worth concentrating on faster. (The 660p is equally fast as long as it's in cache, but I agree with your setup keeping the 660p away from the heaviest write load.) The HP EX920 is pretty cheap at 500gb right now, just $65 at newegg. A few people itt have gone with adata XPG drives from rakuten and haven't had bad results. The crucial P1 is the other QLC drive so that's the only one to avoid in your case.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 15:03
|
|
|
The HP EX920 sounds great, I'll get that one. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2019 16:10
|
|
|
Actuarial Fables posted:The Intel 660p is both cheap and 2tb. Does the same hold for lower sized? I just need it for games.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 12:35
|
|
|
refleks posted:Does the same hold for lower sized? I just need it for games. I use the 1 TB as my games drive... it's fine. If the drive is close to full it will supposedly start slowing down because it runs out of fast buffer cache. But even if it did slow down it would still be faster than needed for loading games.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 14:05
|
|
|
At 1tb the 660p is a few dollars cheaper than TLC drives, but also has less SLC cache to use. At 512gb it's the same price as TLC drives and shouldn't be considered. SATA 1tb drives can be found for less than the 1tb 660p if you're really looking to pinch pennies.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 14:11
|
|
|
Only the 2TB 660p is worth considering at non-discount prices, the smaller versions all aren't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 14:26
|
|
|
Thanks - I just saw the 1TB selling for 100£ and was wondering if it was worth it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 17:49
|
|
|
refleks posted:Does the same hold for lower sized? I just need it for games. Yeah, to reiterate, the 2 TB version is worth buying simply because it, and maybe the SU800 (a 2.5" SATA drive) are the cheapest at that capacity; below that there are many options well under $100/TB. Otherwise the drive is fine (like most SSDs nowadays.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2019 06:51
|
|
|
I’m thinking about getting an SSD for my 2012 MacBook Pro. Would it be worth going with the MX over the BX drives from Crucial? I have quite a few GBs free on a 320 HDD, would 500 still be worth it? Any real cheap options I wouldn’t hate?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 04:42
|
|
|
nitsuga posted:I’m thinking about getting an SSD for my 2012 MacBook Pro. Would it be worth going with the MX over the BX drives Are we just talking about 2.5" drives here (and not that weird pseudo-m.2 Apple form-factor? I'm not familiar with Macs.) If so, you'd be happy with pretty much any recent SSD; SATA drives have basically hit their limit, and not only are they all mostly "fine," the age of that system would both: make it benefit from any SSD upgrade, and probably not be worth spending the money on the "best" (read: highest-priced) SATA SSD, which is basically the MX500 or the Samsung 860 Evo or whatever their current drive is. That being said, there's nothing wrong with just throwing an MX500 or whatever in there and being done with it. I'd totally go with a ~500 GB one, because you'll hate if you fill up a 256 GB and have to upgrade again. Also note that when you say "MX vs. BX," there have been quite a few Crucial SSD lines with those prefixes over the years, and they're not all comparable; the MX500 is a solid 3D TLC drive but the BX500 is a much cheaper QLC SSD, intended more for bulk storage than OS use (due to performance and endurance.) And then their older MX300, BX300, etc., drives are different in terms of controller and NAND flash, and so on. In any case, at the ~500 GB capacity, you're looking to spend only around $50 (the 860 Evo is overpriced at $80, at least on Amazon.) The WD Blue or Sandisk Ultra (same drive) would be fine (check Newegg, eBay, etc.) or the Adata SU800 on Rakuten should definitely be on sale with the ~monthly Adata sales.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 06:29
|
|
|
A 2012 CPU (I have 2013 Pro) is going to bottle neck the SSD. Get whatever that is reliable and $ per GB.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 07:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 20:33 |
|
|
Thanks for the tips! It is a 2.5" SATA drive I'm looking to replace. I think I'll dig around for a deal on the ADATA, WD, or Sandisk. If nothing comes up in the next week or two, I can always spring for the MX500. It does seem worth it to spring for a better drive in this case, because I can always use the drive as a backup/rescue drive should the MacBook die.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 14:16
|
|